50$ goes to whoever can solve this problem with MPFI

[Autocratic_1st_Gen]

It is the injectors not the manifold. You can run OBD0 injectors on an OBD1 mani and you still need the resistor box. If you run OBD1 injectors on an OBD0 mani you don't need the resistor box.

Low Impedance injectors (OBD0 Honda's) need the resistor box.
High Impedance injectors (OBD1+ Honda's) do not need the resistor box.

-Dustin

[maddogsback]

my guess is that you damaged teh alternator in swapping ther engine. i damaged mine when i change the head gasket and some other things. i just went to a junk yard and goy a used alternator for 75 bucks and it worked fine. that would be why you don't have spark sometimes and it could also be the fact that you dont haver the alternator set properly. just a thought that could work. hope it works out for you.

[vesper]

why would you go to a junk yard and pay 75 bucks for a use alternator?

anyways i will be running a obd1 manifold with obd1 injectors. so there no resistor box. final.

[bambam89lx]

Ok guys....here's a little update....my car's still not running.
I got some "expert" on 4th gen's coming over tomorrow night. He "guarantees" he can fix my car for $100 in less than 2 hrs. He owns a crx with an ls engine, full integra brake conversion at all four corners, and a junkyard turbo setup which he did all of this himself. He's supposed to be good with crx/civic swaps...he's even putting Masta's (Ray's) D16Y8 in for him sometime this week. He said if he doesn't get it fixed, he won't charge me anything either. So, I'm hoping that he'll get it fixed.

Here's my problems:
My car still has a code 20.
My battery light still stays on.
My battery wouldn't charge even when boosted to another vehicle.
I went out and bought an oversized 800 amp battery that was $80. I shoulda just bought the optima for 140 but ohhh well. Anyways, here's my thoughts: I think it may have something to do with the injectors like they may be stuck open or they may be "fried"...is that possible?

My resistor box is fine...I checked it...the resistance is 5.9 which is fine because it is a 6 ohm resistor.
My battery light stays on when I turn the car over and im guessing it's the alternator but I don't know how that could've went bad because it was fine b4 I put it in the car and it was fine in the car. All of a sudden the battery light came on when I was trying to turn it over and it hasn't gone off since. Also the battery doesn't charge when the car is boosted to another vehicle...the battery continues to stay dead.

I have one more question. I went to the junkyard to get an extra plug for the 4 extra wires....the 2 injector wires and the 2 distributor wires. I put the injector wires and the dizzy wires on the same connector and I also didn't shield the distributor wires like most people said I shouldv'e. So....is it possible that by not shielding the dizzy wires....that could give me a code 20 or possibly mess up my injectors or cause my car not to start?

[vxturbo]

YES it can matter. i had my ZC wires from the distributor backwards and unshielded and i was throwing all kinds of codes from cam sensor to ecu. You should shield them. If thats not the problem its stil a good idea.

[Autocratic_1st_Gen]

Yeah, you ran low voltage sensative signal wires (and they're square wave signals ) next to higher voltage pulsed wires, that is going to cause problems.

[InEdAb20vtech]

I'll try my hand at this mistery $50 problem. No checks please.

Code 20 is probably just that the inside wire on the 3 pin connector located in the engine compartment fuse box has a crack or is loosely connected. Mine had the side of the connector pop off and it would only allow me to turn it over for about a half of a second before it would pop a light and the injectors would shut off.

The resistor box is not dependant of the intake. It depends on the injectors being used. OBD1 injectors do not use it but OBD0 injectors do. OBD0 used point and hold injectors and OBD1 used saturation type injectors.

If you know that the alternator is bad then replace it before you burn a cell in the battery trying to jump and already charged battery. If the battery is not currently holding a carge in a known good vehicle then scrap it too. It's one less headache for later.

I hope that this helps a little. Hit me up and let me know how it goes.

[TheSilentChamber]

you know I'm willing to bet .. oh lets say $50, that he got it running ABOUT A YEAR AGO!

[4-Door Flunky]

Three things you gotta have for it to run: properly-timed spark, fuel, and compression.
You've got spark, you've got fuel. That leaves compression (and the possibility that the timing isn't right...improperly installed timing belt?).
Good luck.
Flunky

[icE_x]

rofl, lots of ppl bring up old threads to keep em kickin

give me money first than i'll tell you the meaning of life

[InEdAb20vtech]

Thanks ice, I love the hub caps