Nitrous ... why so dangerous

[Guyanson_Mendiola]

i've heard that with using Nitrous Oxide you can damage your motor and possibly blow your block.

[whtteg]

Originally Posted by got v-tec?

So then it's not dangerous to redline w/ nitrous? cuz ive heard its dangerous too, expecially with a engine that redlines high like a type-R? and also is it more harsh on your engine to use nitrous in 1st gear than the rest?

The reason it is dangerous to redline while using nitrousa is b/c of the rev limiter. The rev limiter cuts the fuel and then you are left with a lean condition, which can and probably will result in a blown motor. And as far as using it in first gear, it is safe but you really have to know what you are doing b/c wheel spin is massive and you can hit the rev limiter before you know it. That is why I have a ecu that is chipped to have no redline ( well 8400, but not going to see that lol). Now ignition timming is something that has to be addressed. Retarding the timming is a simple way of saving the motor from detonation or preignition. For 50 hp and less stock timming or 1 degree retard 50-75 1-2 degress retard and over that you should know what to do or you don't need to be using a shot that big !

[VeNomGSR]

i have a del sol ...with a b18c in it..(jdm GSR)...with AEM intake, MSD wires, Skunk2 intake mani, Type R throttle, DC 4-2-1 header, AEM fuel rail...

Would it be safe for me to run a 55 shot....and what would be better for hondas....wet or dry..ive heard bad things about wet...then people say im dumb and say wet is better...so i dunno what to think...

[got v-tec?]

Originally Posted by whtteg

The reason it is dangerous to redline while using nitrousa is b/c of the rev limiter. The rev limiter cuts the fuel and then you are left with a lean condition, which can and probably will result in a blown motor. And as far as using it in first gear, it is safe but you really have to know what you are doing b/c wheel spin is massive and you can hit the rev limiter before you know it. That is why I have a ecu that is chipped to have no redline ( well 8400, but not going to see that lol). Now ignition timming is something that has to be addressed. Retarding the timming is a simple way of saving the motor from detonation or preignition. For 50 hp and less stock timming or 1 degree retard 50-75 1-2 degress retard and over that you should know what to do or you don't need to be using a shot that big !

my ecu is chipped to go to 8400 too. So as long as i shift at 8200 i'll be fine?

[Redrunner]

Originally Posted by VeNomGSR

i have a del sol ...with a b18c in it..(jdm GSR)...with AEM intake, MSD wires, Skunk2 intake mani, Type R throttle, DC 4-2-1 header, AEM fuel rail...

Would it be safe for me to run a 55 shot....and what would be better for hondas....wet or dry..ive heard bad things about wet...then people say im dumb and say wet is better...so i dunno what to think...

I run a 55 shot on my stock d16y7 with CAI and thats it so I am going to tell you yes it is safe plus you got more diplacment then me 55 shot will be easy to run on your car. and you will love then way it feels. People that have been beating me by 4 -6 cars cant beat me now so I love the stuff

Also mine is Wet I like Wet alot better.I think it is safer because I have not fucked up anything yet and I know 2 people that have had zex dry kit and have blown there shit. I have had no problems

[boosted331]

Originally Posted by got v-tec?

my ecu is chipped to go to 8400 too. So as long as i shift at 8200 i'll be fine?

As long as you don't bounce off the rev limiter, and have the system properly tuned and installed you shouldn't damage anything. My best advice is buy a window switch, get it on the dyno, figure out a good shift point (probably going to be a bit below 8000) and then set the window switch to shut off the nitrous a few hundred RPM's past your shift point, and a few hundred before redline. Run a WOT switch in conjunction with the window switch, and the lowest RPM's that I would have it spray at would be 3000, anything less than that and you don't have that much port velocity which can lead to puddling and a big backfire.

[SiGNAL748]

i heard n2o would freeze your fuel lines if not set up correctly?

[Redrunner]

Originally Posted by SiGNAL748

i heard n2o would freeze your fuel lines if not set up correctly?

LOL Thats Funny. After thinking about it if you have a I/Q of -5 I sure you could do that

[got v-tec?]

Originally Posted by Redrunner

Also my is Wet I like Wet alot better. And I will it is safer because I have not fucked up anything yet and I know 2 people that have had zex dry kit and have blown there shit. I have had no problems

ive heard zex is the safest nitrous there is cuz of the smart system.

[Guyanson_Mendiola]

does Neuspeed make Nitrous Oxide bottles?

[Redrunner]

Originally Posted by got v-tec?

ive heard zex is the safest nitrous there is cuz of the smart system.

True just bc they have that damn think that cuts it on at a rpm and cuts off at a rpm. dry makes your stock fuel pump do the work.

[Zonathin]

This may be a dumb question, but sorry. uh, if internals are built up and whatnot, can you use turbo as well as nitrous?

[Ricochet]

Originally Posted by got v-tec?
ive heard zex is the safest nitrous there is cuz of the smart system.

Originally Posted by Redrunner
True just bc they have that damn think that cuts it on at a rpm and cuts off at a rpm. dry makes your stock fuel pump do the work.

WTF are you talking about??? That's what a window switch does, which doesn't come with a zex kit.

The wet kit is safer because it mixes nitrous with extra fuel, and shoots that mixture into the chamber with the regular amount of fuel already provided by the injectors.

A dry kit only sprays nitrous into the chamber, but increases the amount of fuel the stock system injects when you spray by lowering the ecu's view of the fuel psi.

The zex "smart system" tells the car's ecu how much fuel to inject depending on the psi of nitrous spraying into the engine, so the engine will run fully cooperatively with the amount of nitrous entering the engine even if you only have 500psi in the bottle. On a NOS or any other dry system, it just bumps the fuel and sprays whatever psi the bottle has, making a somewhat ineffecient mixture. The Venom and NX wet kits are by far the best systems to install because they have their own little brainboxes and displays which monitor the fuel/nitrous ratio at all times, but are relatively expensive ($1000+ new, compared to $500 for a zex kit). Dry kits are only recomended to spray up to 75hp shots, while with wet kits you can run 150-175hp because of the higher efficiency in nitrous/fuel mixture. You MUST upgrade damn near everything for shots in excess of 75hp though. Hope this helps.

[integra818]

You also have to be sure the bottle is at the right temp. My brothers NOS bottle was below 700PSI (or whatever the ideal PSI is) and instead of it bieng 50 shot, which is what it was jetted for, it was more like 35-40 shot...because of the low bottle pressure.
If my bro payed closer attention to his spark plugs, he would've messed up his rings and valves . Lesson learned I guess.
For nitrous, I think you alos need plugs that are one step colder, and I heard NGK is the best, not sure tough. My bro used bosch the first time and metled one of the plugs. It felt like a carbuerated car with a flooded carb!

[Ricochet]

NGK BKR7E's are the best plugs to use on a Civic, which are 2 steps colder. These plugs are perfectly fine for everyday driving w/out nitrous also. The temp directly affects the psi, which the ZEX brainbox takes into account and raises/lowers fuel accordingly like I said above. If it's at 500psi, the box will tell the engine to only add a little bit more fuel. If at 1200psi it will tell the engine to add a lot of fuel. There is a hose going from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator, and with the ZEX setup the hose comes off the fpr straight to the box, then is outletted to the manifold. The box is able to manipulate the fuel psi seen by the ecu this way. When you spray it will say "hey ecu, we need more gas in here", and all the ecu sees is "you're right, here you go buddy", making an efficient mix so it doesn't lean out and burn up your shit inside. More fuel = cooler burn, more air = hotter burn.