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  #1  
Old 12-16-2003, 09:06 PM
smokindog smokindog is offline
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faulty ground or alternator

I had a problem with 94 shutting down completely. I could get it to power up by either disconnecting and reconnecting the battery or sometimes by just turning on the headlights. I took it to the dealer and they said that it was a corroded connecting block. Now where would that be? It worked fine untill recently, now I'm getting a low voltage reading on my gauge and have noticed that the lights on the dash and especially the radio are continually pulsing. Is there some easy way to know if it is a faulty ground or an alternator going bad.
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Old 12-19-2003, 09:40 AM
RABarrett RABarrett is offline
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Re: faulty ground or alternator

Like any other problem, it requires troubleshooting. Since the voltmeter is showing low voltages, start with the battery. Check the battery voltage with the engine off. Is it above 12.4 volts? If not, charge the battery. Does it take a charge, shown by the charger's ammeter showing a current? If not, the battery is defective. If not, check the connections, and, if necessary, replace the battery. Is the charging voltage with the engine running, (and the battery installed) above 13.0 volts? If not, the charging system needs attention. If so, then there are other problems elsewhere in the system. Let's start there. Answer the posed questions either on the forum or on my private message base. I'll get back to you. Ray
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Old 12-20-2003, 07:54 PM
smokindog smokindog is offline
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Re: Re: faulty ground or alternator

Quote:
Originally Posted by RABarrett
Like any other problem, it requires troubleshooting. Since the voltmeter is showing low voltages, start with the battery. Check the battery voltage with the engine off. Is it above 12.4 volts? If not, charge the battery. Does it take a charge, shown by the charger's ammeter showing a current? If not, the battery is defective. If not, check the connections, and, if necessary, replace the battery. Is the charging voltage with the engine running, (and the battery installed) above 13.0 volts? If not, the charging system needs attention. If so, then there are other problems elsewhere in the system. Let's start there. Answer the posed questions either on the forum or on my private message base. I'll get back to you. Ray
it's at 12.4 exactly and It's up above 13 volts on the voltmeter on the dash. it appears to be a drain when I use the turn signals or some other electrical device.
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Old 12-21-2003, 08:03 AM
rrichard7 rrichard7 is offline
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No help but interested in this post. My '94 has dark radio and heater controls. The dash voltmeter seems normal except when I use the turn signals. When I use the turn signals, the meter will behave like a metronome (wagging from ~15 to <13). No other accessory seems to have that effect. Everything works (except RKE only occasionally). My battery is 50 months but seems OK. I'll perform the above voltages checks to see where I fall.

Ray R
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Old 12-21-2003, 08:59 AM
smokindog smokindog is offline
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Re: faulty ground or alternator

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Originally Posted by rrichard7
No help but interested in this post. My '94 has dark radio and heater controls. The dash voltmeter seems normal except when I use the turn signals. When I use the turn signals, the meter will behave like a metronome (wagging from ~15 to <13). No other accessory seems to have that effect. Everything works (except RKE only occasionally). My battery is 50 months but seems OK. I'll perform the above voltages checks to see where I fall.

Ray R


Hi Ray: I have that same problem too. I eliminated the battery because the voltage checks out and is only a year old. I have to believe that there is either a faulty ground or the charging system isn't doing it's job.

If anyone has ideas I would appreciate the input.
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Old 12-21-2003, 10:28 AM
rrichard7 rrichard7 is offline
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My battery voltage is ~13 with engine off and 15+ with the engine on at the battery terminals (I don't have the best test meter). When I use the turn signals, engine on, the battery stays steady at 15 at the terminals. The meter on the dash wags. I didn't think to run the turn signals with the engine off. The car has been idle for 5 days (primary operator has the flu, avoid this flu at all costs). Anyway, the RKE opened the door when I first went out but would not lock it when I was done. The dash meter read higher, > half way to max, than usual during these measurements.

Another occasional event is when moving the shifter (column) from Park to Drive, the interior lights will come briefly. When the shifter is put in drive, the doors lock automatically by design. I wonder if there could be a connection between the locks, lights, signals, RKE..... I'm getting crazy, now.

Good Luck and I'll be keep following this one.
Ray R
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