Le Mans Contest Entry: 1999 Toyota GT-One

[willimo]

This is going to be great! (Holds tightly to chair so he won't fall out during the ride.) These are the kind of buildups that make full-view kits worth their salt. This thread will be watched closely.

[GT-Alex]

I'm progressing slowly but i'm quite pleased with the outcome. Exhaust lines have been painted and weathered using alclad and clear acrilics. Turbo temp. wires have been added too, just need to paint the "denso" markings on intercoolers.

[IMG][/IMG]

I'm actually working on the drive shafts (if it's the coorect word) and brakes air ducts. I cutted the shafts from the air ducts and replaced them with metal rods. I made that to be able to apply the CF decals (CF again ) on the ducts.

[IMG][/IMG]

I'm still wondering how to make the brakes. In the ref. pics I have the car have steel discs but maybe the Le Mans one had carbon ones.

Comments or suggestions welcome as usual.

[bvia]

Originally Posted by GT-Alex

I'm still wondering how to make the brakes. In the ref. pics I have the car have steel discs but maybe the Le Mans one had carbon ones.

Comments or suggestions welcome as usual.

Alex,
that is correct. The Toyota GT One had carbon fiber brake discs for every race it was entered in (which of course was only Le Mans and only for 2 years..;-)>...) The dead giveaway is the 3 pill-shaped slots in the disc used to determine the wear rate.

hth,
Bill

p.s. Modller's Eye website has a VERY detailed photoshoot of this car. PM me if you want the pics or the url

[p9o1r1sche]

Good looking buildup. I see you have the yellow Kevlar on the inner rear fenders. Is this what the real car had there? or did it have black inner fenders?
How do you intend to deal with the ejector pin marks on the body? This will be a clear-view build, right?

Good luck with this build. Want to see more.

[GT-Alex]

The rear inner fenders were yellow on the real car (at least on pics i have).

The ejector pin marks will involve sanding paper and compound. I counted only 20 marks... but i must finish the engine and frame first. This will be a long progress i think.

[bigfrit]

wow, missed this thread up untill now!

Superb attention to detail, a great subject and a great modeler, think all the ingredients for a masterpiece are there, no?

Bye

Olivier

[bvia]

The Tamiya website used to have a tutorial on how to remove the ejector pin marks from the "clearview" series (IIRC it was demonstrated on the Porsche GT1).


Basically it was simply using a polishing kit to remove the marks.

hth,
Bill

[GT-Alex]

Thank you all for the kind comments. Here's a little update.

Got more cf done (i really need a better cam!):
[IMG][/IMG]

Driver's cell ready for cf too:
[IMG][/IMG]

Trying to replicate the front brakes air ducts. Basic shape made of styrene tube sections and sheets (still a lot of work on those tiny pieces !):
[IMG][/IMG]

Comments and suggestions blablabla...

[GT-Alex]

As nobody seems interested in this project, i have space to put many pics, so i'll try to explain how to make realistic wheel hubs using PE parts from SMS:
-first remove the hub screws from the original part, leaving only 2 or 3 of them to center the ring correctly (i removed them because i couldn't place the ring with all of them in place)
[IMG][/IMG]

-then putty the space between the inner ring and the hub itself (the real hub is one piece)
[IMG][/IMG]

-after 1/2 hour of sanding it should look ok. I drilled all the screws holes to put other ones after it's painted. It's a long process but i bet it will look fine at the end. Here is what it look after a coat of primer handbrushed to see the errors.
[IMG][/IMG]

PS: i'm looking at some sakatsu parts for the screw, but i don't know how many of them are in a set. I need 48 of them, so if someone ever used them and can answer it will be usefull for me. Here is the link to what i'm talking about.

[RallyRaider]

Hi Alex, that is a lot of work on the wheel hubs, will be very interested to see how they work out.
I don't understand what you need the screws for. Do you mean bolt heads around the edge of the hub? Numbers of Sakatsu bolts per package vary with different types, usualy only about ten per package. Another alternative for scale bolts and rivets is Galtran at www.galtran.com.

[BRM]

It's coming along nicely, great attention to detail.

[GT-Alex]

Brakes are done, exept the hub bolts and caliper decals. I kind of messed the drilling of the disc's edges but it's too hard to make it regulary. It's always better than nothing I also added small wires to the calipers for the fluid passage from one side to the other (if you understand what i say ).

[IMG][/IMG]

What do you think ?

[bvia]

What do _I_ think?

Where the heck is the updates?

Are you asleep at the workbench?

C'mon Alex! snap some more pics!

Bill

[GT-Alex]

Well i slowed a bit because i'm not in a mood for CF-ing the cokpit (so complex templates to make !). And i wait until all the carbon is applied to clearcoat it. The back of the seat is done but i can't take any usable pic for now. Just one of the dash board with all the switches made of thin metal wire.

[IMG][/IMG]

[pre98zetec]

Nice brake's man, Dash look's great too. Can't wait to see more progress!