94 Caprice sporadic starting problems. Mechanic can't figure it out. Need help!

[mereel]

I have a 1994 Chevy Caprice cop-model that has been having problems starting up for about a while. Every couple weeks or so, it will randomly not start. The engine turns over, but won't actually start up. Or it will start up for a couple seconds, and then die.

I took it into the mechanics last week, and they verifying that the fuel pump was getting electricity but was not running so they replaced it. Well, 2 days later the exact same thing happened. The car wouldn't start up (the battery is not dead) and the fuel pump didn't appear to be running. Earlier today I took it into the mechanics again (it started up finally), but they can't figure out whats wrong, nor do they have any possible idea what it could be.

Its driving me nuts, because the car will randomly work/not work. Which makes it pretty worthless and hard to troubleshoot. Any ideas? It would help a ton.

Thanks,
Colin

[Countilaw]

A shot in the dark! It sounds like the fuel pump relay is on the frits. Have someone turn the key to “on” while you listen under the hood. Make sure everything is off, like vent, a/c or anything that makes noise. Listen for the relay to click and the fuel pump should start to hum, it will hum for only a short time. If you don’t hear the click, try again by turning the key off, then back on. Good Luck!!

[mereel]

Thanks, I'll try that out. I tried listening to make sure the fuel pump was turning on, but I couldn't really make it out myself. I'll have one of my buddies help, and we'll check out the replay too.

[99ssconv]

check the fuse block at the passenger rear side of the engine compartment for a melted positive post terminal, if its melted or black from excessive resistance then you will have to replace the stud and nut and 2 terminals.

[99ssconv]

Under Certain Conditions, The Battery Cable Connection At The Underhood Electrical Center Stud May Overheat. This May Cause Melting Of The Battery Cable Plastic Cover, The Plastic Stud Housing, And/or The Stud Itself, Resulting In Intermittent Loss Of Vehicle Power. This Condition Is More Likely To Occur If Extra Electrical Loads Have Been Added To The Vehicle.

Correction:

1. Disconnect Negative Battery Cable From Battery.

2. Remove "aux Batt Pos" Cover From Electrical Center Stud. The Electrical Center And Stud Are Located On The Top Of The Right Hand Wheelhouse, Just Ahead Of The Front Of Dash. See Figure 1.

3. Remove The Stud Nut (not To Be Reinstalled) And The Positive Battery Cable From The Stud (figure 1).

4. Remove The Two Nuts Holding The Electrical Center To The Wheelhouse.

5. Remove The Top Cover From The Electrical Center.

6. Remove The Electrical Center From The Plastic Bracket. Use A Small Screwdriver To Release The Retaining Tabs (figure 2).

7. Remove The Small Shorting Prevention Cover From The Lower Portion Of The Stud Assembly (figure 3).

8. Remove The Bolt Securing The Ring Terminals To The Bottom Portion Of The Stud (figure 2).

9. Remove The 4 Large Maxi-fuses.

10. Remove The Terminal Position Assurance (tpa) Closest To The Stud (figure 4).

11. Use A Small Flat Blade Screwdriver To Release The Four Terminals Securing The Two Busbars In The Electrical Center (figure 5). Pull The Busbars Out The Bottom.

12. Release The Retaining Tab, Then Slide The Stud Assembly From The Electrical Center (figure 6).

13. Install A New Stud Assembly, P/n 12161130, To The Electrical Center.

14. Reinstall The Busbars. Make Certain That The Busbars Are Not Damaged, And Click Them Firmly Into Place. If The Busbars Are Damaged, Replacement Parts Are Available, P/n's 12129481 And 12146182.

15. Reinstall The Tpa.

16. Reinstall The Maxi-fuses. Refer To The Inside Of The Cover For Correct Positions.

17. Route Wires Horizontally Toward Front Of Dash (at A 45 Degree Angle Away From The Electrical Center). Secure Ring Terminals To The Lower Stud Assembly. Torque Nut To 8 N.m (70 Lb.in).

18. Reinstall The Shorting Prevention Cover Over The Bottom Of The Stud Assembly.

19. Reassemble The Electrical Center Into The Plastic Bracket.

20. Reinstall The Top Cover.

21. Reinstall The Bracket To The Fender Skirt. Tighten The Nuts To 6.0 N.m (50 Ft.in.).

22. Reconnect The Positive Battery Cable To The Stud, Using A New Nut, P/n 11516161. Torque To 14 N.m (10 Lb.ft.).

23. Reinstall The "aux Batt Pos" Cover To The Stud. If The Cap Was Damaged, The Replacement Part Number Is 12146183.

24. Reconnect The Negative Battery Cable.

Parts List

12161130 Stud Assembly 11516161 Nut, Stud Assembly 12146183 Cover, Electrical Center Stud 12129481 Busbar, Cavity L1 And L3 12146182 Busbar, Cavity L2 And L4

Note: The Cover And Busbars Will Be Replaced As Needed, And Will Probably Not Be Required In Most Vehicles.

[mereel]

Interesting. I did add a pretty big stereo (800 watt amp, 2 13" subs, and 16x9s in the back). Could that cause enough additional electrical load to cause problems?

[jerry96lt1]

Same deal with my 96 had it to 2 places ton of money for nothing mine seems to be related to the brakepedal being pressed and the gas gauge goes to full when its messing up. It has cursed the car and im about to sell and buy a crown vic...

[silicon212]

Wow you dug up a 2+ year old thread!

[smokinhydes1]

Three words....wow, old thread. Three more...grounds, grounds, grounds

[tribal terror]

3 more words- grounds,grounds,connections.Pulling up old threads is good as someone new might have the same conditions and will be able to find it.By the way, how far back do the threads go????????