Part 7: I can't hear you! (stereo)

[Rice-Rocketeer]

Here's the rundown so far:
$20,000 to start

1997 EX Coupe $4350
Title transfer and other expenses $150
CR-VTEC complete swap $4000
DRAG Turbo $3500
koni yellows $550
gc coilovers $290
rear si sway bar $40
rear disk brake conversion $250
kosei k1 $525
kuhmo 712's $308
powerslot cross drilled and slotted rotors $160
pads $90
Tsunami Front lip- $355.95
Buddy Club Rear bumper ($230) and side skirts (460)
paint- extra $300?
Si gauge cluster- $150
indiglo insert-$80
2 black corbeaus for the front ($400 each) and black GSR for back ($400)
2 Sabelt 4 point harnesses- total of $200
Momo Competition steering wheel- $170
DC sports short shift- $100
Home made clear/smoked corner/gunmetal housing headlight $10
red-clear tails-$150
aluminum sparco pedals- $35

we have $2,333 and 1 spending stage left.

This is your audio/visual stage. My only request is that you keep it reasonable. No 4 15" Rockford setup please. AND HERE WE GO....

[sparq]

Ohhhhh simple...

Lanzar 7" Motorized flip out LCD screen
Lanzar indash DVD player
Rainbow component in the front
pair of Arc Audio 12" subwoofers sitting in a fiberglass spare tire box
Arc Audio amps for front and woofers

Cost: $2,333 hookup by sparq

[92 Teg-B18A]

This is gonna be one tuff category for evryone to come together on. Everyone has their different brand preferences/alliances. So this is why I suggest going with this format and then polling on which brands to go with

Head unit: take your pick
front stage: medium - high end components
rear stage: medium -high end two or three ways
subs: two 10's running off of their own sub amp
*and some dynamat or other type of sound insulation
*the front and rear stage of course being amp powered

I think this will give us the sound that we want, with some money left over for anything else we need

[92 Teg-B18A]

I know, I know ICE is the thing to have right now but so were altezzas and they got played out fast (sorry to those who like or have em). Everybody's getting ICE and shorting themselves on sound quality. Ditch the ICE and go for a quality thumping system!

[sparq]

Originally posted by 92 Teg-B18A
I know, I know ICE is the thing to have right now but so were altezzas and they got played out fast (sorry to those who like or have em). Everybody's getting ICE and shorting themselves on sound quality. Ditch the ICE and go for a quality thumping system!

See my above recomendation... :finger:

[igo4bmx]

ALpine IVA 800 - 1000
fronts - crystal comps -159
no rears
two alpine 12 incher dvc subs -240 total
dual 12 1 cubic foot box - 60 bucks
lanzar 1200D mono block amp -225
1 farad lightning digital cap - 80
alpine mrv-f340 - 250
2 sets of nice rca-s 50
speaker wire (12 g, 16 g) -30
hook up wires - 30
install materials - 50


2124 and you can use the left for gas hahahaha

[Rice-Rocketeer]

Ok yeah, this might get us no where fast. Let's try this, let's all agree on each piece. Let's agree on the headunit first, then the speakers, amps next, etc.

Let's try that instead of everyone putting up a different combo of components, K?

[ric]

4 rockford 15's

[igo4bmx]

How about alpine IVA-800 in dash 6.4 lcd monitor? built in cd player 3 RCA outs at 4 volts each. nice sq and good menu interface (i've seen crappy in dash interfaces which make it look like poo) and you can get them for about 1000 bucks.

[Si2000 Vtec]

Man, I haven't followed car audio stuff for a long time! Once upon a time, I knew it all... then I got a car =)

Well, from what I remember, Clarion and Sony were the only two manufacturers with a 20-Bit Bur-Brown D/A converter [head unit] for the best sound quality... I basically hate Sony's audio equipment so I'd go with the Clarion.

As for speakers, I'm very partial to Polk... I've spent about $1500 on polk speakers in my life [home and car], and from what i've compared them to, nothing beats them for the price. So i'd probably go with some Momo 6.5" seperates up front.

And if you ask many IASCA judges, they'll tell you that you don't need rear-fill, as it can throw off your sound stage [phaze differences/sound altitude]. I didn't have rear speakers in my Hatch, it sounded really nice.

Now for some bumps, I haven't heard anything clearer than the good ole' alumapro alchemy's. I'd throw a nice single 12" [again, not altering phaze differences] and fiberglass it in the spare-tire well.

As for power, xtant has my vote... I think a nice 604a should do the job [I think thats the model].

Hell, I don't blame you if you don't take my word for it, but I'm friends with a few IASCA judges, so I had the inside edge on what's hot for sound quality... but like I said, I'm totally out of the car audio scene now... this info is all like 2 years old =)

[Si2000 Vtec]

BTW>>

www.carmedia1.com

has some really good prices... I haven't been to the site in a long time, but they have hella good prices.

[94civic]

here is my list

2 12" brahma series subs $740 (doesn't need a big box and runs at 1600watts rms, 4800 peak-massive subs) only .65-1.25 cubic feet box needed. Check them out: http://www.acoustic-visions.com/brahma.htm
sealed box- $100
6.5" infinty components in the front $180
6.5" infinity two ways in the rear $70
Audiobahn A2200HC amplifier (1600 watts) $400
Lightning audio 1 farad cap $90
wiring $100
Panasonic CQ-DVR909U AM/FM/CD/DVD A/V Player $500
6" dash tv monitor $150

Total $2330

[Rice-Rocketeer]

Originally posted by i like naked girls
4 rockford 15's

:stormzap: :finger4: :toothless

[xivera]

Originally posted by sparq
Ohhhhh simple...

Lanzar 7" Motorized flip out LCD screen
Lanzar indash DVD player
Rainbow component in the front
pair of Arc Audio 12" subwoofers sitting in a fiberglass spare tire box
Arc Audio amps for front and woofers

Cost: $2,333 hookup by sparq

We don't need no stinking rear speakers!

[kicker1_solo]

Eclipse 5303R headunit
2 12" JL AUDIO W6s
MTX 2150x amp per sub
Kicker mids and tweets
MTX 2450x amp for components