1995 K1500 EC - Brake line

[tken35]

I want to replace a section of the brake line going to the rear from the ABS unit. It looks thicker than the regular brake line I have used in the past (but that could be due to the rust build up) and I am wondering if it 1/4" vs. 3/16"? Also, has anyone used the Poly-Armour brake line?

Thank you in advance!

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by tken35

I want to replace a section of the brake line going to the rear from the ABS unit. It looks thicker than the regular brake line I have used in the past (but that could be due to the rust build up) and I am wondering if it 1/4" vs. 3/16"? Also, has anyone used the Poly-Armour brake line?

Thank you in advance!

You are welcome.
3/16 or 1/4 is only your first problem.

Best to take it off at the fittings on each end of the section you want to replace and measure the line and measure line and match up what fittings on each end.
After finding your line sise.
They come in bubble flare and double flare and a lot of the lines will have 3/16 on one end and 1/4 metric on other end.
The buble flare takes a special flaring tool.
If so you may have to save old fitting and reflare your replacement line on one end for the odd sise on one end.
After removing old line take it to your local parts place and see if they can fix you up with a replacement line.
Also check all other brake and fuel lines.

The lines running beside the tank are a bear and problem area.
If you work there a new line can be feed threw the frame leaving old cut off line in place there.
Or.
In other words it is a remove and measure match up job.
And some times use one of your old fitting and reflare one end of line.

The newer poly armor line resists rust better than old type but will still rust out in years of road salt and moisture.

[tken35]

MT,

Great explanation! Would you happen to know if the "OTC Tools 4504 - OTC Stinger Bubble Flaring Tool Kits" would work if I run into a bubble flare? Or, is there another tool you might recommend?

Since I will have to eventually bleed the system, what is the best way to unfreeze the bleed screws on the back wheel cylinders and front calipers. I did put some penetrating oil on yesterday but I haven't had much in the past.

Thank you, again.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by tken35

MT,

Great explanation! Would you happen to know if the "OTC Tools 4504 - OTC Stinger Bubble Flaring Tool Kits" would work if I run into a bubble flare? Or, is there another tool you might recommend?

Since I will have to eventually bleed the system, what is the best way to unfreeze the bleed screws on the back wheel cylinders and front calipers. I did put some penetrating oil on yesterday but I haven't had much in the past.

Thank you, again.

OTC should do it.
Sometimes a little heat helps free them.
But Bleeder screws sometimes do twist off.
So twist with tender loving care.
If they do you always replace wheel cylinder.
And remember some ABS systems require a speical scanner to bleed ABS
system.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by tken35

MT,

Great explanation! Would you happen to know if the "OTC Tools 4504 - OTC Stinger Bubble Flaring Tool Kits" would work if I run into a bubble flare? Or, is there another tool you might recommend?

Since I will have to eventually bleed the system, what is the best way to unfreeze the bleed screws on the back wheel cylinders and front calipers. I did put some penetrating oil on yesterday but I haven't had much in the past.

Thank you, again.

to get the bleed screws to open/loosen using a small propane torch head heat up the blled screw till it glows red slightly... then with the LINE wrench setting in ice water ready for use place cold wrench on the bleed screw and gradually increase torque...the cold wrench will rapidly shrink the fitting screw then rotation to loosen will be possible..


before doing this giving the penitrating oil a few days to work is best...not all penitrating oil is equal.. WD-40 IS NOT PENITRATING OIL.

[jdmccright]

I had to replace the long section of brake line from the fitting just past the ABS unit to the rear hose not too long ago. The OEM does the run in two pieces, but I did it in one piece because the middle fitting was rusted.

As mentioned, it is best to remove it and bend to match but to do that removing the fuel tank is pretty much required since it is held in place by plastic clips. But it you can get a wrench in between the tank and rail then you have a chance.

For brake line, I used the more corrosion resistant (and more expensive!)cupro-nickel tubing, 1/4" O.D. I used a tubing bender for making the bends near the ABS and the rear hose. But if you're off by a little after using the bender, it is quite soft and easy to form so that you can gently bend it into place.

I don't recall having to make any bubble flares, but I did use brass dbl flare fittings. If there is a bubble flare, I used a double flaring tool where after forming the first flare I only went half way on the double flare step, making a bubble end. Being so soft, the Cu-Ni is easy to flare and form.

Once I formed the tubing, I fed it up into the frame from the rear because the rear end of it is shaped like a hook. The fittings worked perfectly and had no leaks the first try.

If all the brake fluid hasn't drained out yet from the ABS, make sure you cap it and fill the reservoir full so you don't have to bleed that. If it has, the best way is with a special tool to cycle the ABS unit. But, I did have success after all was put back together by causing the ABS to activate while stopping hard multiple times. Do this on an open road, ideally slightly wet to make ABS activation easier. You don't have to be going very fast, but make the ABS pump work for 5-10 seconds at a time...the longer the better.

Good luck!