Truck died on highway

[Prospector78]

I was wondering if someone could shed some light on this problem. I was driving down the highway around 60-65mph. My truck just stalled, the oil pressure and the tachometer dropped to 0 and I coasted to the shoulder in neutral. My truck won't start and I had it towed to my house. The engine cranks like it wants to start but just won't kick over. Any idea of what would cause this, or what I should check. I'm avoiding the thought of it being my timing belt. Hoping it's something stupid that I'm overlooking. Any ideas or thoughts on the subject?

[danielsatur]

Try to see if it's a fuel problem.
1) Spray some starting fluid in the throat of the throttle body.

If it's a fuel problem, check the fuel pressure, fuel pump fuse, and the fuel pump relay.

[Prospector78]

Originally Posted by danielsatur

Try to see if it's a fuel problem.
1) Spray some starting fluid in the throat of the throttle body.

If it's a fuel problem, check the fuel pressure, fuel pump fuse, and the fuel pump relay.

I just checked the entire fuel system and everything is ok. I even shot some starter fluid in the throttle body and it won't kick. All my wires and plugs look ok as well. I just replaced the ignition coil and map sensor last week with all the plugs and wires. It was running great for the last week.

[danielsatur]

How about crank, or cam sensors for timing?

[Prospector78]

Originally Posted by danielsatur

How about crank, or cam sensors for timing?

Gonna check those in the morning. I checked them a couple a weeks ago when i cleaned all the sensors. I'm gonna go through and recheck all of them. I turned the key on and now the ses light is on with a p0300 code.

[danielsatur]

P0300 - Random misfires on random cylinders.
Air - Air filter, MAF,IAT sensors, unmetered air leaks on air intake system.
Fuel - fuel filter, fuel pressure, or a bad electric fuel pump.
Ignition - Crank and cam sensors.
Exhaust - Plugged catalytic converters, or down stream exhaust.

[Prospector78]

Originally Posted by danielsatur

P0300 - Random misfires on random cylinders.
Air - Air filter, MAF,IAT sensors, unmetered air leaks on air intake system.
Fuel - fuel filter, fuel pressure, or a bad electric fuel pump.
Ignition - Crank and cam sensors.
Exhaust - Plugged catalytic converters, or down stream exhaust.

Holy crap, guess I'll check those tomorrow too. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know what I found.

[mike2004tct]

What year/model is the truck?

[Rick Norwood]

Yes, Thanks Mike, We need the Year, Make and Model. Depending upon the year, it could be the Distributor Module.

P0300 is a Random misfire code in the secondary ignition system, which consists of the Plugs, Wires, Coil, Distributor Cap, and Rotor.

In my humble opinion, most P0300 codes originate in the Distributor cap. Can you tell or do you know if the Distributor Cap is an AC-Delco?

Even if your Non AC-Delco Distributor cap is relatively new, off brand Distributor Caps simply won't hold up in these trucks. My AutoZone Duralast Cap and Rotor took a major dump after 6 months in my 2000 Jimmy. It did not stall completely, but it sure ran like two buckets of crap, and I had to replace it.

How long has it been since you did a tune up? If it has been awhile, and you think you need to replace your secondary ignition components, PLEASE do yourself a favor and use an AC-Delco Cap and Rotor.

[Prospector78]

Originally Posted by mike2004tct

What year/model is the truck?

The truck is 1997 s10 4x4 ext. cab with a 4.3l engine, 5 spd

[Prospector78]

Originally Posted by Rick Norwood

Yes, Thanks Mike, We need the Year, Make and Model. Depending upon the year, it could be the Distributor Module.

P0300 is a Random misfire code in the secondary ignition system, which consists of the Plugs, Wires, Coil, Distributor Cap, and Rotor.

In my humble opinion, most P0300 codes originate in the Distributor cap. Can you tell or do you know if the Distributor Cap is an AC-Delco?

Even if your Non AC-Delco Distributor cap is relatively new, off brand Distributor Caps simply won't hold up in these trucks. My AutoZone Duralast Cap and Rotor took a major dump after 6 months in my 2000 Jimmy. It did not stall completely, but it sure ran like two buckets of crap, and I had to replace it.

How long has it been since you did a tune up? If it has been awhile, and you think you need to replace your secondary ignition components, PLEASE do yourself a favor and use an AC-Delco Cap and Rotor.

It's an excel cap, rotor, wires, and the plugs are bosch +4's. I put them on about six months ago along with an ignition coil. The coil burned out and I just put a new one on last week. I'll have to try that. I usually always used excel products because of there track record in my trucks and my impala. This is the first s10 I ever had so the common things like ac delco products is new to me. I never had any of these problems with my full size trucks. the aftermarket parts were always fine and some the delco products are pricey. But if that's what works then so be it. Thanks for the heads up and advice. Greatly appreciated!

[blazee]

Are all the lights on the cluster coming on during the lamp test?

Is there an aftermarket alarm system or is the security light flashing?

Have you actually put a gauge on it to determine if the fuel pressure is above 60 psi?

[Prospector78]

Originally Posted by blazee

Are all the lights on the cluster coming on during the lamp test?

Is there an aftermarket alarm system or is the security light flashing?

Have you actually put a gauge on it to determine if the fuel pressure is above 60 psi?

There is no alarm on the truck. The lights did come on. all went out but the SES and I pulled the code. The fuel pressure is right were it's suppose to be according to my book. The book states around 56-60 psi.

[blazee]

Originally Posted by Prospector78

There is no alarm on the truck. The lights did come on. all went out but the SES and I pulled the code. The fuel pressure is right were it's suppose to be according to my book. The book states around 56-60 psi.

The reason I asked about the lights is that the 1997 model has had a lot of problems with the ignition switch. Some of the contacts fail to make a connection and cause a loss of power to certain systems. With an automatic, it is easier to tell, because the transmission circuit is usually the first to go. With a standard it is much harder, and one of the signs is that the cluster lights don't function correctly. Either they don't come on during the lamp test or they stay on all the time.

The fuel pressure spec in Haynes and Chilton manuals is incorrect. It is based on incorrect info that was released and then later corrected by GM... only they didn't seem to think it was important to update their books. With that said, 56-60 may give you hard starting in some situations, but it won't cause it to die. Below about 55 and they won't start on their own, and once it gets in the 40s they won't run at all.

[Rick Norwood]

Originally Posted by Prospector78

It's an excel cap, rotor, wires, and the plugs are bosch +4's.

O.K. I seem to recall an issue with the Bosch plugs a few years back. If memory serves, the tang (OR TANGS) on the plugs would break off. But in any case, I would check them for sure.

I don't know for sure about the coil, but I do know about the Cap. Again in my humble opinion, P0300 codes mostly originate in the cap. I learned my lesson the hard way from Old Master about the secondary ignition. Here's why. If you had an issue with one (or two) of the cylinders, you would in all probabilty throw a different code or multiple codes for those cylinders, and not necessarily a P0300 code.

You said you burnt out a coil and just replaced it, Was it the original AC-Delco Coil that you replaced? Can you tell if you have spark to the wires?

I am thinking you have a bad cap or coil. Don't be fooled by the age, something in your secondary ignition is brand new and not working.