windstar won't start - sometimes

This is a great site and I've turned to it often when I need help, but I have looked for a post with problems similar to mine and have found none.
I have a 2001 LX WINDSTAR and normally the van runs great, but sometimes it won't start, It could be just 5mins. after I shut it off or the next morning. It has gone several weeks without showing any signs of the problem. Things I've noticed when not starting: all lights on dash show as normal, when the key is moved to the run position and I can't hear the fuel pump run I know the engine will not turn over when the key is moved to the start position (can be heard in quite areas) When I do hear the fuel pump begin to run fully I know the car will start. Moving the gear level up and down does nothing. Sometimes I hear the fuel pump start to run but only for a sec. which when key is moved to the start position the engine will bump but not turn over. Sometimes I can try the key back and forth (off position and start position)a couple of times and car will start, other times I have to try for 30 to 45 mins. before it will start. I have not been stranded yet thank GOD. Could this be a key going bad,I only have one, a neutral safety switch, or maybe even the fuel pump circuit? Any help is always appreciated and thanks in advance.

I am not up on the 2001 year......and the security chip that is in some of those keys......how it works.

When you say it won't turn over.......I am taking this to mean that the starter does not even crank the engine......you turn the key and get nothing............if so.....it does move me toward the chip in the key......but I understand that those are expensive to replace.

Maybe someone who has some experience with the keys in the newer windstars (with the security chip) can help out here.....
Is the security chip needed in order to turn the key?
I guess one way to find out is to have a key made at the local hardware store (not expensive) and see if the symptom is the same.
The up side is that you will have a spare door key for your windstar.....just won't start the engine.

The other thing that could impact the starter and the fuel pump would be battery voltage......sometimes a battery can fail in a strange way.
If the battery voltage is even slightly low....it could prevent the fuel pump relay from pulling in......but I would STILL expect the starter to make some sound of trying to crank the engine....which is what leads me back to the key (or some other security device that may be on the vehicle).
A simple dirty connection should cause the interior lights to dim significantly when the key is moved to the START position.
Just a dirty connection for the starter should not impact the fuel pump before you move the key from the RUN to the START position.

i have 1994 windstar...will not start just click...click...click

I've seen this website offering windstar keys with chips in them. i believe you need both original keys to program it or something like that:

http://www.howardkeys.com/pdf/AutomotiveKeys/Ford.pdf

here are the instructions I saved from an earlier thread:

Here is the procedure for programming a new key if you already have 2 programmed keys:
1. Place first already programmed key in ignition and turn from off to on (run) for at least 1 second then switch to OFF.
2. Within 5 seconds, insert the second already programmed key into ignition and repeat first step.
3. Within 10 seconds, insert the new key and repeat step 1.
The theft indicator light should go on for 3 seconds, after which the new key should be programmed to strt the vehicle.

hope this helps.

how about tapping on fuel pump relay when this happens, or just replace it.

Same....... Same...... Same.......ditoooo.....problem with my ford windstar 1999 .
won't start sometimes. when it does that i cannot hear fuelpump noise at all with ignition key in on position. i can able to crank the engine. i swap fuel pump relay with horn relay both time horn did work, but NO LUCK for starting the engine. it did like that five or six times so far..One time on high way i stoped at rest area and after 15 minutes did't start, checked all fuses-shake wires -shacked all switches including gear shifter and o/d switch-but no luck..after waited for 20 minutes and starts all of sudden.. and doing after that every 15-20 days after...
Today my wife took it at job in morning, came out at evening won't start , she called me and i went there, i tried a lot but no luck even after 30-40 minutes try...
So, i will go tomorrow and see what happens.?????
Any help will be appriciated...AND yaa thanks in advance....

This is a very strange problem. My 2000 windstar SE has had this problem of not wanting to start after short trips and it seems to be on hot days.(southern ca.) Same deal, when trying to start after a drive the van will start but run as if it is starving for fuel. pressing the accelerator produces very little change in rpm. van stalls out after about20 seconds in this condition. Waiting about 20 mins and cranking engine again it fires right up and runs fine. This has happened a few times and I noticed the last two times the fuel level was under a quarter of a tank. Today the wife took the van nearly on empty to go spend money we don't have and the problem struck again. No time to wait for the van to fix itself I picked her up and figured I would pick it up later. Eight hours later I try to start the van and it cranks but no ignition. It was to loud to hear if the pump actually cycled or not. Towed van home and now it sits in the driveway. At least now I have a hard fault to troubleshoot instead of an intermittent one.

I am having the same problem as rhe8542 and qwerasdfptc with my 2002 Windstar. Is there anyone that can give me any info? Anything would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

I'm quite a "broken record" on this subject ... and have replaced more relays on my '99 than any six of you (perhaps). There is some "root cause" for the non-starting that I have not yet discovered ... whatever it is, the relays seem to take the brunt of it.

Occassionally I get the no-start problem ... I just fix the symptoms ... I take a new relay and swap out, one-by-one, three relays until the problem is temporarily resolved. ... PCM power relay, fuel pump relay, "no-start" relay ... (they are two different sizes IIRC). Each "event" costs me one new relay.

Hasn't failed me yet ... but it may not do a thing for you.

I tend to agree with 12ounce that this sounds like a classic relay situation. the question is which one and is it repairable without purchasing a new one? For civics, this has been well documented that the solder joints crack and stop functioning especially at high temps and/or fully warmed status. So take a look at the 3 relays and see if you can see cracked solder joints.

Thank you to everyone so far! I am desperate, so I am going to try all.

Sometimes I hear the fuel pump start to run but only for a sec. which when key is moved to the start position the engine will bump but not turn over.

On second thought, I think it's a bad ground connection. Cause you've trouble with the fuel pump AND the starting circuit which require a lot of power. But not with the dashboard light. Check if the wipers operate at high speed for 30sec. If it operates slowly, it'll confirm the diagnosis. Wash the windshield before.

..... Sometimes I hear the fuel pump start to run but only for a sec. which when key is moved to the start position ....

Actually it is normal for the pump to run, on its "own", only for a brief period when the key is moved to the "run" or "start/crank" position. I don't know the exact period, but it is brief ... a few seconds at most. Its a safety thing ... the idea is to get just enough fuel pressure to fire the engine a revolution or two ... then if the crank and cam are "sensed" to be moving, the pump is restarted ... as it is assumed the engine is now running.

Yes, that is normal. But it's not normal that sometime fuel pump don't run at all or engine doesn't crank completely.

Of course ... just didn't want anyone thinking: because the pump turns off in a few seconds ... that that is proof that the pump itself is THE problem.

I got it....I just took fuel tank out from bottom and inspecting fuel pump...then I checked connector inside the fuel pump that goes to fuel pump electric motor was bad...just got heated some how and melted negetive side wire a little bit...I soldered that connector with soldergun and reinstalled everything back....and now it's been five months no problem works fine....If someone doesn't know how to do it then easy is just replace the Fuel Pump Module Assembly that cost about $220.

Wow, that should be a very hard job.

That is a great find and fix ... kinda makes me nervous that that burning could be happening inside a tank!

I am taking my windstar to the mechanic today. Everything I have tried is not working. I have not tried the fuel pump connector, I am going to mention it to the mechanic. I will let you know what happens. Hopefully Qwerasdfptc's remedy cures my problem too! This is getting to be a real pain. Thanks again!

It sounds that the Windstar need fuel to crank, it's weird. Maybe if it doesn't detect fuel pressure, it doesn't crank. So maybe it's a also fuel pump/connection problem.

It sounds that the Windstar need fuel to crank, it's weird. Maybe if it doesn't detect fuel pressure, it doesn't crank. So maybe it's a also fuel pump/connection problem.

What would detect fuel pressure?

What would detect fuel pressure?

The fuel pressure regulator.

I am taking my windstar to the mechanic today. Everything I have tried is not working. I have not tried the fuel pump connector, I am going to mention it to the mechanic. I will let you know what happens. Hopefully Qwerasdfptc's remedy cures my problem too! This is getting to be a real pain. Thanks again!

What they do to correct your problem?

Hello everybody! It's been approx. a month since last post. The mechanic found that there was a short in the fuel pump. Replaced the pump with a new one and presto...... ( knock on wood ) starts everytime ! Now I have a new problem not related to the fuel pump. I will check the forums to find the new problem. Good luck to everyone else and hopefully this will help someone else. Oh by the way.....the mechanic only charged me $275.00 for his time and a new pump. I think he felt sorry for me..lol

First time poster... My 2002 windstar will not start all the time. It just started doing this about a month ago. Had it towed and mechanic said fuse was blown. put new fuse in and has worked fine until yesterday. Unable to hear fule pump prime. i turned key off and on 3 or 4 times and it starts. But as soon as i turn off, it won't start. Someone mentioned the battery could be at fault. When i tried to start this morning the battery was dead.. I jump started and it was fine. I wonder if failing battery could be the cause? Hate to spend 400.00 on pump just to find out my battery is the problem. Affraid to drive to parts store and turn off for a test in fear of it not starting.

1) Is it Air, fuel, ignition, or timing?
2) Throw some starting fluid in the Inake,


Symptoms of a bad MAF senor is a hard start.
Disconnect the MAF sensor, and put it in a default mode, the air is measure by the TPS, and RPM's.

1) Is it Air, fuel, ignition, or timing?
2) Throw some starting fluid in the Inake,


Symptoms of a bad MAF senor is a hard start.
Disconnect the MAF sensor, and put it in a default mode, the air is measure by the TPS, and RPM's.

The engine of Familyguy5 doesn't crank at all, so it's not the MAF.
But the trick is interesting.

Familyguy5, describe all your symptoms so you can be helped. We are not God to know what is your problem without knowing the other symptoms.

When it doesn't start, check battery voltage. If it's below 11.3V, it's the battery.

As is, in Dead , gone, or yesterday!
The starter solenoid isn't enabling the starter to do it's job?

Cancer can work up into the positive cable, even though it looks good, it can drop voltage, thus the battery isn't there.

As is, in Dead , gone, or yesterday!
The starter solenoid isn't enabling the starter to do it's job?

Maybe, but many other things can cause this problem: ignition switch, TRS, anti-theft relay, a short circuit somewhere.


Cancer can work up into the positive cable...

It's funny that you use the word cancer for that. It's not exactly like cancer even if look like. It's more a corrosion/reduction-oxidation reaction.

Profile, and whats the most probable cause!
2001/ 100k miles
battery, starter, starter solenoid, ignition switch, or cables.

90% of the time, it's just the battery or cables.

I have seen plenty of Bozo's replacing all, it was the cables.

I give the starting circuit schematic of 95-98 Windstar. 99-2003 should be similar.

http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/1151/startingschematic.jpg

First time poster... My 2002 windstar will not start all the time. It just started doing this about a month ago. Had it towed and mechanic said fuse was blown. put new fuse in and has worked fine until yesterday. Unable to hear fule pump prime. i turned key off and on 3 or 4 times and it starts. But as soon as i turn off, it won't start. Someone mentioned the battery could be at fault. When i tried to start this morning the battery was dead.. I jump started and it was fine. I wonder if failing battery could be the cause? Hate to spend 400.00 on pump just to find out my battery is the problem. Affraid to drive to parts store and turn off for a test in fear of it not starting.

Damn, I had the same problem 3 days ago. My engine turns off. I want to crank it, no crank. I thought it was the battery, cause I use it a lot. I check voltage on batt, 12V! I check voltage on battery connection, 4V?????

Connections were not rusty. But dirty at inside. I loose the connection, clean and rub the connectors, then tight the connection. After, I get 12V everywhere. I try to start engine, it cranks very fast, but didn't start. It was a mechanical failure... So check your connection, and everything else.

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/8899/batteryterminalafter.jpg

It's not my battery, just an example. This one was already tight.

My 02 windstar has been starting fine for almost a week. If I turn key on and don't hear fuel pump prime, I turn key back to lock position then try again until i hear it. Starts fine only when I hear pump.. Once last week when the pump was priming for that 2 or 3 seconds it made a louder than normal sound. Still started though. Also, if it starts and acts like it is running on fumes and is about to die, I can shut off and restart. It's like it had only enough fuel to start but not enough to actually run and drive. I feel like I am on borrowed time. I'm going to trust it to start and it's not going to happen. I really feel it's the pump on it's last leg...
Bit, it runs perfect once it starts. Just had a complete tune up including filter less than 4k miles ago. Guess i will bite the bullet and pay to have new pump installed.

relays.

Replacing a fuel pump is very expensive.

I suggest you to have the fuel pressure system tested. It could indicate if pump is bad or good.

As 12Ounce mentioned, check pump relay. Check also PCM relay. Cause this one controls the fuel pump.

My 2001 is doing the same thing. Funny, I just replaced the alternator today- It started and ran fine for a few minutes. I let the van sit for a few hours and now it's cranking over and not firing. I don't hear the pump priming and there's no pressure in the fuel lines. I'm going to check the relays. If the relays are OK, I'm going to have it towed to the shop.

Most possibles causes:

*defective fuel pump
*fuel pump relay or fuse
*PCM relay or fuse
*the PCM (very rare)
*short circuit in fuel pump circuit
*bad contact at inertia switch
*bad contact at fuel pump (you still need to unmount to test)

To make further tests, remove fuel pump relay, check voltage at relay's coil terminals in engine fuse panel when someone turn key to ON. If you have 12V, then PCM and PCM relay and fuse are good.

Then check the current at relay's switch terminal (not the default position). If there's no current, it's a bad contact. If you have 4A, it's the fuel pump. If you have more than 4A, it's a short.

Must be a gremlin. I went back to work and it fired right up. I'm going to start pulling fuses and relays when I go back tomorrow morning. Hopefully it was just a one time deal.

Low on fuel when it's cold outside can cause that. Add fuel in the tank if you need. It's should be at leat 1/2.

Tank is over 1/2 full, and I usually keep it that way during the winter months. I almost never let it get past 3/4 empty. I've been maintaining this van regularly when I got it back in '02. Fuel filter changes every 30,000 or less- just did it again last year. Like I said, hopefully it was just a glitch.

Have you checked the system voltage with the new alternator?

Yes- when running it's putting out 14.77 volts.

I just got a 2000 Windstar and after 3 weeks it would not start today. I checked the inertia switch and there is no power there. I switched the relays around for the fuel pump and horn with no change. What is the starter interrupt relay and will that make it not turn over? Right now it's turning over, and that is the only relay big enough to switch with the PCM one. But anyhow, before you drop the tank to check connections it's much easier to check that shutoff switch first.

I just got a 2000 Windstar and after 3 weeks it would not start today. I checked the inertia switch and there is no power there. I switched the relays around for the fuel pump and horn with no change. What is the starter interrupt relay and will that make it not turn over? Right now it's turning over, and that is the only relay big enough to switch with the PCM one. But anyhow, before you drop the tank to check connections it's much easier to check that shutoff switch first.

Interrupt relay is the antitheft relay. When the anti-theft system detect the signal of the chip in the key, it activates a relay so that the engine can crank.
If it's this relay the problem, engine will not crank.

It's not very clear. Engine doesn't crank or crank but doesn't start?

When you trun key to ON, you ear the fuel pump priming? It make a small sound at the back.

My Windstar LTD 2000 is having same issue. it happened couple times before this summer but i never noticed that it is going to be a typical problem. i took it to have a smog test and it would not start. they had to push it out from that joint but it started after i had it jump started. i had it tuned up shortly after and then this summer i did not get to drive it that often because when it is hot, weatherwise and engine wise, it will not start at all. high probability that it will not start, it cranked, when engine is hot or when it is very hot outside. i had new battery installed last winter. had pretty much everything changed except the engine computer and the fuel pump. i will drop the fuel tank this fall and see if anything i can do with the fuel pump. i have ford shop manual for this van but it does not have anything on how to fix this issue. that's why i did not take it to the shop because i know they will tell me craps.

Before dropping the fuel tank to see if there's a short circuit in the pump, there are tests that you can do to diagnose the problem more quickly. When it doesn't want to crank and start, remove the big f/pump's fuse under the hood and measure the current at the fuse's connectors (while key is ON or start). Then put the fuse back, and measure voltage between one of the fuse terminals and GND. If you have a lot of current (more than 5 Amps) and very low voltage, the problem is a short circuit. If the voltage is good but no current, the problem is the pump or a bad contact. If both are good, you need more tests, but it's not a short circuit nor a bad contact.

Adding to this old list.....

My 01 just blew a fuse on the fuel pump. It wouldn't start after coming out from the store. Was dark and I couldn't get that dang fuse/relay cover off. Had it towed home. Got the cover off. Fuse blown. Replaced fuse, started but battery is dead. Other issue going on with dying at idle...another thread....
So, I guess I need to check the voltage at the relay to make sure I'm getting the proper voltage from the battery to it. But, why the blown fuse? I am assuming that the connector to the pump is accessable from below and I can check voltage there? I haven't crawled under there yet but plan to. Of course, it's cold now and snow coming down a bit. Garage is cramped....car breaks down...FUN.
Where should I check first?

No, you can't check voltage under the van without disassembling the tank.

update...
Well, I changed out the fuel pump. This seemed to solve my no start/blowing fuse issue. Armature was bad.

Thanks

I have a windstar 2001. I can't start engine this morning. Engine crank sounds like battery went bad. Panel flash theft sign and emergency light on. I think chip in the key went bad. Please help. I can’t even open the hood (anti-theft?) so there no way to tell if it is battery problem.
It is cold this morning in Atlanta. I don’t know it has anything to do with it.

I think it's the battery, especially if dome light and panel & warning cluster brightness are low.

About the hood, it should be a problem with linkage or the hood latche is stuck. It may need to be lubricated.
Try to open the hood by grabbing the top of the front grid w/o forcing too much.

I agree. Sounds like a battery issue.
The hood on my Windstar sticks sometimes. Pull the release inside then pull up on the front of the hood...it should come up, then the underhood lever to raise it.

I think it's the battery, especially if dome light and panel & warning cluster brightness are low.

About the hood, it should be a problem with linkage or the hood latche is stuck. It may need to be lubricated.
Try to open the hood by grabbing the top of the front grid w/o forcing too much.

It is bettery! Bought new one. Everything ok now. Still don't understand all these flashing light and radio things which made thinking it is bad key. Hood might be just frozen. (less than 20 degree that day). I opened hood after 10:30 after warmed up little bit. thanks

It is bettery! Bought new one. Everything ok now. Still don't understand all these flashing light and radio things which made thinking it is bad key. Hood might be just frozen. (less than 20 degree that day). I opened hood after 10:30 after warmed up little bit. thanks

Bad chip key is very rare on Windstar. When engine stalls or doesn't start, it's normal that anti-theft light turns on when key is on. It just tell you that vehicle is protected and it's a bulb test. It's also stay on for 3 secs when you turn key to on. When your key have a problem, it will flashes when you turn to on or may stay on forever when you turn on. It's explained in manual.

About flashing dash, it's the tail light relay who is flashing because there's not enough voltage on the battery to turn on relay coil and park bulbs at the same time when park lights are on. So when dash turn on, batt voltage drop after 0.5sec, relay coil turns off and dash turns off, then batt voltage rise, coil turns on, dash turns on...

Also, when batt voltage drops, radio presets and settings reset so it remains by default to AM band and lound volume so you can hear parasitic noise.

Anyway, if it was the chip key, engine will not crank at all on Ford vehicles.

It's not battery because I just replaced mine a few days ago.

I have the same issue with my Windstar SE 2002. It won't sometimes crank the engine.
I don't wanna, but will go to a dealership or Firestone to have it checked. I hope there is Thanksgiving discount available.

However, as many people say, there may be something wrong with a fuel pump.

It's not battery because I just replaced mine a few days ago.

I have the same issue with my Windstar SE 2002. It won't sometimes crank the engine.
I don't wanna, but will go to a dealership or Firestone to have it checked. I hope there is Thanksgiving discount available.

However, as many people say, there may be something wrong with a fuel pump.

Freebsdrocks, first try to start in neutral, then in park again, then in neutral. Cause sometime the Transmissison Range Sensor (TRS) switch make bad contact and prevent the engine to crank. It's a frequent issue on Windstar.

Check also voltage on both battery and batterie's cable connectors to compare. Maybe the cable connectors of battery is dirty and make bad contact. Verify if it's tight on battery post as well. Press with a lot of force with the multimeter leads to terminals to make a good contact. I suggest you aligator clip if you have.

Check the voltage when the car is off and when you try to start. So you need 4 voltages measurements at total.

Could be also the ignition switch, starter solenoid....
So when you start, test the voltage at starter solenoid input if you have voltage on cable connectors.

Thanks, serge_satti.

I'll try what you told.

By the way, I just went to Firestone and they said "Changing a fuel pump costs $800."
That's too much for me....
My washer has just got broken too, so...

Sounds like Firestone didn't do any troubleshooting, right? Just price quote.
The fuel pump, good or bad, will not cause the engine to not crank. Non cranking is electrical to the battery, ground, ignition and starter/solenoid. One of those is causing that.
Do you hear the fuel pump come on and hum for a couple seconds when you turn the key over, but not trying to start it? You should hear it in the rear from the gas tank. You can usually hear it from inside the van too.

Do those voltage checks. You are bound to narrow it down.

Sounds like Firestone didn't do any troubleshooting, right? Just price quote.
The fuel pump, good or bad, will not cause the engine to not crank. Non cranking is electrical to the battery, ground, ignition and starter/solenoid. One of those is causing that.
Do you hear the fuel pump come on and hum for a couple seconds when you turn the key over, but not trying to start it? You should hear it in the rear from the gas tank. You can usually hear it from inside the van too.

Do those voltage checks. You are bound to narrow it down.

It's 99.9% true but... the only way a ful pump can prevent the engine to crank is when there's a little short-circuit (with some resistance) in the fuel pump wires that make drop the voltage and prevent the starter solenoid to activate. It happenned to someone with a Windstar, but it's very rare. So the fuel pump wires is the last thing to check.

It's still possible to remove the fuel pump fuse and see if it cranks to eliminate the possibility. But in last recourse.

I have a similar problem where when the vehicle is at running temperature it sometimes will not start back up.
The engine turns over but will not start. However if I shoot a little ether (starting fluid) into the breather it fires right up.
I checked the next time this happened to see if there was fuel in the fuel rail by pressing the pressure hook-up (looks like a valve stem). What I got was air not fuel like I should have, so what is happening is a "vapor lock". I am going to change the fuel filter now. I will post a response to the outcome.
Keep in mind this is an intermittent problem so it will be a little while before I am certain, unless it happens again.
One more thing, this has ONLY happened when running the AC when it is hot outside.