windstar won't start - sometimes

Vapor lock can happen on Windstar when it's hot outside and engine is hot.
Try to fill with supreme fuel at Shell with 0% alcohol in the fuel.
Higher octane fuel increase the boiling point of the fuel. Lower alcohol rate too.
Try also to add 5% of diesel when you fill up.

Try also to prime the fuel pump many time before starting to increase fuel presure, and condensate fuel vapor into liquid.
To do that: turn key to On, Off, On, Off, On, Off, 1 second duration at each ON phase, then START.

If it still doesn't help, install an rubber insulator on fuel injectors and fuel rails to prevent them to heat and cause vapor lock.
Fuel rails are metallic, so they are vey heat conductive.

Read more info here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1087820

Changing fuel filter will not help. Because the fuel filter is very far from the engine compartment and thus, it does'nt heat up. There's no production of vapor in the filter like there was in old carburated engine with filter under hood. The vapor is formed within injectors and fuel rails.

I think the reason why it happens when you run A/C, is because when you run A/C, the cooling fan turn on and blow hot air from the rad to fuel rail and injectors. Turn off A/C when you stop at red lights, because air coming from the rad is hotter at stop.

Try also to rev up during 1 minute before turning off the engine to increase fuel pressure, thus increase fuel boiling point, and cool down fuel injector with higher fuel debit.
Turn key off before releasing gas pedal.

Also, add antifreeze additive like Red Line Water Wetter to reduce engine block temperature, and reduce the chance of vapor lock.

Does my tips help to prevent vapor lock? You still have the problem?

I have a 2001 Windstar LX and I have the exact same problems as ArtOfKicking, although I haven't tried checking if there is fuel at the fuel rail. It does blow the fuel pump relay occassionally when it kills. Fuel system has been flushed and fuel filter replaced. Will try keeping tank above 1/2 full and see if that helps. Just got quotes from mechanics to replace fuel pump, ouch!!! serge_saati, I'll try your suggestions as well. Can a non-mechanically inclined person change the fuel pump?? Thanks!

The fuel tank must be dropped to change the fuel pump ... heavy, clumsy work ... but not rocket science. The tank must be emptied of fuel or it's super heavy and dangerous. The vehicle must be jacked way up off the ground and safely supported.

I would rate it an 7.5 in a scale of 10 for mechanical difficulty...but only because of weight and close working quarters. There is also a risk of having gasoline splash about if pressures aren't relieved and care taken.

As far as fire risk ... it gets a 10!

Caric67, does it happens only when engine is very hot and it's hot outside, or it can also happen when the engine is cold?

It has happened a couple times when the engine is cold, but 9 times out of 10 when engine is hot & it's hot outside when using the A/C. I left it parked over the winter, wouldn't start in November 2012. I got a new fuel pump relay last night but didn't install it. I also cleaned the battery posts and terminals and charged the battery overnight last night figuring I would try and tackle the fuel pump this weekend. The battery is less than a year old. This morning the van started right up!!:banghead:. This is really frustrating!!

It has happened a couple times when the engine is cold, but 9 times out of 10 when engine is hot & it's hot outside when using the A/C. I left it parked over the winter, wouldn't start in November 2012. I got a new fuel pump relay last night but didn't install it. I also cleaned the battery posts and terminals and charged the battery overnight last night figuring I would try and tackle the fuel pump this weekend. The battery is less than a year old. This morning the van started right up!!:banghead:. This is really frustrating!!
Ok, so it's not vapor lock for you Caric67.

It could be fuel starvation caused by fuel soak. In your intake valves, you may have carbon build-up. When the fuel passes through the valves, it get soaked by the carbon build-up who act like a fuel sponge, and that cause fuel starvation. Your injectors need to spray a lot of fuel until it reaches the combustion chamber; that means until the "fuel sponge" is saturated. The carbon deposit could be also into the injectors.
Heat causes build up of carbon and varnish in the engine.
It's a possible cause.

You may try to add carbon solvent such as BG products 44K fuel system cleaner, or Chevron Techron to your fuel for a couple of tankfulls to see if it helps.

Thanks serge_saati! I will try those suggestions also. If I decide to replace the pump, what's the best option to go with, the pump and strainers or the whole assembly? Any recommendations on brands or where to get at store or online? I have an O'Reilly Auto Parts and Weaver Auto in my town.

One other thing I hadn't thought about.... I had to replace the engine a couple years back due to a spun bearing and I didn't have these issues with the old engine. Got a junk yard engine as a replacement so I wonder with the engine sitting for awhile if there wasn't some gunk in the injectors and such.....

Thanks again!

Didn't get a chance to work on the van over the weekend. However, I did start it and turn it off several times in a row and it started up every time. I let the engine warm up and then turned it off. Wouldn't start. I did notice that I do not always hear the fuel pump when turning the key on. Turned the key on/off several times in a row until heard fuel pump and then it started. Turned it off again and tried to start it again and couldn't hear the fuel pump at all. I tried turning the key on/off several times and never heard the fuel pump. WIll try again today and see if I need to replace the relay again.....

Try to swap relay instead of replacing relay. It'll will save you the price of a new relay.
Check also the PCM relay, this one control the fuel pump relay.
When it doesn't start, remove the fuel pump fuse, and connect a 10A amperemeter or even a voltmeter in place of the fuse at the fuse socket terminals.
If you have current or voltage but no fuel pump noise, you have continuity but the fuel pump is jammed. Then you need to hit the fuel tank with a hammer w/o breaking the tank to make it work.

I need some advise. I have a 2000 Windstar that won't start. There was no intermittent starting, just suddenly nothing(not cranking)! I have checked the battery & it is good. I pulled the starter & had it bench tested which it passed. I have checked all the fuses in the passenger compartment & under the hood & they are all good. I have viewed the schematic & there's not much in the scheme of things! I don't want to aimlessly throw money at it till its running! I've tried rocking the van while in park, beat on the starter, I also tried starting it in Neutral, with no results.

The schematic shows a 60A fuse which I believe is a relay, the ignition switch, starter interrupt relay, & the trans range sensor. Pretty straight forward!

How do I troubleshoot the above mentioned items to figure out what part is actually failing?

To troubleshot:
-While you crank, test the voltage at the "key" small wire at the starter solenoid. It's a small yellow/blue wire that activate the starter solenoid. It should be 12V for all the tests.
-If there's no voltage, test the voltage at pin n° 86 of the start interrupt relay socket of the fuse box while starting.
-If there's no voltage, test the voltage at one of the two test point pins of the red fuse n°19 10A while starting. W/O removing the fuse.

So if the 1st test pass (you have 12V), it's the starter area.
If the 2nd test fail (0V) and the 3rd test pass (12V), the problem is the TRS area.
If the 3rd test fail (0V), the problem is the ignition switch.

Here's the schematic for your 2000 Windstar. It's a little bit different of the 1995-1998.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=49833&thumb=1&d=1379217369 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=49833&d=1379217369)
The difference is the anti-theft relay is after the Transmission range sensor.

The relay is in this schematic. But I can't guarantee that it's the real fuse box schematic.

http://i71.servimg.com/u/f71/18/44/06/54/2011-110.jpg

Windstar 2000 starting circuit schematic

http://i71.servimg.com/u/f71/18/44/06/54/windst10.png

Newbie to the forum, first post. 1998 Ford Windstar 3.8L Won't start most of the time. So far I've replaced the Fuel Pump/Sending Unit, Starter/Solenoid, checked all relays. Battery is new. Battery cable connections are new. Sometimes it starts right away, but most times lately it just clicks and won't start (all lights and sounds are working well...no dimming, etc). It's happened a few times while out and about and as a last resort, both times, asked some people with big trucks to jump it (won't jump with anything smaller) then eventually, it fires up but it takes at least 10-15 minutes. :banghead:

Maybe you have a parasitic drain in your electrical circuit that drain the battery. Does it happens when you don't drive for many hour or it can also happen if you stop for few minutes at attempt to start it? When it doesn't start, what is your battery voltage? It should be 12.5V.

I'm not sure about the '98, but I know a bit about the '99. There are some relays in the circuit for the starter solenoid. They can get "iffy". Rather than have those uncomfortable moments when nothing wants to work ... you may want to permanently install a jumper wire from battery positive to the signal terminal on the starter. Attached hard to the starter solenoid, but left loose at the battery end. Use when needed ... it jumps around everything that wants to interfere with the cranking.

I'm not sure about the '98, but I know a bit about the '99. There are some relays in the circuit for the starter solenoid. They can get "iffy". Rather than have those uncomfortable moments when nothing wants to work ... you may want to permanently install a jumper wire from battery positive to the signal terminal on the starter. Attached hard to the starter solenoid, but left loose at the battery end. Use when needed ... it jumps around everything that wants to interfere with the cranking.

I agree. It could be also the fuse/relay box of the engine bay that is cracked, a common problem on Ford.
Try also to start in neutral instead of park.

2003 Windstar has failed to start on 3 different occasions over the past month. The only sound is "click, click" when turning key. Took it to Advance Auto, and battery, starter, and alternator (which is new) all tested "good." Yesterday an interior light was left on for 3 hours and the van wouldn't start. Jumped it and it started fine. Came out this morning and it started fine again. 30 minutes later my wife tried to start it and it was dead again, so she had to get a jump. One very strange thing is that after the van is jumpstarted, the hazard lights are on, even though they had not been turned on previously. :banghead:
Any ideas are very much appreciated.

It could also be the Daytime Running Light Module fried.... i had a problem like this in my mustang but it would keep the headlights on ( the only way i found it was putting my battery charger on it at night and i thought strange the headlights are on checked everything and low and behold i could smell electronics frying and investigated the smell and when i touched the fins on the DRL module it was so hot that it left burn scars on my hand luckily it didn't catch fire but it could be anything including a simple module

Hey ya'all Im new here but like what i been reading its been very helpfull I have a no start condition as well on a 99 Windstar LX the horn works and the fuel pump fuse was blown I replaced it and it wants to try and run, I have little fuel pressure almost none at the rail the battery has been slowly going dead as well, im about certain its the fuel pump but just was wondering what ya'all think..Thanks

I'm on my 4th or 5th fuel pump on my '99 .... 375K miles. Fuel pumps do fail.

I'm on my 4th or 5th fuel pump on my '99 .... 375K miles. Fuel pumps do fail.

12Ounce -

Do you know what the failure mechanism has been on your fuel pumps? Any warnings?

I'm still on the original fuel pump at 170K+ miles. Should I do a preventive maintenance replacement?

Unfortunately, there is not much preventive action that can be taken ... its mostly the luck of the draw. Of course, one could change the in-line filter often ... that might help, I'm not sure. One could also always buy "clean" gasoline, that would be easier for the pump to manage .... and I don't know how you do that either ... especially if you are on a long trip and lucky to find any fuel when you need it.
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As far as a precursor goes, I think in almost all of my cases of pump failure, I first noticed a increasing, but fairly sudden, lost of power ... more difficulty climbing hills, accelerating, etc. Often, there would be some relief if the tank were freshly filled, or even shutting the engine down and restarting.
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I don't think I would change out the pump as prevention ... your pump may go "forever". But if might be a good action to go ahead and buy a good pump from a good on-line source, just to have on hand. That way you have most of the down-time managed.

Thanks! At the moment, I'll just hope mine keeps working...

Did you replace it yourself? How tough is it to drop the tank, etc.?

OOPs! I edited while you were typing. Yes, I did the job each time ... a beast of a job. The huge, cumbersome tank must be lowered. If I ever have to do it again, I believe I will measure and cut an access hole through the floor pan.

Thanks! Yeah, I replaced the fuel pump in my '86 Mustang years ago. As I recall, it wasn't that bad, but dropping the tank was a chore.

I have this same problem with my '99 Windstar. She's a two-tone... red over rust. This appears to be a very common problem with the Windstar, so I'm a bit surprised Ford has not addressed it. With me, for the past couple years, my Windstar, with full tank of fuel and a new battery, and running perfectly at all times, would all of a sudden decide to crank over normally, but refuse to start. This happens about once in every 50 start attempts. Lurking on this site, I've learned about listening for the fuel pump to make it's normal priming sound when my key is turned to 'on'. It's easy for me to hear with the radio and heater fans turned off, and it's smooth humming sound sounds ok to me, and lasts for about 1 second. When I hear it, I know my Windstar will start, and it does every time. When I don't hear it, I know it won't start, and it doesn't. So, to keep from needlessly cranking and cranking on my starter and new battery, I've conditioned myself to turn the key to 'on' and listen for the fuel pump to prime before attempting to start. On those occasions when I don't hear the pump, I know it won't start, so I turn the key to 'off', leaving the key in the ignition, and wait two full minutes. Then I try again and I always hear the fuel pump prime and it always starts just fine. I don't know if the "waiting two full minutes" is the "fix" for this problem, but it has never failed me yet (knock wood). Also while lurking on this site, I became more enlightened about shift lever position, so the last couple times my Windstar decided not to start, instead of waiting the two full minutes, I simply turned the key to 'off', then turned the key to 'on', shifted to neutral, and tried starting, which worked perfectly both times. I know it's not my key chip, because I have two keys, both with chips, and the "not wanting to start every now and then" problem has manifested itself from time to time no matter which key I use, and I find it highly unlikely that both key chips would fail at the same time. So the "fix" I'm offering this forum is not based on any mechanical knowledge, but it also won't cost you a penny... when your old Windstar cranks just fine but doesn't feel like starting, shift to neutral and try again. If that doesn't work, wait 2 full minutes and try again. (While waiting, try reminding the old girl about how close you live to the junkyard). Ridiculous, I know, but it has worked for me every time, whether in 90 degree heat of summer or 15 below zero cold of winter. I'll keep using those two methods until I finally become stranded because she just will no longer start, or until there is a definite diagnosis and proper fix listed on sites like this. I just can't justify spending several hundred dollars on a new fuel pump for a vehicle which is only worth about 20 bucks now.

Thomas, to my mind, you do not have the symptoms of a failing fuel pump ... maybe, but I doubt it. Like you are suspecting, something in the power circuit is failing. Don't overlook the fuel pump relay ... sometimes, while on the battery alone, a relay can be very iffy ... not pulling in nice and tightly. But once the engine is running and the alternator spinning, that same relay will be doing just fine.

12Ounce, Thanks very much. I'll take your advice and throw a new fuel pump relay in her. That will be a cheap and easy bit of preventive maintenance before the snow flies... could even spare me some super-cold grief this winter. Heck, it might even work! My old Windstar is such a mess, but the drivetrain so far has proven bullet proof... even the notorious transmission still shifts like new. The old gal just won't die. I'll try it, drive it awhile to see if I suffer any further mis-starts, and post back with the results. Thanks again for taking the time to respond.

I agree with 12Ounce, it could be the circuit that power the fuel pump. Maybe the fuse box circuit board is cracked Inside but I doubt. Try also to push on the fuse and relay in the power fuse box and remove the pump relay and put it back, it could help if it's the board. Or swap relay with horn if the problem is the relay.

And puting in neutral wil not affect the fuel pump, only the starter, so not useful in your case.

Have you changed the fuel filter in the past couple of years? That's often overlooked and could cause a drop in fuel pressure. If it's been a while, I'd throw in a new one just to rule that out.

Thanks everybody for taking the time to post your thoughts and advice, for which I'm truly appreciative. I replaced the fuel pump relay, hoping for a quick, cheap, and easy fix. Unfortunately, my old Windstar had some thoughts to post on the matter as well, and yesterday she voiced her opinion loud and clear in the form of a total fuel pump failure, in a cramped and busy grocery store parking lot during rush hour no less. So I thought "did the new relay fry already?" So, I tried putting the old one back in, and still no luck. Dang it, Ford, my ice cream's melting! (Well, in her defense, it wasn't like she hadn't given me plenty of warning that this was coming. I guess I just need to listen to her better). Then the old rustbucket gave me some sage advice... "call a tow truck". So I took her advice. And now, one new fuel pump and fuel filter later, and with my wallet now being much easier to sit on, she's back to purring like a kitten and ready for a fresh new winter of Minnesota road salt. It looks like I'm now stuck with the rusty old gal for another several years (sigh). Thanks, Ford... she truly is the gift that keeps on giving.

I'm glad your van is fixed. You were right, it was the fuel pump. It was getting old and weak. I know these parts are expensive when they're new and break sometime.