Turbo checklist for next month

lol...^ hard core ricer...GReddy is nice, Tail is awesome but way expensive...im gettin the HKS SSQV because its top quality without top price, and it makes a low whistle sound...

depending on your turbo size and boost level, certain bov's will work better than others. I had an RFL on my original setup but since i was only running 9psi on my 60trim and the bov was on the cold side, i tended to surge. There was enough air flow and the bov was far enough from the turbo that it was easier to back out of the turbo rather than the small valve in the RFL.

Also, if you think about why a bov is used, you can basically understand why it would be better to put it closer to the turbo. The bov is used to protect the turbo from surge, not just to sound cool...lol. If you run on the hot side, then the excess pressurized air coming off the turbo will immediately exit the piping rather than having to pass through all the piping before exiting...it does matter if you're running a small valve.

I personally would get the Tial because of the functionality. I dont care about the sound because i'm not trying to impress anyone. I had an RFL, it leaked....i got the Tial and built boost faster since it didn't leak out...also the RFL may be louder (annoying IMO), the Tial gives a cool flutter...if you're looking for a cool sound, it doesn't get much better.

If you dont need a bov the size of the Tial 50mm, which you dont, i would get the HKS SSQV.

....any more questions, just ask!

yeah I got the hks ssqv, just got it placed too. It's the 2nd pipe coming out of the turbo... I have a 90 degree bend, then the bov, then another 90 degree bend, then a weird pipe, then another weird pipe into the intercooler, then a long weird pipe, a short 90 connected to another short 90 going into the TB.... :)

sounds good...post some pics of it once its on the car...

if ya promise not to laugh, lol... Will be completely finished Wednesday... I'm just piecing it back together little piece by piece and doing all the extra shit that I've wanted to do but never had time... then we will be tuning it Friday. We just did minor stuff like clock my turbo the right way and do my feed and return the right way, and finally got my bov on... have you ever tried to squezee a snap ring together without special pliers???? yeah I gave up (after bending the snap ring) and going to auto zone to buy the damn pliers... went right in in like 2 minutes, lol.

If you run on the hot side, then the excess pressurized air coming off the turbo will immediately exit the piping rather than having to pass through all the piping before exiting...

But isnt the air already there throughout the entire piping? Its not like there is a void of nothing once you press the clutch to open the bov, the tubing is still full completely full of air. The air is going to come out anyways. And wouldnt it be better to be closer to the TB cause all of the air is being sucked towards that location. You are trying to reverse the direction of the air in the tubing, by having the bov closer to the turbo. If it were near the turbo then all of the air closer to the TB would not exit as efficiently, thus not using the bov to its potential right?

Does that make any sense? I think it would be better to have it closer to the TB.

But isnt the air already there throughout the entire piping? Its not like there is a void of nothing once you press the clutch to open the bov, the tubing is still full completely full of air. The air is going to come out anyways. And wouldnt it be better to be closer to the TB cause all of the air is being sucked towards that location. You are trying to reverse the direction of the air in the tubing, by having the bov closer to the turbo. If it were near the turbo then all of the air closer to the TB would not exit as efficiently, thus not using the bov to its potential right?

Does that make any sense? I think it would be better to have it closer to the TB.

i agree with everything except the statement "one you press the clutch to open the BOV"...

The clutch doesnt control the BOV wat-so-ever. you can test this by floring it and letting off the gas, you will hear your BOV even when u never touch ur clutch.:rolleyes: :grinno:

when you let off the gas your TB closes or acts accordingly, which causes the BOV to vent the pressure elsewhere. i would think that if the TB closes instantly, you would want the pressurized air that is already flowing toward the TB to vent somewhere near the TB so you wouldnt cause Turbo Surge :) (y would you want the air to come back at the turbo to vent)

well thanks for the opinions everyone, but my bov is already mounted. I am putting my alternator back in and changing my oil and coolant when I get home... Then hopefully fire it up and make sure it works, lol... any precautions I should take before I start the car, besides make sure everything is hooked back up... I need to get oil to the bearings by cranking the engine before it starts spinning... I think... but besides that any other suggestions?... I won't be taking it anyway, just making sure that it starts... It's kinda tuned, but we will be doing the "fine tuning" Friday... this is just for my personal satisfaction, and also to make sure I can get to and from the exhaust shop, lol...

But isnt the air already there throughout the entire piping? Its not like there is a void of nothing once you press the clutch to open the bov, the tubing is still full completely full of air. The air is going to come out anyways. And wouldnt it be better to be closer to the TB cause all of the air is being sucked towards that location. You are trying to reverse the direction of the air in the tubing, by having the bov closer to the turbo. If it were near the turbo then all of the air closer to the TB would not exit as efficiently, thus not using the bov to its potential right?

True there is air throughout the piping, but the difference is that it isn't immediate. The air has to pass through all of the piping and the intercooler first.

This is hard to explain and i'm tired so this may be a little wordy....:uhoh:

Think of this...air comes out of the turbo into 2.5" piping at 10psi at roughly 180mph. This air is going to pass through the piping rather quickly. Since it is moving through an intercooler, there is restriction. This restriction causes what is known as "pressure drop." For example, if there is 10psi coming out of the turbo and only afterwards there is only 9psi on the other side of the intercooler. Restriction in the intercooler causing there to be more air on the turbo side of the intercooler than the throttle body side.

At 10psi that's not a big deal because its only 1psi of extra air and that will pass through the bov if the air is moving enough. The problem occurs more when more pressure is run through a given setup. If you have 10% pressure drop and you're running 25psi, you now have an extra 2.5psi that's going to go somewhere.

Like i have said though, this isn't an exact science...having a bov on the upper cold side is going to be fine in MOST setups. I had small problems with that location and my small valved bov. If you have a properly sized bov to your turbo, you will never have problems...its when you have a larger turbo and a smaller bov coupled with bad location that you have problems.

I hope that makes more sense.....

my BOV is directly mounted to the turbo...(stock surge valve) and you can add a plate to make the PSSSHHHHH sound...:thumbsup: i guess this is the best possible BOV for a turbo is having the surge valve mounted directly to the turbo. thats y i need a Block Off Plate if i install an aftermarket BOV

Yea, my bad on the clutch thing its was late. But I see what you are saying and I guess every setup is going to have to be put together differently so that everything is kosher. I know that you guys have more experience than me so I am trying to sound like I know what I am talking about.

Good news....


my car.....







runs...
well, it idles, so I'm assuming it'll run. I don't get my exhaust on until Wednesday so I can't drive it anywhere... but God DAMN is it loud without an exhaust, lol. Sounds like old hot rod, lol


remind me what happens without an oil restrictor...

cuz mine was leaking oil like a MF!!!! so I took it off and let it idle for like 20 seconds before I got scared and turned it off, lol..

Did you put any teflon tape on it?

yes sir.

but I've also established that it is a -3an flange not a -4an like I had thought before... so shouldn't it be okay then?

if its -3an you dont need a restrictor....i would highly doubt you got a -4an because most companies don't sell that unless specified....screw the oil drain in tightly too. Lets see pics of the drain because 9 times out of 10 that's the problem w/ oil leaking and turbos failing....

girlfriend took the camera, will have to wait til Thursday...

nah the drain is fine, I just took out my dipstick and ran it to the same hole... it's tight, not going anywhere, and the feed is snug too...

as soon as my mom's bf gets here we're loading up the cavi on the trailer and taking it down to the "shop" where they're going to put my exhaust on... I don't know if I should just have them redo the whole exhaust or if it should just meet the midpipe....

RUN A DUMP! IT MAY BE LOUD! BUT ITS STRICTLY PERFORMANCE!

god...lol if you run a dump, then your exhaust is completly finished...

dump = LESS TURBO LAG / no BACKPRESSURE!

dump... then my car might take a dump, lol...

no my exhaust people crapped out on me, so now I have to do it myself... this will be fun... sigh

umm....you mean open downpipe....his car has no dumptube because the wastegate is integrated into the turbo

o....wait what!?...PM me :thumbsup:

i thought a dump tube was just the exhaust coming from the turbo...

exhaust thru turbo (spins turbine), then through o2 housing, and straight out (dump tube) downpipe

Exhaust through the turbo exits the downpipe

Exhaust that bypasses the turbo through a wastegate exits through a dumptube....




PICS!!

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j193/Schister66-3/Turboweekend018.jpg

The dumptube is the 90degree downward angle with the silver Tial 38mm wastegate on it....

The downpipe is the big ass 3" pipe that is coming out of the turbo....



This is my setup as of right now if you guys haven't seen it....i'm swapping turbos this weekend and getting rid of that oversized 60-1. It only has 85 miles on it...lol

dibs..:lol:

lol...

cough up the $750 (which is $149 under retail) and you can have it....my buddy Eric is already paying payments on it though....lol.

Dark Eliso, you should toss up another picture of your turbo on here with a comparison...get a tape measure and take a few measurement pics. It was a Super 60 correct??

Nope, t3/t4 hyrbid turbonetics. I will when I get home... temporary setup, until I can find someone who actually knows how to bend pipe for me...

do you know the specs on it or have a picture of it so that i can approximately figure it out?? There are about 1000 variations on the "Turbonetics T3/T04x Hybrid"

Also, when you're taking pictures remember to measure the compressor inlet from side to side, the compressor outlet, and the turbine outlet

k, later...

quick question, not that i wanna boost but if i were to get an intake mani and tb to set off the cams im gettin can i get the same intake mani that eliso got? or is that a turbo intake mani?

I got the ebay T3 manifold... T3 ... for Turbo...

where are the pics asshole... :)

who me? lol

girlfriend took the camera, will have to wait til Thursday...




Its friday evening... I want progress pics. Lol....

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2362000-2362999/2362121_143_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2362000-2362999/2362121_144_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2362000-2362999/2362121_145_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2362000-2362999/2362121_146_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2362000-2362999/2362121_152_full.jpg



http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2362000-2362999/2362121_147_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2362000-2362999/2362121_150_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2362000-2362999/2362121_151_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2362000-2362999/2362121_148_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2362000-2362999/2362121_149_full.jpg

First set is turbo progress pics, the second set are like... what I did when I was waiting for parts or frustrated with the turbo, lol... There's your damn pics! lol.

Those 15's may look like walmart speakers but they are LOUD!... btw I have a guess what's in the box game coming up soon, and here's a clue... It will replace SOMETHING in one of these pics... BTW again... moving those 6x9's up through the rear deck was probably one of thse easiest mods i've ever done...and it sounds a billion times better..if you haven't already I highly recommend it.

So the real reason you are putting the turbo on is to make up for the 200 pounds of speaker box you have in the trunk right?

Lol... Wow, i guess you went more for functionality rather than looks. Don't think i've ever seen exhaust pipe tubing used for a charge pipe. If i were you'd i'd see if you could get some of the pipe sections welded together. You might have issues with Boost leaks with that many clamps and and joints.

yeah.. I'll "roll up" and be like "yeah, I got boost...what? pop the hood?...umm...errr... so let's race then?" lol

Those 15's may look like walmart speakers but they are LOUD!... btw I have a guess what's in the box game coming up soon, and here's a clue... It will replace SOMETHING in one of these pics...

Hopefully something to replace those Legacy subs lol. They are loud for now, but I doubt they will last long.

Oh and CLEAN YOUR DAMN ENGINE BAY!!!

quick question, not that i wanna boost but if i were to get an intake mani and tb to set off the cams im gettin can i get the same intake mani that eliso got? or is that a turbo intake mani?

there aren't many strictly "turbo" intake manifolds...they can all be used on all motor setups because they are simply designed to flow more air. You can use whatever intake manifold you chose to use, but the confusion seemed to be that you were talking about the exhaust manifold. That would not work for you, nor would it flow very well.....

crush bent charge piping isn't a great idea, but if it works...whatever. The only problem i see is that the clamp you have holding the piping to the turbo is not going to seal well enough to keep the pressure in the system...

where's the wastegate on that manifold?? I thought this turbo was internally gated, but the hole is blocked off.....

all temporary... until I can find a person good at bending piping "mandrel"...

and it is internally gated...see look..

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/10/web/2362000-2362999/2362121_128_full.jpg

no i realize it is, but until i looked at the picture again i couldn't tell that it was being used.....i see how it is routed back into the main collector

if I cleaned my engine bay then it wouldn't need cleaned anymore... lol

if I cleaned my engine bay then it wouldn't need cleaned anymore... lol

ok what?? Was that one of those "see spot run, spot runs fast" kind of sentences??

idk what you were trying to say, but it made me laugh....i'm hungry :licka: yummy

ok what?? Was that one of those "see spot run, spot runs fast" kind of sentences??

idk what you were trying to say, but it made me laugh....i'm hungry :licka: yummy

He was responding to me....although I have no clue what he is saying either lol.

lol. I'm saying if It was clean, then I wouldn't be the guy with a dirty engine bay anymore...... it doesn't make any sense, and it's an easy way to say that I'm lazy, lol

lol. I'm saying if It was clean, then I wouldn't be the guy with a dirty engine bay anymore...... it doesn't make any sense, and it's an easy way to say that I'm lazy, lol

Got ya! Well quit being lazy lol.

(totally off topic sorry guys)
but how do you clean your engine bay... i'd take a picture of mine, but i cringe everytime i see it.

got a umm... steam cleaner? lol... that's actually a good question, I'd like to know the answer to... since it WOULD benefit me... I know you have to d/c like the battery and alternator and wrap a plastic bag around the alternator... but besides that.. that's about it, lol..

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/7486/dscf0788rm0.jpg

Mines quite dirty actually..... :(

So was our shops turbo'd 2200

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/329/47bx.jpg

... I guess we best jump on cleaning these things. ;)

Cover up your air filter with a plastic bag if you have a short ram intake... Take a hose and spray your engine down while cool with water. Get a super concentrated mixture of "SIMPLE GREEN" Spray every square inch of your engine bay with a mister bottle. I normally empty the whole bottle and it takes me around 15 mins to spray, let is soak, spray it some more and let is soak in for a bit, keep continuing this process. If you have some serious build ups, get a rag and wipe it out of the areas. My car has never been grease covered, so i can just shoot it and wash it off with a hose. Then i get my wet/dry shop vacuum and suck the water out of the spark plug holes, and if any got into the strut mounts cause they will rust if you don't get it out. Then i use some shop rags and wipe all the excess water off. I hit ever rubber, plastic, painted metal, surface with Armor all. I do this like 2-3 times a year and the engine still looks brand new.. 59,355 miles on the car.

why did I think you had a Z cody?....

No clue... OHV FTW! :biggrin:

heck yes.

No clue... OHV FTW! :biggrin:

If you say so lol.

I've seen what a dohc looks like on the inside, like the camshafts or whatever... what does the ohv look like? is it just one of those.. or... does anyone have any teardown pics?

those engine bays look soo much different than what i'm used to....they are clean, but here's what i want my engine bay to look like...not that its ever goinig to happen, but still this is clean as hell!!

The car belongs to Tony the Tiger. It is a wicked street car that makes around 400whp, but has crazy response. The engine is a built DART block w/ 11.5:1 compression, a GT2871R .82ar turbo and ITBs enclosed within a hand built plenum. Tuned on AEM by Tony himself. The car also has water injection to help with the possible detonation problems....the best part is how sleeper it is...

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d61/Schister66-2/TonyTheTiger--sleeper.jpg

No clue... OHV FTW! :biggrin:

uhhh :uhoh: :screwy: :shakehead
lol no no no no!:banghead:

uhhh :uhoh: :screwy: :shakehead
lol no no no no!:banghead:

Random question for you Bryan... Is your rear rotor solid or vented? I'm in the market for some SRT-4 rotors.

no exhaust shop in town will come close to my car. Cody where you live? I'm coming to your shop and you're doing my exhaust whether you like it or not!

Port Byron, NY