Boosted Blow Thru Build.

An update on the car. I stripped the interior out of the car yesterday. Everything but the headliner. Got the old wiring removed and the new wiring roughed in. Just gonna solder/heat shrink the ignition wires. Hide/plumb/test underhood wiring. Then run everything to the back of the car. Buy a fuse for the main power wire. Ect ect, still alot to do but it is roughed in. Its raining today. Looks like I may have to get about .060" shaved off of my crank pulley spacer. I'll let the CNC programmer at work do that. So I still have a ways to go but getting the wiring atleast started and heading in the right direction was a huge releif. Now it actually looks like I'm getting somewhere with the interior. I may go ahead and put a roll cage in while the interior is out. I'll just have to see.

Well a little progress report is due I guess. The fuel system is finished. Exhaust system made. I was just about done welding the passenger side in when I maxed out the duty cycle on the welder so I'll hit it early in the morning. I got the -16AN bulkhead Tig'd onto my radiator. Finally got my CSR thermostat housing, I'm on my second one now. The bolt holes where drilled off location on the first one I got, called Summit and exchanged it. The new one they sent me had the same problem but not quite as bade so I just drilled the holes out a little bit more to give the bolts room to get started. Got that on and the Aeroquip -16AN 90* hose end wont tighten up on the thermostat housing, neither will the 30* one I have. I get them as tight as possible but the bend/hose end still wiggles around and will not seal. So I bought a flex hose with 1-1/4" ID and clamped it on the -16AN threads for now. Got the fans and tranny cooler mounted. Pretty much done. A friend from work is coming over tomarrow to help wire a few more things up. Just lack the spade terminals on the starter & alt. Then gotta wire the fuel pump, fuel level guage, tail lights, turn signals, oil pressure guages, guage lights, tach, and fans tomarrow. Other than that I just have to run my speedo cable, boost guage line, finish welding exhaust, run one brake line, bolt in the shifter, and pick up 5 gal of 93 octane! Trying my damndest to have this thing running by the 4th. Its gonna be painfully loud though. I have BBK 1-3/4" LT's with 3" collectors, 2' of 3" pipe, 3" Dynomax bullets I think 16" long, and 3" dumps. I think my neighbors will hate me and the cops will give me a ticket for being too loud but mayble I'll just get a warning and get away with it untill I can afford a little better "street car" exhaust. How quite are the Borla XR1's?

How quite are the Borla XR1's?

There not :lol:

Glad to see the progress:thumbsup:

so my question is, what still stock on this car?

so my question is, what still stock on this car?

The cracked windsheild, rear view mirror, side mirrors, seats, carpet, and headlights/tail lights.

There not :lol:

Glad to see the progress:thumbsup:

Thanks Tony. Is there a straight thrue mufflers that isnt insane & illegally loud?

Magna Flow, Borla makes some but I forget what they are called, I know the XR1s are very loud. I put a set of Borlas on my old mustang, and they made the exhaust note drop in half, but when you got into it they would open up after they had about 500 miles on them.

Got the car ready to fire today. I forgot that I bumped the motor over a little when I was testing the starter. Then I wanted to prime the oil pump one last time before I fired it. When I set the dist back in I set it in to #1@TDC, but forgot that #1 wasnt at TDC anymore. So I will have to bring #1 up top tomarrow and reset the dizzy.

:)

We have all done that.

Atleast I know I have Air/fuel/fire. Had a gas leak, fire shot out of the blower inlet due to firing on the intake stroke, and the blower it turning over.

Anyone ready for this?













IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ran #1 back up to TDC, re-primed the oil pump, dropped the dizzy in at #1, pressed the gas and turned the key! Fired right up and ran like a charm, cams pretty good too. I have 2 feet of 3" pipe with 3" dynomax bullets and 3" dumps pointed down & out, you can still hear the blower from behind the car! You do however have to raise your voice or mildly yell at people on the other side of the car lol. I've had one small water leak which was just a bad waterpump gasket. I have a new gasket I'm gonna put on in the morning, the go get it inspected and drive it! This has been a long time coming. Special thanks to Tony (Skyline) & Boosted331 for the advice in the beginning and the support along the way! I gotta try to sleep sometime tonight, I'll see what I can do about posting up a video sometime. Gotta get the motor broke in before I can waiste my MT DR's though. This has one awsome day! Thanks guys!

That is great news!

I can't wait to see it action.

What time are you shooting for? I think you should be in the 10s with that set up.

My suspension should put me at a 1.39ish 60' with 600rwhp which Brent thinks I'll make no prob. So a 9.9999999999@ 137ish would be great.

If you get 9s, I will be hella impressed :D

Just got back a little while ago with the car. Its running hot due to the fans not working. But one quick stab to WOT broke the tires loose in drive going about 45mph at about 2200rpms. It will haze the tires at 1/4 throttle thrue first and second no problem.

Anyone got a idea on the wiring for these fans? They are 12" Mr.Gasket fans from Summit. I have them on "switched power" battery to toggle switch, toggle switch to fans, fans to ground. The toggle also has a ground. I have them both grounded and as soon as the fans start turning it pops the fuse. I've tryed 10A & 15A fuses. The fans pull 10.2A each, is that the problem? Thanks.

You should have the fans on a 30 amp relay. Toggle switch to the relay, and let the relay take care of the amps. You have both fans running on the same power wire? If so, go with a 25 amp fuse, a 20 will pop with inital load.

thats great news as far as it running goes. hope you get the fans worked out. sounds very impressive, i wish i could say i helped more lol.

Bought a 30A circuit breaker. Should I run a wire from battery to breaker to toggle, to fan, to ground? Do I need to ground the fans and the toggle?

A 30 amp c/b does not really help. A 30 amp relay is what you need. You toggle the trip voltage to the relay, and that suppiles the current for the fans. With a C/B, you would have run the power through the toggle switch, right? That is not good, hence I always use relays.

Wow, this car has come a long way from what I remember it being. Nice job, the motor looks killer man!

-Craig

Thanks Craig.

I just replaced the 10A fuse with a 30A since the fans share that fuse and its worked so far. It died on me on the way home tonight though. I shifted second gear at about 1/2 throttle and went around sideways, the battery isnt bolted down yet so when the battery moved it pulled the fuel pump hot wire out of the crimp. I just stripped it back a little further and wrapped it around the bolt in the cable clamp to get home. Other than that I'm just fighting overheating problems. It stays at 210* for a while then creeps to 225*ish then next thing I know my 240* guage is pegged. But then it cools back down while I'm still driving. I dont think I can fit any more water in it lol. I got the fans working, the waterpump is turning standard rotation and its a stanard rotation pump as far as I know (stock '89 351w pump). Not sure what to do with it, just keep trying things I guess.

Edit: its got a 185* T-stat btw.

Thanks Craig.

I just replaced the 10A fuse with a 30A since the fans share that fuse and its worked so far. It died on me on the way home tonight though. I shifted second gear at about 1/2 throttle and went around sideways, the battery isnt bolted down yet so when the battery moved it pulled the fuel pump hot wire out of the crimp. I just stripped it back a little further and wrapped it around the bolt in the cable clamp to get home. Other than that I'm just fighting overheating problems. It stays at 210* for a while then creeps to 225*ish then next thing I know my 240* guage is pegged. But then it cools back down while I'm still driving. I dont think I can fit any more water in it lol. I got the fans working, the waterpump is turning standard rotation and its a stanard rotation pump as far as I know (stock '89 351w pump). Not sure what to do with it, just keep trying things I guess.

Edit: its got a 185* T-stat btw.
You may have already posted it, but what fans are you running? Are you running underdrives? And lastly, you are using an aftermarket gauge for the temp right?

You may have already posted it, but what fans are you running? Are you running underdrives? And lastly, you are using an aftermarket gauge for the temp right?

I have two 12" Mr.Gasket fans from Summit. My crank pulley has the 4.75" or whatever it is accessory UDP 6 rib grooves & the 8" 8 rib blower grooves. I have the stock pulley on the waterpump. Yes I have an Autometer mechanical water temp guage mounted in the intake right behind the T-stat.

I plan on getting a '93 Cobra waterpump pulley, pulling the temp sensor out of the intake and re-sealing it because I can hear a hissing noise that I think is coming from there. Also while I have the sensor out I'm gonna see it the intake will hold any more water. This weekend I'll wire the fans per Tony's suggestion if I get the time. I do have the power running thrue the switch right now and after about 1/2 hr of running the fans with the motor off to help it cool the switch got hot.

Do you have the fans wired for pushers or pullers? I assume you mounted them on the inside where the stock fan would be. You have to have them wired to be puller fans, is it possiable you wired them backwards?

Also, did you install the electric fans with the temp sensor and relay, so the fans stay on till the car is cool, or is it just switch activated?

:ninja edit: 3,000th post. lol

Those fans are rated right around 2200 cfm for the pair. You might need more fan power. 2 14 Flex will get you in the 3000 cfm ball park. What radiator are you using?

Also, make sure you do not have an air pocket in the radiator.

Those fans are rated right around 2200 cfm for the pair. You might need more fan power. 2 14 Flex will get you in the 3000 cfm ball park. What radiator are you using?
I think you hit it right here, 2200 cfm is a little low. I would want something of at least 2800 cfm if not more.

I would suggest finding a Taurus in a junkyard and running it's fan. I've seen them put out great amounts of air movement in friends cars. I also plan on installing one in my car sometime soon.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.php

These are about the only fans I can fit. Yes they are mounted and wired for pullers. These fans are about 3.5" thick, motor and all. I tryed a mark8 fan and it wouldnt fit even if I cut an inch off of it. I have a 2 core Summit brand all aluminum radiator 31"x19" I think.

I may have figured it out though. I'll pull the plugs tomarrow and see, but I think its the hg's. A friend of mine saw 2 very small puffs of white smoke come out from behind the car on the passenger side. Also for some reason I thought I had my timing locked out at 30* advanced, when I checked it last night it was more like 40*. So I possitively set it to 30* this time and revved it up to make sure the BTW was doing it's job. But when my friend saw the white smoke the timing was at about 40* and the temps where around 240* about a 1/8th mile from home on the way back from a short test ride. So, With that much timing and those high temps even just a little boost pressure could have popped the HG. But why was it overheating to start with?!?!?

From what I remember, too far adanced could make it run hotter, but I still think your problem lays with the cfm the fan is putting out. So you tried a Mark van, but what about a Taurus fan, might be a different size.

I would kick the timing to 20, and go up from there. At 40*, that is another reason why you were hot, like HiFlow mentioned.

Can you run push and pull fans at one time, that might be an option. I am telling you with just those two fans, your going to have problems.

They are 1200cfm each. I figured 2400cfm would be plenty with a big aluminum rad. Oh btw, this is all with the hood off the car too.

With the hood off and the timing the way it was would contribute to your over heating issue, but I am still worried about the fans not being big enough with as much power your car has.

With the hood off and the timing the way it was would contribute to your over heating issue, but I am still worried about the fans not being big enough with as much power your car has.
I agree.

Thanks guys. Lol Tony, you talk like I'm making some kinda major horsepower here. I guess since I've spent so much time over at TM.com my 600rwhp isnt that amazing anymore. Good power over there is 1000rw+ lol.

I started the car up today after filling the intake up with water via temp sensor hole, and topping off the radiator. The car took a little longer to get up to temp, then when it hit 185* it stayed there, crept up to 200* then back to 185* then back to 200* when sitting still in the driveway. All this was with no fans.

You might have just had an air pocket. I see you bought the biggest one Summit makes, good choice. If it works for you, I might buy the same for mine.

Your putting out more power than 99.999% of the cars on the road today! :D

Leave it to the English to make my head swell! :D :lol:

Leave it to the English to make my head swell! :D :lol:
He's only a temporary englishman. :biggrin:

He's only a temporary englishman. :biggrin:

Actually I am English, I have the passport to prove it:p :grinyes:

Well I got the LM-1 hooked up and went for a drive today. It still overheats, but I think I finally found out why. When I changed my upper radiator hose location from the passenger side endtank to the driver's side I didnt put a baffle in to redirect the coolant flow. So, my coolant is just flowing thrue the end tank with a minimal amout flowing through the whole radiator. So now I have to make a cut in the endtank and weld in an aluminum baffle so the coolant has to pass thrue the radiator to get from one hose to the next.

Also my idle AFR's are about 13.0, they go from 12.9-13.3. My cruise AFR's are as low as 11.4 I think and as high as 11.7. So its very rich. I should be getting some jets in the mail around tuesday though.

Now I just have to drain the radiator, pull it out of the car, make the cut, fine a peice of aluminum sheet, and have it TIG'd in place. Solder wouldn't hold it would it?

Better to use TIG, but the solder might have worked.

Any pics of the work? :D

I may try to solder it in place for now. We will just have to see. I'll get pics when I can borrow the camera again.