Boosted Blow Thru Build.

I pulled that stupid spoiler off of my car a while back. Pulled it out of the junk pile this afternoon and cut a peice out of it to use as a guage pannel to replace the stock guages. I'll post pics when its done.

Ford has some nice cars over there in fact their performance division is better than what SVT is.
http://www.fpv.com.au/

There are a lot of reasons why I want to go, and that is one of them. I also want an old Ford Falcon (MAD MAX car) :)

I pulled that stupid spoiler off of my car a while back. Pulled it out of the junk pile this afternoon and cut a peice out of it to use as a guage pannel to replace the stock guages. I'll post pics when its done.

Pics :disappoin :rolleyes: :p

There are a lot of reasons why I want to go, and that is one of them. I also want an old Ford Falcon (MAD MAX car) :)
I made it over there for a week back in 97. Never did get a chance to even see one. Those old Falcons were great cars as are the GTs, GT-p, Tyhoons, and so on. I really like how they upgrade the brakes on all 4 corners standard on some and at least offer it as an option on the rest. I mean WOW! 6 piston Brembo front and 4 piston rear not just the cheap 4 piston fronts and weak standard rear brakes like Ford North America does.

i like how there equivelent of a taurus over there has something like 300hp. i forget the details though. i believe it was a turbocharged inline 6? i wish i remembered where that article was...

That turbocharged inline 6 would be the Typhoon
http://www.fpv.com.au/index.asp?link_id=2.440

The GT-P runs a 5.4 that is somewhat similar to the 2000 Cobra R

http://www.exoticcarsite.com/pages/contents/fpv.htm

yep that was it, if i remember correctly it used to have a v8, but they went to the 6 when gas prices started climbing. but it doesnt matter cause they stuck a big ol turbo on it.

The FPV Typhoon and Tornado have only used the tubo I6. The GT, GT-P, Pursuit, and Super Pursuit use the V8 and are still being built. The Typhoon and Tornado are just somewhat new to the FPV line up.

hmm i wonder what car im thinkin of then, idk... but it doesnt matter, the point is that FPV is awesome

Pics :disappoin :rolleyes: :p

Got the template mostly made, just gotta cut the holes in it for the guages now. Should be later this week though. I was out of town all week and got stuck workin late today, nearly 12 hrs after 4.5 hrs of sleep. Maybe I'll be able to hold my eyes open a little longer tomarrow.

Well progress has been made on the custom guage pannel. I'll have to bring a grinder home from work tomarrow to finish fitting a couple guages. A 2" holesaw its the biggest bit I have to drill thrue fiberglass. So drilling a bunch of 2" holes to make one 5" hole and one 3 3/8" hole leaves a mess behind. Looks like I've been cutting flower pedals out of fiberglass. Should have a mock up pic tomarrow.

i guess thats a decent way to make the guage cluster the same color as the car... hope it looks good

Guage pannel finished.
Pics tomarrow, my mom has the memory carb for the digi camera with her and she will be home late.

Anyway if you want a mental pic I have 2x 2 1/16" guages mounted on the left in vertical order, my 3 3/8" tack in the center, a 5" speedo on the far right, with a small 5/8" shiftlight a little higher than the centerline between the tach & speedo. These are Ultralight guages. I'm have oil pressure and water temp mounted in the dash in the holes for the 2 1/16" guages. I'll have 2 1/16" volts, fuel level, & boost mounted in a tripple guage A-piller pod.

Cool, me wnat pics :)

I gotta pic, resized and everything. But still cant post if following GTStang's directions. Dunno whats goin on.

Anyone wanna post another pic for me? Thanks.

I'l try to get a better pic later. It looks a whole lot better mounted in the dash. I'll also have to wait untill I reinstall the dash before I cant mount the shift light, so I havent drilled that hole yet.

Well I got the motor in the car...now the 4" harwood hood wont fit. :banghead:

May have to go without the carb spacer and hope I dont run into any lean conditions. I really dont wanna have to buy a new intake. If I do it will be a Vic jr. That means I will have to buy a new distributor too. :crying:

Engine is too high? You're hitting the hood?

There are work arounds :)

Ya brand new Harwood and I dont wanna cut on it lol. Theres a guy on TM.com running a 351w & an air-gap blow thrue. I'm gonna see if he's had any probs with the dual plane. I'd like to run the carb spacer cause its drilled and tapped for a 3/8" hose barb, be great for my bypass valve. May have to drill/tap a deck plug in a runner to get a boost/vacuum source. We'll just have to see.

Hey Tony do you have any pics of your old car? I'm having some clearance issues lol. Cant use Mark 8 fan and CSI waterpump together, no room. But the main problem is my radiator and supercharger are at war with each other lol. The top radiator "port" where the upper hose goes to the radiator I think is too close to the blower/bracket to get the hose on and not hit the belt. The radiator part goes up to the blower pully. Also Did you run a manual waterpump or electric one? Looks like I'm gonna have problems routing my serp. belt with the electric waterpump. I dont want to have to run a remot mount pump and get -AN fittings TIG'd to the radiator. Any suggestions? Pics of the S-trim installed on a 5.0 car would help. Close-up pics would be great!

Thanks,
David

David,

Mine was not an electric, so any pics of my engine bay I do not think would help. I have heard of guys running into the same issues on the corral, have you checked there?

As for the belt and the rad port, I had a special hose that cleared it. I used some tie wraps as well, to make sure it did not hit. I will see if I can find some pics of it.

Tony

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/649StangEngine.JPG

Like this :)

Thanks man!

EDIT: A guy at TM.com posted a pic for me in my thread there of his 351w/s-trim BT fox. He had the same problem I'm having. He cut the port on an angle and had it TIG'd back on pointing torwards the drivers side. I may do that if I can find a willing welder. Thanks again!

Well now that I'm moving on with the project I have found some new problems lol. My crank pully wont line up with anything else. Some guys on the Corral said that I needed a "crank spacer" so we'll see what I can find out and go from there.

Shoes (issues) sux :) But at least your making some head way on the project.

I know its been a while since an update so here we go. Got the motor & trans in. Hope I dont have to lift the motor up to get the headers in. Front sway bar is just barely touching the front sump of the oil pan. Any ideas on a fix? Want to keep a front sway bar. Any other year cars that will fit but have a sway bar this sticks out towards the nose of the car more? Got the new trunk floor fabbed for the fuel cell, just gotta finish weld it now. May have to cut the bottom out of it to get the huge ass fuel cell in the trunk. I got the 20 gallon cell because it was the same price as the 15 gallon cell lol. Also I just got off the phone with Dave at Team Z. I ordered fully adjustable Strange struts/shocks from him as well as his adjustable upper control arms, lower control arms, and anti-roll bar. The suspension with coilovers is good for 7's in the 1320 (1/4). I may upgrade to coilovers next year. Several people at TM.com have said I'll may 600rwhp and with this suspension I'll run high 9's. So maybe all the overkill of parts and quality I've put into this car will pay off. Drive my car to work during the week and run 9's on the weekend with the same tune, that will kick ass. Well I'm goin to work on this beast. Chow!

20 gal, thats a lot of gas :)

Not sure about the sway bar. I know Steeda's are hollow, so you could modify that a little easier.

The stuff from Team Z got here today. It all looks great. I'll try to get some pics up as soon as I can borrow the camera again.

Well I got the rearend installed today. Uppers & lowers mounted. Had to grind off the relocation bracket on the lower control arm mounting perch. Southside Machine (who is now out of bussiness) sold traction bars for these cars that came with a weld on relocation bracket for increased grip I guess. I just know they where hell on torque boxes. I got the brackets ground off and both factory lower brackets where cracked by the southsides so I welded the cracks up. Everythings looks great, fits absolutely perfect, and is fully tuneable. Team Z makes a top notch product! I will be working on the car all day tomarrow so lets see how much more I can get done. I have yet to weld in the anti-roll bar. That will be one of the first things on the list tomarrow. I know the suspension will be there, now maybe I can make the power to run a high 9 @ 138 or so. May have to change my tires to trap nearly 140mph.

I've got a couple pics of the blower mounted on my motor if someone wants to post them for me. For some reason its not letting me upload pics.

Try going to photobucket and downloading your pics there. You can post the links here. I've had pretty good luck using them.

I'll give that a try.

Any updates?

Ya sorry, its been a while. I'll have to borrow my mom's camera again and show off a little. Lets see, motor and trans are in. Rearend is in with Team Z's anti-roll bar, adjustable lower control arms, and double adjustable upper control arms (great products). Also I have the Strange adjustable rear shocks installed. Planning on doing the front brakes and installing the Strange adjustable struts while I'm at it this weekend if it will quite raining. Last Wed. night I got the fuel cell installed finally. Its about a foot tall so I cut the trunk floor out, bought some sheet metal, and fabbed up a new floor that will allot the cell to sit about 5" down thrue the trunk. I mounted my A1000 fuel pump and filters to the side of the "box" I made for the fuel cell. This way it is gravity fed so I shouldnt have any starvation issues. I got my Aeromotive 13202 fuel pressure regulater mounted on the passenger side shock tower and the lines plumbed there. -8 lines to the bowls and -10 feed/return. I also got my shifter mocked up, changed filter & gasket on the trans, got my MT ET Streets mounted on the Draglites out back. All I have to do is set pinion angle, and get someone to adjust the anti-roll bar while I'm sitting in the car, fill the rearend up with new fluid and the back of the car will basically be done. Also I drilled the fuel cell holes out to 7/8" to accept the -10 fittings. I have to hook the return line to the cell, feed like to the pump outlet, and run a vent line to be finished with the cell. Hopefully next weekend or the week after I can get the car wired up. Then I will really be moving. Next weekend I'm gonna get a double hump tranny crossmember. Then all I will lack is fabbing the 3" pipe from blower to carb hat, run the speedo cable & throttle cable, buy front tires and have them mounted and balanced on my draglites for the front, buy some oil and make sure everything will prime good and all that, clean the carb since its been sitting for a while, figure out a way to run my upper rad hose (may end up going -16AN there), get the bracket for the serp belt spring tensioner, and find a 6 rib belt of correct length for accessories & a 8 rib belt of correct length for the blower. After all that I just have to put on the spark plug wires and really small stuff like that. Getting really close to finished for now! I think I may end up running cogs on the little S-trim though. I'll just have to fab up a belt guard to save my hood! I'll work on getting some pics maybe this weekend.

Gotta weld up the torque boxes too. I did get the subframe connectors installed though.

You have been pretty darn busy :)

Can't wait to see the pics, or a vid when she is up and running.

Gotta go move my fuel pressure regulator. It has to be 6" to the front of the bellhousing, per NHRA. So since I'm gonna be doing most of my racing at Thunder Valley, Bristol TN. I'll have to be per the rules to pass tech.Today I'll try to fill the rear up with oil, fill the trans up with fluid, fill motor with oil, make sure oil pump will prime, permanently mount my feed and return lines (they are tied up with zip-ties right now so I can make sure they are routed the best way). I'm sure I'll find a couple other things to do too, I may seal & paint my new trunk. Oh and do front brakes, gotta go buy rotors. I think I feel a 12 hr mustang shift coming up! Better get to work its nearly 10am, the day is halfway gone!

man this is crazy. its gonna be awesome when ur finished...

Just got back from spending another $100. Had to buy motor oil, torx bits for the front brakes, a magnetic angle finder to set pinion angle, brake rotors, some silicone to weatherproof the trunk around the fuel cell, a little hand pump thing to fill the rearend up with fluid, and I think thats it lol. Now I get to go work on the car till dark or a little after. I'll try to post pics tomarrow.

Sorry about the pics, havent been able to get the camera yet, but as soon as I can borrow it again I'll post more pics.

Sat. I put new brakes on the front, installed the new Strange adjustable struts, filled the rearend with oil, filled the tranny up with fluid, filled the motor up with oil, put on my new MSD plug wires, along with some other odds and end, just kinda cleaning things up. I decided to prime the oil pump since I had filled the motor up with oil (new pan takes 8 qts). Well I got a deep well 5/16" 1/4" drive socket, long 1/4" extension, and a drill. Started spinning the oil pump and it was just free spinning, I thought shit, something is wrong, the pump is bad or the pickup isnt down in the oil for some reason. The guy that did my machine work told me to put the pickup screen about a 1/2" off of the bottom of the pan. So I measured carefully several times to make sure I had it right. So I'm starting to get pissed cause my oil pump wont prime...then I remembered, oh ya! Fords spin counter clockwise...duh! So needless to say, I put the drill in reverse and as soon as it started to spin the oil pump, instant pressure, bout jerked the drill outta my hands lol. I dont think I'll have any oil pressure issues. So thats about all that happened saturday, doesnt sound like much I know but it was a busy day. Had to modify the struts to fit the 4cyl brakes. I'll upgrade to Strange disk brakes front & rear when I get my new rearend probably next year. Oh ya, I set my pinion angle too. -1.5*.

Well rain rain rain...havent been able to work on the car lately. Most of the time its dark when it quites raining so I havent had a chance to get any decent pics either. Maybe things will clear up this weekend.

Same issue here, but then again its England :)

When do the roads get dry in England? Or do they?

Yes, its dry a lot of the time. Actually we are in a drought, but its just been raining enough for me not to do my car work. I am building a custom wide body kit for the drag/street GTR, so I can fit some 315 on the rear. Body work takes a lot of time, to make it look right (good).

Ya..I hate body work.



and wouldnt ya know, its raining today......

You can sign into this site and see some of the work I have been doing,

http://forums.gtrforums.com/showthread.php?p=2160#post2160

Cool, looks like you know what your doing lol. There is no way in the world I could blend that in and make it look worth a shit. Good work.

Oh & BTW, I should have the camera this weekend so hopefully I can get some pics up.

Cool, looks like you know what your doing lol. There is no way in the world I could blend that in and make it look worth a shit. Good work.

Its pretty darn easy, but very time consuming. Making it look good is the art of body work. When I get done, that will tell if I know what I am doing or not:icon16:

I would post pics on here, like in the passed, but for some reason the site does not let me do it anymore:uhoh:

I just ordered some H&Ms 325/45 17 for my car, so they should look awesome with that wide body kit, along with some 1 1/2" spacers. When you do that, you just need to make sure you get a wheel with a little more back spacing so you don't put too much stress on your bearings. FYI :)

Yep, get that camera.

I'm just running the basic fox body setup for wheels. Draglites, 15x8 w/ 5.5" b/s. I'm gonna have to hammer on the wheel wells though. The 275/50/15's are kinda wide. Maybe I can mini-tub the car in the future.

I would post pics on here, like in the passed, but for some reason the site does not let me do it anymore:uhoh:

yeah i dont know whats up with that. it does the same thing to me. what most people do now is find a website made to let people put up pics, and then copy the location onto here inbetween and

i couldnt tell ya a good site tho cause i dont post pics up very often.

yeah i dont know whats up with that. it does the same thing to me. what most people do now is find a website made to let people put up pics, and then copy the location onto here inbetween and

i couldnt tell ya a good site tho cause i dont post pics up very often.

That is why I just post them on the GTRFORUMS page.

Here is my Wastegate installation.

http://forums.gtrforums.com/showthread.php?t=397

http://forums.gtrforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=334&d=1148809678

http://forums.gtrforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=333&d=1148809378

Cool. I built my "powerpipe" yesterday. Bought a 3" mandrel bend on a 4.5" radius. Two cuts and a couple tack welds I had the pipe plumbed from blower to carb hat. Then my holesaw broke when I was cutting the 1-3/4" hole for the bypass valve. So I had to cut the hole with a grinder and file. But I ended up getting that tacked on and ground a U in the bypass extension to allow better flow. I should be taking pics today and getting them resized this evening.

Your sure do weld faster than you can post pics :)

LOL. I may end up having to send the pics to someone else to post for me. Or I can just post them at TM.com and post the link here. I just have it tacked up for right now. No way I'm gonna weld the whole thing with a little 80 amp flux core craftsman welder. Thats just askin for leaks.

Gonna post pics up with a photobucket link. Let me know how it works.

Here you go Tony!

http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h212/boosted351/?sc=1&multi=11&addtype=local&media=image

Think the return line of the FPR will be ok the way I have it run in a loop? I'll have to cut on the strut tower & run a 90* into the strut tower to do away with it.

The pic of the side of the car (back of door and rear wheel) is how I'm thinking about running my exhaust out from under the car. Maybe paint the exposed pipe with flat black charcoal grill paint? Would that even work? Any opinions?

The pic of the fuel cell in the trunk showing the two 90* fittings are -10 on the left for return and -8 on the right for a vent thrue a drain hole.

Awesome!

Its looking very good!

When at all possable you should stay a way from 90s, at least on the pressure side of your fuel, return is OK. Is not a make or break thing, but it does help :)

I hate side exhaust for 2 reasons, it makes the car louder, and it creates more back pressure, once again, because you have to 90 it, but other than that, it sure does look cool :) I see no reason why you should have to paint it. I would look some cool exhaust tips on ebay, and install them :D

So that -10AN 180* bend feeding my fuel pressure regulator from the pump will kill me? Guess I'll have to reroute that area.

Well I got some more work done on the car today. Went to the parts store and bought 2" worth of washers lol. Put 4 thick washers on each front swaybar mounting bolts. That lowered the sway bar a 1/2" and its just enough to clear the oil pan now. Also got the inner fenders beat in so the rear tires wont rub. Should have posted a pic of the car from the rear. I'll try to remember to snap a pic from the rear next time I can borrow my mom's camera lol. Ran a couple vacuum lines as well. I'll be going to a welding shop sometime this week to get my power pipe tig'd and get the -16AN fitting welded into the radiator. Almost bought a YS blower and cog pullies but I think I'll see how the pucker factor is with this S-trim first. Roller motor, 12psi, fox body coupe, 6000rpms, I'll be happy with 10's this year lol.

"Yeah that should be o.k. since the line is -10. The rule is to make as less as bends/turns as possible though but you should be fine. http://www.turbomustangs.com/smf/Smileys/default/2thumbs.gif";

That is how I should have worded it :)

Got rained out again today. But I did get the radiator ready for welding yesterday. Cut off the "pipe" that the upper radiator hose goes on. Found a hole saw a little bogget than the thread for the -16AN fitting and drilled the hole for the upper hose on the driver's side. I was able to use the circle of aluminum that the holesaw cut out to plug the passenger side hole where the upper hose location was (like a factory Ford radiator). Then I took a file and filed off all of the anodized coating on the fitting so it can be TIG'd. Around $200 for an upper radiator hose and the parts needed for the mod. The thermostat housing is a little over $100 of that though. I'll post a pic after I get in welded and installed.