Auto-RX Desludging a 4.3L
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BlazerLT
03-24-2005, 12:47 PM
Yes, I am a semi-converted skeptic on Auto-Rx but after seeing the material it left in the filter of the V6 Dodge engine, I just had to try this stuff out.
This is the truck I will be testing it out on.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519698_22.jpg
Engine is a 4.3L with around 132,000miles on the odometer. The engine was rasied on a diet of Castrol GTX 5w30, Castrol Syntec 5w30 recently, and two oil changes with Esso XD3 Synthetic 0w30.
I am also going to be taking photos of the product and oil dipstick photos as I progress through the 1500 mile cleaning cycle.
Peeking down the long oil fill tube did allow me to se that the valve are sludged up pretty badly and there is a LOT of varnish.
Here are the photos:
Here are two of the three bottles I ordered. Frank didn't overcharge me for shipping which was really nice and the package arrived here in Canada in less than 5 business days. The one bottle is missing seeing it is in my truck now.
What does AutoRX look like, well, the photo above pretty well sums it up. It is extremely dark burgundy/red and at room temperature has the consistency of used motor oil if you needed a comparison. For some reason, I have to always smell things like this seeing I just LOVE to smell Castrol Syntec. :stretch:
It smells like a slightly chemical noted wine or a strong port.
The oil in my truck is Esso XD-3 0w30 synthetic and was recently changed about 300 miles ago so I didn't install a new oil filter before I poured the Auto-RX into the crankcase. The picture above is just after I pored it in and allowed it to idle for 10 minutes. To get the most of the Auto-RX out of the bottle, I recommend you warm up your truck and have the bottle laying on your front window defrost grill to get it really warm. It will practically pour out like water.
As you can see, the product does not darken the oil too much at all.
Here is a shot after 50 miles. I poured the product in, idled it for 10 minutes, took the first photo and then went for a nice long drive.
No difference was noted and the oil color has not changed nor was I expecting it to.
I will continue updating this thread as I go through the cleaning cycle with dipstick photos as I progress through the 1500mile cleaning cycle. I don't put a lot of miles on this truck and there is a lot of short trips hence why I am getting sludge buildup.
I will keep you posted.
This is the truck I will be testing it out on.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/519000-519999/519698_22.jpg
Engine is a 4.3L with around 132,000miles on the odometer. The engine was rasied on a diet of Castrol GTX 5w30, Castrol Syntec 5w30 recently, and two oil changes with Esso XD3 Synthetic 0w30.
I am also going to be taking photos of the product and oil dipstick photos as I progress through the 1500 mile cleaning cycle.
Peeking down the long oil fill tube did allow me to se that the valve are sludged up pretty badly and there is a LOT of varnish.
Here are the photos:
Here are two of the three bottles I ordered. Frank didn't overcharge me for shipping which was really nice and the package arrived here in Canada in less than 5 business days. The one bottle is missing seeing it is in my truck now.
What does AutoRX look like, well, the photo above pretty well sums it up. It is extremely dark burgundy/red and at room temperature has the consistency of used motor oil if you needed a comparison. For some reason, I have to always smell things like this seeing I just LOVE to smell Castrol Syntec. :stretch:
It smells like a slightly chemical noted wine or a strong port.
The oil in my truck is Esso XD-3 0w30 synthetic and was recently changed about 300 miles ago so I didn't install a new oil filter before I poured the Auto-RX into the crankcase. The picture above is just after I pored it in and allowed it to idle for 10 minutes. To get the most of the Auto-RX out of the bottle, I recommend you warm up your truck and have the bottle laying on your front window defrost grill to get it really warm. It will practically pour out like water.
As you can see, the product does not darken the oil too much at all.
Here is a shot after 50 miles. I poured the product in, idled it for 10 minutes, took the first photo and then went for a nice long drive.
No difference was noted and the oil color has not changed nor was I expecting it to.
I will continue updating this thread as I go through the cleaning cycle with dipstick photos as I progress through the 1500mile cleaning cycle. I don't put a lot of miles on this truck and there is a lot of short trips hence why I am getting sludge buildup.
I will keep you posted.
BlazerLT
03-24-2005, 12:49 PM
Ok, so I have the new 150mile photo I said was noticeably darker.
Here is the oil at 0 miles.
And here is the oil after 150 miles.
Pretty good difference over 150 miles. The product is safely cleaning the varnish and gunk out of the engine.
Here is the oil at 0 miles.
And here is the oil after 150 miles.
Pretty good difference over 150 miles. The product is safely cleaning the varnish and gunk out of the engine.
AlmostStock
03-24-2005, 03:03 PM
I never heard of this product before. I know you said you do short trips and live in a cold area which would contribute to the build up of sludge, but I always thought that frequent oil changes would prevent this from happening. Not so? I am very interested in the long term effects of this cleaner. (leaks, lifter clatter, or oil consumption?) Obviously you must have done some research or you wouldn't be using it. Thanks for the test.
BlazerLT
03-24-2005, 05:57 PM
I never heard of this product before. I know you said you do short trips and live in a cold area which would contribute to the build up of sludge, but I always thought that frequent oil changes would prevent this from happening. Not so? I am very interested in the long term effects of this cleaner. (leaks, lifter clatter, or oil consumption?) Obviously you must have done some research or you wouldn't be using it. Thanks for the test.
It is an excellent engine cleaner and does a much more thorough job that the quicky engine flushes.
I'll keep you updated as I progress through the 1500miles cleaning phase and the 3000 miles rinse phase.
It is an excellent engine cleaner and does a much more thorough job that the quicky engine flushes.
I'll keep you updated as I progress through the 1500miles cleaning phase and the 3000 miles rinse phase.
JParrott
03-29-2005, 01:25 PM
Definently keep us all posted. Over at BITOG forums I've been skeptical but impressed at the before and after results. If this works well for you I'll probably seek this out myself this summer as I close in on 100000 miles on my 2000 LS. I've also got a 2000 Grand Voyager SE with close to 100000 that I'll try it on too.
MY VEHICLE MAINTENANCE DEPENDS ON YOU BLAZER LT!!!! :iceslolan
MY VEHICLE MAINTENANCE DEPENDS ON YOU BLAZER LT!!!! :iceslolan
BlazerLT
03-29-2005, 01:38 PM
Definently keep us all posted. Over at BITOG forums I've been skeptical but impressed at the before and after results. If this works well for you I'll probably seek this out myself this summer as I close in on 100000 miles on my 2000 LS. I've also got a 2000 Grand Voyager SE with close to 100000 that I'll try it on too.
MY VEHICLE MAINTENANCE DEPENDS ON YOU BLAZER LT!!!! :iceslolan
I will keep you posted.
Although I have no problem with the quickie flushes, I wanted to take a more gentle and thorough approach to getting the sludge out of my engine.
I will tell you one thing, the engine sure is getting alot quieter.
MY VEHICLE MAINTENANCE DEPENDS ON YOU BLAZER LT!!!! :iceslolan
I will keep you posted.
Although I have no problem with the quickie flushes, I wanted to take a more gentle and thorough approach to getting the sludge out of my engine.
I will tell you one thing, the engine sure is getting alot quieter.
muzzy1maniac
03-29-2005, 10:18 PM
BlazerLT - where did you get your Auto-RX??
BlazerLT
03-29-2005, 10:31 PM
Ordered it directly off of Auto-rx.com.
Become a forum member there and you will get a discount.
Become a forum member there and you will get a discount.
muzzy1maniac
03-29-2005, 10:42 PM
I was just visiting the site - thanks. What's your opinion on their statements about synthetic oil and will you continue using it after your treatment?
BlazerLT
03-30-2005, 12:05 AM
You can use synthetic for the 1500mile cleaning phase, but you have to use dino for the 3000 mile rinse phase.
I am running synthetic with the cleaning phase right now but I will change to Castrol GTX 5w30 for the rinse phase.
After this, I will go back to synthetic.
I am running synthetic with the cleaning phase right now but I will change to Castrol GTX 5w30 for the rinse phase.
After this, I will go back to synthetic.
blazee
04-18-2005, 09:17 AM
update?
BlazerLT
04-18-2005, 08:13 PM
update?
750 miles on cleaning phase.
Engine developed a lifter tap from 500 to 700miles miles on the odometer.
Total oil in the system for my 1995 should be 4.5 quarts ONLY. I was almost a quart overfilled.
Turns out I shouldn't have overfilled the crankcase like that seeing the crank was slapping the oil a little much and causing air to be sucked into the oil system.
This air is hard to get out and takes several miles to get out of the system.
Since then, the engine is back to normal.
No startup tap at all. Cold starts are just as quiet as hot starts. This is impressive.
Took a look through the oil fill tube with a flashlight and I could not believe how much cleaner it was. It is not perfectly clean, but it is a lot better than it was at the start which was dark and gritty and sludged up.
Oil has only gotten slightly darker than the last shot you see above. But I know the oil filter is starting to get to its limit. Oil pressure is pretty high for the 65f temperatures we are having here. This is normal as all the crap in the system is filtered out through the oil filter as it should be.
I will keep you posted as I move closer to the 1500 mile limit which should be soon as I will be undergoing a long 16 hour road trip within the next month.
On another note, I also added Auto-RX to my GF's 1994 Cavalier VL with a 2.2L.
This car is showing much better improvement over my truck with this treatment. The engine is so quiet that I could not even BELIEVE it when I started it up after 1000 miles with the treatment.
This stuff works wonders on higher mileage inline 4 and 6 cylinder engines.
I will keep you posted.
750 miles on cleaning phase.
Engine developed a lifter tap from 500 to 700miles miles on the odometer.
Total oil in the system for my 1995 should be 4.5 quarts ONLY. I was almost a quart overfilled.
Turns out I shouldn't have overfilled the crankcase like that seeing the crank was slapping the oil a little much and causing air to be sucked into the oil system.
This air is hard to get out and takes several miles to get out of the system.
Since then, the engine is back to normal.
No startup tap at all. Cold starts are just as quiet as hot starts. This is impressive.
Took a look through the oil fill tube with a flashlight and I could not believe how much cleaner it was. It is not perfectly clean, but it is a lot better than it was at the start which was dark and gritty and sludged up.
Oil has only gotten slightly darker than the last shot you see above. But I know the oil filter is starting to get to its limit. Oil pressure is pretty high for the 65f temperatures we are having here. This is normal as all the crap in the system is filtered out through the oil filter as it should be.
I will keep you posted as I move closer to the 1500 mile limit which should be soon as I will be undergoing a long 16 hour road trip within the next month.
On another note, I also added Auto-RX to my GF's 1994 Cavalier VL with a 2.2L.
This car is showing much better improvement over my truck with this treatment. The engine is so quiet that I could not even BELIEVE it when I started it up after 1000 miles with the treatment.
This stuff works wonders on higher mileage inline 4 and 6 cylinder engines.
I will keep you posted.
blazer94
04-19-2005, 09:30 AM
That is very interesting.. The guys down at the Dealership said pretty much the same thing to me, and said that the only real crap comes from running cleaners thru our gas and oil systems. On the subject of fuel injector cleaning, one guy said if you use a good quality gas w/ detergents, you should not have to have injectors cleaned, but went on to say that since a lot of people buy cheap gas ( ? ) and than run products like STP etc thru the tanks, a lot of crap can build up. He also recommended a flush like the snap on tool flush that hooks up to the fuel rails in a FI engine, and said once a year or so (depending on driving habits) was probably plenty, if that.
blazer94
04-19-2005, 11:10 AM
I would also like to add, after reading the back and forth between Blazer LT and TonyMazz, ( another thread (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=396043)That I would agree that this fourm is a good place to all these different opinions, as we learn more by being exposed to more info. The project here that Blazer LT is running makes me think, but when I changed my oil last time ( Mobil 1 syn, 5200K miles, ) it looked as dirty as the conventional I ran. I choose to run full syn because a) I drive mostly short 5-10 drives about 10 times a day, b) it gets kinda cold here in Chicago in the winter, especially with the NW winds, c) I want the protction that the syn gives my motor for reasons a&b. Since switching, ( I did do a flush when I changed to syn) I have a lower op temp, my oil pressure runs a little lower @idle and under acceleration (idle, approx. 30-35psi, accel/cruise approx45-50psi) and motor Seems a little quieter. Just my opinion.
BlazerLT
04-19-2005, 12:33 PM
Here is the question I asked on another forum and was answered by GM engineer on BOBSTHEOILGUY forum....
-----------------------------
I would like you to address the various concoctions like system flushes, Auto-Rx, Fuel Power, and all these "fix-in-a-bottle" additives that we on this forum seem to gravitate to.
Do you recommend them ? Or simply put, is the new API/SM/GF-4 oil's sufficient to keep today's engines running without all the extra bottles of 'stuff' ?
I'd offer to say that most on this forum keep their cars running in a well maintained form, but have to ask are we really only moving our lubrication from 99.1% perfect (before flush) to 99.5% (after flush)...so why go through all that nonsense......right ?
While we have rinse phases, cleaning phases etc...are just fooling ourselves and if we say dumped in fresh new oil and say did a 1500 OCI that we'd get the same results......
Your thoughts.......
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bbobynski writes:
Auto-Rx....????......LOL LOL LOL LOL
Personally, I have yet to ever see any of the snake oil additives and crap do anything other than relocate your money to another persons pocket. If someone is talking it up they must be selling it.
Nope, not selling it, IN FACT paid a lot more to have it shipped to Canada. Ask him if he is even used it, or is he just stated blind opinion?
Probably so.....
ANYONE who has taken apart a modern engine run on modern oils knows that the engines look brand new inside. What on earth would be the need for flushes or rinses or additives or ????? ..... other than to make money for someone.
How old are these engines? What year and model?
No real info = pure opinion.
The best possible "cleaner" for your engine is fresh, clean SG4/SM engine oil. It has all the "cleaners" and detergents necessary to keep the engine perfectly clean for hundreds of thousands of miles. Anyone that tells you about the horrors of sludge or the need for cleaning or flushing is selling cleaner or flushes and has never had an engine apart.
GF4 oils have only been out for the last year. So now you are saying that if you do an oil change now, it will clear up the 10 years worth of varnish??? MAybe after another 50,000 miles it will.
Talk about misguided information. GF4 oils were only recently released and you are saying that they will clean an engine with 150,000 miles on it.
That is completely wrong.
I get to review core engines at teardown for one of our re-man facilities on occasion and it is a real eye-opener.....as to just how clean most of the engines are. There are always some horror stories where the engine was totally neglected or the owner was running SA "virgin" motor oil from the Dollar Giant store but, by and large, they are perfectly clean inside. I also get to see a lot of field engines in teardown reviews and there is no problem with sludge and buildup in any of the engines I see.
How old are these engines? What year and model?
No real info = pure opinion.
I know that there are specific problems in the industry with certain engines that may have had a difficiency in the PCV system and the crankcase evacuation that led to sludge buildup due to excessive water vapor/blowby on coldstarts. If that is the case one might make a case for a crank case "flush" I suppose....but by the time you knew about it the damage was probably already done. And, in any case, some long trip driving with fresh oil would clean it out anyway.
So he warrents the use of a kerosene flush, but not the use of Auto-RX?
Ummmmmmmmm....ok.......yeesh
For most all the engines on the road, especially if it is a GM engine with an open PCV system that always pulls fresh air, you have little or nothing to worry about deposits and cleaners and additives are a waste of money, not needed and certainly not recommended.
Pure opinion with no evidence at all. How about the lot that have working PCV systems and they have varnish and sludge?
Imagine....we managed to develop a 440+ HP supercharged 4.4 liter Northstar engine that absolutely kicks *** and never used any oil additives or Auto-Rx......LOL
Imagine...... How does using Auto-RX for cleaning an older engine have anything to do with building a 440+HP engine???!!! That's right, it has no bearing.
What kind of argument is that?
Everyone, go to here and look at the people using Auto-RX:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=5
Not only are people using it, but they are happy using it too.
Here is a story of a documented Auto-RX test.
http://www.rms13.com/
GET INFORMED AND DON'T BE BLINDED BY THE PARANOID.
-----------------------------
I would like you to address the various concoctions like system flushes, Auto-Rx, Fuel Power, and all these "fix-in-a-bottle" additives that we on this forum seem to gravitate to.
Do you recommend them ? Or simply put, is the new API/SM/GF-4 oil's sufficient to keep today's engines running without all the extra bottles of 'stuff' ?
I'd offer to say that most on this forum keep their cars running in a well maintained form, but have to ask are we really only moving our lubrication from 99.1% perfect (before flush) to 99.5% (after flush)...so why go through all that nonsense......right ?
While we have rinse phases, cleaning phases etc...are just fooling ourselves and if we say dumped in fresh new oil and say did a 1500 OCI that we'd get the same results......
Your thoughts.......
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
bbobynski writes:
Auto-Rx....????......LOL LOL LOL LOL
Personally, I have yet to ever see any of the snake oil additives and crap do anything other than relocate your money to another persons pocket. If someone is talking it up they must be selling it.
Nope, not selling it, IN FACT paid a lot more to have it shipped to Canada. Ask him if he is even used it, or is he just stated blind opinion?
Probably so.....
ANYONE who has taken apart a modern engine run on modern oils knows that the engines look brand new inside. What on earth would be the need for flushes or rinses or additives or ????? ..... other than to make money for someone.
How old are these engines? What year and model?
No real info = pure opinion.
The best possible "cleaner" for your engine is fresh, clean SG4/SM engine oil. It has all the "cleaners" and detergents necessary to keep the engine perfectly clean for hundreds of thousands of miles. Anyone that tells you about the horrors of sludge or the need for cleaning or flushing is selling cleaner or flushes and has never had an engine apart.
GF4 oils have only been out for the last year. So now you are saying that if you do an oil change now, it will clear up the 10 years worth of varnish??? MAybe after another 50,000 miles it will.
Talk about misguided information. GF4 oils were only recently released and you are saying that they will clean an engine with 150,000 miles on it.
That is completely wrong.
I get to review core engines at teardown for one of our re-man facilities on occasion and it is a real eye-opener.....as to just how clean most of the engines are. There are always some horror stories where the engine was totally neglected or the owner was running SA "virgin" motor oil from the Dollar Giant store but, by and large, they are perfectly clean inside. I also get to see a lot of field engines in teardown reviews and there is no problem with sludge and buildup in any of the engines I see.
How old are these engines? What year and model?
No real info = pure opinion.
I know that there are specific problems in the industry with certain engines that may have had a difficiency in the PCV system and the crankcase evacuation that led to sludge buildup due to excessive water vapor/blowby on coldstarts. If that is the case one might make a case for a crank case "flush" I suppose....but by the time you knew about it the damage was probably already done. And, in any case, some long trip driving with fresh oil would clean it out anyway.
So he warrents the use of a kerosene flush, but not the use of Auto-RX?
Ummmmmmmmm....ok.......yeesh
For most all the engines on the road, especially if it is a GM engine with an open PCV system that always pulls fresh air, you have little or nothing to worry about deposits and cleaners and additives are a waste of money, not needed and certainly not recommended.
Pure opinion with no evidence at all. How about the lot that have working PCV systems and they have varnish and sludge?
Imagine....we managed to develop a 440+ HP supercharged 4.4 liter Northstar engine that absolutely kicks *** and never used any oil additives or Auto-Rx......LOL
Imagine...... How does using Auto-RX for cleaning an older engine have anything to do with building a 440+HP engine???!!! That's right, it has no bearing.
What kind of argument is that?
Everyone, go to here and look at the people using Auto-RX:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=5
Not only are people using it, but they are happy using it too.
Here is a story of a documented Auto-RX test.
http://www.rms13.com/
GET INFORMED AND DON'T BE BLINDED BY THE PARANOID.
JParrott
04-19-2005, 01:17 PM
BlazerLT
Remember......you're a "semi-converted skeptic to Auto-Rx"......
And why the hostility............Jesus, nobody's calling you a dumbass for trying Auto-Rx or stating your opinion on the subject. How about not being so personal and a little more objective here? :2cents:
I drive approximately 1 mile to work and 1 mile back every day. If anyone needs to know what's gonna help prolong engine life when it comes to additives or oil changes, I'm the perfect candidate. Good job and keep the info coming. :biggrin:
Remember......you're a "semi-converted skeptic to Auto-Rx"......
And why the hostility............Jesus, nobody's calling you a dumbass for trying Auto-Rx or stating your opinion on the subject. How about not being so personal and a little more objective here? :2cents:
I drive approximately 1 mile to work and 1 mile back every day. If anyone needs to know what's gonna help prolong engine life when it comes to additives or oil changes, I'm the perfect candidate. Good job and keep the info coming. :biggrin:
BlazerLT
04-19-2005, 02:12 PM
BlazerLT
Remember......you're a "semi-converted skeptic to Auto-Rx"......
And why the hostility............Jesus, nobody's calling you a dumbass for trying Auto-Rx or stating your opinion on the subject. How about not being so personal and a little more objective here? :2cents:
I drive approximately 1 mile to work and 1 mile back every day. If anyone needs to know what's gonna help prolong engine life when it comes to additives or oil changes, I'm the perfect candidate. Good job and keep the info coming. :biggrin:
I am not being hostile, it is the fact that Tony is pushing that post in a couple of threads and I take it personally when people talk to me like I am some sort of idiot being scammed.
I know a scam when I see one and I did over 40 hours worth of research on this and he states that I am basically an idiot that doesn't know a snake oil product when I see one.
The results are in the photos and I can't wait to cut open the oil filter.
Remember......you're a "semi-converted skeptic to Auto-Rx"......
And why the hostility............Jesus, nobody's calling you a dumbass for trying Auto-Rx or stating your opinion on the subject. How about not being so personal and a little more objective here? :2cents:
I drive approximately 1 mile to work and 1 mile back every day. If anyone needs to know what's gonna help prolong engine life when it comes to additives or oil changes, I'm the perfect candidate. Good job and keep the info coming. :biggrin:
I am not being hostile, it is the fact that Tony is pushing that post in a couple of threads and I take it personally when people talk to me like I am some sort of idiot being scammed.
I know a scam when I see one and I did over 40 hours worth of research on this and he states that I am basically an idiot that doesn't know a snake oil product when I see one.
The results are in the photos and I can't wait to cut open the oil filter.
Turbocpe
04-19-2005, 02:30 PM
BlazerLT, I did not see the answer, but have you owned this vehicle since new? If not, at what mileage did you take over the vehicle?
How long do you go in between oil changes? How often has your engine been out of tune?
How long do you go in between oil changes? How often has your engine been out of tune?
BlazerLT
04-19-2005, 03:17 PM
BlazerLT, I did not see the answer, but have you owned this vehicle since new? If not, at what mileage did you take over the vehicle?
How long do you go in between oil changes? How often has your engine been out of tune?
I have not owned the vehicle since new, I bought the car from my family with 115,000 miles on it. They bought it with 22,000miles on it.
All specified maintanence and oil changes were done by the GM dealer until I took it over. Oil was changed by the GM dealer specified intervals which I think is 5000kms.
The only thing that has gone wrong with the truck is the CPI injector failure.
Other than that, the truck has been maintained properly with a tuneups being done BEFORE GM has specified.
The truck has a definite varnish and sludge problem as noted when peering down my oil fill cap and noting the grit, grime and varnish seen and noted.
I saw only dark brown deposits throughout the viewing area and black grime and grit.
I just took a look down the oil fill cap today and the varnish has been greatly reduced and I am starting to see bright clean metal starting to show up through the varnish. The grit and grime and completely gone.
I am only half way through my cleaning phase and with the temperature warming up around here, I could definitely forcast more cleaning coming about through the higher oil tempertures allowing the Auto-RX to dissolve even more of the varnish out of my system.
This coupled with just how much the engine has quieted down is really impressive.
As I said earlier, I can't wait to see how much sludge is in the oil filter when I remove it in the coming months.
How long do you go in between oil changes? How often has your engine been out of tune?
I have not owned the vehicle since new, I bought the car from my family with 115,000 miles on it. They bought it with 22,000miles on it.
All specified maintanence and oil changes were done by the GM dealer until I took it over. Oil was changed by the GM dealer specified intervals which I think is 5000kms.
The only thing that has gone wrong with the truck is the CPI injector failure.
Other than that, the truck has been maintained properly with a tuneups being done BEFORE GM has specified.
The truck has a definite varnish and sludge problem as noted when peering down my oil fill cap and noting the grit, grime and varnish seen and noted.
I saw only dark brown deposits throughout the viewing area and black grime and grit.
I just took a look down the oil fill cap today and the varnish has been greatly reduced and I am starting to see bright clean metal starting to show up through the varnish. The grit and grime and completely gone.
I am only half way through my cleaning phase and with the temperature warming up around here, I could definitely forcast more cleaning coming about through the higher oil tempertures allowing the Auto-RX to dissolve even more of the varnish out of my system.
This coupled with just how much the engine has quieted down is really impressive.
As I said earlier, I can't wait to see how much sludge is in the oil filter when I remove it in the coming months.
blazee
04-19-2005, 05:05 PM
How many miles does it really have on it?
A post you made about 7 months ago says 132,000
A post in January says 137,000
Another post in January says 125,000
This post says 132,000
Why does your post on the OilGuy site say that you get 15MPG and a post on here say you get 19MPG?
Why does you profile on the OilGuy site say your occupation is a Computer Hardware Site Admin and on this site you say you are a fluid power engineer?
I would be interested in using this stuff, but would like to know for sure that the results are honestly represented.
A post you made about 7 months ago says 132,000
A post in January says 137,000
Another post in January says 125,000
This post says 132,000
Why does your post on the OilGuy site say that you get 15MPG and a post on here say you get 19MPG?
Why does you profile on the OilGuy site say your occupation is a Computer Hardware Site Admin and on this site you say you are a fluid power engineer?
I would be interested in using this stuff, but would like to know for sure that the results are honestly represented.
BlazerLT
04-19-2005, 07:30 PM
How many miles does it really have on it?
137000 miles
A post you made about 7 months ago says 132,000
A post in January says 137,000
Another post in January says 125,000
This post says 132,000
People make mistakes. It has around 220,000kms on it. But realistically, that really doesn't matter. In haste, I made some small mistkes with the conversion.
Why does your post on the OilGuy site say that you get 15MPG and a post on here say you get 19MPG?
Because my fuel consumption is suffering due to the cold temperatures in the winter.
Why does you profile on the OilGuy site say your occupation is a Computer Hardware Site Admin and on this site you say you are a fluid power engineer?
Because I have training in both. I have undergone training and certification for fluid power systems and I own a computer hardware website. www.tweaknews.net
I also have a two college diplomas and a degree in geology.
Again, this has no bearing on this, I have a lot of education. Sorry about that.
I would be interested in using this stuff, but would like to know for sure that the results are honestly represented.
You calling me a liar?, because the questions you are posing is sure as hell giving me that impression. For christ sakes, as a moderator, do you think all the help I have given is from a LIAR?
What the hell do I have to gain from this? Am I selling it? Am I "profiting" from this? Do I have one single interest in this other than being an automotive enthusiest?
One word.....NO
I am doing this to show everyone that there is a engine cleaner alternative out there and I am being nice enough to test and show you the results WITH NO COST TO YOU.
I am a little INSULTED that you are posing these questions as some sort of way to show that I am being dishonest or something.
I'm pissed off, if you guys are not interested, I might as well delete this thread.
Just give me the word.
137000 miles
A post you made about 7 months ago says 132,000
A post in January says 137,000
Another post in January says 125,000
This post says 132,000
People make mistakes. It has around 220,000kms on it. But realistically, that really doesn't matter. In haste, I made some small mistkes with the conversion.
Why does your post on the OilGuy site say that you get 15MPG and a post on here say you get 19MPG?
Because my fuel consumption is suffering due to the cold temperatures in the winter.
Why does you profile on the OilGuy site say your occupation is a Computer Hardware Site Admin and on this site you say you are a fluid power engineer?
Because I have training in both. I have undergone training and certification for fluid power systems and I own a computer hardware website. www.tweaknews.net
I also have a two college diplomas and a degree in geology.
Again, this has no bearing on this, I have a lot of education. Sorry about that.
I would be interested in using this stuff, but would like to know for sure that the results are honestly represented.
You calling me a liar?, because the questions you are posing is sure as hell giving me that impression. For christ sakes, as a moderator, do you think all the help I have given is from a LIAR?
What the hell do I have to gain from this? Am I selling it? Am I "profiting" from this? Do I have one single interest in this other than being an automotive enthusiest?
One word.....NO
I am doing this to show everyone that there is a engine cleaner alternative out there and I am being nice enough to test and show you the results WITH NO COST TO YOU.
I am a little INSULTED that you are posing these questions as some sort of way to show that I am being dishonest or something.
I'm pissed off, if you guys are not interested, I might as well delete this thread.
Just give me the word.
Turbocpe
04-19-2005, 07:53 PM
BlazerLT, I think they were valid questions. Seeing conflicting data (especially one's occupation), wouldn't you wonder? This is the Internet, not hard to lie about who you are. There are sick people out there, who knows who you are among? Being a moderator, I'm sure you've ran across people that aren't honest or cause trouble.
Yes, you are a moderator. But honestly, moderators aren't special people. There are good and bad moderators (and you know this due to the recent moderator issue on this website a few weeks ago). I'm sure the Administrators didn't interview you or know you personally. They took a chance, based on your past history, which can and has led to issues. So who is to say that you and the rest of the moderators aren't angels?
Everyone here gives there time by helping and posting.
I think they were valid questions, and it appears you apparently have given explanations.
Why so harsh for valid questions? You read into his questions. I just wish the attitude/ego/whatever wasn't harsh, at times.
Again, I can't blame someone for getting suspicious over conflicting data. Being an Administrator for a large club myself, I've seen people's tricks. Unfortunately, it's part of the Internet.
Yes, you are a moderator. But honestly, moderators aren't special people. There are good and bad moderators (and you know this due to the recent moderator issue on this website a few weeks ago). I'm sure the Administrators didn't interview you or know you personally. They took a chance, based on your past history, which can and has led to issues. So who is to say that you and the rest of the moderators aren't angels?
Everyone here gives there time by helping and posting.
I think they were valid questions, and it appears you apparently have given explanations.
Why so harsh for valid questions? You read into his questions. I just wish the attitude/ego/whatever wasn't harsh, at times.
Again, I can't blame someone for getting suspicious over conflicting data. Being an Administrator for a large club myself, I've seen people's tricks. Unfortunately, it's part of the Internet.
Turbocpe
04-19-2005, 07:59 PM
By the way, thanks for the information. I asked about your history with this vehicle, because to me, the amount of sludge didn't seem quite normal. I've had engines almost at 200K without sludge. But then again, cold, short trips, can understandably be a part of the issue.
The other reason I ask is, because as you know propane engines burn much cleaner, and they don't have the dirty oil issue. Which made me wonder about any tune up issues.
The other reason I ask is, because as you know propane engines burn much cleaner, and they don't have the dirty oil issue. Which made me wonder about any tune up issues.
BlazerLT
04-19-2005, 08:07 PM
BlazerLT, I think they were valid questions. Seeing conflicting data (especially one's occupation), wouldn't you wonder? This is the Internet, not hard to lie about who you are. There are sick people out there, who knows who you are among? Being a moderator, I'm sure you've ran across people that aren't honest or cause trouble.
Yes, you are a moderator. But honestly, moderators aren't special people. There are good and bad moderators (and you know this due to the recent moderator issue on this website a few weeks ago). I'm sure the Administrators didn't interview you or know you personally. They took a chance, based on your past history, which can and has led to issues. So who is to say that you and the rest of the moderators aren't angels?
Everyone here gives there time by helping and posting.
I think they were valid questions, and it appears you apparently have given explanations.
Why so harsh for valid questions? You read into his questions. I just wish the attitude/ego/whatever wasn't harsh, at times.
Again, I can't blame someone for getting suspicious over conflicting data. Being an Administrator for a large club myself, I've seen people's tricks. Unfortunately, it's part of the Internet.
No, these are questions posing the thought that I am some sort of liar and I am insulted with that.
I come here for no other reasons BUT to help you guys and this is how you thank me for it?
You question my information and integrity?
And you say I shouldn't get upset about this seeing I was literally slapped across the face out of no where?
Yes, you are a moderator. But honestly, moderators aren't special people. There are good and bad moderators (and you know this due to the recent moderator issue on this website a few weeks ago). I'm sure the Administrators didn't interview you or know you personally. They took a chance, based on your past history, which can and has led to issues. So who is to say that you and the rest of the moderators aren't angels?
Everyone here gives there time by helping and posting.
I think they were valid questions, and it appears you apparently have given explanations.
Why so harsh for valid questions? You read into his questions. I just wish the attitude/ego/whatever wasn't harsh, at times.
Again, I can't blame someone for getting suspicious over conflicting data. Being an Administrator for a large club myself, I've seen people's tricks. Unfortunately, it's part of the Internet.
No, these are questions posing the thought that I am some sort of liar and I am insulted with that.
I come here for no other reasons BUT to help you guys and this is how you thank me for it?
You question my information and integrity?
And you say I shouldn't get upset about this seeing I was literally slapped across the face out of no where?
Turbocpe
04-19-2005, 08:36 PM
No, these are questions posing the thought that I am some sort of liar and I am insulted with that.
BlazerLT, they were valid, you may be upset, but they were valid concerns, seeing conflicting data.
You can take it anyway you wish, because no one can change that. But you can't tell us that a normal person wouldn't wonder about information that didn't match up. Again, this is the Internet. You are a moderator, but that doesn't mean that you are special or perfect. Sorry to say that, but you know it is the truth.
You are upset because YOU was questioned. That's understandable. But they were legitimate questions.
You yourself tell people not to put their believe in one person's "opinion" or take it as the gospel. How you can ask everyone to just accept something that appears to be "funny" under normal human instincts (mismatched information) without any question? Seems like it would be conflicting your own advise. You can't honestly expect everyone to just believe everything that comes from you without question or discussion, to learn.
And don't get me wrong, the above is not in regard to the oil study, but your issue with someone asking legitimate questions.
Let's keep this on topic. Legitimate questions were asked, you provided answers. End of story?
BlazerLT, they were valid, you may be upset, but they were valid concerns, seeing conflicting data.
You can take it anyway you wish, because no one can change that. But you can't tell us that a normal person wouldn't wonder about information that didn't match up. Again, this is the Internet. You are a moderator, but that doesn't mean that you are special or perfect. Sorry to say that, but you know it is the truth.
You are upset because YOU was questioned. That's understandable. But they were legitimate questions.
You yourself tell people not to put their believe in one person's "opinion" or take it as the gospel. How you can ask everyone to just accept something that appears to be "funny" under normal human instincts (mismatched information) without any question? Seems like it would be conflicting your own advise. You can't honestly expect everyone to just believe everything that comes from you without question or discussion, to learn.
And don't get me wrong, the above is not in regard to the oil study, but your issue with someone asking legitimate questions.
Let's keep this on topic. Legitimate questions were asked, you provided answers. End of story?
BlazerLT
04-19-2005, 08:52 PM
Yea, after over 7000 posts and helping hundreds of people, they should wonder about me shouldn't they.
It is still an insult. Someone going through al my posts trying to find something to question is someone trying to insult my integrity here.
And stop telling me to calm down, if I am insulted, I will say I am.
Since when does my day job and my education have something to do with testing an oil additive?
I AM NOT A GOD DAMN LIAR AND CALLING ME OUT ON SMALL POINTS AS MY EDUCATION AND MY TRUCK MILEAGE BECAUSE I AM TESTING A PRODUCT FOR YOU GUYS IS AN INSULT TO MY INTEGRITY.
With that being said, let's move back onto the topic of Auto-RX and my testing and I don't want to hear another thing about my integrity or I will remove the thread and consider this a test for my own purposes and education and I will not share it with others.
It is just as simple as that.
I am serious, one word said about anything other than Auto-RX will have this thread being removed.
If you got anything other than Auto-RX, PM me.
It is still an insult. Someone going through al my posts trying to find something to question is someone trying to insult my integrity here.
And stop telling me to calm down, if I am insulted, I will say I am.
Since when does my day job and my education have something to do with testing an oil additive?
I AM NOT A GOD DAMN LIAR AND CALLING ME OUT ON SMALL POINTS AS MY EDUCATION AND MY TRUCK MILEAGE BECAUSE I AM TESTING A PRODUCT FOR YOU GUYS IS AN INSULT TO MY INTEGRITY.
With that being said, let's move back onto the topic of Auto-RX and my testing and I don't want to hear another thing about my integrity or I will remove the thread and consider this a test for my own purposes and education and I will not share it with others.
It is just as simple as that.
I am serious, one word said about anything other than Auto-RX will have this thread being removed.
If you got anything other than Auto-RX, PM me.
BlazinUP
04-19-2005, 11:34 PM
i was wondering.....
doesnt oil get darker as it gets run threw an engine that already has a good amount of miles on it....
its gold for a bit.....then gets darker....from what iv seen..........
am i wrong in thinking that the darkening of the oil...is believed to be from the use of that rx stuff?
and not just the normal thing that happens to oil running threw a used engine?
doesnt oil get darker as it gets run threw an engine that already has a good amount of miles on it....
its gold for a bit.....then gets darker....from what iv seen..........
am i wrong in thinking that the darkening of the oil...is believed to be from the use of that rx stuff?
and not just the normal thing that happens to oil running threw a used engine?
Turbocpe
04-19-2005, 11:51 PM
It is a common misconception that an oil's color is an indication of how dirty it is. This is absolutely NOT TRUE. The color of an oil does not have any bearing on its lubrication ability. Most oil and especially diesel engine oil will turn black in the first few hours of operation due to contaminates generated by the combustion process and soot particles.
Common article on the oil related websites.
Common article on the oil related websites.
chris15706
04-20-2005, 12:09 AM
Give BlazerLT a break! Hes supposed to be a smart ass every once in a while. Hes from Canada. lol. I am a help desk tech and i deal with 350 people every day. I have learned to be patient with people even when they sound like they're being a smart ass. Not everyone lives the same way or has the same ideas and personalities. Take the good advice that BlazerLT gives most of the time. Not everyone is perfect. But seriously this forum is very useful and threads like this help out alot. I like to see the outcome with threads like this so i can remember in the future when my vehicle has high miles on it. Im glad BlazerLT is useing his vehicle for the guine pig. Sounds like its working good so far.
BlazerLT
04-20-2005, 12:17 AM
i was wondering.....
doesnt oil get darker as it gets run threw an engine that already has a good amount of miles on it....
its gold for a bit.....then gets darker....from what iv seen..........
am i wrong in thinking that the darkening of the oil...is believed to be from the use of that rx stuff?
and not just the normal thing that happens to oil running threw a used engine?
Nope, my oil never got that dark after 150 miles.
doesnt oil get darker as it gets run threw an engine that already has a good amount of miles on it....
its gold for a bit.....then gets darker....from what iv seen..........
am i wrong in thinking that the darkening of the oil...is believed to be from the use of that rx stuff?
and not just the normal thing that happens to oil running threw a used engine?
Nope, my oil never got that dark after 150 miles.
BlazerLT
04-20-2005, 12:19 AM
Give BlazerLT a break! Hes supposed to be a smart ass every once in a while. Hes from Canada. lol. I am a help desk tech and i deal with 350 people every day. I have learned to be patient with people even when they sound like they're being a smart ass. Not everyone lives the same way or has the same ideas and personalities. Take the good advice that BlazerLT gives most of the time. Not everyone is perfect. But seriously this forum is very useful and threads like this help out alot. I like to see the outcome with threads like this so i can remember in the future when my vehicle has high miles on it. Im glad BlazerLT is useing his vehicle for the guine pig. Sounds like its working good so far.
It is working.
And thank you for noticing that I am testing this for you guys as well. :)
It is working.
And thank you for noticing that I am testing this for you guys as well. :)
DINO55
04-20-2005, 01:24 AM
Hi Guy's
I had to reply on this one.
My first post, I have read over a thousand threads in this forum since January 2005, I feel like I know alot of you guy's out there, I have taken (you guy's) advice on so many things for my 1998 Blazer, It's great to see so many of you knock heads together and help out so many people find and fix their vehicle's, There are many stand up people in this forum that all deserve some recognition, one of them is BLAZER LT. Dude, my hat's off to you for a job well done on all the post and reply's you do. You don't know how many people you've helped out along the way (I'm one of them) in the 7000 post's you've done. Your research into this product has been nothing short of awsome, I'm looking forward to seeing the filter and the final results. Thanks to all you guy's for some great reading.
DINO55
1998 Blazer 4x2
Burbank, Illinois...
NEVER ARGUE WITH A FOOL, PEOPLE MIGHT NOT KNOW WHO'S WHO...
I had to reply on this one.
My first post, I have read over a thousand threads in this forum since January 2005, I feel like I know alot of you guy's out there, I have taken (you guy's) advice on so many things for my 1998 Blazer, It's great to see so many of you knock heads together and help out so many people find and fix their vehicle's, There are many stand up people in this forum that all deserve some recognition, one of them is BLAZER LT. Dude, my hat's off to you for a job well done on all the post and reply's you do. You don't know how many people you've helped out along the way (I'm one of them) in the 7000 post's you've done. Your research into this product has been nothing short of awsome, I'm looking forward to seeing the filter and the final results. Thanks to all you guy's for some great reading.
DINO55
1998 Blazer 4x2
Burbank, Illinois...
NEVER ARGUE WITH A FOOL, PEOPLE MIGHT NOT KNOW WHO'S WHO...
Turbocpe
04-20-2005, 01:57 AM
So posts that support BlazerLT are OK, but any post that questions anything from BlazerLT, is not? Very reveling and interesting. I thought we all were grown up here. We're told not to take one's opinion as the gospel (the GM engineer for example), but we supposed to do so here?
I don't have a problem with the product or the testing.
As far as this product, I'm not sure I understand. Doesn't sludge turns into clumps, which will be scattered throughout the engine? Due to oil pump screens and filters, you'll never get that stuff completely out. So I'm not sure I understand? I would think the best thing would be to regularly change your oil (isn't that a common cause of sludge?) and change your driving habits. BlazerLT, didn't you say the 3000 mile oil change is a gimick? Perhaps that is part of your sludge issue?
Again, I don't have a problem with the product testing. I do have a problem when someone asks legitimate human questions, and people break out the attitude and get defensive. It's not right to expect people to not question one's opinion or advise just because you say so. It's also not to only allow positive posts, while you threaten action to anyone who may not agree, or may question advise from certain people. It seems extremely one sided and closed minded. Aren't we here to learn and help?
BlazerLT, that is great that you are helping out and providing this for people to see. However, don't threaten action just because some question or disagree with you. That makes you look bad, and you're not being fair to the people here. People are allowed to have their own opinion and provide feedback and question what is provided. You can't ask people not to question or disagree with you. It doesn't work that way.
Thanks.
I don't have a problem with the product or the testing.
As far as this product, I'm not sure I understand. Doesn't sludge turns into clumps, which will be scattered throughout the engine? Due to oil pump screens and filters, you'll never get that stuff completely out. So I'm not sure I understand? I would think the best thing would be to regularly change your oil (isn't that a common cause of sludge?) and change your driving habits. BlazerLT, didn't you say the 3000 mile oil change is a gimick? Perhaps that is part of your sludge issue?
Again, I don't have a problem with the product testing. I do have a problem when someone asks legitimate human questions, and people break out the attitude and get defensive. It's not right to expect people to not question one's opinion or advise just because you say so. It's also not to only allow positive posts, while you threaten action to anyone who may not agree, or may question advise from certain people. It seems extremely one sided and closed minded. Aren't we here to learn and help?
BlazerLT, that is great that you are helping out and providing this for people to see. However, don't threaten action just because some question or disagree with you. That makes you look bad, and you're not being fair to the people here. People are allowed to have their own opinion and provide feedback and question what is provided. You can't ask people not to question or disagree with you. It doesn't work that way.
Thanks.
BlazerLT
04-20-2005, 03:41 AM
Thanks to all for noticing my unselfish documentation of this process. I really appreciate it. I am only trying to help.
To all waiting for the results, I will post complete photos of the filter and if the filter material has any sludge in it.
Just remember, this cleaning cycle is only 1500 miles, then after that I will have to undergo a rinse cycle with ordinary conventional oil for 3000 miles.
The rinse phase is supposed to really darken the oil quickly but I will leave that up to the upcoming photos as I progress through it.
There is no way that my oil should be dark at 1500miles. My engine as tested today if running efficiently and here is the thread with proof.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=397962
Hydrocarbons are exceptionally low which is one of the contributing factors to oil getting dirty.
To all waiting for the results, I will post complete photos of the filter and if the filter material has any sludge in it.
Just remember, this cleaning cycle is only 1500 miles, then after that I will have to undergo a rinse cycle with ordinary conventional oil for 3000 miles.
The rinse phase is supposed to really darken the oil quickly but I will leave that up to the upcoming photos as I progress through it.
There is no way that my oil should be dark at 1500miles. My engine as tested today if running efficiently and here is the thread with proof.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=397962
Hydrocarbons are exceptionally low which is one of the contributing factors to oil getting dirty.
DINO55
04-20-2005, 03:55 AM
So posts that support BlazerLT are OK, but any post that questions anything from BlazerLT, is not? Very reveling and interesting. I thought we all were grown up here. We're told not to take one's opinion as the gospel (the GM engineer for example), but we supposed to do so here?
I don't have a problem with the product or the testing.
As far as this product, I'm not sure I understand. Doesn't sludge turns into clumps, which will be scattered throughout the engine? Due to oil pump screens and filters, you'll never get that stuff completely out. So I'm not sure I understand? I would think the best thing would be to regularly change your oil (isn't that a common cause of sludge?) and change your driving habits. BlazerLT, didn't you say the 3000 mile oil change is a gimick? Perhaps that is part of your sludge issue?
Again, I don't have a problem with the product testing. I do have a problem when someone asks legitimate human questions, and people break out the attitude and get defensive. It's not right to expect people to not question one's opinion or advise just because you say so. It's also not to only allow positive posts, while you threaten action to anyone who may not agree, or may question advise from certain people. It seems extremely one sided and closed minded. Aren't we here to learn and help?
BlazerLT, that is great that you are helping out and providing this for people to see. However, don't threaten action just because some question or disagree with you. That makes you look bad, and you're not being fair to the people here. People are allowed to have their own opinion and provide feedback and question what is provided. You can't ask people not to question or disagree with you. It doesn't work that way.
Thanks.
I don't just support Blazer LT, If you read my post correctly, you would have seen the part's that said.
" I have taken (you guy's) advice on so many things for my 1998 Blazer,"
"There are many stand up people in this forum that all deserve some recognition"
I don't just support Blazer LT, I support all of you guy's.
Blazer LT just happens to be one of many, In answer to your question, Sludge does not turn into clumps and scatter through an engine, Over time, and extreme heat, it builds up on almost everything inside your engine. Some Oil's will keep it cleaner better then others, but ALL oils will leave deposit's behind, Now here's a guy that's doing his own research, photographing it, and updating his results for all of us to gain some insight, and were questioning his integrity because some Engineer from GM say's it's snake oil HA HA HA, who the hell is this guy anyway, I have heard about "Seafoam" many times on this fourm, never seen any pictures, just words, and I myself am not too sure about a product that SHOULD NOT be run in an engine longer then 500 miles, will I use it even though some people swear up and down by it, Nope, That's my Opinion. Will I run out and get Auto-RX, Not sure yet. the jury is still out on it.
I thought this whole fourm thing was about letting all of us know what works in and on our trucks, am I wrong for thinking like this
I don't have a problem with the product or the testing.
As far as this product, I'm not sure I understand. Doesn't sludge turns into clumps, which will be scattered throughout the engine? Due to oil pump screens and filters, you'll never get that stuff completely out. So I'm not sure I understand? I would think the best thing would be to regularly change your oil (isn't that a common cause of sludge?) and change your driving habits. BlazerLT, didn't you say the 3000 mile oil change is a gimick? Perhaps that is part of your sludge issue?
Again, I don't have a problem with the product testing. I do have a problem when someone asks legitimate human questions, and people break out the attitude and get defensive. It's not right to expect people to not question one's opinion or advise just because you say so. It's also not to only allow positive posts, while you threaten action to anyone who may not agree, or may question advise from certain people. It seems extremely one sided and closed minded. Aren't we here to learn and help?
BlazerLT, that is great that you are helping out and providing this for people to see. However, don't threaten action just because some question or disagree with you. That makes you look bad, and you're not being fair to the people here. People are allowed to have their own opinion and provide feedback and question what is provided. You can't ask people not to question or disagree with you. It doesn't work that way.
Thanks.
I don't just support Blazer LT, If you read my post correctly, you would have seen the part's that said.
" I have taken (you guy's) advice on so many things for my 1998 Blazer,"
"There are many stand up people in this forum that all deserve some recognition"
I don't just support Blazer LT, I support all of you guy's.
Blazer LT just happens to be one of many, In answer to your question, Sludge does not turn into clumps and scatter through an engine, Over time, and extreme heat, it builds up on almost everything inside your engine. Some Oil's will keep it cleaner better then others, but ALL oils will leave deposit's behind, Now here's a guy that's doing his own research, photographing it, and updating his results for all of us to gain some insight, and were questioning his integrity because some Engineer from GM say's it's snake oil HA HA HA, who the hell is this guy anyway, I have heard about "Seafoam" many times on this fourm, never seen any pictures, just words, and I myself am not too sure about a product that SHOULD NOT be run in an engine longer then 500 miles, will I use it even though some people swear up and down by it, Nope, That's my Opinion. Will I run out and get Auto-RX, Not sure yet. the jury is still out on it.
I thought this whole fourm thing was about letting all of us know what works in and on our trucks, am I wrong for thinking like this
blazes9395
04-20-2005, 04:09 AM
So posts that support BlazerLT are OK, but any post that questions anything from BlazerLT, is not? Very reveling and interesting. I thought we all were grown up here. We're told not to take one's opinion as the gospel (the GM engineer for example), but we supposed to do so here?
I am not siding here at all, but I do agree with this statement. These forums are here for sharing information, they are here to agree with each other and to disagree with each other - thats how we each learn, and then make our own decisions. Personally I have been watching this post about the use of this Auto Rx stuff. It sounds like GM Oil Supplement to me....or something along those lines. It does, or claims to do everything the supplement does. I know the Gm oil supplement works because I have used it. The best part of all is that I can go to my dealship down the road pick it up for $6.50CAN and I trust it more because its endorsed by GM themselves. Does anybody know what are the active ingredients in this Auto-Rx stuff?
I am not siding here at all, but I do agree with this statement. These forums are here for sharing information, they are here to agree with each other and to disagree with each other - thats how we each learn, and then make our own decisions. Personally I have been watching this post about the use of this Auto Rx stuff. It sounds like GM Oil Supplement to me....or something along those lines. It does, or claims to do everything the supplement does. I know the Gm oil supplement works because I have used it. The best part of all is that I can go to my dealship down the road pick it up for $6.50CAN and I trust it more because its endorsed by GM themselves. Does anybody know what are the active ingredients in this Auto-Rx stuff?
lou S.
04-20-2005, 08:32 AM
Good luck with the testing LT. I'll have to try and get a hold of some of that stuff and run it through the testing here at work and report my findings.
blazee
04-20-2005, 10:08 AM
137000 miles
People make mistakes. It has around 220,000kms on it. But realistically, that really doesn't matter. In haste, I made some small mistkes with the conversion. That is understandable, your previous post in January that was near 137,000, was posted in kms when I converted it....it came to little less than 137,000, which is right in line with what you are saying now. The others were posted in miles, so they could have easily been mistakes.
Because my fuel consumption is suffering due to the cold temperatures in the winter. Both mileages were said to be winter highway miles.
Because I have training in both. I have undergone training and certification for fluid power systems and I own a computer hardware website. www.tweaknews.net (http://www.tweaknews.net)
I also have a two college diplomas and a degree in geology.
Again, this has no bearing on this, I have a lot of education. Sorry about that. I checked the records and that is indeed your website, but the "Fluid power engineer" was the one in question. (only because of the way it was brought to everyone's attention) Your education doesn't have any bearing on this, no one is questioning your intelligence.
You calling me a liar?, because the questions you are posing is sure as hell giving me that impression. For christ sakes, as a moderator, do you think all the help I have given is from a LIAR? I am simply asking questions about some of your previous posts, if it sounds like I am calling you dishonest...then that must mean that you agree that these would sound suspicious to people who don't know you.
What the hell do I have to gain from this? Am I selling it? Am I "profiting" from this? Do I have one single interest in this other than being an automotive enthusiest?
One word.....NO
I am doing this to show everyone that there is a engine cleaner alternative out there and I am being nice enough to test and show you the results WITH NO COST TO YOU.
I am a little INSULTED that you are posing these questions as some sort of way to show that I am being dishonest or something.
I'm pissed off, if you guys are not interested, I might as well delete this thread.
Just give me the word. Please don't delete this thread, myself as well as many others are very interested in your results. We do really appreciate you taking the time to document everything. My only concern was, that after the turn that this thread has taken, the results may not be represented accurately. In the past it would seem that some of your facts change to fit the situation. It has been mentioned in this thread that you believe your intelligence has been questioned for attempting to use auto-rx. I for one do not think that you are an idiot for doing this, I appreciate it greatly. Even if the results are bad, I would still want to know and would not question your intelligence for trying it. I can tell that you are very proud and do not like to be wrong, (nobody does) just know that this test is to show the results that you achieve using auto-rx and has nothing to do with you being right or wrong. If you don't get positive results, it doesn't mean that you were wrong for trying it, it means that the product doesn't work and you have saved us all some money.
I am not trying to start an argument or anything. I will consider everything dropped after this. I was just addressing some concerns that I had.
And I repeat: please don't delete this thread, there are a lot of people wanting to know the results.
People make mistakes. It has around 220,000kms on it. But realistically, that really doesn't matter. In haste, I made some small mistkes with the conversion. That is understandable, your previous post in January that was near 137,000, was posted in kms when I converted it....it came to little less than 137,000, which is right in line with what you are saying now. The others were posted in miles, so they could have easily been mistakes.
Because my fuel consumption is suffering due to the cold temperatures in the winter. Both mileages were said to be winter highway miles.
Because I have training in both. I have undergone training and certification for fluid power systems and I own a computer hardware website. www.tweaknews.net (http://www.tweaknews.net)
I also have a two college diplomas and a degree in geology.
Again, this has no bearing on this, I have a lot of education. Sorry about that. I checked the records and that is indeed your website, but the "Fluid power engineer" was the one in question. (only because of the way it was brought to everyone's attention) Your education doesn't have any bearing on this, no one is questioning your intelligence.
You calling me a liar?, because the questions you are posing is sure as hell giving me that impression. For christ sakes, as a moderator, do you think all the help I have given is from a LIAR? I am simply asking questions about some of your previous posts, if it sounds like I am calling you dishonest...then that must mean that you agree that these would sound suspicious to people who don't know you.
What the hell do I have to gain from this? Am I selling it? Am I "profiting" from this? Do I have one single interest in this other than being an automotive enthusiest?
One word.....NO
I am doing this to show everyone that there is a engine cleaner alternative out there and I am being nice enough to test and show you the results WITH NO COST TO YOU.
I am a little INSULTED that you are posing these questions as some sort of way to show that I am being dishonest or something.
I'm pissed off, if you guys are not interested, I might as well delete this thread.
Just give me the word. Please don't delete this thread, myself as well as many others are very interested in your results. We do really appreciate you taking the time to document everything. My only concern was, that after the turn that this thread has taken, the results may not be represented accurately. In the past it would seem that some of your facts change to fit the situation. It has been mentioned in this thread that you believe your intelligence has been questioned for attempting to use auto-rx. I for one do not think that you are an idiot for doing this, I appreciate it greatly. Even if the results are bad, I would still want to know and would not question your intelligence for trying it. I can tell that you are very proud and do not like to be wrong, (nobody does) just know that this test is to show the results that you achieve using auto-rx and has nothing to do with you being right or wrong. If you don't get positive results, it doesn't mean that you were wrong for trying it, it means that the product doesn't work and you have saved us all some money.
I am not trying to start an argument or anything. I will consider everything dropped after this. I was just addressing some concerns that I had.
And I repeat: please don't delete this thread, there are a lot of people wanting to know the results.
Turbocpe
04-20-2005, 11:03 AM
Sludge does not turn into clumps and scatter through an engine, Over time, and extreme heat, it builds up on almost everything inside your engine. Some Oil's will keep it cleaner better then others, but ALL oils will leave deposit's behind
The reason why I ask is, because I have a 350 that had not been taken care of well by the previous owner. It is a fact that oil changes weren't done reguarly. When I removed the intake manifold for a intake gasket change, there was oil sludge clumps all over the block and around the pushrods. This engine also has lower than normal oil pressure.
This is not the first time that I've seen "clumps" inside an engine (that weren't my own engine), with questionable service history.
I didn't mean that the "clumps" would scatter throughout the engine as in it is pushed in circulation, I meant as in formed throughout the engine, due to lack of oil changes, etc.
However, I have 2 (actually 3 now that I think about it) engines that are almost at 200K miles, and they have no oil sludge or clumps, and the engines had been properly maintained.
That's why I didn't think oil sludge is normal, unless there is lack of oil changes, or perhaps driving habits that contribute to it.
But my other point is, how will you ever get that stuff out of the engine, that can be inside the oil pump screen, galleries, etc.? I don't see how you can.
The reason why I ask is, because I have a 350 that had not been taken care of well by the previous owner. It is a fact that oil changes weren't done reguarly. When I removed the intake manifold for a intake gasket change, there was oil sludge clumps all over the block and around the pushrods. This engine also has lower than normal oil pressure.
This is not the first time that I've seen "clumps" inside an engine (that weren't my own engine), with questionable service history.
I didn't mean that the "clumps" would scatter throughout the engine as in it is pushed in circulation, I meant as in formed throughout the engine, due to lack of oil changes, etc.
However, I have 2 (actually 3 now that I think about it) engines that are almost at 200K miles, and they have no oil sludge or clumps, and the engines had been properly maintained.
That's why I didn't think oil sludge is normal, unless there is lack of oil changes, or perhaps driving habits that contribute to it.
But my other point is, how will you ever get that stuff out of the engine, that can be inside the oil pump screen, galleries, etc.? I don't see how you can.
BlazerLT
04-20-2005, 03:31 PM
The Auto-RX puts it into suspension and allows it to travel to the oil filter where it is filtered out.
Clumps will eventually dissolve and also be transported.
This is what you should expect after the cleaning. Mind you, not as bad as this guys car, it was sludged bad.
http://www.auto-rx.com/pics/sludge4.jpg
Clumps will eventually dissolve and also be transported.
This is what you should expect after the cleaning. Mind you, not as bad as this guys car, it was sludged bad.
http://www.auto-rx.com/pics/sludge4.jpg
DINO55
04-20-2005, 09:04 PM
Geez, That thing looks nasty, I can't wait to see the results of the rinse cycle. I use mobil 1 in my blazer and at the 1500 mile mark the oil is still gold on the dip stick. It will be intresting to see your end result Blazer LT. Thank's for the update...
BlazerLT
04-21-2005, 06:19 PM
BlazerLT I sure hope your's is not that dirty !!! That looks like coffee grounds....bet yours will be alot cleaner..... :biggrin:
I certainly hope so.
I certainly hope so.
silverblazer
04-21-2005, 10:13 PM
This thread has got my mind going. I was never into the whole cleaner stuff but I did try this stuff called SEA FOAM. After a couple of hundread miles I changed the oil in my truck after using it and the slude pluged the pan drain and the filter was full. I dont think I wanna use it on my blazer but i might. This Auto RX sounds like a good deal too.If anybody has any input on that SEA FOAM let me know.
BlazerLT
04-21-2005, 11:52 PM
This thread has got my mind going. I was never into the whole cleaner stuff but I did try this stuff called SEA FOAM. After a couple of hundread miles I changed the oil in my truck after using it and the slude pluged the pan drain and the filter was full. I dont think I wanna use it on my blazer but i might. This Auto RX sounds like a good deal too.If anybody has any input on that SEA FOAM let me know.
Seafoam is MUCH more harsh and you are only supposed to drive an engine for 500 miles MAX with it in the crankcase.
It is a strong solvent.
Seafoam is MUCH more harsh and you are only supposed to drive an engine for 500 miles MAX with it in the crankcase.
It is a strong solvent.
wolfox
04-22-2005, 11:12 AM
Opinions are like assholes. Everyone's got one, and they all stink. You have to use your heads and experience to pull together a solution that works for you, in your situation. The stuff that GM tech went off on sounds great in the lab. Can most likely be tested in an independant lab and found to be true...
But use your head for something other than a hat rack for a moment and think...
That GM tech's answers were all based on LABORATORY TESTS in a clean, closed environment. Now, how many of us drive in a laboratory day in and day out? Raise your hands...I'll wait for the count to come in...
That's right. NONE OF US. You want good hard facts about GM engines, oiling and maintenance? Talk to your local mechanic buddy. GM's going to hand you information and facts that though may be 100% true, will be skewed just ever so slightly. And do you know why? They have a vested interest in selling you a vehicle every 5~10 years, right after the warranty peters out. That being said:
There is NEVER going to be a perfect, one-shot cure all additive or regimen of chemicals and oils. But again, using your head you can figure out the tricks to keep things clean, quiet and efficient. One of these measures is to just read your damn manual and swap fluids when it says to. Every once in a while, like every two years - flush the engine and cooling system despite what the manual says. And by performing regular maintenance by yourself, you can tell when the little problems are just starting before they become big ones.
BlazerLT, I appreciate the documentation and your willingness to put up with this bullshit. I know that if I was in your position and *posting* the things that you are doing, and some other similar experiences and advice, my ass would be in the sling right next to yours. Oh, expect photos of my ghetto '95 VIN "W" CPI cold air intake this weekend. Hopefully work and weather will hold up a bit better. ;) Keep fighting the good fight gentlemen.
But use your head for something other than a hat rack for a moment and think...
That GM tech's answers were all based on LABORATORY TESTS in a clean, closed environment. Now, how many of us drive in a laboratory day in and day out? Raise your hands...I'll wait for the count to come in...
That's right. NONE OF US. You want good hard facts about GM engines, oiling and maintenance? Talk to your local mechanic buddy. GM's going to hand you information and facts that though may be 100% true, will be skewed just ever so slightly. And do you know why? They have a vested interest in selling you a vehicle every 5~10 years, right after the warranty peters out. That being said:
There is NEVER going to be a perfect, one-shot cure all additive or regimen of chemicals and oils. But again, using your head you can figure out the tricks to keep things clean, quiet and efficient. One of these measures is to just read your damn manual and swap fluids when it says to. Every once in a while, like every two years - flush the engine and cooling system despite what the manual says. And by performing regular maintenance by yourself, you can tell when the little problems are just starting before they become big ones.
BlazerLT, I appreciate the documentation and your willingness to put up with this bullshit. I know that if I was in your position and *posting* the things that you are doing, and some other similar experiences and advice, my ass would be in the sling right next to yours. Oh, expect photos of my ghetto '95 VIN "W" CPI cold air intake this weekend. Hopefully work and weather will hold up a bit better. ;) Keep fighting the good fight gentlemen.
lou S.
04-22-2005, 11:26 AM
Wolfox, I agree about the GM tech. I put my 2 cents worth in the other thread. Many performance claims are made based on bench tests under IDEAL conditions, everyone needs to remember that. (I'ld like to ask the tech then why do large companies (ex.paper mills, steel mills, etc.) utilize synthetics in gearboxes, hyd. systems if there is no real benefit----I could show him otherwise----some of these environments are as bad if not worse than an internal comb. engine). Good luck with the cold air intake. Keep us posted LT.
jsgold
04-22-2005, 11:42 AM
Does anyone know if the Auto RX is available here in the US? If it works OK for BLT i would like to try it as well. My old Blazer does not need it but my son's 91 Explorer is in need of a good cleaning and my wife's Intrepid (2.7) had a sludge issue I have been trying to clean with all synthetic oils with some success, but want better results. Sludge in 2.7's is the last thing you would want with their high failure rate. have always been leary of "quick fixes" like seafoam. I have not seen the RX locally, but if it does the job I will use it if I can get it. Please keep us posted on the results.
blazer94
04-22-2005, 11:49 AM
Does anyone know if the Auto RX is available here in the US? If it works OK for BLT i would like to try it as well. My old Blazer does not need it but my son's 91 Explorer is in need of a good cleaning and my wife's Intrepid (2.7) had a sludge issue I have been trying to clean with all synthetic oils with some success, but want better results. Sludge in 2.7's is the last thing you would want with their high failure rate. have always been leary of "quick fixes" like seafoam. I have not seen the RX locally, but if it does the job I will use it if I can get it. Please keep us posted on the results.
http://auto-rx.com/
http://auto-rx.com/
Turbocpe
04-22-2005, 01:41 PM
Opinions are like assholes. Everyone's got one, and they all stink. You have to use your heads and experience to pull together a solution that works for you, in your situation. The stuff that GM tech went off on sounds great in the lab. Can most likely be tested in an independant lab and found to be true...
But use your head for something other than a hat rack for a moment and think...
That GM tech's answers were all based on LABORATORY TESTS in a clean, closed environment. Now, how many of us drive in a laboratory day in and day out? Raise your hands...I'll wait for the count to come in...
That's right. NONE OF US. You want good hard facts about GM engines, oiling and maintenance? Talk to your local mechanic buddy. GM's going to hand you information and facts that though may be 100% true, will be skewed just ever so slightly. And do you know why? They have a vested interest in selling you a vehicle every 5~10 years, right after the warranty peters out. That being said:
There is NEVER going to be a perfect, one-shot cure all additive or regimen of chemicals and oils. But again, using your head you can figure out the tricks to keep things clean, quiet and efficient. One of these measures is to just read your damn manual and swap fluids when it says to. Every once in a while, like every two years - flush the engine and cooling system despite what the manual says. And by performing regular maintenance by yourself, you can tell when the little problems are just starting before they become big ones.
BlazerLT, I appreciate the documentation and your willingness to put up with this bullshit. I know that if I was in your position and *posting* the things that you are doing, and some other similar experiences and advice, my ass would be in the sling right next to yours. Oh, expect photos of my ghetto '95 VIN "W" CPI cold air intake this weekend. Hopefully work and weather will hold up a bit better. ;) Keep fighting the good fight gentlemen.
I hope that you're not implying that people who take interest in this GM engineer are simply using their heads as hat racks.
Those people get paid quite well to have degrees and knowledge that many of us (no offense) don't have. They also have much more insider knowledge that isn't available. Not only has he apparently been there for a few decades, but he doesn't appear to live in a lab. Because he has a hobby with a motorcycle, one would think that he isn't just a lab guy, but also likely has "real world" experience on the same level as others claim.
I agree with the lab results that differ from the outside "real world" as far as cleaness. But in addition, those lab tests (and as was mentioned) often work the engine at a high RPM and load that wouldn't normal be something that real world engines would set (not sustained).
I guess I respect people who have that type of knowledge who work daily with the information that they do. I also respect people who don't come off as an ass. Though he didn't have the best opinoin of some products, I didn't see any personal slams towards anyone who differs in belief (from what I read).
While GM (like others) likely do have an interest in selling a customer another vehicle, if GM really was set to "sabotage" into making their vehicles to only last a few years, do you think that would be good for repeat business? Not like anyone doesn't have a choice with non-GM vehicles.
I do appreciate BlazerLT's study, because the debate and information that followed was also interesting and useful.
But use your head for something other than a hat rack for a moment and think...
That GM tech's answers were all based on LABORATORY TESTS in a clean, closed environment. Now, how many of us drive in a laboratory day in and day out? Raise your hands...I'll wait for the count to come in...
That's right. NONE OF US. You want good hard facts about GM engines, oiling and maintenance? Talk to your local mechanic buddy. GM's going to hand you information and facts that though may be 100% true, will be skewed just ever so slightly. And do you know why? They have a vested interest in selling you a vehicle every 5~10 years, right after the warranty peters out. That being said:
There is NEVER going to be a perfect, one-shot cure all additive or regimen of chemicals and oils. But again, using your head you can figure out the tricks to keep things clean, quiet and efficient. One of these measures is to just read your damn manual and swap fluids when it says to. Every once in a while, like every two years - flush the engine and cooling system despite what the manual says. And by performing regular maintenance by yourself, you can tell when the little problems are just starting before they become big ones.
BlazerLT, I appreciate the documentation and your willingness to put up with this bullshit. I know that if I was in your position and *posting* the things that you are doing, and some other similar experiences and advice, my ass would be in the sling right next to yours. Oh, expect photos of my ghetto '95 VIN "W" CPI cold air intake this weekend. Hopefully work and weather will hold up a bit better. ;) Keep fighting the good fight gentlemen.
I hope that you're not implying that people who take interest in this GM engineer are simply using their heads as hat racks.
Those people get paid quite well to have degrees and knowledge that many of us (no offense) don't have. They also have much more insider knowledge that isn't available. Not only has he apparently been there for a few decades, but he doesn't appear to live in a lab. Because he has a hobby with a motorcycle, one would think that he isn't just a lab guy, but also likely has "real world" experience on the same level as others claim.
I agree with the lab results that differ from the outside "real world" as far as cleaness. But in addition, those lab tests (and as was mentioned) often work the engine at a high RPM and load that wouldn't normal be something that real world engines would set (not sustained).
I guess I respect people who have that type of knowledge who work daily with the information that they do. I also respect people who don't come off as an ass. Though he didn't have the best opinoin of some products, I didn't see any personal slams towards anyone who differs in belief (from what I read).
While GM (like others) likely do have an interest in selling a customer another vehicle, if GM really was set to "sabotage" into making their vehicles to only last a few years, do you think that would be good for repeat business? Not like anyone doesn't have a choice with non-GM vehicles.
I do appreciate BlazerLT's study, because the debate and information that followed was also interesting and useful.
wolfox
04-22-2005, 02:14 PM
Nope, was not implying it at all. I was just saying to open your eyes and do the research and comparison shopping and testing. The thing is, and I have experience with this - what works in the lab is not always what happens in the field. Now if they moved their lab into the outside world and benched those engines at WOT/full load on tracks, exposed equipment to weather, elements, dust and contaminants, I would almost bet that there would have been seriously different outcomes. Nowhere in his dissertation is it said that lab tests were conducted in the open air environment on moving vehicles. Nowhere.
I respect his opinion too, having to work with his company's products day in and day out. There is nothing that will beat experience. However, there is a set amount of built in planned obsolecense in *everything*. GM, or any car manufacturer has much to loose if they make the perfect vehicle. Good case in point: the plastic worm gears in the final drive portion of your classic 200R4 transmission. They break, leak, and kill your speedo. Not a detrimental problem, but annoying, and will ensure a customer will return for the shop and part charges.
GM's and any car manufacturers' business plan will have some weak points designed and built in at the assembly line to ensure revenue stream. The part(s) would be engineered to fail at some point years down the line. This is not tin-foil hat thinking, but proof. For mere pennies more on the part spread over mass production, stronger, better parts can be used in nearly all cars ensuring that some faults will never show. Like using steel stamped seals with nitrile or neoprene rubber - you'll never see head or valve leaks forever in a vehicle designed as such, in comparison to say the plain rubber, paper, or cork you will more commonly see.
I too am living vicariously through LT's work and cannot wait to see the final results. Would be better than risking harsher compounds that allows thinning of oil and metal to metal contact. :)
I respect his opinion too, having to work with his company's products day in and day out. There is nothing that will beat experience. However, there is a set amount of built in planned obsolecense in *everything*. GM, or any car manufacturer has much to loose if they make the perfect vehicle. Good case in point: the plastic worm gears in the final drive portion of your classic 200R4 transmission. They break, leak, and kill your speedo. Not a detrimental problem, but annoying, and will ensure a customer will return for the shop and part charges.
GM's and any car manufacturers' business plan will have some weak points designed and built in at the assembly line to ensure revenue stream. The part(s) would be engineered to fail at some point years down the line. This is not tin-foil hat thinking, but proof. For mere pennies more on the part spread over mass production, stronger, better parts can be used in nearly all cars ensuring that some faults will never show. Like using steel stamped seals with nitrile or neoprene rubber - you'll never see head or valve leaks forever in a vehicle designed as such, in comparison to say the plain rubber, paper, or cork you will more commonly see.
I too am living vicariously through LT's work and cannot wait to see the final results. Would be better than risking harsher compounds that allows thinning of oil and metal to metal contact. :)
gman2153
04-23-2005, 03:46 PM
Bobby hit the nail on the head..
Snake Oil Indeed..... Proof that there is a sucker born every minute...LOL
Snake Oil Indeed..... Proof that there is a sucker born every minute...LOL
BlazerLT
04-23-2005, 09:50 PM
Bobby hit the nail on the head..
Snake Oil Indeed..... Proof that there is a sucker born every minute...LOL
I am not testing snake oil.
Snake Oil Indeed..... Proof that there is a sucker born every minute...LOL
I am not testing snake oil.
BlazerBoyLT98
04-24-2005, 12:12 PM
I am not testing snake oil.
Can't wait to see the full results, I am pretty much sold now! I used the gunk flush as instructed by everyone but I would like to do a less harsh cleaner maybe when I hit 125K. At 112K now. Bought the truck with 60K on it 2 years and 1 month ago. I do a lot of driving and I am as broke as a joke and would like to have this truck last as long as possible!!!!!!! I need to do a tune up at some point this summer as I have not done one. When I bought this truck it had about 8 grand worth of work done through an extended warranty, thank god I bought it!!!!!! I had so much trouble with this truck until everything was fixed. Again I can't wait to see the end result of BlazerLT's work. Thank you for doing this and documenting it so well for us.
PS heading to Montreal this summer for the Jazz Festival, are you anywhere near?
Can't wait to see the full results, I am pretty much sold now! I used the gunk flush as instructed by everyone but I would like to do a less harsh cleaner maybe when I hit 125K. At 112K now. Bought the truck with 60K on it 2 years and 1 month ago. I do a lot of driving and I am as broke as a joke and would like to have this truck last as long as possible!!!!!!! I need to do a tune up at some point this summer as I have not done one. When I bought this truck it had about 8 grand worth of work done through an extended warranty, thank god I bought it!!!!!! I had so much trouble with this truck until everything was fixed. Again I can't wait to see the end result of BlazerLT's work. Thank you for doing this and documenting it so well for us.
PS heading to Montreal this summer for the Jazz Festival, are you anywhere near?
BlazerLT
04-24-2005, 01:10 PM
Can't wait to see the full results, I am pretty much sold now! I used the gunk flush as instructed by everyone but I would like to do a less harsh cleaner maybe when I hit 125K. At 112K now. Bought the truck with 60K on it 2 years and 1 month ago. I do a lot of driving and I am as broke as a joke and would like to have this truck last as long as possible!!!!!!! I need to do a tune up at some point this summer as I have not done one. When I bought this truck it had about 8 grand worth of work done through an extended warranty, thank god I bought it!!!!!! I had so much trouble with this truck until everything was fixed. Again I can't wait to see the end result of BlazerLT's work. Thank you for doing this and documenting it so well for us.
PS heading to Montreal this summer for the Jazz Festival, are you anywhere near?
I live about 8 hours from Montreal. Last year when I went there, my EGR valve got a chunk of carbon in it on the way home. Boy, was that ever a treat.
PS heading to Montreal this summer for the Jazz Festival, are you anywhere near?
I live about 8 hours from Montreal. Last year when I went there, my EGR valve got a chunk of carbon in it on the way home. Boy, was that ever a treat.
BlazerBoyLT98
04-24-2005, 01:13 PM
I live about 8 hours from Montreal. Last year when I went there, my EGR valve got a chunk of carbon in it on the way home. Boy, was that ever a treat.
Wow guess that place was bad luck for you and me both! I spent about $500 at Casino De Montreal and lost it all in about an hour!!!!!!!! Strip clubs were fun though! Gas killed me on the way back. Damn expensive
Wow guess that place was bad luck for you and me both! I spent about $500 at Casino De Montreal and lost it all in about an hour!!!!!!!! Strip clubs were fun though! Gas killed me on the way back. Damn expensive
BlazerLT
04-27-2005, 05:14 PM
Just a followup regarding the "GM engineer" on the BITOG forum. He's banned from participation due to ".. his attitude toward other posters was getting harsh..."
I suggested that he come over to this forum group and help us all through some issues/questions on our blazers....but who knows.....
This thread is for MY experience with Auto-RX. I don't need you inviting someone into this thread with an attitude problem to smear this thread with his opinion.
Those guys over there at BITOG are REALLY easy going people so if he had problems over there, I can see problems quickly coming up if he comes here.
He is welcome here, but I am not even going to tolerate 1/4 of the attitude he threw over there.
I suggested that he come over to this forum group and help us all through some issues/questions on our blazers....but who knows.....
This thread is for MY experience with Auto-RX. I don't need you inviting someone into this thread with an attitude problem to smear this thread with his opinion.
Those guys over there at BITOG are REALLY easy going people so if he had problems over there, I can see problems quickly coming up if he comes here.
He is welcome here, but I am not even going to tolerate 1/4 of the attitude he threw over there.
DINO55
04-27-2005, 05:29 PM
This thread is for MY experience with Auto-RX. I don't need you inviting someone into this thread with an attitude problem to smear this thread with his opinion.
Those guys over there at BITOG are REALLY easy going people so if he had problems over there, I can see problems quickly coming up if he comes here.
He is welcome here, but I am not even going to tolerate 1/4 of the attitude he threw over there.
AMEN...:iagree:
Those guys over there at BITOG are REALLY easy going people so if he had problems over there, I can see problems quickly coming up if he comes here.
He is welcome here, but I am not even going to tolerate 1/4 of the attitude he threw over there.
AMEN...:iagree:
TonyMazz
04-27-2005, 08:37 PM
This thread is for MY experience with Auto-RX. I don't need you inviting someone into this thread with an attitude problem to smear this thread with his opinion.
Those guys over there at BITOG are REALLY easy going people so if he had problems over there, I can see problems quickly coming up if he comes here.
He is welcome here, but I am not even going to tolerate 1/4 of the attitude he threw over there.
Forget I even mentioned it....seemed like his experience could help us on our engines, but never mind. :disappoin
Those guys over there at BITOG are REALLY easy going people so if he had problems over there, I can see problems quickly coming up if he comes here.
He is welcome here, but I am not even going to tolerate 1/4 of the attitude he threw over there.
Forget I even mentioned it....seemed like his experience could help us on our engines, but never mind. :disappoin
BlazerLT
04-27-2005, 09:39 PM
I appreciate it, but that last thing we need is someone with a horrible attitude problem coming in and telling everyone that they are wrong and stupid.
He got kicked off the other forum for that same reason.
He got kicked off the other forum for that same reason.
BlazerBoyLT98
05-06-2005, 12:35 PM
Just curious if there is anything new to report? I have been real interested in this....
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