Bow Before Thy Mater, Bitches (Pics/ My Project)

:evillol:
done deal
I love my Fedex guy
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture231.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture232.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture233.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture234.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture235.jpg

Now that i have the Componet Sets this thread will be my on going project thread. This wont be my first install. but it will the first system i can call mine own in my own vehicle :lol: . So as i complete an aspect of the project i will post pics and if a tutorial be needed it will be done.

Now as for these little suckers. VERY NICE. sorry they are on the bar with the Nesqick but i couldnt wait. my mom was even screaming at me because i used a steak knife to get the box open :lol2: . Im planing on eventually going 100-150w one each side. i will probably port and tune around 50 or 60Hz. it will be ported just above where ever i will be crossing my 18 over. This kind of stuff takes careful planning so i will be messing around in WinISD for a while.
The only thing i am scared of is blowing the tweeters, and blowing the cross overs. :banghead: so i may start off with just 2 chanels but eventually step up to an active cross over and 4 chanels (so i cna turn the tweets down, ive heard they are a bit too strong even with the 50w they are rated at).
i am also scared that the cone will smash into the grill. which is why i am going ported instead of sealed. less excursion in the lower end with more output to keep up with the 18 once it is bought.
Questions, Comments, suggestions etc... are more than welcome. but Comments and suggestions MUST BE EDUCATED. dont come in here telling me i should have gone with Pioneer because they B da SHznit... :rofl:

good stuff, when u go active, is it on a hu, or are u buyning an outboard crossover? like from tru tech or audiocontrol?

also i was guna do something like that, i was also afraid to blow the tweeters, so why not just buy a smaller amp for them? like 25-50rmsx2 amp? and buy a stronger one for the mids when u go active, just an idea

When i go active i will also be getting an EQ (untill then i will just have to controll the bass via head unit) and the EQ i get will have to have 3 way Xover or at least 2way (the amp im getting for the 18 will have an Xover in it)
as far as 2 seperate amps, im limited on space....i really only have room for 2 maybe 3 amps. and eventually i will step up to either a hammer head on the 18 or two BX1800's so id like to have justo ne amp for the mids/highs. as long as each chanel has gain controlls or F and R gain controlls i will be good.

That's nice... that should sound great in your truck. I have a Nissan Kingcab truck, so space is limited. I don't even know how you're going to fit an 18" in there but you say you'll still be able to put the seat all the way back?

The only thing that sucks about trucks is theft... everything is visible. From your sig it looks like you've got the back windows tinted. Does your truck have one of those pull-across cab covers? I know some Rangers do...

Theft wont be a problem with the security system going in for my birth day ;)
plus the RE's are flush mount and i am going to flush mount the 18. the enclosure is going to extend from the floor (jump seat and jack removal) to 1-2" above the bottom of the rear winsheild. all the way across, and the seats are as far back as my dad needs them (which is 2-3 notches further than where i like to sit because i am shorter and am not expected to get much taller) with a decent lean. basically there will be plenty or room for oral when needed ;) :lol:
i dont have one of the pull overs but even if i did it would have to be removed because of the height of the enclosure.
For thoes wondering i am geting a viper security system with 2way pager that notifies me if it has been desturbed, ignition lock out, power locks and 126dB siren with Radar sensor if anyone tries to reach into my bed.
i will then wire it up to where if the alarm is set the stereo plays a series of tones at 3/4 volume...which should be more than enough to set off any surrounding alarms.... on top of the fact that the amps wont be visible (well maybe, they may go in a plexi case on top of or on the sides of the enclosure) and the xxx18 enclosure will be bolted to the floor boards, RE enclosre glassed into the doors (ive decided agianst kick panles, when i put them in with a door panel tutorial i will tell why) and all will be flush mounted. and my head unit will be stock...and if not stock a head unit that has to be reactivated if it sences it was stolen. on top of my windows being tinted.
right now you can even see in form out side but i have been pulled over and i have to remove the current tint and replace it with 35% on the side windows. besides being illegal it is dangeros. it is so dark that when driving at night you can barely see low beams, lead alone the car itsself.

oh and its about time to change my avater to something RE....since i am no longer going with adire...hmmm

35% tint on the sides? What do you have on the sides right now... 20%?

That sounds good, good idea getting the alarm. I need my seat to go all the way back in my truck, plus I sometimes drive with it tilted slightly back.

How are you going to wire it so that if the alarm goes off it will play tones?

There is some module they sell up at the local car audio shop that conects to viper alarms that will do that. its like an audio Turn on/RCA in. i may have to get a new head unit though if i want it to do that. i dont like messing with alarm stuff, which is why my alarm is going to be the only thing the audio shop installs on my truck.
but basically when the alarm goes off it triggers a switch that tells the head unit to come on and then inputs the series of tones. i dont know if you have to preset it for AUX in and the volume level or not but i know a few people who have them around town. it goes from like a 30Hz to a 13kHz do 40Hz to 10kHz to 50Hz to 1000Hz then 100Hz then White noise then cycles agian. i have no idea how it works, it just does :lol: .

mmm... aunt jemima maple syrup...

u no !t....
or as bassmaster put it over on Soundillusion
"Now That's a Breakfast
Nesquick and syrup"

u no !t....
or as bassmaster put it over on Soundillusion
"Now That's a Breakfast
Nesquick and syrup"

I'm kinda lost here. Are you going to port the componets??? There is no need to unless you are mounting them in something other than the doors. Most componets are set up to run in poor conditions i.e.> the doors with no ports or anything.

As far as the alarm turning on th amps. Yeah you know I've heard about these for years but never seen them. Personally, I'd go for the pain generator siren for inside the cab. If anyone can stand that without their ears bleeding then they need it more than you.

After the alarm set up, email me. I can give you pointers as what to do to it so the alarm shop stays in good faith

Good Componets arent designed to run in crap conditions, not if you are looking for top of the line SQ. The only reason i am porting the mids is so i can let them extend on down into the 60Hz range with out blowing them or having the cone smash into the grille.
But When the times comes to get my alarm installed i will PM you. Ill take any advice on that kind of stuff right now because, like i said, i hate messing with alarms and i am completely ignorant on what is what.

and eventually i will step up to either a hammer head on the 18 or two BX1800's

What's a hammer head? TWO bx1800's is too much for the XXX daily...not for competitions then...

Good Componets arent designed to run in crap conditions, not if you are looking for top of the line SQ. The only reason i am porting the mids is so i can let them extend on down into the 60Hz range with out blowing them or having the cone smash into the grille.


I'm sure you can do it, but the RE components were made for IB not ported. If you really want mid-bass to keep up with a 18XXX then you shoulda gone with the XXX mids ported, they're made for it. Also, the cone won't have any problem with the grille, I'm sure RE kept that in mind when the matched the grilles. If anything, the cone would move MORE if it ever went below tuning ported. peace

NG

That is why it is going to have a high pass right below tuning. WinISD says 24cuft sealed...lol. 1.5cuft ported tuned to 60Hz. that way the 18 will only have to handle 20-60Hz. Im not worried about doppler distortion. other than straight test tones it is hardly noticable except ofr at extreme volumes.
The RE's only need to keep up with the XXX18 up untill about 130dB peaks. which is about as loud as i will listen to rock (Distortion Pedal + Electric Guitar + higher then 130dB = Hell on earth for your ears)
after that the 18 will be used mostly for setting off car alarms, going deff, vibrateing everything within a 3/4mile radius, ya know stuff like that.
oh and Hammer head, TruTech Hammer H-1. 2000w@1ohm
Only thing is that it is only 69% efficency.

hey u said ur going to port n tune ur mids,

would it be easier to use horns? (im not exactly sure what horns do, but it seems to involve the mid)

Horns....cost more, oh and they are more like Highs that can extend down unto the Mid's range...
Oh and from what ive been hearing about the RE comps.
They sound better sealed, but i havent heards anything about ported, than IB but they still sound good IB. They also get louder sealed, only problem is i dont know what Enclosure Q to aim for if i went sealed. oh and the tweeters are sapposed to be harsh as Horse shit mixed with sulfuric acid if they arent EQed with the crossovers that came with them, because of that i am probably going to aim them towards the windsheild to tone them down some but because they swivle i can turn them back towards me if they arent enough with the 18...

That is why it is going to have a high pass right below tuning. WinISD says 24cuft sealed...lol. 1.5cuft ported tuned to 60Hz. that way the 18 will only have to handle 20-60Hz. Im not worried about doppler distortion. other than straight test tones it is hardly noticable except ofr at extreme volumes.
The RE's only need to keep up with the XXX18 up untill about 130dB peaks. which is about as loud as i will listen to rock (Distortion Pedal + Electric Guitar + higher then 130dB = Hell on earth for your ears)
after that the 18 will be used mostly for setting off car alarms, going deff, vibrateing everything within a 3/4mile radius, ya know stuff like that.
oh and Hammer head, TruTech Hammer H-1. 2000w@1ohm
Only thing is that it is only 69% efficency.

I wouldn't pay attention to WinISD for those...I'd talk to RE personally and have them model up something in LEAP if they haven't already done so! And I knew what you were referring to when u said the "Hammer Head"...It's the Tru H-1 and the Tru SH-1 (Hammer 'H-1' and Sledge Hammer 'SH-1') ;)

horns are HLCD's - horn loaded compression drivers. The horns shape is a natural amplifier and the compression drivers are very efficient - so they get really loud. A compression driver works by "pleating" the air thru an orifice, so to me they often soend very harsh. They are normally designed to play from say 500-800 Hz and up, so you will definitely need a midbass driver if you use them.

ah i c

Horns are great if you know what your doin but components are much better if you don't have a lot of experience....... I have heard ID's lower lines horns all eqd out (EQs are needed w/ horns IMO) and paired up w/ some JL 6w0's I believe......sounded real nice and got loud for the little bit of power that was on them.

Horns are great if you know what your doin but components are much better if you don't have a lot of experience....... I have heard ID's lower lines horns all eqd out (EQs are needed w/ horns IMO) and paired up w/ some JL 6w0's I believe......sounded real nice and got loud for the little bit of power that was on them.

Yup, you need a GREAT active xover...

And...dual 31 band EQs :)

NG

Horns are great if you know what your doin but components are much better if you don't have a lot of experience....... I have heard ID's lower lines horns all eqd out (EQs are needed w/ horns IMO) and paired up w/ some JL 6w0's I believe......sounded real nice and got loud for the little bit of power that was on them.
Actually no. In a properly set up system, you don't need EQ's. Normally when I am done doing a full system, all the gains(like bass, midpass, and highs) are all set to neutral. Active crossovers are usually needed for a true sound quality system but not always. People are too quick to play with the gains on a radio or add EQ's which normally just result in clipping.

I use to sell horns back in the early days because no one made a nice componet set. If you wanted nice crisp highs, horns were the choice. Today, there are many nice componets to choose from. Using a nice matched componet set does take out the guess even for the seasoned installer but they are also usually much less expensive.

PaulD is right. For the most part the horns sound very harsh compared to their componet counterparts. I personally never liked them but at the time, I had to use them. I couldn't tell you the last time I've done anything with horns.

yes therefore needing to be eqed out

you have to be careful with horns (installation wise), because where they are mounted - the dash becomes part of the horn. That's why they tend to sound best in cars where the part of the dash that slopes up (at knee level) are symmetrical. If I remember correctly, they had some type of block or baffle they put in the horn to "tune" them.

you have to be careful with horns (installation wise), because where they are mounted - the dash becomes part of the horn. That's why they tend to sound best in cars where the part of the dash that slopes up (at knee level) are symmetrical. If I remember correctly, they had some type of block or baffle they put in the horn to "tune" them.
Yes Paul you are correct. The install is the key for them to sound well. Unfortunately, most of the time they look kinda out of place when you just slap them under the lip of the dash. Plus, you usually lose a little room too. Now, in a completely custom car with a custom done dash, that's usually not the problem. Some horns had internal baffels or "blocks" that could be moved while others had removable ones.

It seemed that you saw them all the time in stereo comps and show cars but I can't remember the last time I've seen them used.

Well I got tired of having these beauties just sitting there in my room doing nothing, so instead of waiting for the money to make door panels, I simply installed them in the stock location. Now normally this isnt a problem, but mine was. My full range OEM woofers are 6x9's...my RE's are 6.5's. well needless to say i had to construct a baffle so there wouldnt be cancelation and all thoes other fun things. Now the doors arent sealed but eventually they will be, and dampened.

Well anyway here is an instruction for anyone wanting to put 6.5's in a 6x9 hole.

There once was a group of cave men. They had a round peg and an oval hole :rofl: . One cave man said "Make round peg smaller than oval hole, Then it will fit." Anoter cave man said "seal hole and make new hole." and another said" make oval hole round buy cutting off extra." But the wise and mroe experenced cave man said "Simply remove some excess from the oval hole and the round peg will fit perfectly." And they did, and it was good. Then the wise cave man said "let there be sound" and there was, and it was good. :iceslolan

Ok Ok... so here is the comparison.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture268.jpg
geuss wich one is the RE 6.5?

Well here is a list of what you will need.

-Plywood/MDF 1/4"-1/2"
-Chaulking of some sort
-Bolts
-Jig Saw
-Drill and Drill Bits
-Jig Saw blades for metal and wood
-Pencil
-Philips Head Screwdriver
-Flat Head Screw Driver
-Plyers
-Dikes (no, not the ones that are fun to watch, the kind that cut stuff)
-A big hammer...just kidding :lol:
-File (poor baby doesnt want to get medal shavings in his fingers)
-Eyeprotection, Captian C says, "Wear Eye Protection When Cutting Metal"
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture285.jpg

Ok Step One...
REMOVA YA' GD PANEL. I cant tell you how to do this, you figure it out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture269.jpg

Remove the stock speakers
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture270.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture271.jpg

Now is a good time to disconect your battery.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture273.jpg

You want to cut a hole about so so big.... in other words, bigger than the hole but small enough so it will fit, this is application dependant as well so figure it out yo' self.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture274.jpg

TIP: for thoes who have never used power tools before and live in a middle class apartment and never do any DIY work... tie courds togather like so. this is so they dont become unplugged when dragging the courd around place to place. Oh, and make sure the Jig Saw is unpluged when chaning or adjusting blades.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture278.jpg

You are going to need a Jig Saw blade that is made for cutting wood. rougher teeth then metal cutting blades and the thinnger the easyer it is to make tight or elaborate cuts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture279.jpg

You should end up with something a little like this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture280.jpg

ohhh, ahhh, its bigger than the hole
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture281.jpg

Dont be a puss, peal back your water guard so you can get your arm back there
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture282.jpg

Mark it all up to see how much you will need to cut
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture283.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture284.jpg

and cut it, oh BTW this is what a metal blade looks like.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture290.jpg

Now Mark up your baffle for mounting holes and speaker holes.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture286.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture287.jpg

and TA'DA
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture291.jpg

Good as gold
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture292.jpg

Use a little something like this to seal it all up, so you dont have to F' around with a chaulking gun.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture294.jpg

AND DONT BE SHY WITH IT
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture295.jpg

Mark Up the mounding ring if supplied (not required but it made my job easyer, even though i am not using the grilles...for now)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture296.jpg

While watching the chaulking dry connect all your Xovers and Tweets etc..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture297.jpg

Then mounter her up
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture298.jpg

and be done
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture299.jpg

nice, where are u putting the tweeter again?

nice, where are u putting the tweeter again?

Don't you see... it's going to hang down with the wires inside the door ;)

Nice glasses.... :loser:

NG

The glasses where a joke ;)
but you should wear eye protection.
Next weekend i will be working on a little something that will mount on the door aiming the tweeters at the windsheild. Direct listening with these mofo's is harsh.
but it will be all good once i get an active Xover/EQ. the Xover point of the tweets will be raised 1/2-1 octave and quieted a bit.

CBFryman, you look like a rope licking stick boy in your shades!

Anyway, I prefer to use Lexan or even the higher grade Plexiglass for doing what you did. I also cut the hole (with tin snips) much larger that what you did. That way you can still mount the woofer under the stock door panel without having to worry about it hitting anything. I do not like using wood because it tends to rot, split, and crack because it is almost always wet during the winter here in Ohio.

hmmm, well this is only temporary, and the wood may be glassed eventually. and with 7.1 one way linear xmax...i doubt i will be hitting any thing.

but you are right, Lexan would be a better choice, but for us cheap/poor basterds we have to use treated plywood.

fryman for some reason I pictured you to be a 400 pound 16 yr old who look about 12 in punked out little wigger clothes..... guess I was wrong.... how the hell do they sound?

they sound great. nice and clear. not a whole lot louder than stock but then agian they are getting 25w peak if that. probably 10w RMS. and they still move like a mofo. I cant wait to get 50 or even 100 on the midbass. for the price i would reccomend these to ANYONE with an EQ (to tone down the highs). IMO these are better than JL XR 6.5's 2way componet set. Probably even compareable to the 3way though i havent heard their 3way componet set. once i get 50w on these they should be more than able to keep up with an XXX18 to where i want them to (no need in getting componets that can kepep up with a 150db sub stage completely)

Heh, well 3-4 years ago (when i was 12) you would have seen a sort of wigger. only not fat, average sized and weak as a tooth pick.
Now i listen to just as much rap as i do Rock, Alternative, Classic rock, and Reggae. and i even have a few country songs i like. oh and since i started HS i have started weight lifting and all that good stuff. so now im average and actually have some muscle on me. WOOT

Bech 175 p0nds.
Mah Pec's 'n' tri'z pwnzz joooo!!!11!!!!11!!!175!!11!!1

225x5 in Freshman football.... :dunno: :gives:

lol, just say i wasnt fat/out of shape.
but hey, lets get into squats...
315x2 freshman soccer....
and i weigh 140lbs... :grinyes: :flipa:

come one everybody lets compare bench and squat.... :grinno:

lol, just say i wasnt fat/out of shape.
but hey, lets get into squats...
315x2 freshman soccer....
and i weigh 140lbs... :grinyes: :flipa:

come one everybody lets compare bench and squat.... :grinno:

I bet when you squat you couldn't bench my balls in your mouth...

NG

Ya, even though I was still squating the same you were when I was a freshman, although I was about 40 lbs heavier, I never cared much about how much someone can bench, squat, rack...etc... I was benching half of what some kids were doing, an still laying em out on my highlight tapes :evillol:

hmmm, well at my school the weight lifting team is big, foot ball is huge, and athletics are all around 99% more important then acedimics. though i care about my acedemics i enjoy making these huge dudes that weight like 250lbs wearing their "275lb weight club" T shirts and all over the place shut up...when i tell them i am 138lbs (when i want to be, but since im not on the wreseling team nor the weight lifting team as long as i keep my body fat % down i am good) and benching 170...and it was just last thursday i did 175. and 315. well that is my max this year. last year it was 350...but that is when i lifted weights religiously for the most part.
I just wish i could clean and jerk more. there are kids my size or slightly bigger cleaning 225. i can clean 150 on a good day. but power cleans are all in technique.

but anyway, back to audio discussion.

hmm I'm 280lbs now up from 230 last yea WOOT college does that to ya..... last time I maxed I did 255 like 4 or 5 times one rep max was 295.... I was pissed I didn't get 300 and I sqauted 405 however many times to get a 480 one rep max.... dead lift I kicked arse and did 405 a lotta times to get just under 500 i think it was 490..... never did make the 1300 pound club but had 1200 my whole senior year...... I'd be lucky to get 1000 now I ahvent lifted 4ever...... ne ways yea 100 perside iunno bout that shit.

Well i started on some tweeter pods today and finaly just got tired (and light headed :redface: ) from working with fiberglass all day with out a resperator...so here is one of the molds, the other is finished but needs some re enforcement and some trimming... have happy fun, i will post them in order and give a shot discription of what is going on....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture305.jpg
I was gonna go for maksing the entire thing, the tape was so really cheap...like 2.89 for a 3" roll....but then i said, F' it...well ya, make sure to make where and near where the resin is going to be WELL...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture306.jpg
for door panels trash bags work really well....
but make sure it is the HD ones.... no wimpy kitchen bags...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture307.jpg
though resin wont eat through maksing tape, aluminum foil is always a good idea....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture308.jpg
give you a general idea of what sizes and shapes to cut out, NEVER try to make a big area, especially a contored area, one pice of mat....it is a pain in the ass, trust me from experence... lots of little pirces fit togather alot better...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture309.jpg
Get'R'Dun

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture311.jpg
Both panels and some of the stuff you will need, incase yo uare wondering abotu color differnces....the panel on the left i used 2 month old resin, just some stuff i had lying around from repairing a surf baord, the other stuff was brand new, and i mixed it alot hotter than the other... on top of the fact that the one on the left was on its 2nd coat and the one on the right was only on its 1st

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture312.jpg
tryin to figure out how i am going to shape it....eventually i abandoned the clippers for a Jig saw, faster and easyer, but make sure to use eye protection... :cool: wood is one thing, fiberglass and metal are another...



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture303.jpg
another shot of the door with the mids

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/CBFryman/Picture304.jpg
the 18 isnt too far off.... like my internally amplified flea markey sub....excelente` if i say so myself....lmao

wow... looking good Fry-guy! Are you going to have enough room behind your seat for an 18" sub?? My 15" in 3.25 cubes takes up most of my trunk... it's gonna be one looooooong box...

You're lucky your door panel comes off so easily by the way. Mine is a royal pain in the butt; I still haven't figured out how to get it off yet. I'm just bending it up enough to unscrew stuff and get it out. It looks like you're gonna have enough room to put crossovers any everything in the door... my door's so thin there's not even enough room for a tweeter :p

my door it is the reomoval of the handle/armrest via 2 screws, 1 screw behind that, one screw at the bottom corner and then removal of the window bar thingy and it slides up and off....but every car is different...

Well, you obviously don't know how to fiberglass...

You didn't use NEARLY enough resin...you dip the entire piece of mat IN the resin, wipe off the extra by dragging it over the edge of the container...then apply if to your spot. ;) You literally should not be able to see the individual fibers anymore...at all. Just so ya know...

NG

PS: You must be a messy fellow...covered the whole damn panel in a garbage bag...lol

i like the paint brush method better, especially since i didnt have gloves or a resporator....which is why i stopped...my head started to hurt....and if you look at the one with the new resin, it is completely clear, it was dry at that point waiting for a layre of mat. that old shit just didnt want to doak in, that is why it is so lumpy i had to put gobs and gobs of resin on there just to get it to soak up what it did...then when my friend dropped by (sorry no picso f his set up, batteries where recharing at the time) we drove down to lowes to get a few quarts of some new stuff.....
ill admit it wasnt the best job ever, but then agian no body even sees that, so who cares right?

oh and BTW, i dont like dipping, with a paint prush you can controll the ammount of resin you use to get just enough needed, dipping, sure you can strain it out but there will still be extra, unneeded, resin in the mat or cloth...

What else is good to keep up with a 18XXX mid-bass wise. For my Brahma I want some very strong mid-bass and I am getting a second Brahma this summer. Kodas?

oh and BTW, i dont like dipping, with a paint prush you can controll the ammount of resin you use to get just enough needed, dipping, sure you can strain it out but there will still be extra, unneeded, resin in the mat or cloth...

And it won't be NEARLY as strong...good thing those are just for tweets...paint doesn't get nearly enough resin on the mat...at all

NG

PS: Tim...I'd look into some XXX6.5's in the door. OR Fiberglass some Decent mids (CDT EF's, Koda 6's, etc) sealed in the door or kicks...

NG

Yes Paul you are correct. The install is the key for them to sound well. Unfortunately, most of the time they look kinda out of place when you just slap them under the lip of the dash. Plus, you usually lose a little room too.


With the Image dynamics minihorns, almost no room is lost :D




It takes a lot of tuning to make horns sounds less harsh. I noticed that when i had my cd1e v2 horns (motorola piezoelectric drivers), they were very harsh, but they were the lowerline of ID's horn. Then i upgraded to the CD3ultra (Altec Lansing high end driver) and the difference was amazing. So much more details without the fatigue that the cd1e had. There are a few spikes here and there, but nothing a dual 31 band EQ can't do :D


As for the RE's tweeter, I have a friend on another forum who also experienced the harshness. He couldn't stand it so he bought a 15 band EQ to try to lower the peaks. It helped, but i guess the nature of the tweeters made it very hard to sound smooth and not too fatiguing.

hehe, my midbass will never be able to keep up with an XXX 18...which i am rethinking my substage, maybe 2 atlas 15's or an SX 18, something cheaper. i dont know....i am going to try and get ahold of RE agian today, tried 12 times friday, but they are moving so...

looks liek a nice set up. must have a decent amount of room in there if your getting an 18.

well the box will be 6.5 cubes tuned to 30Hz with 81-100 sqin of port area, depending on weither it will be a squeez or not... well the atlas 15's are ruled out, $320 fro an SX 18 and i would be lourder with an SX so.... still trying to decide what i want, gonna have some SPL and group delay comparo's in WinISD and decide if the extra perfomance from an XXX is woth the extra money....

well the box will be 6.5 cubes tuned to 30Hz with 81-100 sqin of port area, depending on weither it will be a squeez or not... well the atlas 15's are ruled out, $320 fro an SX 18 and i would be lourder with an SX so.... still trying to decide what i want, gonna have some SPL and group delay comparo's in WinISD and decide if the extra perfomance from an XXX is woth the extra money....

WinISD will tell you jack shit about in-car anything...

NG

really? lol ;)
i can still look at estimated responce graphs and group delays and get a round about idea of how it will do with cabin gain...
when it comes down to it... i dont think the extra SQ (not that that matters, for rock it will rarely go into masive excursions and for rap/bass type stuff the SX and XXX should show no diference) and the fact that the XXX is less sensitive needing a more expensive amp for more power is worth me paying $145 more...
so it is SX18 now, id like the XXX but $145 is a good month or so worth of gas, Tire, new tint, beinging a fund for amp, begining fund for security, box with cash left over, or a lot of food....oh oh oh and there is a guy selling a Cadence amp that would go well with me RE's too.... q3000 i think...

so....im looking at these amps, none are great but hey, w/e...
Hifonics BX1500
Lanzar Vibe268
Profile AP2000
Hifonics TX1005D
Hifonics BX1205D
Absolute ABS9070
MA Audio HK1998
_______________your suggestion....budget amps, under 300....under 250 would be best...

The SX may be louder on the Sensor, and it has the ability to be louder...but daily the XXX will stomp all over it in linear output.

NG

why is the Xmax on an SX?

what*, oh and i edited the 53rd post....

The SX may be louder on the Sensor, and it has the ability to be louder...but daily the XXX will stomp all over it in linear output.

NG


Microsoft :werd:



one thing WinISD doesn't account for is distortion. The XXX has the linear BL so the change in distortion over the cone travel isn't as big as a standard motor.

Lower sensitivity isn't always bad. Its a good thing IMO for subwoofers if the designs are correct. SX vs XXX, the low end response is going to be better on the xxx. Low end response is dependednt on the the mass of the diagphram and the BL of the motor. In this case, if either one of those quantities were to be changed to obtain better low end, you sacrifice sensitivity.

IDmax, brahma, xxx, etc. idmax has the weakest low end, but it is very sensitive. The brahma, xxx, w7, etc have much heavier cone assembly and on the low end will eat the idmax, but they suffer from sensitivity. Many people complained about the idmax having less low end going from the idmax v2 to v3. I could see why. ID decreased the mass of the cone assembly.


There are a lot of things WinISD can measure, but not everything can be taken into account for. We all know that plotting a bazooka bass tube and a W7 can yield the same response, but we also know they won't sound the same either. :)

Microsoft :werd:



one thing WinISD doesn't account for is distortion. The XXX has the linear BL so the change in distortion over the cone travel isn't as big as a standard motor.

Lower sensitivity isn't always bad. Its a good thing IMO for subwoofers if the designs are correct. SX vs XXX, the low end response is going to be better on the xxx. Low end response is dependednt on the the mass of the diagphram and the BL of the motor. In this case, if either one of those quantities were to be changed to obtain better low end, you sacrifice sensitivity.

IDmax, brahma, xxx, etc. idmax has the weakest low end, but it is very sensitive. The brahma, xxx, w7, etc have much heavier cone assembly and on the low end will eat the idmax, but they suffer from sensitivity. Many people complained about the idmax having less low end going from the idmax v2 to v3. I could see why. ID decreased the mass of the cone assembly.


There are a lot of things WinISD can measure, but not everything can be taken into account for. We all know that plotting a bazooka bass tube and a W7 can yield the same response, but we also know they won't sound the same either. :)

I like it when you're around on a regular basis Gsteg, brings more sensibility to the forums ;) Still miss ya on ca.com tho ;)

NG

PS: CB...i wouldn't touch the AP series from Profile OR the MA...OR the Absolute...all because of reliability

so how about the lanzar, though it probably isnt doing a true 1600w i would still go easy on the gains...

so how about the lanzar, though it probably isnt doing a true 1600w i would still go easy on the gains...

I'm not a fan of the Vibe series, the Opti series however :) ;)

NG