Help!! Intermittent starting problem.

[mkj2001]

Any ideas??? I have a 95 Suzuki Vitara 4WD (automatic) and about once a week when I turn the key it won't start. Jumping the car doesn't work. I check the battery and the voltage shows a good charge, I can turn on the lights, radio, and AC etc. When I turn it over I just get one click (from the console) and then nothing! (I did notice that when I tried to turn it over with the radio on the radio light dimmed) If the car sits for several hours it will startup and run with no problem.Then suddenly it happens again.

The last time that it happened I had the car towed to a mechanic but the next morning it was working again. He seemed to think that it may be a switch and suggested that I try shifting into neutral and then back to park, then try to start it. That worked once but not this time. Also, I have noticed that at night with my lights, radio and AC on when I hit the brakes the lights dim. If I am playing a tape instead of the radio and hit the brakes the tape will switch from side A to side B as if I am hitting the tape reverse button. It appears that there is something that is screwing with the voltage. Again a test of the battery under full load checks out OK. I am starting to think that the problem is heat related... is that possible?

I am stationed overseas and Americans are viewed as rich and ripe to be ripped off whenever possible. I do trust the mechanic as he is a friend of a friend but I like to be armed with as much information as possible. Plus, repairs here are pretty primative ie no real diagnostic equipment. I'm going on R&R back to the States in a couple of weeks and I can pickup parts while I am there. Thanks in advance.

[superchuckles]

next time, try moving the shifter WHILE you have the key turned in the start position. you may find that it will suddenly engage while the shifter is not quite in park or neutral & the neutral safety switch needs to be adjusted. -- also, you might want to check the voltage with the engine running - & check voltage when key is in the start position. should be over 13.8 volts when engine is running & if it drops below 10 when you turn the key to start, but it's not actually turning over, then your battery is probably shot, though i'd make sure to charge it fully & make sure that the alternator is working ok before replacing it.

by what you say though about the tape deck, it sounds like your running voltage is low.

[pbrooks259]

Originally Posted by mkj2001

Any ideas??? I have a 95 Suzuki Vitara 4WD (automatic) and about once a week when I turn the key it won't start. Jumping the car doesn't work. I check the battery and the voltage shows a good charge, I can turn on the lights, radio, and AC etc. When I turn it over I just get one click (from the console) and then nothing! (I did notice that when I tried to turn it over with the radio on the radio light dimmed) If the car sits for several hours it will startup and run with no problem.Then suddenly it happens again.

The last time that it happened I had the car towed to a mechanic but the next morning it was working again. He seemed to think that it may be a switch and suggested that I try shifting into neutral and then back to park, then try to start it. That worked once but not this time. Also, I have noticed that at night with my lights, radio and AC on when I hit the brakes the lights dim. If I am playing a tape instead of the radio and hit the brakes the tape will switch from side A to side B as if I am hitting the tape reverse button. It appears that there is something that is screwing with the voltage. Again a test of the battery under full load checks out OK. I am starting to think that the problem is heat related... is that possible?

I am stationed overseas and Americans are viewed as rich and ripe to be ripped off whenever possible. I do trust the mechanic as he is a friend of a friend but I like to be armed with as much information as possible. Plus, repairs here are pretty primative ie no real diagnostic equipment. I'm going on R&R back to the States in a couple of weeks and I can pickup parts while I am there. Thanks in advance.

Hi, I had a similar problem on a 91 Camry V6; turned out to be a bad alternator (just replaced, but so far so good) not putting out the 13.5-14 volts to keep the battery charged up for starting. What would happen is that we would travel several miles; I think far and long enough to drain the battery to the point of not being able to energize the starter solenoid. I think I even had 12V at the solenoid, but was like it needed an extra boost from the battery to get over the hump. (Not sure how that jives with jumping not working.) I also thought was heat related so bought a GM solenoid heat shield (Autozone) and put it on my solenoid, wouldn't hurt. It would not fit, but I bent it open more and had the bottom edges pop over and grab hold of the long solenoid mounting bolts; seems to hold well. Not sure heat was the exact problem but seemed to exacerbate it. My alternator was only putting out 12.5-12.8V, so needed replacing; I'm hoping it was the culprit.

I too would just get the 1 click from what seemed to be a relay in the fuse/relay box under the hood. As others suggested I replaced the battery, starter & solenoid (rebuilt-one fellow told me that I should get new and maybe that would solve it), ignition switch & neutral safety switch; I did all these to no avail. I was ready to replace battery cables when the charge light finally came on. Apparently alternator voltage threshold for charge light was a bit too low to show the problem when it first started occurring.

Boy, that was really a PITA problem, being stranded for 1-3 hrs. at a time. I guess (really guessing) the battery would regain some power while sitting and cooling off (you know how you discharge one and come back a few hours later and it will crank the engine); I know heat causes more internal resistance in the battery. Hope this helps some.

Paul

[curtis73]

I would agree with the above, except you said there's a click and battery voltage tests fine. The very first thing I would check is the starter. The brushes wear out and don't make contact with the stator anymore.

Next time it happens, go tap on the starter lightly with a small hammer or give it a good rap with a wooden mallet. If it magically starts after that, replace the starter. I'm quite certain that's your problem.

[Schister66]

Originally Posted by curtis73

I would agree with the above, except you said there's a click and battery voltage tests fine. The very first thing I would check is the starter. The brushes wear out and don't make contact with the stator anymore.

Next time it happens, go tap on the starter lightly with a small hammer or give it a good rap with a wooden mallet. If it magically starts after that, replace the starter. I'm quite certain that's your problem.

damn Curtis you're on top of things, i wanted to say that......

[Cat Fuzz]

I vote bad starter. Usually its the solonoid. There is an electro-magnetic cylinder with a piston inside that gets pulled in when 12volts is applied via keyswitch. That plunger connects a pair of larger contacts that supplies the main current to run the starter. These two large contacts usually wear out unevenly and sometimes won't make a complete circuit. I bet if you tried repeatedly to start the car, it would eventually start. The next time it doesn't start, keep trying. It will make contact after a few tries.

[pbrooks259]

I apologize, 91 Camry wouldn't start this evening; so, apparently, "alternator not charging" is not the problem. As noted elsewhere, must be starter or starter solenoid or wiring thereof. I'm returning my rebuilt starter; had installed for 2+ mos. Non-start status returned about 2-3 wks. after rebuilt starter installed. Maybe I should buy new starter????

[pbrooks259]

I believe herein lies the answer--bad, pitted, or worn out solenoid contacts:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml

I used contacts A&B on my 91 Camry 2.5L v6--2FVZE, is it?, but maybe should've used A&D--D seems more concentric with the plunger; both are 22mm wide. I just sanded the center round copper contact around the plunger with the fine side of a finger nail file, probably could have stood to have been a bit finer. But, mine seems to not suffer from this disease anymore.

As the site states, I wouldn't install a rebuilt starter/solenoid. I did this twice, and each time it ended up after a while doing the same thing--"1 click" and no start. Maybe it's inferior contacts, not sure.