Smelly, inefficient, misses out, and more!

BruisedOrange · 09-08-2005, 03:25 PM

First let me say that yes, I did use the 'Search' feature before posting. I wore it out, in fact. I found many similar issues, but nothing specific and I still have the same question.

Secondly...I'm just a girl. I don't know a great deal about automobile repair, but I do know this much: If I so much as travel past an auto repair business, thousands of dollars in charges appear on my credit card statement. I have a capable and willing father, stepfather, boyfriend and ex-husband who can help me with actual repairs but I like to try to accurately diagnose my problems before I ask them for help with repair.

FACTS:

1995 GMC Jimmy 4.3L V6 Vortec 4WD SLT

157,630 miles

SES Code 174 / System Rich, Bank 2

OBSERVATIONS:

Smells like gas

Misses out like crazy

SES light is sporadic, seems to appear and disappear without any pattern

Fuel efficiency SUCKS - yes, I know it's an SUV but this is too, too much

Sputters more when A/C is running

When I punch it / floor it / goose it, the A/C blows out the 'defrost' vents rather than the dash vents

When driving at steady speeds, A/C blows out the dash like normal

Temp is always ok / doesn't get 'hot'

Nothing leaking underneath

Doesn't die on me, or at least it hasn't yet

THOUGHTS:

Could be the MAP sensor, any of the O2 sensors, the fuel pressure regulator, or something I haven't thought of yet.

All these are simple enough to replace and aren't terribly costly parts, but I don't want to go out and buy $300 worth of parts and have someone put them on for me just to find out that none of those were the problem to begin with.

What I'm trying to avoid here is taking it to a shop and paying them $100 to tell me which part(s) to replace, but I realize that I might have to do exactly that.

Help? Me? Please?

blazes9395 · 09-08-2005, 08:20 PM

From what it sounds like, looks like your injector, or the spider is leaking. Do a search for CPI injector, in the blazer forum and you'll get some ver y good descriptions. Its likely your CPI spider. The part will cost about 250 -300 itself, its really easy to replace. Good luck!

BruisedOrange · 09-09-2005, 07:57 AM

This is *exactly* the information I was looking for! Thank you so much - - - I knew this was a possibility, and the very thing I wanted to avoid was spending $300 on several parts only to find that it wasn't any of those parts, but was one OTHER part....that costs about $300!!

Now, I put out feelers for the cpi injector and here's the 'cut/paste' information I got this morning - a quote from a parts guy...

1992-1995 Chevy/GMC S-10 4.3L VIN "W" Complete CPi Injector Assembly Brand NEW Genuine AC Delco

Item #: 2171431
$259.95

Lifetime Replacement Warranty on all factory style Headlights, Taillights,
Corner & Marker Lights, Mirrors, Window Motors, Exhaust Manifolds
Fuel Injectors, Fuel pumps, Door Handles and Window Regulators.
1-800-611-6730

Is this the part I need? Because I'd love to get the darn thing *today* and have this taken care of over the weekend!!

You're totally awesome. Thanks for your help!!

ZL1power69 · 09-09-2005, 11:56 AM

yes that is the part u need. Also everyone including myself HIGHLY recomend u replace the fuel inlet/return lines (also referd to as a "nut kit") that connect to the CPI spider. I replaced both of these in my 95 about a month ago. I recomend ordering them from gmpartszone.com; CPI spider was 295 and the nut kit was 55 (believe me i shopped around and this is the cheapest). shipped in about a week and a half. at the same time, replace the upper intake gasket; about 11.50 at advanced auto parts (felpro part#MS95818).

here are the numbers for cpi and nut kit:
The CPI unit gm part # is 17113673
The fuel lines, called a "nut kit" are # 17112705

also when u install these parts, on the back of the manifold there is a retaining plate and torx bolt that hold the nut kit in. DO NOT STRIP THE TORX BOLT. this happened to me. i had to buy stud removers to get it off. because of this the job took 12hrs over a weekend so BE CAREFULL.

i hope i have been of some help to u and good luck.

blazes9395 · 09-09-2005, 12:12 PM

Your welcome....also ZL1 is right on the money with this other stuff too...very advisable to do what he describes, also after your done replacing everything, its a very good idea to do a oil/filter change, since gas can get into the oil, and potentially damage your engine(bearings). Also,(this is stated in other discussions too), when you have it all installed, just before you put the upper plenum back, turn the key to the "ON" position, DON'T try to start it, just "ON" and check for leaks. If everything is done right, you will see no leaks at any point. Its easier done now than putting it all back together and finding out something wasn't done right and its still leaking gas inside. Have fun!

BruisedOrange · 09-09-2005, 01:33 PM

Will you marry me?

I'm printing this out now, heading over to the website you gave me with the <gasp!> PART NUMBERS you gave me (man, are those things hard to come by or what? It's like they're ancient Chinese secrets or something!) and getting this crap DONE!

If I told you that I drive about 220 miles a week and spend about $90 a week on gas...would you be surprised? I know that it wouldn't be this bad if I had this fixed, and I know that every day that I drive this truck without fixing it, I'm setting myself up for big, big, big ugly problems.

I love you, man.

blazes9395 · 09-09-2005, 04:50 PM

LOL...glad to see its working out.

BlazerLT · 09-09-2005, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BruisedOrange

Will you marry me?

I'm printing this out now, heading over to the website you gave me with the <gasp!> PART NUMBERS you gave me (man, are those things hard to come by or what? It's like they're ancient Chinese secrets or something!) and getting this crap DONE!

If I told you that I drive about 220 miles a week and spend about $90 a week on gas...would you be surprised? I know that it wouldn't be this bad if I had this fixed, and I know that every day that I drive this truck without fixing it, I'm setting myself up for big, big, big ugly problems.

I love you, man.

Here is more information:

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showth...pi+replacement

ZL1power69 · 09-09-2005, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazes9395

Your welcome....also ZL1 is right on the money with this other stuff too...very advisable to do what he describes, also after your done replacing everything, its a very good idea to do a oil/filter change, since gas can get into the oil, and potentially damage your engine(bearings). Also,(this is stated in other discussions too), when you have it all installed, just before you put the upper plenum back, turn the key to the "ON" position, DON'T try to start it, just "ON" and check for leaks. If everything is done right, you will see no leaks at any point. Its easier done now than putting it all back together and finding out something wasn't done right and its still leaking gas inside. Have fun!

ur also right. forgot to mension this but after i changed the cpi and nut kit i did a complete tune up (oil change, oil filter, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, pcv, etc..). one of my fuel lines had a hole in it so the oil had alot of gas in it and looked like diesel fuel. also after the swap my mpg went from 10 (thats city or highway) to 15 city and 19-20 highway (without cruise control). also engine vaccum jumped from 16lbs at idle to 19-20lbs at idle.

Also when u pressurize the system, cycle it meaning turn the key on for 3 seconds then off then back on for 3, etc. this bleads out air that got into the system while u were replacing the parts. also not a bad idea to replace the 0s sensors because they may have gotten damaged by gas in the exhaust system, which happened to me and i replaced both 0s's. keep an eye on ur cat and muffler also because gas in the exhaust can damage them.

we're all glad to help and hope everything goes well.
Let us know how u made out

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