91 metro engine replace?

[1wife]

91 metro 3 cyl, 5spd has 188K miles started leaking lots of oil about 4 wks ago. Had timing belt and alternator belt replaced 2 wks ago. Wouldn't start last week. Shop said it was flooded and that the compression on the cylinders were 110, 80, and 50 respectively. It still
runs but I figure the next time it goes it will be for good.
How hard would it be to replace this 91 engine with a newer, say 98-00
4 cylinder engine? Or would you advise fixing this one or looking for another 3 cylinder. I like the 5 speed so would like to stay with it.

[Tominator2000]

I was in a very similar situation....look at my posts.

The 'jdm' term you might see means 'Japanese Domestic Manufacture.' Several folks import low milage motors from Japan and sell them in the US. I bpight mine from a business in Chicago. It cost $450 including freight. Took about 7 hours to do the swap and that was taking it easy.

The motor runs great! It uses almost no oil and I put Amsoil in it and will not change the oil for one year. That's over 17,000 miles of daily commuting.

I would not have tried this if there were ANY mechanical problems.

So, I'd suggest the route I took with the Amsoil optional.

[Crvett69]

to put a 4 cyl motor in you would have to replace the wiring harness in car. not worth the hastle. just put a JDM 3 cyl engine into the car. like Tomin said its not a hard job. might also check e-bay for someone near you that sells them

[tude123]

I agree with Tominator and Crvett. I am not a particularly skilled mechanic, with access to standard tools and an engine hoist. I have installed several of these three cylinder JDM engines and have had no trouble installing them in my Metros. A suggestion or two; take a few digital pictures of the engine bay layout to help you with your first swap out. Your engine wiring harness can only go one way and a couple of pictures will help you. Carefully label your vacuum hoses so you can quickly get them back to where they need to go. GROUNDING! There is a ground connect on the back of the throttle body (carberator) and the negative battery post to the transmission. Clean these connections until they shine, both the cable and engine side. I know from personal experience the damage a poor ground connection will do to the wiring of a Metro and it's not pretty... After you have pulled out your old engine and removed the intake manifold, clean the EGR tubes (ports), EGR valve, and modulator. If your EGR ports are clogged (or partially clogged) with carbon, you will not pass emissions. I think its a lot easier to clean all EGR gadgets when they are out of the engine bay than when the engine is in place.

I have seen these JDM engines go as cheaply as $370 (including shipping) on Ebay. You can't beat that. There's lots of sharp folks on this forum who can give you pointers as well. If I can do it, anybody can!

[Crvett69]

91 probably won't have a EGR valve. depending on vintage of JDM engine you get sometimes you can use the intake and exhaust manifold that came with new motor and just change the throttle body. most of the JDM engines come with a carb though and you have to change both manifolds

[1wife]

Thanks for all the help. I will keep my eyes open on ebay for the next couple of weeks. I think with the help of a couple of friends/relatives we should be able to work this out in a couple of weeknight/weekends. Are there any step-by-step instructions or manuals to do this for us first timers? Thanks again for all the help.
Live in Indiana so we don't have to worry about passing emissions testing. One nice thing is that I am still getting 50+mpg even with low compression and oil leak -- haven't located exactly wear it is coming from.

[tude123]

If you are still getting 50 MPG, I would do another compression test on your engine, done by another garage. With compression numbers like 110, 80, and 50 I wouldn't think the car would get up to highway speed. Can you see where the oil is leaking from?

[chickenlips1]

Originally Posted by tude123

If you are still getting 50 MPG, I would do another compression test on your engine, done by another garage. With compression numbers like 110, 80, and 50 I wouldn't think the car would get up to highway speed. Can you see where the oil is leaking from?

I agree with you, I drove to work today and easily got to 60 mph so I have a hard time believing those compression numbers. Haven't really looked hard to where the oil is leaking. My guess is either the oil pan gasket (I don't know why that would start to leak all of sudden) or and you might be able to help me out, behind the timing belt guard -- would that be the main crankshaft seal or what? Thanks for the help.

[Crvett69]

if its coming out front (alt and water pump end) of engine its the front crank seal or front cam seal

[chickenlips1]

Originally Posted by Crvett69

if its coming out front (alt and water pump end) of engine its the front crank seal or front cam seal

It does seem to be from that side of the engine. It is hard to get a light down there either from the top or underneath. I'm trying to wipe all that clean and then see if I can tell where the leak is. Thanks again for your help.

[GeoMetron]

I just recently installed my own JDM engine. It runs very well, especially in comparison to the old engine. But I neglected to change the rear main seal even though it should be standard practice to do so. Now I've got to reinstall the engine on some nice weekend and replace the main seal.

So if you do get the JDM don't do what I did and cut corners.

But on the plus side, if you're a pretty stout person, you don't need an engine hoist. I lifted and installed the engine by hand.

GeoMetron