98 4Runner replaced starter/ignition coils/wireset

[Gerrick]

Help!! I got multiple problems. (2wd 2.7 engine) 98 4Runner.
Starter was clicking, started intermittently. Then I ran into ALOT of water (Houston floods) and truck wouldn't accelerate. Let it sit for a day and it accelerated but staggered sometimes and over 60mph you could feel a 'thump' as if the engine was dying.

I got the starter replaced. Started up fine.
A few days later i got the ignition coils and spark plug wires replaced. (My friend at Firestone hooked it up to a computer and it was misfiring and suggested coils and wireset). Cranked fine and ran fine.

Turned it off and it won't start!!! Just clicking. This was a new starter. Faulty? Battery A+. Hit the new starter and nothing. Cables fine.

I just forked over 450 bucks and I'm a broke college student....FOR REAL.
pLEASE HELP, cuz I'm out of cash and it's DIY from here on out.

[Gerrick]

This problem started a year ago when my battery died. Took it to walmart and got a new one. It wouldn't start after battery replacement. I previously stopped using the keyless remote so I had to use some combo of pressing the valet and disconnecting the battery before it finally started.

Since then every now and then I'd have to fidget with valet button to start. That stopped for months until the starter clicking. Also, I noticed the ignition had to be played with sometimes for the key to turn. And yet, all i here is clicking now. After a new starter, new ignition coils, and new sparkplug wireset.

IF THERE IS A GOD IN THIS FORUM......

[Brian R.]

Give the starter solenoid a couple of raps with a small hammer or wrench and see if that temporarily solves the problem. If so, the starter solenoid contacts are bad, new starter or no new starter. Probably a rebuilt starter...

[Gerrick]

Originally Posted by Brian R.

Give the starter solenoid a couple of raps with a small hammer or wrench and see if that temporarily solves the problem. If so, the starter solenoid contacts are bad, new starter or no new starter. Probably a rebuilt starter...

I rapped it.....nada....nothing. The starter came new from autozone. At least they said it was new. Could the guy have messed something up after he came and put the new coils and wireset? It started after the new starter for days then as soon as the guy put the coils on....nada....nothing.

[Brian R.]

Does you car currently crank and not fire? or not crank, only click

Recheck your battery connections

Do you have a voltmeter?

Double check all the high tension wires for resistance and good connections, check to see that you are getting battery voltage at the primary of the coils.

Are you getting spark at the plugs? If so, how is your ignition timing?

If no spark at the plugs, trace backward until you have voltage.

Check the distributer for cleanliness/dryness/arcs on the cap and rotor.

[Gerrick]

Originally Posted by Brian R.

Does you car currently crank and not fire? or not crank, only click

Recheck your battery connections

Do you have a voltmeter?

Double check all the high tension wires for resistance and good connections, check to see that you are getting battery voltage at the primary of the coils.

Are you getting spark at the plugs? If so, how is your ignition timing?

If no spark at the plugs, trace backward until you have voltage.

Check the distributer for cleanliness/dryness/arcs on the cap and rotor.

My truck only clicks. Yes I have a voltmeter. I'll check and see how to check for resistance....thanks. But where's the primary of the coils? And how do I check for spark at the plugs if it's not cranking? I'm not positive but i'm pretty sure i don't have a distributor. When i was buying the coils they said i have a distributorless engine.

[tc442]

Might try the starter and the hammer trick a few more times...you said your battery was A+...have you taken it out to have it tested? sounds like one of the 2 (starter or battery...maybe connections) good luck

[Brian R.]

If you don't crank, don't worry about the ignition system. Concentrate on the starting current.

First make sure your battery is charged and not drained.

Check the voltage drop across all the high-current connections and cables. In other words, turn the key to start and test voltage on the battery post and the cable connection, then check one end of the positive cable and the other. One end of the negative cable against the other end. The cable connection on the block vs the block, etc. All these differences should be very small. If you get a cable or connection with a large voltage drop, there is your bad connection or cable.

[Gerrick]

Originally Posted by Brian R.

If you don't crank, don't worry about the ignition system. Concentrate on the starting current.

First make sure your battery is charged and not drained.

Check the voltage drop across all the high-current connections and cables. In other words, turn the key to start and test voltage on the battery post and the cable connection, then check one end of the positive cable and the other. One end of the negative cable against the other end. The cable connection on the block vs the block, etc. All these differences should be very small. If you get a cable or connection with a large voltage drop, there is your bad connection or cable.

OK...I'm going to go check for voltage drop. The battery was tested at the shop. Thanks guys for checking back! I already missed school today, hope not tomorrow as well....

[Gerrick]

Ok, checked the battery myself. It reads 12.53V. I thought it should be 12.6 to 12.8..? Anyways, I really don't know how to check the voltage drop anywhere else with the meter so if you'd be so kind to give me a pointer on how to use the meter and where to check it...do i disconnect the cables?...yes I'm a newbie but I do read! I'll be checking the web to see how if none replies fast.

[Gerrick]

OK!!! Checked the battery with the ignition in the 'on' position. Not 'start' cuz it won't remain in that place after attempting to start.(I didn't know that) Anyways, the battery then measured 12.25V. I checked the posts, then the clamps, 12.25V. I then checked the negative(right i assume) post to the large wire leading under the starter, 12.25V. Then I checked the positive(left) post to the small wire with a insertable clamp on the end of it, NOTHING. Switched from that clamp to the right and nothing as well. Is this bad?
Also, I thought 12.25 wasn't enough anyway. OK, you brought me this far.....

[4Wheel]

Look a SURE way to chase down the starting problem is to go to the starter FIRST! There, connect a wire to the small push on connector and apply 12v to it. There SHOULD be at least an audible "click" of the solenoid engaging. If that does not happen then you have a bad solenoid or bad ground. Toyota does a good job of insulating the motor and tranny in rubber mounts and on the V6’s if there is not a good ground to the engine not even the solenoid will energize.
So, once you apply 12v to the solenoid directly what should happen is the starter should turn over the engine.
If you hear the solenoid energizing but no starter motoer at that point then most likely the contacts inside the solenoid. You can check this for sure by using a heavy guage wire at least 10g and touch the terminal lug opposite the battery lug, JUST the starter motor should spin without engaging the engine.

But since you say it is all new I would expect that applying 12v to the small connector will turn it right over but at least you can eliminate the starter.
The starter and solenoid will actually operate on pretty low voltage even below 10v.
If the starter works in this manner you really need to pick up the factory manuals for the correct wiring diagrams, NOT Haynes they are the worst when reprinting Toyota diagrams.
Now you can move on to your ignition problems.
Good Luck

[Gerrick]

The starter is making a loud click when I run the wire to it. Same as when I leave the push on connector on and try to start it. Man, I'm stumped. If the starter is getting juice and then only clicking....what now? Remember, this started AFTER a guy came in days after the new starter was installed and installed new ignition coils. How to check those...if i need to at least.

[Brian R.]

My bad, if you are only getting a click in the solenoid, then you are not getting enough current flow to check connections by voltage drop.

Can you try a jump start with another vehicle or battery? It is possible your battery has discharged. I am still sceptical of the state of the battery as well as the starter you bought.

Not many students will buy a new starter. If it is rebuilt, then there is a reasonable chance the contacts weren't replaced and you have bad solenoid contacts.

[Brian R.]

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=338559