taurus transaxle warning light

[vrabelaj]

2000 taurus se w/20K miles, transaxle warning light begins to flash while driving at highway speeds only (w/auto climate control on, I think -- at least the last 2 times it happened, shutting off AC or heater allowed me to drive on w/o the warning light coming on again). I stop and restart the engine and the light is off. May come on again in a few miles or not for a long time. No noticeable shifting or driving/operational problems.
Does it in D1 and in D. I'll have to take it in to get checked but want to be knowledgeable in order to save a mega-buck diagnostic that fails to address/correct the problem.

[jlb1000]

It means that the torque converter in not locking up. If you don't know what that means, don't try and fix it yourself.
Jim Butler, Certified Ford Technician, Los Angeles

[shorod]

Welcome to the forum!

The Check Transaxle light will flash if the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) sensor reads an over temp condition (>300 degrees F), or due to other sensor inputs. Check the transmission fluid condition to see if it seems burnt (strong odor, discoloration). If so, you'll want to get the fluid and filter changed. There are varying opinions on the benefits of flushing the system. If the system has not been well maintained, the general concensus seems to be to avoid flushing the system.

There are multiple solenoids in the transmission that could be sticking and not working as intended which could cause the flashing light.

You could also have an indication of slip based on the input shaft speed sensor to output shaft speed sensor ratio. This could be due to a faulty sensor or a slipping transmission or, as jlb1000 suggested, a torque converter that is not locking up when requested.

Your best bet would be to watch someone connect their professional diagnostic tool to the OBD-II port and scan the transmission computer for codes. The tool should explain what the codes are, and you can report back here with the codes for further suggestions.

Did the engine speed (rpms) change when the light started flashing? At highway speeds, what was the engine speed at a set cruising speed (ie: 2500 rpm at 65 mph)?

There is an electronic tie between the A/C clutch and the transmission. Per the service manual, "Air Conditioning A/C Clutch An electromagnetic clutch is energized when the clutch cycling pressure switch closes. The switch is located on the suction accumulator/drier. The closing of the switch completes the circuit to the clutch and draws it into engagement with the compressor driveshaft. When the A/C is engaged, electronic pressure control (EPC) pressure is adjusted to compensate for the additional load on the engine." This EPC is controlled by a solenoid, so you may have an issue with the solenoid or associated regulator valve.

-Rod

[alexane]

I have found that if I start out driving in overdrive instead of drive, and stay there for the length of the drive, the transaxle light does not come on. If I start out in drive, the light comes on about 15 minutes into the trip. Maybe not a long term fix, but it works for me.

[Millermagic]

... But if the light is coming on there is a problem.

[mwt47]

There should be some codes stored for the tranny if the light came on.

Did it go into OD when the light was flashing

Mike

[HEdwards2007]

I've got a 2002 Taurus with 260,000+ miles on it and I get the same thing with the flashing transaxle warning light at random times. What also is confusing is that when I stop at a red light or stop sign the car will start stuttering like it is trying to die and the RPM gauge will start jumping up and down slightly. If I let it sit and idle like this it will eventually start running smooth and then go back to doing it. It does not do this when it's in Park or Neutrel and also does the same thing when in reverse. I've already replaced the fuel pump and filter, transmission filter and fluid, 2 of the O2 sensors, and the IAC valve. I have a throttle positioning sensor on hand but had a hard time removing it because I couldn't get the two retaining screws loose with a regular screwdriver. If someone else possibly has any ideas it would be greatly helpful. I really don't have the funds to take it some place and get a diags test ran on it but will do it if that's best at this point. Thanks for any help.

[shorod]

Originally Posted by HEdwards2007

I've got a 2002 Taurus with 260,000+ miles on it and I get the same thing with the flashing transaxle warning light at random times. What also is confusing is that when I stop at a red light or stop sign the car will start stuttering like it is trying to die and the RPM gauge will start jumping up and down slightly. If I let it sit and idle like this it will eventually start running smooth and then go back to doing it. It does not do this when it's in Park or Neutrel and also does the same thing when in reverse. I've already replaced the fuel pump and filter, transmission filter and fluid, 2 of the O2 sensors, and the IAC valve. I have a throttle positioning sensor on hand but had a hard time removing it because I couldn't get the two retaining screws loose with a regular screwdriver. If someone else possibly has any ideas it would be greatly helpful. I really don't have the funds to take it some place and get a diags test ran on it but will do it if that's best at this point. Thanks for any help.

From your description, it sounds like you have a torque converter clutch that is not allowing the lock-up converter to fully disengage. That would explain the flashing transaxle lamp as well as the shudder when coming to stops.

-Rod

[HEdwards2007]

Originally Posted by shorod

From your description, it sounds like you have a torque converter clutch that is not allowing the lock-up converter to fully disengage. That would explain the flashing transaxle lamp as well as the shudder when coming to stops.

-Rod

Is there possibly an easy and cheap fix for this? If so, what would it be?

[rdh2]

Originally Posted by HEdwards2007

Is there possibly an easy and cheap fix for this? If so, what would it be?

When my '02 had the problem with the torque converter clutch not disengaging, it turned out to be a stuck valve in the valve body. $260 + a weekend of my time and it was fixed.

[shorod]

I think rdh2 is right on here. From similar issues with other products, once the valve/solenoid starts to stick, the only reliable fix is to replace it. If you catch it before it starts sticking, there are additives that may eliminate or at least reduce the liklihood of sticking.

I'm far from familiar with transmissions in general, so there may be others that can expand on rdh2's comments and possible inexpensive fixes for this application.

-Rod

[rdh2]

On my '02, the valve was "hung up" on a small ridge of material on the valve body. I was able to free the valve once I removed the valve body, but due to the bore damage, I replaced with an overhauled valve body.

Lucas transmission additive may be something to try. Since there are only 20,000 miles on the trans, it's possible just a sticking solenoid or valve. The additives in Lucas may dissolve any deposits. It does not take a very big piece of debris to foul up a transmission with it's small passages.

[HEdwards2007]

I added a bottle of Lucas to my car yesterday after it started really messing up after we had just taken it to a friend of the family that is a mechanic. His diagnosis was that it's the torque converter (like you all mentioned) or the actual transmission itself. I'm assuming it's cheaper to replace the torque converter than having the entire transmission rebuilt??

[rdh2]

Originally Posted by HEdwards2007

I added a bottle of Lucas to my car yesterday after it started really messing up after we had just taken it to a friend of the family that is a mechanic. His diagnosis was that it's the torque converter (like you all mentioned) or the actual transmission itself. I'm assuming it's cheaper to replace the torque converter than having the entire transmission rebuilt??

Have you had the computer checked for any codes? Trouble codes can help pinpoint the problem area.

The diagnosis of a torque converter may not be entirely accurate. If a valve is sticking in the valve body, the torque converter may stay locked, but the root cause is the stuck valve. Before doing high dollar parts replacement, I would want to have the problem pinned down to a specific component.

Replacing only the torque converter will be cheaper than a rebuild of the transmission.

[shorod]

Originally Posted by rdh2

Replacing only the torque converter will be cheaper than a rebuild of the transmission.

Unless, like you mentioned, the torque converter isn't the real problem. To get to the torque converter, the shop will be removing the transmission from the car anyway. If they replace just the converter and reinstall, then find there is a different internal issue, they'll be pulling the transmission again. I'm not sure on the Taurus, but the locking converter does not necessarily require an entire torque converter, but the electronics for the locking mechanism.

The valve body could be replaced without removing the entire transmission. But certainly, take the time to diagnose the problem now. Like rdh2 mentioned, get the codes read. This may cost you a small amount of money now, but could potentially save you buckets in the long run.

-Rod