New Starter Will Spin - Won't Engage

[ChevyMan1989]

I just got a new starter for our traverse and installed it but it wouldn't engage the flywheel. It spins just fine but won't crank engine.

Here is a list of what's happening;

Starter power wire has 12v and starter spins freely
Starter solenoid connector has 12v when key turned to start
Starter solenoid kicks out gear perfectly (Bench Tested)

Do these traverses require some sort of shims for the starters or something? All I can think of is that the gear is missing the flywheel or somehow the solenoid isn't pushing out the gear as it should when the starter is in the car( works fine on a bench).

Any thoughts?

Thank you

Adam

[maxwedge]

Sounds like wrong starter, or teeth missing on the ring gear.

[ChevyMan1989]

Well I checked teeth they look good. I have tried both old Starter and new starter (they are identical) so I know I have he right Starter.. Could I have not aligned it right somehow? I didn't think that was possible on newer cars but who knows

[maxwedge]

What was wrong with the old one?

[ChevyMan1989]

Nothing.. I made a stupid assumption thinking the starter was bad, ordered one, took it out and decided to test the old one. It was good. The battery was the issue. I replaced the battery put the old starter in and it would just spin now and wouldn't engage. So I put the new one in and t did the same thing. I have no idea what could have changed but the starter never had an issue engaging until I took t out?

[Blue Bowtie]

And the teeth on the flywheel/flex plate are intact?

[ChevyMan1989]

Thanks for the replies guys. Yes the flywheel looks great. Everything looks just fine and everything was contacting/engaging just fine before I took the starter out, it was just weak like the starter was going out. Now somehow it's just not engaging.

[Blue Bowtie]

Best guess is that there is an alignment or spacing problem with the starter/pad on the block.

It is important to use starter bolts, not common hardware to assure that there is no unnecessary clearance which can allow the starter to move. Also, some replacement or remanufactured starters will require shims for proper alignment/spacing.

[Tech II]

When you took the old starter out, were there any shims?

If none, and you have good clean connections at the starter, it should engage....

Any corrosion at the battery terminals when you replaced the battery?

You say you have 12 volts at the starter....do you have at least 10 volts at the starter with the key in the crank position?

Have you checked the ground connection on the block where the negative cable attaches?

[ChevyMan1989]

That's what I keep resorting back to is that there must be spacing or an alignment issue. I did not notice any shims when I took it out. Just so we're on the same page I am using the old starter and have returned the new one.

There were no corrosion at the terminals on the battery.

I have cleaned all connections at the battery, fuse panel, and the starter. Seems to have a great connection.

Yes I have a full 11/12 volts still while key is in on position and I have the same on the solenoid connector when cranking.

I have not been able to find the ground cable from the block though. Do you know where it is?

[ChevyMan1989]

At this point I am completely baffled. I can't understand what the hell is going on. I measure the distance inside to contact the flywheel and measured the distance from the mounting point to the gear on the starter and they match up perfectly so no shims should be needed. It should at least be contacting each other slightly but they don't even touch.

I retested all connections. I installed the starter and tested solenoid by only installing that plug and it popped out the gear by using the ignition just like it should. I reconnected the power wire for the motor and it spins just like it should but it will not contact the flywheel!!!!!!!

*** UPDATE:

I'm hearing a slight click while holding it down to start. Almost like the click/pop of the gear popping out. Maybe it's not holding out? It did when all I had connected was the solenoid though. It would pop out and stay out as long as I held it there.. any thoughts?

[Blue Bowtie]

The solenoid must be retracting it full stroke in order to close the contacts for the starter motor main power. If the alignment is off it will compress the spring on the bendix and allow full solenoid travel either way.

[ChevyMan1989]

Any ideas?

[ChevyMan1989]

Does the engine block ground to the frame? If so where is that ground at?

[Blue Bowtie]

There should be a negative battery cable bolted to the block, head, or intake. That connection is critical for proper operation of several systems, not the least of which is the starter. You'll be looking for Item 17: