Fuel prob. - need an expert! plz, ty - Page 6

tirion · 08-13-2006, 10:01 AM

So.. let me try to understand this right.. I need to take off the sensor itself (held on by the plug and 2 bolts).. and then.. what's left inside is a slot- looking tab that turns clockwise.. is that the part that needs adjusting? If so, how exactly (sorry - remember I'm not a mechanic or even close :P) do I do that? When I slip the TPS sensor on and off of this slotted piece, it only can go on one way and before aligning the 2 bolts I have to rotate it clockwise a few degrees. Is there a way to adjust the slot piece itself before adding the sensor onto it? And if so, how do I know how far.. just do it until the code goes away?

Thanks for your patience guys. It's frustrating, but I'm still hangin' in best I can ..

corning_d3 · 08-13-2006, 05:01 PM

The TPS signal wire could be broke.. Looks like the blue wire leaving the TPS on my diagram..

I believe your TPS is non-adjustable..

Supergumby · 08-13-2006, 07:48 PM

The holes that the screws go through the TPS itself are oblong (slotted), so that the whole sensor can rotate a few degrees in either direction, and set the idle voltage.

Loosen the two scres slightly, and rotate the sensor a little to get about .5 on the signal wire at idle.

tirion · 08-14-2006, 01:04 PM

OK.

Loosened screws and tested with voltmeter in each position it could wiggle and did get the .45ish +/.075 with throttle closed fully. And scrolled smoothly up to 4.25 +/- .25 fully open. Did this with both the old TPS and the NEW TPS with the exact same results. Disconnected the battery and cleared the code 22. Upon cranking, the code comes back.

The car seems to be running fine at idle and while giving throttle. But when I put the car into gear is where it stumbles and runs badly.

Driving, the power brakes seem to have no power until the rpms are higher. I have checked all the vaccuum lines I can find, both spraying barb cleaner at all junctions (with no idle increase or decrease) and by removing and checking manually for a good suction (which they had).

So... if it SAYS code 22.. and it ISN'T the TPS... what in the heck is going on???

Thanks in advance!!

tirion · 08-14-2006, 01:05 PM

And I did inspect the wire plug and harness and wires back to the firewall inside the harness.. and they looked very good with no frays, etc..

tirion · 08-14-2006, 01:13 PM

After doing more research online.. it seems it has to be a vacuum leak.. someone said the spark plug gaps too.. but I haven't changed those recently (tuneup about 6 months back).. but I did remove the distributor cap and rotor button to change out the ignition module (THANKS FOR THAT TEST!!!

).. could anything in there have been bumped loose to give this code?

And.. the vacuum issue: there is a small metal oblong (flying saucer looking thing on the left hand side of the engine, looking from top down from the front of car, that a vacuum hose connects to. is this the source of the vacuum pressure (plunger)? if so, could this part be going out or off..?

Thanks!!

tirion · 08-14-2006, 01:29 PM

More reading shows maybe the plug itself needs taking apart/replacing... shrug. ??

tirion · 08-14-2006, 01:31 PM

Oh yeah.. on this model 92 305 5.0L TBI, the TPS is supposed to be non adjustable (TPS cannot be adjusted, the TPS has an auto zeroing feature.).

Blue Bowtie · 08-14-2006, 04:07 PM

You can remove the TPS connector and inspect the pins and sleeves. If there is a connector problem, replacements are available.

Supergumby · 08-15-2006, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tirion

Oh yeah.. on this model 92 305 5.0L TBI, the TPS is supposed to be non adjustable (TPS cannot be adjusted, the TPS has an auto zeroing feature.).

My mistake - that's right.

Like Bowtie suggested, look at the connector terminals. make sure they're not 'bored out' from using test leads on them. If the terminals look OK, lightly tug on the wires on the TPS connector, make sure the wires haven't broken inside the insulation. The wire will stretch when you pull on it iff it's broken inside.

If that's all OK, connect the voltmeter back up to the connector with it plugged into the TPS. Turn the ignition on, and watch the meter while you slowly move the throttle to ful open and closed. Make sure the voltage doesn't drop out anywhere (go below idle voltage). If it does, that TPS is bad.

But look closely at the connector first.

Sorry for the bad info.

tirion · 08-16-2006, 06:13 PM

Will do.. been away from car last day or so..

tirion · 08-28-2006, 01:30 AM

WoooHoooOOOOOO!!!

It was the TPS plug afterall!

I have been looking for a replacement, but none of the salvage yards have had one compatible in yet.. and didn't want to order parts from Chevy - figured I'd have to buy the whole wiring harness..

So.. I just went outside at 1am and rolled up tiny pieces of aluminum foil and packed each of the 3 terminals about halfway full (not too tight).

Smooth as ever! No CODE 22!! No idle up and down.

So... I'll eventually get around to replacing the plug. But for now, my cracker engineering seems to do the trick!

THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP AND SUGGESTIONS!!!

I could NOT have done it without this forum and the people that responded and helped me.

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!

silicon212 · 08-28-2006, 02:02 AM

Glad to see that you got it figured out.

1986Z28 · 08-28-2006, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue Bowtie

Very simply, NO domestic GM vehicle uses the auxilliary oil pressure switch as a "fuel safety shut-off" device. Fords have a kinetic switch designed to stop fuel pump power in the event of a frontal crash. Many imports have similar systems. GM just simply does not.

do new fords not have and inertia fuel shutoff, to kill pump power in a rollover, or are we talking about the same things?

corning_d3 · 08-28-2006, 01:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blownalcoholboy

do new fords not have and inertia fuel shutoff, to kill pump power in a rollover, or are we talking about the same things?

I believe they still do. They've been using them for a pretty good while now. My '88 Ranger GT had one. Pretty easy to kill the fuel pump power for various reasons... Just smack it with a rubber hammer. I wonder why GM hasn't installed any fuel cut-off devices?

EDIT: I've seen a few Ford's with intermitent drivability problems that turned out the switch had been tripped, but they still ran. If you want to get away from the law, just go down a washboard gravel road, they'll kill the pump every time..

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