I just don't get it

[Didymus]

I have this weird theory that dust sinks into enamels, but floats to the surface of automotive urethanes and synthetic lacquers, like Tamiya TS. Sometimes you can just brush specks off the dried surface.

The ONLY dust problem I have is with Alclad black undercoat. It dries very slowly, so it does accumulate some dust. Any specks will be visible through the "chrome" final coat, so I carefully remove them before chroming. OTOH, Spaz Stix spray chrome seems to stick to the Alclad better than it does to other glossy blacks.

With the lacquers and urethanes, dust is rarely a problem in the dry climate where I live. The urethanes are especially good: you can literally watch them dry - and not get bored because it happens so fast! Mixed thin enough, the urethanes cover well and require virtually no sanding before clear-coating.

Tamiya and U-POL clearcoats also dry very fast, so dust isn't a problem with them, either. With those, I think it's best to let the first coat dry overnight. Lightly sand off any dust specks in the morning, and apply a second coat. That way, even if you get some specks in the second coat, you can sand and polish them off, and they'll be gone without a trace.

I'm off to Michaels to buy a parts cabinet!

[Macio4ever]

Yes, dust particles can drive you crazy. In my case I have few rules which hepls a lot:

1) Separate areas for sanding/parts preparation, painting and drying
2) Drying booth is a must - whatever it is - cardbox, dehydrator
3) I clean (vacuum) all modeling areas few times on every build
4) I clean painting booth every few painting sessions
6) I use plastic toolboxes for painted and unpainted parts
7) I try not to touch parts with bare fingers and use cotton gloves for final assembly.

I also believe that painting booth with fan helps so much that I would strongly recommend to build or buy one.