'92 Park Ave Steering Column Delima

[Don B]

Good Morning All. I have just finished replacing the lock cylinder (second time in 6 months). This time I was about 75 miles from home. I had left my '92 PA at my daughters house until I could get the cylinder and a new vats key cut. Before I could get back my Son inlaw decided to do me a favor and remove the steering wheel for me. unfortunitly he thinks he's a mechanic and pulled the wheel off without a puller. When I got back, and got my blood pressure under control, I removed the retainer ring that keeps the steering wheel lock assembly in place, removed and replaced the old lock cylinder (complete with pulling the wires and connecting into the wireing harness). When I went to re-assemble the column I found that the upper shaft had "dropped about 3/8's of an inch and the upper bearing looks funky. I can't keep the shaft up and get any retainers in place. I was pissed and "hogged" it back together with only the nut holding the wheel on the spline. Now I'm home and have to figure out what damage the dope did. Does anyone have access to a diagram and or video (that I won't have to pay for)?

[Blue Bowtie]

There is a round wire retaining ring (much like the one used on the lock plate) in the upper bowl of the column. This retainer holds the upper steering shaft bearing in position and may have been popped out or damaged in the attempted removal of the wheel. You should also verify that the preload spring (under the horn sounder ring) is properly installed and undamaged.

Remove the wheel (again) and SIR clockspring (if equipped). Remove the lock plate, ignition lock cylinder, and turn signal switch assembly. With the turn signal switch out of the way you should be able to see the upper bearing and lock ring, and it you are fortunate you may be able to reseat the bearing and assemble it correctly with the lock ring.



If the repair cannot be performed easily without further disassembly the electrical connector for the turn signal assembly will need to be disconnected from the turn signal switch on the lower end of the steering column to allow complete removal of the switch and harness. Remember to tie a string to the connector before sliding it out of the steering column jacket and plastic trim cover/guide so that you can install the harness more easily during assembly.

Remove the multifunction (turn signal) switch cover and switch lever. Disconnect the electrical connectors from the wiper switch and cruise control.

Remove the upper column bowl trim piece. That should expose the rack and sector gears on the left side of the column so you can remove the ignition switch linkage rod from the rack and finger and also remove the linkage rod for the headlight dimmer switch.

With all that out of the way you can remove the return spring for the tilt mechanism and pull the pivot pins. A long 8-32 screw and nuts with a small socket as a drift work well for this.



With the pivot pins removed the tilt lever can be disengaged and the upper column should pull outward. Tilt the universal joint to disengage the steel loop from the nylon ball, and remove the upper column housing. With the housing removed you can remove the upper steering shaft and repair/replace the bearings as necessary. Pay attention to the spacers in the bearings and their positions.



While you are there, make sure the tilt support bracket screws are tight. They tend to work loose over time and make for a loose column. If yours are loose, remove one at a time, apply some LocTite 242, and install them to 8 ft/lb.



Take some photos along the way for reference, and so that later (after you've resolved the problem) you can describe WHY we use a puller to the offending "helper" you have. He/she will never learn without good instruction and understanding.

[Don B]

Thanks for the diagram. I will have to see if I can do something withe the upper bearing and keep the splined shaft up high enough to get the retainer ring snapped into the groove. If I can manage that, the spring washer and snap ring should go in also. Thanks for taking the time on a Sunday morning, the diagram is much better than trying to visualize how things shoud be. I'm not thrilled with having to take the lock cylinder out again, but I do need a clear view of the bearing and how I might get it re-seated.
Don B.