94 Camry....won't start....no fuel to cylinders

[jdmccright]

If you were getting fuel to the cylinders, you'd be able to smell fuel from the exhaust pipe.

A stuck injector (possible) would result in a rough running engine. All four sticking or failing at once? Improbable.

I'd concentrate on the cap, rotor, and coil...electrical components that supply ALL of the cylinders, not just one or two. Coil failure symptoms can be misconstrued as running out of fuel...it just stops running...and can happen anytime. Mine crapped out at about 170k miles...left me dead in a parking lot with snow coming down.

[Brian R.]

Originally Posted by clampjockey

the fire was kinda yellow looking, but they all had fire, and fired in sequence (at different times). wouldn't my plugs be wet if my ignition coil was my problem?

Not necessarily. There is a delay before which the injectors don't open. Also, the gas delivery from injectors is very fine and may be mostly swept out the exhaust. If you didn't crank a long time at any one time, your plugs may be pretty dry and no smell out the exhaust.

Something to consider.

[clampjockey]

well, i can't see it being the coil as i have fire at all plugs, plus they fire at different times, plus i don't smell any fuel in the exhaust, or see any on the plugs when i pull them out, the car doesn't give the slightest kick when turning over, just whirls steady. but just for shit an giggles, i'll swap out the distributer and plugs, though i'm sure this can't be the problem. i think first maybe i'll squirt some fuel into the cylinders then see if it'll run, if it does, that would eleminate it being an electrical problem wouldn't it?

[Brian R.]

Squirting fuel in the cylinders may be a bad idea...
I would just replace the distributor and see what happens. I doubt the plugs are that bad.

Fire at all the plugs means nothing except you have an electrical connection to all of them. Your spark sounds weak. However, it is your time, your car and we have no vision beyond the keyboard. Do what you think is best.

[Mike Gerber]

I have to agree with Brian on both counts.

First, your spark does appear to be weak from your previous description. It is not necessary to change out the whole dostributor, only the coil itself. I wouldn't be surprised if that fixes your problem.

Second, don't squirt gas into the cylinders. That is not a good idea. If you want to check to see whether you have a no fuel problem, just remove the ducting leading to the throttle body and squirt some carb cleaner in there. Then reattach the ducting and try to start the car. If you now get the car to sputter when you previously got nothing before, you have varified that you have a no fuel problem.

My vote is still for the coil being the problem.

Mike

[hueroloco]

if you're getting fuel and it's not starting, the plugs should be wet

[clampjockey]

i'll swap it out tomorrow and let you know. i assume its just as easy to swap the whole distributer than just the coil.

[clampjockey]

well Brian, my hat's off to you.
swapped out the distributer and it fired right up. i couldn't believe it. anyways, i want to thank everyone for all the help and advice.

[Brian R.]

You're welcome

[clampjockey]

sorry for hijacking my own thread, but what should the timing be set at after swapping the distributer. the car seemed to be a little hesitant and harder on fuel, when i checked the timing it was around 12-13 degrees BTDC, i adjusted it to 5 degrees BTDC and it seems to work better but i can't tell if its any better on gas. but since then, i was talking to a friend who said he's pretty sure they are supposed to be timed in the 15-20 degree range BTDC. is this right? 15-20 degrees sounds like a lot to me. the only other time i remember timing a vehicle i think it called for 4 degrees BTDC.

[Brian R.]

See pages IG-19 to IG-20 in the '94 Camry manual stickied at the top of this page. Timing is normally 0-10 deg BTDC. Set at 10 deg BTDC at idle with TE1 and E1 terminals shorted.

[JennyDee]

For future reference, I was looking at my 95 2.2 for the check connector referenced and could not find it.
'The check connector is located near the air cleaner. Connect the terminals labeled FP and +B."

Where is this connector located? I had a fuel pump failure a few weeks ago and after process of elimination it was the fuel pump, but I could have found it quicker if I could have tested it from under the hood. Also, I had to have the fuel filler pipe replaced at the shop because it was rusted and fuel was leaking near the clamp that held the fuel tube to the body. I think the fuel pipe leak influienced the fuel pump failure.

Originally Posted by jdmccright

I'll agree with Brian...you need enough pressure and fuel flow. But also, I would check the following fuses, relays, and links:

[From Haynes manual]

Fuel Pump Operation
EXCEPT 1MZ-FE ENGINES
Since the fuel pump is concealed within the tank, it is difficult to test directly at the pump. It is possible to test the pump from under the hood, listening for pump function and feeling the fuel delivery lines for the build-up of pressure.

1. Turn the ignition switch ON, but do not start the engine.
2. Using a jumper wire, short both terminals of the fuel pump check connector. The check connector is located near the air cleaner. Connect the terminals labeled FP and +B. Special service connector 09843-18020 or equivalent can be used to perform this test.
3. Check that there is pressure in the hose running to the delivery pipe. You should hear fuel pressure noise and possibly hear the pump at the rear of the car.
4. If the fuel pump failed to function, it may indicate a faulty pump, but before removing the fuel pump, check the following items within the pump system:
   1. All fusible links
   2. All fuses (EFI-15A and IGN-7.5A)
   3. AM2-30A
   4. EFI main relay
   5. Fuel pump
   6. Circuit opening relay
   7. All wiring connections and grounds.
5. Turn the ignition to OFF.
6. Remove the jumper wire.
7. If there is no fuel pump pressure and an inspection of the related electrical components does not reveal a malfunction, replace the fuel pump.

[JennyDee]

I found it!! Not on the air cleaner side, but on the passanger side of the engine and it is the diagnostic port where the FP/B+ jumper is applied. Might be the the 1995 location is different than the other Gen3 engines. Seems that the Autozone FP replacment guide is also showing it on the air cleaner side. In any case, I know where to look next time.