97 Buick Regal LS Ignition Switch

[blonde007]

Aloha,
After searching your forums, I believe that I have found the problem with my car. It either needs a new ignition switch or the contacts needs to be cleaned on it. Can anyone tell me where the ignition switch is located on my Regal LS?
Mahalo

[BNaylor]

Welcome to AF.

The electrical contacts/switch portion is located at the steering column where you insert the key. There are two parts the key cylinder and the ignition switch and harness. About a 1 hour DIY to replace. Let me know if you need a tech procedure for replacement.


Ignition Switch and Harness Assembly

[Mickey#1]

Originally Posted by blonde007

Aloha,
It either needs a new ignition switch or the contacts needs to be cleaned on it.

Sounds like they might mean the lock cylinder.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by Mickey#1

Sounds like they might mean the lock cylinder.

Possibly but I doubt the key lock cylinder is the cause of whatever problem the OP has based on typical symptoms of a bad ignition switch. Speaking of which the OP should post what symptoms he/she is having and see if anyone concurs. Basically, if the key cylinder/tumbler works when key is inserted and turned on/off, the Passkey VATS is good and the chime is heard when key is inserted then the key lock cylinder is most likely good. The contacts that needs to be cleaned due to carboning up and/or arcing over the years is in the black module seen in the pic which has the multiple electrical contacts, cams and springs. Common problem with '97 and up Regals when experiencing multiple electrical problems like DRL, cruise control, headlamps flashing, no defogger, no foglights or the classic HVAC blower motor BMR (blower motor resistor) did not fix it problem. A few of us on the Regal forum have done it and there are a few good old posts concerning detailed removal and cleaning. The key cylinder and ignition switch/harness are two separate parts.

[blonde007]

Thank you for the replies. The problem I am having is the blinker turns off the engine on my car or causes all of the dash lights to blink on and off. I have found numerous threads stating the ignition switch has caused this. Thank you so much for the picture and a tech procedure for doing the job would be appreciated. I will post after I am finished to let you know my results.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by blonde007

Thank you so much for the picture and a tech procedure for doing the job would be appreciated.

Here is a link to an old post you can reference that covers replacement.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...gnition+switch

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

[blonde007]

Originally Posted by bnaylor

Here is a link to an old post you can reference that covers replacement.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...gnition+switch

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Well, thank you so much for the directions, they are wonderful! Got the switch out, but unfortunatley broke the tang off of the plastic cam inside the switch. Waiting to see if jb weld is going to repair it. Decided to try and search for a new switch in the mean time just in case. The site lists one with a floor console and one without....I am confused as to what they mean by that, does anyone know? Also when I took the switch apart, the insides came flying out so I am not exactly sure which 6 holes the contacts go back into. Thanks again for the help.

[BNaylor]

Sorry to hear that but it happens because it is a complex little piece to work on. Your Regal LS should have the floor console. The one without is for the Century model which has the column shifter versus floor.

The switch runs around $100-$125 at the dealer. Here are the AC Delco part numbers. I believe the D1491D is correct.

D1490D SWITCH,IGN & START
Without RPO F/CMPT FLR A/RST CNSL(D06)

D1491D SWITCH,IGN & START
With RPO F/CMPT FLR A/RST CNSL(D06)

[blonde007]

Got the cleaned switch put back in. The jb weld did not hold the plastic tang on the cam, so I have to turn my key back after the engine is started. But at least now the turn signal does not kill the engine, lol! Anyway it appears now that the hazard lights are not working. Wanted to say thanks again for all the help. This forum is great!

[blonde007]

Does anyone know if the location of the contacts inside the ignition switch would effect the hazard lights? When we took the switch apart we were unable to check where the contacts had been, but from the marks on the plastic cam we guessed and now that it is back together everything works except the hazards. We have checked the fuses and all looks good. Any help is appreciated.

[rc77]

On the step in the installation thread that says " remove the plug from the white key release device by inserting a small screw driver and pressing the release tab on it"

Where exactly do you insert the small screw driver into and where is the release tab ?

Thanks

[rc77]

To answer the question I asked above:It turns out I was doing it correctly by taking a precision screw driver and sliding it inside the key release device between the black plug and the side of the key release device that the plug locks into. The problem was I needed 2 people, one to pry up on the release side and one to pull pretty hard on the black plug with a needle nose pliers.

Another step I needed 2 people was when unscrewing and removing the bottom harness from its socket. The place where the bottom harness plugged into was not secure enuff and kept giving to much. Had one person on the passenger side slide there hand through to the drivers side floor and hold the back of the socket where the bottom harness plugs into.

Thanks for the help and the instructions for replacement. Fixed the problem .