1997-2003 Grand Prix Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

[tblake]

Hey guys, There has been a lot of questions lately about outer tie rod end replacement on the forums lately. Here is a short writeup on the procedure to replace the outer tie rod ends on 97-03 Grand Prix's and possible others. This car is a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix SE.

First step would be to jack up the front of the vehicle. I used a floor jack under the front crossmember. Then I put a jack stand under each pinchweld and chocked the back wheels to keep the car from rolling. Then remove both front wheels (19mm socket, extension and breaker bar).

Here is a list of tools you will need....
-Tie Rod Seperator Tool (rent at advance or autozone)
-1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet
-1/2 Inch Drive 18mm Shallow Socket
-1/2 Inch Drive 19mm Shallow Socket
-1/2 Inch Drive 6" extension
-1/2 Inch Drive Breaker Bar
-1/2 Inch Drive Torque Wrench
-3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet
-3/8 Inch Drive 18mm Shallow Socket
-3/8 Inch Drive 16mm Shallow Socket
-3/8 Inch Drive Torque Wrench
-7/8 Inch Open End Wrench
-13mm Open End Wrench
-8mm wrench, or deep 1/4 drive socket (for installing gears zirc)
-Needle Nose Pliars
-Dead Blow Hammer
-Grease Gun



Here is a close up picture of the tool set I rented from Advance. I think it costed 68.00 up front for it, and when I return it, I get all of it back. I just used my credit card so it will be easy to credit back. Make sure you save your reciept becuase I dont think you can return rental tools without it.



We decided to go with MOOG Replacement Tie Rod Ends becuase of the good warrenty and the added grease zirc. MOOG Part number ES3453. They run about $40.00 each.



Next step would be to loosen the Jam Nut on each tie rod end. I'm pretty sure the the nut is metric along with the rest of the car, but my set of metric wrenches stopped at 19mm. I found that a standard 7/8's inch wrench fit without rounding the nut off. Once you have each nut loose, just back them off a turn or two. No sence to overdue it.

From here you can attempt to remove the Tie Rod end to Spindle nut. It is a size 18mm. If the nut comes off without any problems, you need to use that tool you rented from AutoZone in order to pull (or push rather) the tie rod out of the spindle. Here is a picture of how it works. This specific tool needed a 16mm socket.



In my case, my tie rod popped out of the spindle while I was loosening the nut due to the rust on the end of the tie rod stud. Then I had the problem of the tie rod stud just kept spinning instead of the nut coming off.

My solution was to use the rental tool in the opposite direction. I know guys, probably not the right way to use the tool, or not good on the tie rod end, but the tool was messed up before I got it and the tie rod end was getting replaced so I didnt care if I messed it up. Do it this way at your own risk. You know the risks. I just reefed on the tool in order to compress the tie rod into the spindle. This gave enough friction to hold the stud from turning while I worked the nut back and forth to get it off. Remember PB Blaster is your friend. Here is a picture.



Once you get this nut off, you can take the tie rod out of the spindle. I just used a dead blow hammer and lightly tapped it out.



Now you can take the tie rod ends off. Make sure you count how many turns to get each one off. You will want to install the new ones the same amount of turns. In my case, 14 turns to get the passenger side off, and 13 for the driver side. You car will be different.

From there, Take off the old Jam nut, and install the new one. You may have to hold the inner tie rod with an open end 13mm wrench. Pay attention to how the old nut came off, and install the new on in the same direction. Then wipe off the spindle and try and clean off some of the dirt from the inner tie rod end. Then you can screw on your new tie rod end the same amount of turns the old one came off.

Then install the new tie rod end stud into the spindle and tighten it down. Dont forget to put the washer in between the spindle and castle nut. This nut gets torqued down to 35-52 ft/lbs. I set my 3/8 inch torque wrench to 40 ft/lbs and torqued them down. 40 ft/lbs perfectly lined up the castle nut so I could insert the new pin.

Then you will want to tighten down the jam nut. I didnt have "crow's feet" in order to use a torque wrench, so I just snugged mine down. if you have crows feet, the torque spec for this nut is 50 ft/lbs.

Then install the grease zirc. I used a small 8mm wrench, but an 8mm deep 1/4 inch drive socket should work also. Dont cross thread it!





The New tie rod ends come pre-greased, but I also added a little more grease untill it started to come out. Dont forget to grease them at every oil change. With my rims, I am able to reach my hands in and grease them.



Here is a couple pictures of the old tie rod ends. You can tell why they fail, GM doesnt include a grease zirc anymore. Plus they dont have a castle nut with a pin. On the ones without Castle nuts and pins, the nut gets torqued to 22ft/lbs and an additional 115 degrees.





Finally install the wheels and lower the car. The lug nuts get torqued to 100 ft/lbs.

Dont forget to drive it uptown and have an alignment. And your all done! Good Job!

[1MeanRACER]

Thank YOU!!! I've searched all over the internet for help like this and this was the perfect site! The pictures really helped me, not to mention the tool list. Thanx.

[tblake]

Thanks for the comments!

Welcome to AF, Please stop back often if you have any more questions!

[buffalo1980]

The jam nuts and inner tie rod are normally threaded, correct? So I need to turn the jam nut counter-clockwise (to the right) to loosen it (i.e move it away from the end of the outer tierod)?

My jam nuts won't budge. What should I do?

[tblake]

PB Blaster and a long wrench (maybe even a cheater bar). Its a normal nut, think your the motor, looking outwards at the tie rod end, the nut to loosen will need to be turned counterclockwise.

[davebigs]

Great pics and instructions, can easily be applied to other vehicles.