INTAKE GASKET MAIN PAGE, PLEASE POST Q'S&A'S HERE!

[djphix]

Christophe,

Thanks for providing your step by step instructions. The Chilton book says "remove this, remove that" but doesn't explain what everything is.

I didn't have to rotate the engine forward either. I can see where it would have made removing the ignition coil easier, but I'm here by myself and don't really have the means to rotate the engine.

For anyone with rear A/C, if you don't rotate the engine forward, be sure you put the alternator back in BEFORE you put the upper intake manifold back on. Neglecting to do this cost me not getting it done last night. I'm guessing I've got about 2-3 hours left. I thought I was almost done, then realized that the alternator wouldn't go back in, and the Chilton manual's procedure for removing the alternator required rotating the engine forward. At that point, it was easier for me to take the upper intake manifold back off.

All I have left is reconnecting the plug wires to the ignition coil, reinstall the MAP sensor, connecting the wire harnesses and vacuum lines to the back side of the engine, reinstall the passenger side fender support and fuse rack, change the oil and add coolant.

[djphix]

I got it all done last night. It started right up with no obvious leaks.

I bled the cooling system for quite some time and everything seemed fine. This morning on the way to work, the temp gauge was all over the place again, so I'm hoping I still have an air pocket to bleed.

I'd rather be Venture-less than change the head gaskets.

Christophe and Charlie: Thank both of you very much for tips/advice in this forum. It helped a lot.

[KJRich]

Well, I just got mine back from being repaired. Cost $525 including oil, filter, and spark plugs. I figured now was the time to get the plugs changed, even though its only at 80,000 miles. At least its finished for now. I hope it at least runs until its paid off. Other than the intake leak and that damn power door lock wiring getting wet problem, its been a very good van.

['97ventureowner]

Originally Posted by KJRich

Well, I just got mine back from being repaired. Cost $525 including oil, filter, and spark plugs. I figured now was the time to get the plugs changed, even though its only at 80,000 miles. At least its finished for now. I hope it at least runs until its paid off. Other than the intake leak and that damn power door lock wiring getting wet problem, its been a very good van.

$525, wow you got off easy! Most of the people I spoke with have been quoted at least $800 and up ( way up for a few.) And I'm not sure if that included the spark plugs LOL.

[KJRich]

Yeah, I'm considering myself lucky. But I do live in a rural area and this was a private garage. The mechanic was familiar with the procedure and had done several other 3.1/3.4's. He knew things about the procedure I had looked up online, so I felt comfortable going with him. Even my local GM dealer quoted me "only" $650, another private garage quoted me $560.

[DRW1000]

One of the steps is to drain the coolant. One question though how does one drain the coolant? I think it comes out from the bottom of the rad but I can't figure out how to turn the draincock. What I believe is the draincock is a white nylon? plug on the bottom driver's side facing the engine. I can barely get my hands up to it and will be limited to what tools I could use but I can't figure out what to use to turn it? I thought at first it was a butterfly type with the wings broken off but I think I need a sort of screwdriver. Does anyone know what shape (philips, torx, slot.....) and what direction to turn (assume CCW to loosen) and how much to turn it?

[KJRich]

I just jack it up, remove the lower hose, and drain it into a bucket.

[DRW1000]

Yeah I thought of that too...............But last fall when I was going to replace the fluid for maintenance purposes I remember not being about to get that off either. I think it may have been the difficulty in getting to it or that the clamp was rotated such that I could not get it off. In any event I am irritated that I cannot simply open the drain and I wondered if anyone knows how to do it.

[KJRich]

I understand. Those factory clamps are a bitch, you have to use pliers tot get them off, instead of a screwdriver like aftermarket clamps. If I remember, it wasn't that easy for me either, the first time, I had to work the hose back and forth before it came off. But I've had bad experiences with the plastic drain petcocks the newer vehicles have, they use a rubber O-ring, which often breaks when you try to open it. Thats why I switched to removing the lower hose. Older vehicles, which I am more used to working on, had a brass/metal drain petcock, which didn't have rubber O-rings that failed.

[GregA]

Originally Posted by DRW1000

One of the steps is to drain the coolant. One question though how does one drain the coolant? I think it comes out from the bottom of the rad but I can't figure out how to turn the draincock. What I believe is the draincock is a white nylon? plug on the bottom driver's side facing the engine. I can barely get my hands up to it and will be limited to what tools I could use but I can't figure out what to use to turn it? I thought at first it was a butterfly type with the wings broken off but I think I need a sort of screwdriver. Does anyone know what shape (philips, torx, slot.....) and what direction to turn (assume CCW to loosen) and how much to turn it?

Here is a link for a diagram of the valve (below). Looks like a quarter-turn. I am NOT sure what kind of screw driver or wrench you use.

Radiator Drain Valve

I tried to find it on my van, but I believe I would have to take of the plastic shield to get a look at it.

Good luck,

[cdru]

Originally Posted by GregA

Here is a links for a diagram of the valve (below). Looks like a quarter-turn. I am NOT sure what kind of screw driver or wrench you use.

There are several different types of plugs, depending on when the plug was made. Early plugs could use a large blade screwdriver to tighten it, but that screwdriver could not be used to losen it due to the "security screw" like feature. I have no idea why they put it on there. Instead you could use a phillips screwdriver in the center hole. My first plug was like this and was always a bitch to get out and easy to round out if the plug was stuck.

A later revision still could use a large screwdriver to tighen it, but replaced the phillips center hole with a hex hole for an allen wrench. This worked better as it wasn't as prone to round out, but is still a pain. The center hole also had a square area so you could use a 1/4" ratchet. This style plug is the one that you linked too. I've used this style up until I snapped off the little pin last week.

The third style is just like a wing-nut. It just has two large tabs that can be turned by fingers, or more likely a pair pliers.

If you are going to replace your drain plug, expect to remove your radiator. I had to the first time to remove the original plug as it was corroded/stuck in there. There also is a little plastic tab that snaps down when installing the drain plug to help prevent it from coming completely out when you open it. This tab is nearly impossible to see and even more impossible to move while the radiator is in the vehicle.

The picture you show isn't for our radiators though, or at least not my '98. On mine you give it about a 3/8 of a turn clockwise, pulling out as you turn.

[lovinglife]

My venture Van 2002 also have this probelm. I just bought this Feb. And the wanrranty is over just last month. Could you send me stuff how to repair it.
zhaogzhi@yahoo.com. thanks.

[cdru]

Originally Posted by lovinglife

My venture Van 2002 also have this probelm. I just bought this Feb. And the wanrranty is over just last month. Could you send me stuff how to repair it.

Just go buy the Haynes manual. It's less then $30 and it will save you several hundred with just changing the intake gasket alone.

[redly1]

I lucked out and got my gasket changed under warranty. One problem I did have that might be worth mentioning...when I received my van back, it was running rough, and I could hear a vaccum type noise. It wound up being a broken injector o-ring. They replaced them all.

Seems like they should have caught this before returning the van to me. Too many young techs I guess.

[lovinglife]

Good news. My vehicle has been reparied and under warranty. Thank you every body in this forum. I feeel this forum is very good for me.