INTAKE GASKET MAIN PAGE, PLEASE POST Q'S&A'S HERE!

[CREWZN]

Thanks for the update, I'm in the process now. I'll let you know how I make out... I gotta say, GM appears to have packed a lot of stuff in a very small area.

[CREWZN]

hello all, I hope someone can help. I finished the job, with GM kit including the new bolts. All new plugs, wires themostat etc. when the job was done, engine started first crank and ran just perfect. I took a short trip and engine ran fine no leaks no noise.
After about 45 minutes of running as I was driving the van at about 50 mph and I got a smell of something burning and immediately it began to miss fire and the dash service engine soon light began flashing. I got the van home and thought maybe one of the line going to the module pack landed on the exhause manifold. I did find the two wire connector that is plugged into the right side back of the ignition modules was burned though and I though I found the problem. Even after I fixed this problem I still have miss in the engine and it appears it could be something mechanical. I had the code read and it is cylinder 4 missfire. At first I checked the wires etc but now I'm thinking somehow when the wire burned thought it forced an ignition fire at the wrong time and could have done some internal damage? Any ideas of what could have caused this running great to problems so quickly would be much appreciated.

crewzn

[534BC]

Maybe some more details or a new thread. It sounds like you got the job done just fine and has nothing to do with intake leak anymore.

I think checking for spark on all coils would be first thing I did. I can't remember if they are mounted to a "module" ? If so then maybe that module or one coil is ruined ?

[CREWZN]

Thanks for the reply 534BC, I think the fact that the crank sensor line had shorted out and on the exhaust manifold it did some internal damage to the number 4 cylinder. Lots of metalic noise, guess the next step will be to pull it apart again and see if I can see anything there. I just wondered if this ever happened to anyone else while the engine was running. I have never heard of a problem like this but I cannot explain it otherwise.

[syclone1452]

Anyone try the Dorman 615-200 kit?

[CREWZN]

I used the GM kit with the bolts, actually cheaper than the felpro I looked first.

[syclone1452]

I ordered the Dorman 615-200 from Amazon last week. It was $34.83 with free shipping.

When I got the package, the box says 615-205 on it. My receipt says "615-205 replaces 615-200 according to the manufacturer." I did some searching, and it looks like that is true. That kit is nearly $60 on the internet, too.

I just looked on amazon.com, and the kit i ordered from Amazon is now listed as out of stock.

The lower intake gaskets are metal and have a "V" on them. I'm guessing they were made by Victor ???

[mstbone67a]

Hey I just got my Intake gskt replaced for $92 and a friend did for $200 here in KC. Here is my thread
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=885584

[cammin]

Hello all- Long time reader, first time posting. I own a 99 Mailibu with the M code 3.1. Of course the LIM gasket is leaking, second time. First gasket replacement used Fel-Pro gaskets. After reading all 24 pages here and numerous pages elsewhere (gasp), I just have a few questions.... 1. Is the GM gasket number 19169127 appropriate for the M-code engines (non-roller rocker engines, i believe)? 2. I've found a few refences to part numbers and I want to replace all gaskets/o-rings/etc. whilst i'm there. Could someone point me in the right direction for correct part numbers. Have seen part names mentioned here and there, but just want to double check the #s while i'm at it. Thanks for your help. Wish me luck.

[javaswing]

Ok just an update from GM Part #19169127 is still an vaid part, This is the complete IMG set with bolts, cost is $126.50 Canadian. Most GM dealers have it in stock. Local garage has quoted me $600.00 to do the IGM with parts.

I have an 2001 venture with 3.4 litre, 248639 km's on it, Just needing the IMG now, Oil has changed to an choclete brown and tacky, with over heat.

I have also entered into the canadian class action law suit. Even though it will take some time to get the action resolved, I would tell everyone to put thier name in.

['97ventureowner]

Originally Posted by javaswing

I have also entered into the canadian class action law suit. Even though it will take some time to get the action resolved, I would tell everyone to put thier name in.

Not to be discouraging, but the more people who join a class action lawsuit the less money you will get at the end of the case.(And that's after the lawyers take their hefty chunk under the heading of "legal fees"

[javaswing]

Originally Posted by '97ventureowner

Not to be discouraging, but the more people who join a class action lawsuit the less money you will get at the end of the case.(And that's after the lawyers take their hefty chunk under the heading of "legal fees"

Ya I know but at least it give some satifaction. GM should have done an recall an just fix them..

[Sparky1349]

Hey Gang, Long time since I've been on the forum, however I received an email today about the settlement of the U.S. class action law suit. Go to this web site for more information:

http://www.girardgibbs.com/dexcool.html

Looks like GM finally caved and settled, the settlement isn't great for the people who paid the full price of having someone do the repair for them but us DIYfer's will probably recover the parts cost assuming you kept all of the receipts and other necessary documents.

I haven't filled out the forms yet, but I plan to do so soon.

Good luck

Sparky

['97ventureowner]

Originally Posted by Sparky1349

Looks like GM finally caved and settled, the settlement isn't great for the people who paid the full price of having someone do the repair for them but us DIYfer's will probably recover the parts cost assuming you kept all of the receipts and other necessary documents.
Sparky

Actually, I think the ones who paid a garage to do the work might make out better than the DIYer in this case. Reading through all the "lawyer speak" on the proposed settlement, the amount of "refund" going back to the owner is roughly 40% of the total cost of th repair, IF other criteria are met. This includes the time elapsed between the original purchase date and the date of repair,( the amount of "rebate declines in total as the time period gets longer.)Also if you spent over $1500 on the repair and can document it you might be eligible for up to $800, if it was under then the amount drops to $400. I don't believe the average DIYer can include labor charges in their submission, only for parts which can average around $200 or so depending on what you purchased. That is probably why it is stated in the settlement you may be eligible for "$50 on up to $800 for the repair, with $50 the probable payout to many DIYers.

[bigpoppapete]

Does anyone know what the proper torque for the valves are? I did the job but I've found that the valves are out of whack! I torqued the valves to 124 inch lbs. I've seen a few different torques and wasn't sure what the proper torque was?