Rear brake problem

[Vas]

Hi, I have a 96 Breeze. I pulled the right rear brake drum because I heard a grinding noise. Lo and behold, it was worn down to the metal, and the wheel cylinder was shot. I replaced the wheel cylinder, shoes and drum. I had a hell of a time getting the drum on, it seemed to be a bit tight. After repositioning the brakes, and checking the springs and adjusting the brake adjuster for who knows how many times, I was finally able to put the drum on. Now, trying to spin the wheel is really tough, the brakes are retracted as far as they're gonna go, I had 2 friends who are very savvy with cars (way more than i) and they're stumped too.

Another thing I noticed is the rear left brakes have more than half their pads left.

So, we were thinking that maybe this was a manufacturer defect?
The only thing we came up with is maybe I should have the new drum turned down a bit, enough for a good fit. Or leave it as it is and check the brakes a bit more frequently. It seems that if the shoes were maybe a thousands of an inch lower, this problem would go away. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

[theFREAKnasty82]

on most front wheel drive applications, you use more front brake than you do rear. Your problem probably lies in a bad proportioning valve allowing slightly more brake pressure than necessary to be sent to the back brakes.

[bbllr130]

Same problem in my 98. i haven't been able to fix it. i replaced both cylinders too. some please look in to this thanks Shawn

[Vas]

Originally Posted by theFREAKnasty82

on most front wheel drive applications, you use more front brake than you do rear. Your problem probably lies in a bad proportioning valve allowing slightly more brake pressure than necessary to be sent to the back brakes.

Update: I took the Breeze to the shop, after putting on the new brakes on the rear,passenger side. They sanded down the brakes a bit, then it worked fine.

Now it's been about a month, I heard the same grinding noises again. I pulled off the drum and the one shoe is already down to the metal, and the rubber boots on the wheel cylinder is rotted and cracked. (I put a new one on last month) So, to me it looks like the wheel cylinder cracked from the heat, and the brakes are "braking" more on the right rear than the left. What's involved to remedy the bad proportioning valve? Is this a job I can do, or should I just "git 'er done?"

Thanks,
Vas

[kok328]

Check to see if the car has a flex brake line from axle to wheel cylinder. If so, replace.

P.S.- Brake shoes have a long pad and a short pad. Make sure you reinstall the new shoes just as the old ones came out.

[Vas]

Originally Posted by kok328

Check to see if the car has a flex brake line from axle to wheel cylinder. If so, replace.

P.S.- Brake shoes have a long pad and a short pad. Make sure you reinstall the new shoes just as the old ones came out.

problem solved: The left rear wheel cylinder was frozen, causing all the braking to be done on the right. Replaced left wheel cyl. everything's cool

[wiglow]

Originally Posted by theFREAKnasty82

on most front wheel drive applications, you use more front brake than you do rear. Your problem probably lies in a bad proportioning valve allowing slightly more brake pressure than necessary to be sent to the back brakes.

You are on to it. The problem is that the hydraulic fluid is not being allowed to return after the brake pedal is released. The brake shoes remain pressed against the drum for at least 1 to 2 minuets. The proportioning vale could be the culprit or it could be a defective operation of the inlet outlet valves in the Hydraulic Control unit of the ABS system. This information was imparted to me by a Chrysler tech.
I am still trying to get to the bottom of the real cause.
The real kick in the butt is the fact that the proportioning valves only come as a unit mounted to the HCU box at a cost of $3600.
Don't you just love Chrysler?