Yet another Hasegawa Miura

[RallyRaider]

Nice.
Can never have too many Lamborghini's, especially Verde ones.

[drunken monkey]

I'm glad that I'm not the only one with 2 year old unfinished builds in a box somewhere...

I'm also glad that something this beautiful has been dug out.
Goes to show folks, you don't need to ask people for updates; they will come when the time is right.

Lovely looking paint by the way.
Is that the "Twiggy" colour?

[alviga69]

I love that paint job
What color is that?

Cheers

[Lambo003]

Thanks for the comments, guys. . .

Color is Verde Chiaro/Verde Pistachio used on 5064.

Little update.

Got my S27 upgrade set yesterday and slapped the steering column together.







This set awesome and includes parts for both the 400, S, SV and Jota

One thing I didn't like was the absence of a proper thickness of the steering hub once you trim away the old spoke of the steering wheel. I used a shim of polished aluminum tubing of the correct diameter.










Also had to thin the rim points from the back where the spokes meet the rim. Would have looked crappy if simply mounted to the stock trimmed steering wheel.

[gtziaf]

One of most good looking cars ever... Great design.
Interesting color choice.
Great start. Keep modeling...

[cinqster]

Twiggy green...my favourite! Bodywork looks peeerfect.

[prortiz80]

great job with the motor and the wheel almost real

[Lambo003]

Thanks. . .

Movin' along slowly but surely. . .

Removed the rear latch button and drilled through the rear panel. Was scary since the body was already painted.

I then turned a new aluminum piece. I Never like molded in details such as this and thought a polished metal part would look so much better than attempting to foil it. . .










May reduce it a bit more for scale . . . but happy with the results as is. . .

[klutz_100]

Nice touch!

[Lambo003]

Thanks Klutz!. . .

Instrument cluster time. . . . . lol

I didn't like the decals as is and thought they needed to be behind "glass" as with the real gauges.

I made transparencies of the decal sheet as described in my How-to tutorial.

I made a punch set for the gauge faces with quarter inch plexi. You can buy a punch set online but it's about 40 dollars.







I stacked four pieces of plexi together prior to drilling. The top and bottom pieces will help stabilized the drill bit giving you clean, precise holes. Discard these pieces afterwards.

I then drilled in sequence (with a drill press). Drilled #1 hole and inserted a pin (aluminum rod). Drilled #2 hole and inserted another pin. With these points secure I was able to drill out the punch hole with the correct size bit I needed for the gauges (3/16ths).







Remove the bit you used to drill the punch hole from the drill press and grind the stem flat.







The drill bit will act as your punch and all you need to do is sandwich and center your printed gauges and then tap with a hammer. Light tap is all you need and it shouldn't hurt the bit at all. You can use a piece of wood or rubber mallet of you want to protect the bit but, you're not drivin' nails and only piercing thin plastic. . .lol

You can buy an entire set of drill bits and do several hole in different sizes. You can also buy additional metal rod to use as punches if ya don't wanna be bangin' on your drill bits and eventually dulling them.

Great tool for scratch building with out that huge price tag.

Anyway, Here are the resulting gauges. . . They look better than the kit decals and actually look as if they're "under glass".





If you look in the first pic, I also punched out additional clear disks to go on top of the punched out gauge to increase the realism. This was a little bit thicker than the transparency film and will lay completely flat.

Not really necessary but it does add a little more depth to them.

Going to do the center console next in the same manner. I hope they come out as nice as the larger gauges did . . .

[klutz_100]

Cool

I have just been doing a similar effect on my Lotus.

I also have a punch and die set and I have to say it is a great tool that comes in useful at the most unexpected times!

[rollin80s]

nice, like these DYI's. ill be doing this soon, i need to do on for my v-dub build.
build is looking good, what do you use to turn the aluminum pieces?

[Lambo003]

Thanks. . .

It depends on the complexity of the part. Usually a mill/lathe but for smaller simple parts I just use my Dremel or drill.

This is a 1/24th Murciélago shifter turned on a Dremel from 1/8th inch aluminum rod . . .









A steady hand along with something to catch the part is all that's needed.

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by Lambo003

This is a 1/24th Murciélago shifter turned on a Dremel from 1/8th inch aluminum rod . . .

You've got to be freaking kidding!? On a Dremel?!!



Can you share some more details about how you do that? How do you hold the Dremel? What do you use as cutters? etc etc..

[rsxse240]

I know what he's doing, and how. I have used this method to make wheel lips, steering wheels and all sorts of other tiny little details like his shifter and trunk/hood release.

Simply chuck the bar stock into the drill/dremel/lathe substitute, use sand paper, x-acto (#11 hobby knife) blades, what ever fits the part you are turning, and use your imagination.

I LOVE the progress on this build. I've been following it, but just lurking 'till now. Keep up the excellent work!