hub assembly

[stetzz05]

does any one have installation instructions for a wheel hub assembly on a 03 slero?

[rnj]

try a search on hub assembly.

[rnj]

try this, but still search.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...t=hub+assembly

[mathieu]

remove wheel remove and support caliper remove disc remove the drive axle bolt, from behind knuckle remove the 3 bolt that hold the hub&bearing then 2choice use the puller tu pull the hub or use a zip gun or a punch and do it a lil on each corner eventtually the hub is gonna separate and u need to take out the drive axle from the hub&bearing too use the zip gun with pointy tip to push the drive axle in the midle dont hammer it ur gonna screw the axle thread then put the new hub&bearing and reinstall all
and for the drive axle nut torque
Old style: 385 Nm (284ft.lbs)
New style: 235Nm (173ft.lbs)

[BNaylor]

If the OP needs pics just PM me or make a request in this thread since I have a collection covering the complete hub removal and replacement for the Alero.

Keep in mind the published torque figures in the FSMs is for the AC Delco hub which will have 3 new hub to spindle bolts and the new style second design axle nut. Normally aftermarket hub providers publish their recommended axle nut torque based on material composition. See pic below.


AC Delco/GM Hub Assembly Alero


The proper socket size is 36mm for the axle nut. Be sure to use PBblaster on the axle nut before removing. I recommend loosening not removing the axle nut before wheel removal. Also, you will need a long breaker bar if you do not have any power or air tools.





To get the axle shaft off the hub I used the old PAC axle nut from the old hub. Thread nut over a few threads. Then carefully use a hammer by tapping on the axle nut until the axle shaft gives. See pic below.





Old hub removed. Be sure to use PBBlaster on the 3 hub to spindle bolts. This is the hardest and most time consuming part of the job. Removing the 3 hub to spindle bolts. Also, note the wheel sensor wiring harness.





Job completed.

[Wild_Fan]

BNaylor - Thanks for the great pictures. I'm having trouble removing the bearing. The three bolts are really hard to get at with any decent amount of torque. Any tips on tools or suggestions to get those three bolts out? Also in regards to using the hammer on the old axle nut, is that only something I need to do if I don't have a hub puller? I borrowed a hub puller, so I thought I just need to remove the three bolts and then use the puller to remove the hub. Thanks for the help!

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by Wild_Fan

BNaylor - Thanks for the great pictures. I'm having trouble removing the bearing. The three bolts are really hard to get at with any decent amount of torque. Any tips on tools or suggestions to get those three bolts out? Also in regards to using the hammer on the old axle nut, is that only something I need to do if I don't have a hub puller? I borrowed a hub puller, so I thought I just need to remove the three bolts and then use the puller to remove the hub. Thanks for the help!

Welcome to AF.

Yeah those three hub to spindle bolts are a real PITA. Probably the hardest and most time consuming part of the job. GM used threadlocker on the bolt threads during assembly. I used PPBaster penetrating spray on the bolts and let sit a few hours and repeated once I was able to get the bolts to finally break loose and budge. Then slowly but surely work the bolts out small turns at a time. I used a short 13mm 3/8" drive socket (6 point only) and 3/8" drive ratchet along with some short extensions. You have to be careful not to strip the bolt heads. The two lower outer bolts weren't that bad but the one at the top was difficult but as you can see I was able to get the hub off. Also, I was able to get my torque wrench in there as you can see by the pics below to properly torque the bolts per GM specs.

On the hub puller only if you cannot get one. But if you have the right one then it is best to use it. I've done quite a few hub jobs on GM cars and found out that the recommended hub puller was not necessary to get the job done.

Also, it might help to remove the axle from the hub assembly with the hub puller or my method before removing the hub bolts because you may gain some minor clearance to get at those three hub bolts. The axle shaft will push in towards the autotransaxle. Good luck!

[Wild_Fan]

Okay, so maybe I just wasn't patient enough. I used PBBlaster and let it sit for 15 minutes. I was able to get the bottom two, but the top one still didn't budge. I sprayed the top one again just now and I'll wait a few hours before trying again. I haven't really found a good combination of swivels and extensions that allows me to get two hands on the socket wrench. I end up having to use one hand just to keep the socket wrench lined up on the bolt.

Originally Posted by BNaylor

Also, it might help to remove the axle from the hub assembly with the hub puller or my method before removing the hub bolts because you may gain some minor clearance to get at those three hub bolts. The axle shaft will push in towards the autotransaxle. Good luck!

I don't understand what you mean about pushing the axle shaft in through the hub. Anyway, I'll just wait until the PBBlaster has a chance to do it's magic, and report back later. Thanks!

[Wild_Fan]

Yes! A while later (and one bruised palm later) the PB Blaster did the trick and I got the top bolt out. Now when I reinstall what is the torque spec for those three bolts? I know the torque spec for the axle nut, but I didn't see anything listed for those three bolts. Also, do I really need to re-apply the loc-tite? If so, would it be okay to use a lower strength version because I don't want to have to break that bolt free again in the future.

[BNaylor]

Well, that is good news for you. 70 lb-ft.

It is up to you to apply any threadlocker. OK to use the low strength. I used AC Delco hubs which came with 3 new hub bolts and pre-applied threadlocker.

[Morphe]

Hi, I'm new to this forum .. I though it might be the most appropriate place (this tread) to ask this question:

Does anyone as the shematics of the ABS wire harness *( right side)? I know that mine is defective ... but I'm not willing to pay what the dealer is asking. I'm gonna remove mine, and remake one using the same connectors *( or new one if necessary) and high grade wires (insulators, protectors, etc).

It's for an Alero 2000 Gx, with 2.4L engine.

It sounds rediculous ... but I'm sure there's not more than 6$ of wire in this + 10$ of connectors.

Thanks for your help!
P.S.: .. nice job for for the hubs ... last time I did mine was on a mercury mystique .. it tooks 10 tons of pressure on a hydraulic press to remove them!

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by Morphe

Hi, I'm new to this forum .. I though it might be the most appropriate place (this tread) to ask this question:

Does anyone as the shematics of the ABS wire harness *( right side)? I know that mine is defective ... but I'm not willing to pay what the dealer is asking. I'm gonna remove mine, and remake one using the same connectors *( or new one if necessary) and high grade wires (insulators, protectors, etc).

It's for an Alero 2000 Gx, with 2.4L engine.

It sounds rediculous ... but I'm sure there's not more than 6$ of wire in this + 10$ of connectors.

Thanks for your help!
P.S.: .. nice job for for the hubs ... last time I did mine was on a mercury mystique .. it tooks 10 tons of pressure on a hydraulic press to remove them!

Welcome to AF.

I've got the GM Factory Service Manual for the 2002 Alero/Grand Am which may be similar. Are you looking for wiring termination points or point to point wiring? The harness from the hub feeds over to the ABS Modulator which also has the EBTCM module used for ABS and traction control. Located driver's side on the engine cradle/subframe under the inner apron area.

[Morphe]

Originally Posted by BNaylor

Welcome to AF.

I've got the GM Factory Service Manual for the 2002 Alero/Grand Am which may be similar. Are you looking for wiring termination points or point to point wiring? The harness from the hub feeds over to the ABS Modulator which also has the EBTCM module used for ABS and traction control. Located driver's side on the engine cradle/subframe under the inner apron area.

Thanks for your fast reply! I wanted to buy this manual .. but i'm getting a hard time to find a used one on Ebay. I'm looking for the wiring termination points and the point to point wiring. Both will be very usefull when it will be the time to verify the new harness.

If I succeed in making this harness, I will post the complete solution / materials on the tread. *( I will probably make a nice .zip file ).

I will need to remove my harness and calculate to correct length of wire, but having the schematics will make my life easier ..lol.

Thanks a lot again BNaylor!

[Cap'n Evil]

Hey, I am just about to tackle this job myself. I started once, but got held up on removing the brake calipers. I am not able to budge the two bolts from behind. Should I just hit these with that BP Blaster stuff? Also, I was using a socket. I don't have an air gun but would a drill work just as well?

Last question, I suspect it's my right bearing going as the car is pulling to the right, however the noise is louder on the left side.

[BNaylor]

PBBaster works miracles on stubborn bolts. The problem is the caliper mounting bracket bolts have a high torque figure to start.

You can use regular handtools. On the socket make sure it is 6 point. Also, you could use a breaker bar (18"-24").

The rule of thumb on audible bearing noise is replace the bearings in pairs. Noise travels weird in the sub-compact N body chassis and sometimes you really can't tell. Bummer if you replace the one you suspect and it turns out to be the other.

And welcome to AF.