**abs,trac Off Service Vehicle Soon Lights**

[mcgee139]

Hello I live in ontario and last saterday when we had that wet snow i went throught all that slush and the all the lights (listed in the heading) came on and they never went off untill 4 days ago but then the next day the came back on can some on tell me why they are on and how to turn them off thanks

[BNaylor]

It would help to post the year Alero and mileage.

Most likely a bad wheel sensor at one of the hubs, wiring or water intrusion into the electrical connector/wiring to the sensor. It should be scanned with an ABS capable scanner.

[463]

each wheel has a speed sensor it is on the back side of the hub. it has a connector with wires going to each one. the wires have a curve in them before the connector. it is possible that the connector is loose or a wire is broken. thats a common place for a wires to brake on the gm front wheel drives. if it's a broken wire it will need a nice water tight splice on the wire to prevent it from brakeing again.

[mcgee139]

It is a 2001 olds alero 3.4v6 with 134,000kms. I will try to look at that this weekend and let you know what i fnd thanks..

[johnsonwingnut]

I agree with "463" AF Regular.
My daughter has a 2001 Alero 3.4, now has 70,000 miles on it. Last winter the same ABS , Trac Light came and it a bad hub sensor and break in the wire to the sensor was bad. The wire looked fine on the outside but the inside had broken down and was a black "powder" like substance inside.

Fixed with a new sensor and a wire kit for the abs that they were able to order saving on a complete harness change. No problems since. A service tech can diagnose if this is true and which wheel hub or wire is bad. I am sure Michigan winters (salt) are not kind to the sub standard wire provided as OEM.

[vamc]

I agree

[mcgee139]

Had some nice weather this weekend and jacked up the car and found the problem all it was is the wire on the right front wheel pulled out of the harness so it put it back in and then put silcone on it so far so good (knock on wood) Thanks for all you help Im shure that I will be posting soon for this car

[sunday411]

hello,
since I got the same problem as the title said ,
My car is 2003 Alero and it has 106,000 KM.
I visual checked the wires going to the connector
of the sensor and did'nt see any sign that it's broken.
I pulled the connector and measure the resistance of the sensor.
driver side hub sensor=1.051 K
passenger side hub sensor=1.200 K
Is there a problem if the resistance were different from each other?
Also,will there be a serious problem if I will drive the car for at least 3 more days equivalent to 150 kilometers before I have it fix ?

thank you very much
sunday

[463]

Originally Posted by sunday411

hello,
since I got the same problem as the title said ,
My car is 2003 Alero and it has 106,000 KM.
I visual checked the wires going to the connector
of the sensor and did'nt see any sign that it's broken.
I pulled the connector and measure the resistance of the sensor.
driver side hub sensor=1.051 K
passenger side hub sensor=1.200 K
Is there a problem if the resistance were different from each other?
Also,will there be a serious problem if I will drive the car for at least 3 more days equivalent to 150 kilometers before I have it fix ?

thank you very much
sunday

there is no problem other than you will have no traction control or abs. the car will run with out this . 9 times out of 10 the wire will be broke at the lowest point where the most flex ocures when the wheel is turning and the road rash is. when the plastic split lume is pulled back the two wires are coming out of a round black factory coating into the open as to say but still have the normal wire size and shield look unless they have cracks that let in the moisture and salt spray. good luck and keep us posted

[sunday411]

hello,

can not wait anymore for week end,
I jacked up the front side of the car yesterday(Friday the 13th)
and take out the plastic that covers the 2 wires from the sensor connector going to the engine side.lots of water dripped out of the plastic tube that insulates the 2 wires.I cut the plastic tube (looks like heat sink wrap) to have a better look if there's a cut or bare wire that causing the problem.I found nothing.I replaced the heat sink tube wrap that I cut and heat up both ends with heat blower to close the opening and prevent water from going inside.Installed back the wire and started the engine.
In less than 1 minute without moving the car from the jack support,the SVS,ABS,Traction Off lights activated.
So,for sure it's not the wire that causing the problem.It must be one of the speed sensor.But which side do I have to replace?
I went to the automotive supply and bought 2 wheel bearing (front side).
I just want to be prepared.If I replaced the driver side and it's not that side that causing problem,I have another parts for the other side.
If I became lucky and pick the defective part,I can return the other un- used part.
I will start dismantling the wheel bearing assembly today and I'll keep you posted.

[463]

did you get to look at both wires on each side left and right side?

[sunday411]

I did that and did not find any sign of bare or broken wire
that will trigger the SVS,ABS and Trac Off lights.
Since the car was jacked up and all the tires were removed,
I did another test.I measured the resistance of the new and
both sides of old sensors.
new sensor=1.111 K
driver side hub sensor=1.051 K
passenger side hub sensor=1.200 K

I installed back the connector and start the car.
In less than 1 minute,the lights came on.
With the engine still running,I un-pluged the connector of the driver side sensor and measured the resistance and I got the same =1.051 K.

I turned off the engine and installed back the connector.
Now I'll do the passenger side.
Same procedure with the driver side,when I put the probe of my meter to measure the resistance,multi meter measurement got crazy.
I can not get a steady measurement of the previous reading which is=1.200 K.
That's when I decided to replaced the passenger side first.
Installed back everything and start the car,wait for 5 minutes to see if the lights will be activated.Nothing happen then I took the car for a road test for about 50K.The lights did not comeback and the car drives smoothly.The problem is solved.
I would like to thank everyone who help to analyze and solve this problem easier.More power to all of you.

[aznacid]

Hey guys,

I've had the same problems and replaced the driver side HUB hoping my lights would go off, but they didn't

I came to the conclusion to replace the hub due to the fact that the Multimeter did not read any voltage in the wheel sensor itself even with the whole harness hooked up.

Does anyone know the exact voltage and resistance values for the sensor and the wiring harness going into the sensor?

Im hoping with those values I can pinpoint the problem. I could take the easy way out and find an ABS capable scanner, but as I am in school, I think ill do it the hard way first

I will also check the wiring harness for any water, kinked, and exposed wires from defective insulation.

Cheers!

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by aznacid

Does anyone know the exact voltage and resistance values for the sensor and the wiring harness going into the sensor?

Cheers!

Resistance will vary but look for a range of 1000 to 1500 ohms on front wheel sensor resistance. I'll double check the GM service manual. On wheel sensor output it will be an AC signal from 0 millivolts to no more than 100 millivolts as you rotate the wheel.

[aznacid]

Hey guys,

Quick questions. I replaced the drive side hub, but was I suppose to pack grease into the bearings? I just took the part out and installed it with my teacher doing most of the work.

Cheers!