Saturn SL2 won't start-not the starter

My 1997 Saturn SL2 has run so great until now. It has 150,500 miles on it. I drove home Tuesday, parked. Wednesday morning, it would not start. Would not turn over, or make any sound at all. We have determined it is not the battery or alternator, so we thought it was the starter. I got a starter and we installed it yesterday. Turned the key and still absolutely nothing. (same as before.) We've looked at all the fuses and they all look fine, but we switched some around of the same type and still no difference. The headlights, interior lights, radio, and everything work when I turn the key, just no crank. What else could it be? I'm so broke I can't tow it to a car parts place to have a diagnostic hooked up. Any suggestions?
Help!

If your sure the batt is good then I would check to see if you are getting power to the starter solinoid then start looking at clutch switch ignition switch
check fuses as well

First welcome to the boards. Sorry to hear about your car. The good news is that the fix should not be to hard nor expensive. You have eliminated the expensive pieces. There are 3 different switches that can fail or come out of adjustment that will cause a no start condition and your car only has 2.

1 ignition switch (http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/04/b2/00/0900823d8004b200.jsp)
2 neutral safety switch (automatic tranny) or clutch start switch (Standard tranny) (http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/04/b3/96/0900823d8004b396.jsp)

Check out the General Information (http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/19/99/71/0900823d80199971.jsp) on starters and these test procedures (http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/19/99/7c/0900823d8019997c.jsp) also. A quick check of the neutral safety switch is to try to wiggle the shifter in park and in neutral while holding the key in the start position. The only other thing I can think of is a fusible link (wire) that goes from the alternater to the starter.
Good luck and let us know what you find.

Thanks so much for the helpful links and info! I've printed it all out and will take it home to my husband who I hope can figure it all out. :) I'll let you know how it goes!

I have a 97 Saturn SC 2 which is almost the identical problem as the op here. Wont start. It was fine, started every time then I shut it off for maybe 5 minutes, went inside to get someone, came out, nothing. The battery is fine, starter is fine, neutral switch is fine, and we're going nuts here. I thought sure we had an answer with the neutral switch but nope.
Any other thoughts???:banghead:

Check the starter relay. IIRC it's in the underhood fuse box. Swap that one with another non-essential relay. There are a few of them that are all the same. The next thing would be to check the condition of your battery cables and connections. The bolts on the side post battery may be tight, but the cable could still be loose. Also, there could be hidden corrosion underneath the insulation.

Check the starter relay. IIRC it's in the underhood fuse box. Swap that one with another non-essential relay. There are a few of them that are all the same. The next thing would be to check the condition of your battery cables and connections. The bolts on the side post battery may be tight, but the cable could still be loose. Also, there could be hidden corrosion underneath the insulation.

Thanks I'll try that in the morning.
While looking at all the fuses yesterday, we tested the large green ones and they were fine but in the diagram, none say starter relay. Only for lights, cooler, etc. Any idea about that?
Thanks again for the ideas!

I found the starter relay under the steering column and replaced it. Still nothing. I tried jumpering it from c-1 to a-2. nothing. I swear this is driving me nuts! Any other thoughts or do I just drive it off a cliff?!

Do you hear a CLICK when you turn the key from RUN to START?
YES: Starter or battery connection could be the issue
NO: Power is never getting to the starter. Aside from the above, the ignition cylinder is the other possible suspect.

It's not the cylinder either.

I'm on to the chime fuse now. Replacing it did fix the chime but didn't help start the car.

kinda hard to drive of cliff if you cant start! sorry couldnt resist. the problem you have is very traceable a starter is nothing more than a dc motor with a gear system allowing it to (once energized by the battery) turn the motor and then all the complexites of a running eng can begin.so you say the starter is good the ing switch is good the clutch or nuetral switch is good and the solioid relay is good oh and the battery and conections are good i dont know if your car is auto or stick but if automatic it may also have a switch on the brake. with that said I joined this forum because my 27 year old bought a 97 saturn and it codes crank sensor yet we replaced also changed temp sensor because coolent fans dont come on i think maybe bad ground but neither here nor there i will find the problem. I am 58 and have been fixing cars since i was 9 my trade is eletronic tech. so volt meters are my friend.I would have to say something does not make sense something you checked has to be bad. the starter is a high draw motor so a relay is needed so a low amp switch like your ing switch through all safty switches dont burn up. the relay energizes and throws on a switch internal that can handle the high draw of the starter. if everything is good from battery to starter the way to see is turn on headlights turn key to start if lights dim starter is drawing(bat or connections bad) if not you need to take step back and recheck ,starting with terms positive and negitive.

let me say one more thing that may help if you can jump starter at starter solinoid and starter works then you need to check that starter relay you found yel/blk wire should be ground if you dont have vom meter to check you can use a clip lead. strip back a little bit of that wire clip to ground and try to start. this relay is in front of safty switches like clutch and park / neutral switch so if either dont pass b plus to starter solioid starter will not engage even if starter relay is working. hope this helps

Had same issue with my 1995 sc2, click, but no turning over. Spent days going over it and nothing. Finally went under the car and there was a wire that was plugged into some thingamabob down there. I unplugged it and noticed that it was a little oily in there. I wiped both sides plugged it back up and voila! It started right up! Started up great for months. The other day back to click and no start. Got under car pushed were the wire plugged into thingamabob and again started backup. I have no clue were that wire goes to, or what it's plugged into. But I have no doubt the wire itself or whatever it plugs into is the cause of this strange won't start problem. I plan to do a more detailed investigation about this wire and it's purpose. Hopefully this will help someone.

What you referred to as the thingmabob under the car could have been the neutral safety switch. The switch can be good, and making the connection when the car is in park or neutral (for an automatic), but still have a bad connection the the wires coming to it. I dont know about Saturns, but some cars have an interlock switch under the console, near the shifter. Volvos 240's from the 80's have it there.

did you check the fusible link from the stater, bend it and pull slightly to see if the wire is broke on the inside

i figure since op has not reposted since my last post of 6-25-09 they either fixed with all info and did not tell us or pushed of the cliff they spoke of!?

I'm currently looking for the thingmabob dnunez mentioned. I am sure that is also what is prevent the car from turning on. When i turn on the ignition the car just makes a clicking sound.
On past occasions my car has done this I wiggled the battery connectors and it would get fixed. This time it has not been enough.

ehidelgo01 you should start a new post, this post is old and you will not get the response you should. That said I will say if you have been wiggling your batt terms for along time you may have a bad battery because with bad connections on you terminals your batt doesn't get a chance to charge, also you put strain on alternator. I would take terms off wire brush ,put charge on batt and pray.

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!! WHOOOO HOOOO..Thanks Dnunez69
http://enoel.posterous.com/solution-for-1995-saturn-sc2-starting-problem

Here is the picture of the thingamabob. It is in the back of the engine compartment. if you need more info you can always drop a comment.

While you are under the car check for cables that are rubbing, I found two in pretty bad conditions.

So thats the canister purge solenoid. I suppose that if it was disconnecter, or the hose has a hole in it that connects it to the throttle body, it can alter the proper air/fuel ratio. Thus not allowing your car to start

So thats the canister purge solenoid. I suppose that if it was disconnecter, or the hose has a hole in it that connects it to the throttle body, it can alter the proper air/fuel ratio. Thus not allowing your car to start
No, I believe the problem has to do with the location of the connector. Three days before my car began having problems I had to put oil and as always my hand moved and i spilled some, which i can assure fell into that plug. Since saturn are notorious for burning oil you can deduce that after so many years this little plug has been bathed several times in oil. Hence, if you remove the plug and clean it a little bit, it solves the problem. This is pure electrical problem.

No, I believe the problem has to do with the location of the connector. Three days before my car began having problems I had to put oil and as always my hand moved and i spilled some, which i can assure fell into that plug. Since saturn are notorious for burning oil you can deduce that after so many years this little plug has been bathed several times in oil. Hence, if you remove the plug and clean it a little bit, it solves the problem. This is pure electrical problem.


The starter circuit is separate from all other circuits. Actually the PCM is on a separate circuit also from it. As in, any issues with the car cranking over the PCM will not throw codes or even know there is an issue. That connector goes to the PCM.

Regardless I'm just curios to know how that connector disabled the starter from turning.

Here you go. Hope this helps a little bit better to the discussion. http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200710/ai_n21100412/
"I have emphasized in previous articles that a typical purge solenoid valve is normally off (electrically) and normally closed (mechanically). The valve should be pulsed open and closed only during an evap purge cycle. It's also pulsed during an evap monitor on systems that are tested with engine vacuum. If the purge solenoid valve leaks for any reason, the engine gets an enormous, unwanted sncxitful of fuel vapor. Although this extreme rich condition is temporary, experience shows it actually may prevent the engine from starting! For example, this has occurred on some Hyundai Sonatas equipped with leaking purge solenoid valves. Like the Audi A6 I just mentioned, these Sonatas with the leaking purge valves could also suffer from hard starting (long crank times)"

^^^ Precisely my point!

The EVAP system (regardless of part) may hinder the car starting or its actual running conditions, but it will NOT stop the car from Cranking over. Note cranking over (crankshaft turning) and starting (engine runs on its own power) are two different terms.

In the article it talks about long cranking periods, rough idle, SES codes, but NO mention of the car NOT cranking at all which was the original issue by the OP :)

So still I wonder why that connector to the solenoid stopped the starter from working.

I'm currently looking for the thingmabob dnunez mentioned. I am sure that is also what is prevent the car from turning on. When i turn on the ignition the car just makes a clicking sound.
On past occasions my car has done this I wiggled the battery connectors and it would get fixed. This time it has not been enough.

I agree with RC1448 his first post was #17. And as in red he states no turn over. Glad he has solved his problem but this solution is news to me as well. I looked at the articile and I too am confused I will have to look at electric wire diagram (if my book shows ) just to see how it could effect starter circuit. If this acually can cause no turn over it will have to be addressed. I hope my book has schematic I would like to say this is possible or not. P/S I will not loss sleep if I dont have schematic but it will stick in the back of my head though.

Just looked at haynes book and starter diagram, the purge solinoid is not in its circuit. But maybe he is mistaken about the clicking part of post. The info on purge canister flooding eng is interesting and note worthy. thanks for your input. There is another fairly new post that by symtom may have this problem.

Having the same problem with a 2002 SC2. Changed everything so far. Car powers up when it feels it wants to. Checked everything. Changed battery, alternator, Starter, cables connectors, list goes on and on. Every once and a while it'll happen but the car will work for about a month or 2. Then just like that won't start. The funny thing is my gf will be using it all day and it just will go on her. No crank over no turn over no nada. No stupid chime. No lights. Thankfully its our 3rd car but so nice on gas and a great commuter. Its 5spd. Also changed relay switch and igntion in the steering rack. Worked for 2 months then same problem. Been following this forum for a while and all inquires made have been very helpful. Make matters even funnier (and worse) i'm a manager at a high volume body shop. My techs are puzzled and dont even wanna help me work on it (not that i blame them). I've been looking for the electric relay diagrams and what not but anyone in the bizz knows that those books are like gold and no one wants to give them up for an hour. Gonna try the "thingamabob" next see if that helps...if not back to square one. or we could just burn it and get the $500 from insurance lol jk

Mechanically SC2 have not changed that much over the years so you may have the same problem. Let us now how everything goes. My car did the same thing again and needeless to say I just pulled the thingimabob a couple of times.lol

Add me to the list of intermittently not cranking or starting.

1999 SC1 automatic.
It starts up fine most of the time, but every now and then if you turn it off, come back in 5 minutes or so and try to start the car it will not crank.
Leave it for 1/2 hour or so and it will then start.

1. Battery good. All connections to battery clean. Lights ok etc.
2. Click from a relay in the box under the hood.
3. NO CLICK from starter solenoid.
4. Wiggling the shift lever may or may not make it work because I'm not sure if it's just the fact that it's been sitting a while or the wiggling that makes it start.

This just started happening and I suspect the PND switch is the culprit because when we first bought the car a few months ago it threw a "transmission out of range" code, which indicated that same switch.

I cleared it and it never did it again though so it might just be a coincidence.

I've been working on cars for 40 years and have all the tools but Saturn is a new one for me.

Can anyone confirm that the PND switch is accessed from the driver's side wheel well after removing tire and splash shield?

Thanks!

Steve:banghead:

Yes the PND switch is on the backside of the transmission, and probably reachable from the drivers side wheel well, with tire and splash guard removed. Personally I would have figured on removing the battery and battery tray, and working from above. Its not a location I would describe as easy to get to - from any angle.

Please let us know how it goes, and what you find out. I have two SL2 sedans in the family, so will likely encounter your problem someday.

Yes the PND switch is on the backside of the transmission, and probably reachable from the drivers side wheel well, with tire and splash guard removed. Personally I would have figured on removing the battery and battery tray, and working from above. Its not a location I would describe as easy to get to - from any angle.

Please let us know how it goes, and what you find out. I have two SL2 sedans in the family, so will likely encounter your problem someday.

Thanks denisond3 !!

I'll probably be working on it this week, weather permitting, and will keep the board updated.

Steve

First off thanks to everyone who has been posting, I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one with this problem... It's driving me crazy. I drive a 2001 Saturn sl1 and it randomly decides not to starts/ crank, but radio, lights, etc all work fine. I know nothing about cars but I feel as if it has to be an electrical/ connection problem with the starter. Hope someone figures this bullshit out.

Ok so I posted that last post while outside jiffy lube. I couldn't get my car to start for a good hour. The mechanic here tried something out, he tapped the starter motor while I turned the key and at first nothing but then it started right up. He told me that it is probably either the solinoid or the starter motor. Supposedly it isn't too expensive either which is good to hear. Let me know what you guys think about the starter motor or solinoid. I hope so so I can fix it and be done. Hope this helps.

Yupp bad starter.

My problem is almost identical to stang_2003, although i have a manual tranny. I have a '95 sl2 and I have the same issue with the car starting some days and not starting on others. If I let the car rest for a few hours, it will start, but if I drive somewhere and park for only 30 minutes or so, it won't start. It's like clockwork. I can jump the clutch and it starts fine. Battery is brand new, i'm wondering if the problem is the PND switch. The car does burn oil and I'm wondering if an oil leak is messing up a connection somewhere, although I don't see any evidence of a leak.

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but all this talk of PCM, canister purge solenoids and "thingamabobs" has really got me confused. Any suggestions?

That your Saturn SL series sedan burns oil means it is normal. They mostly all do it, because the oil control rings on the pistons arent the best. The only fix is to pull the motor, take out the pistons, and put new rings on. So its much easier to just keep checking the oil, even if you were to do the work yourself. They arent hard to rebuild though, if you decide to do it yourself.

My problem is almost identical to stang_2003, although i have a manual tranny. I have a '95 sl2 and I have the same issue with the car starting some days and not starting on others. If I let the car rest for a few hours, it will start, but if I drive somewhere and park for only 30 minutes or so, it won't start. It's like clockwork. I can jump the clutch and it starts fine. Battery is brand new, i'm wondering if the problem is the PND switch. The car does burn oil and I'm wondering if an oil leak is messing up a connection somewhere, although I don't see any evidence of a leak.

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but all this talk of PCM, canister purge solenoids and "thingamabobs" has really got me confused. Any suggestions?

Just saw this (we sold the Saturn) but to update, the problem turned out to be a defective starter and then another defective starter with the exact same problem.

Installed the second replacement and never had the problem again.

HTH

I have a 1999 Saturn SL1 with similar symptoms to those above. I went thru all the standard tests and trouble shooting. All these are good places to start, and are the source of many problems. But not mine.

I searched the internet and actually found the problem. It was very unusual and unconventional. But I'll bet it's the problem for some of you.

Remove the front driver's trim panel next to the gas pedal. (It's opposite the fuse panel on the passenger side, and opens the exact same way). Next, wiggle the wires coming out the back of the fuse panel that you just provided access to at the SAME TIME as you try to start the car. In my case, it was the front bundle of wires (There are two main bundles of wires). My car started. I was amazed.

There appears to be a problem with burning a terminal on this fuse box. Hope this works for you. It was the end of a long journey for me.

I haven't actually fixed it yet, but at least I know WHAT to fix. I've driven my car since then, and it has failed, and I've gotten it to start at least a dozen times without fail. I know I'm pushing my luck, and better permanently fix it soon.

Larry s60home...THANK YOU! Yes, like you I have been searching for this for many hours. Thanks again for sharing you find.

Chuck

i usually can not be bothered with a blog but i think my car's story might help. 97 auto sc2. Sat for a year before I bought it replaced battery 3 months later kept having to jump start. I did a simple alternator test disconnected battery while running to see if it would die nope stayed stayed running. Did a "real" alternator test it was bad. replaced it 3 weeks later i discovered my new alternator was badly rebuilt and replaced it again. Next day car won't start kept charging would disconnect battery ground and test voltage it tried to come up from the 6 volts it stayed at connected so battery was good. So that tells me wire behind alternator is bad or my car has a polterguiest. Or I have a parasitic drain (like when your battery dies cause you leave your lights on) somethings pulling power all the time when turned off. How you test for this is Take keys out of ignition. disconnect ground from battery clip a test light to the post and stick light end into the battery cable where it connects to the battery if the light comes on you have a drain somewhere. Next (LEAVE KEYS OUT OF IGNITION) and pull fuses and relays one at a time one box is under the hood and another in my car is on passenger side where left leg would be when the light turns off that's the circuit your drain is coming from sometimes it flickers use your own judgement on this on my car the sensor in the trunk that says it's open was broken light in trunk that's burnt out never turned off...lol disabled the sensor because that fuse is attached to the "body" and is also related to my electric windows and locks "wonderful" huh...so i couldn't just pull it. and then next my cars alarm that never sounds and I thought was broken decided I was trying to steal it and disabled my starter . That was fun to figure out battery volt tests at 13 all lights come on and no crank. So test alarm and reset before you buy a new starter after wiggling wires .... in my car how you reset the alarm is open your door with key turn car to on /or accessorie (just enough to turn the radio on) turn car off pull key out close door leave it UNlocked and wait 30 minutes .... Should be in your manual.... This is just a little of the problems I've had with this little black beast... Oh and now it starts right up but the radio has disabled itself because it thought I was trying to steal it too.. I'm not getting paid to fix this it's mine so i'll read how to reset that bugger later.. hoped I helped or gave you an option you have not thought of for investigation.

I have the same problems as other users have described. My 1999 Saturn SL1 will not start or even attempt to turn over. Lights, Ignition sounds (When key is inserted) all seems to be normal. I have a new battery and alternator installed. I checked cables for corrosion but have not located any corroded wiring. Any ideas?

My daughter's 1998 wouldnt start one day. The starter was silent. It was sudden. The starter had given no trouble at all - then wouldnt make any noise at all. I replaced the starter, which didnt seem to be dead when I tested it outside the car. To help my daughter (with her newborn son), I added a wire from the small terminal on the starter, long enough to reach up to the positive terminal on the battery. If the car would refuse to start again, she could leave the ignition on, open the hood, and touch that wire to the battery "+" terminal - and the car would be cranked over, even if the complex electronics of the PCM and neutral safety switch, etc. were not co-operating.

To everybody well if it won't start and not the starter here's 2 new options. First if it drains the battery slowly after you've disconnected the battery changed an alternator ect.... or is just acting like the starters not grounded. Their is an alarm box under your rear passenger backseat above the fender well. It's a base to an alarm and has 3 relays in there and one grounds your starter I recommend finding someone to test it and wire around it cause it's a pain and I can't explain how to do it with out getting into your car. I had this problem with sc2's. and I also located 2 parasitic drains. to find the circuit that's the problem disconnect neg battery cable clip a test light to post of battery light end into cable if it lights up somethings pulling make sure doors are closed lights off ect. Start pulling fuses one by one when light shuts off that's your circuit that drains your battery. Pull fuses from box under hood and one by your legs in front of car. Have fun :banghead:

Becky96: Thanks for the info. I will be looking for the alarm box with relays in it. We would like to bypass the car's security features permanently, since I dont worry about a Saturn S series car being stolen anymore. Since the last time I posted in this thread, I have heard several folks having the intermittent no-start problem, and not having success fixing it with a new starter. So I kind of think its in the car's -other- electronics somewhere.

I would be glad to get the Saturn manuals, but the few times they show up on ebay, they carry high prices, or are not a complete set having the wiring in them.

ledautolamp: Do they have Saturn S series cars in Guangzhou?

I just want to add a little help for someone with the same issue. I have a 99 SL2 with the same type of problem. After changing the ignition then starter to no avail and right before giving up, I traced the problem to the security module behind the rear passenger seat. I unplugged the security module and connected the two toned yellow/black wire to the black wire right across from it on the plug. Both wires were the 5th ones down and right across from each other. This fixed the problem and the car now starts right up.

After you connected the Yellow/Black wire and the solid Black across from it, did you leave the plug out?

I plugged it back in.

Hello all,
Was reading everything because my 2001 SL2 started having the same issue on Wednesday. Stopped for a few minutes to pick up my students and bam! My students father gave me a jump and off I went. Thought it was just the battery but for the next few days I had no problem until yesterday, Sunday, called AAA go a jump and we were good to go until right now!!! Dead. Lights are dim and there is very little juice but still have some. Please help!!! We are starving students who teach kids gymnastics and martial arts for a living. So money is all but limited. Thank you.

That sounds more like a battery connection or a bad alternator. More like the alternator.

Alright, I hope this helps out. My neighbor's 97 SL2 had the same problem. I checked for power to the starter relay under the dash when the key was turned to start. Nothing. The ignition switch is fed power from the IGN 3 fuse in the under hood fuse box. When I was taking the cover off the headlights flickered on and off. I found one of the two bolts holding the fuse box together was very loose. Tightened it up and the problem was fixed.

Im having a similar problem.I just replaced an aftermarket headunit in my neighbors 97 LS with another aftermarket headunit.Then the car wouldn't start no click or anything.The previous person who installed the radio chopped off the factory harness and hardwired the radio so i just cut the 12v constant,trigger,ground and speaker leads and wired in the new radio's harness to those.
So after getting no starter response or headunit power I tested the 12v constant it had no power but good fuse,then tested 12v trigger w/key on it has power so I joined them together(12v constant and trigger).Now the headunit works and the starter is turning over once but not cranking long enough to start the car.Any suggestions?

Well we had the same problem with the car got parked and when we came out to start it, nothing read the post on the one who wiggled the wiring harness on the driver side just in front of the shifter down by the gas pedal . That was it!!! Turn your ignition to on position and with the door open you should hear the warning bell, if not removed the plastic panel that covers the wire harness and move wires around till the warning for door open bell comes on. Start car and thats it. I used a sealer and electrical tape to secure it.

Got a 97 saturn sc2, went to start nothing, no sound when key was turned. Had no interior lights, no power windows, no power door locks, and no door chimes. Had lights on dash and radio, still nothing. Went to passenger side fuse panel, popped it off and looked on back of panel, took out the one that is a 10 amp fuse marked body and replaced the new fuse and lord and behold it cranked! Hope this will work for some of yall that are having the same problem. .89 cent 10 amp fuse, and my car started! Was so glad I hadn't replaced everything under the hood before we found this one small thing.

Here's my adventure so far:

This is a '98 SC2 with a 5 speed and a quarter million on it. Last year, the car began to leave me sit. A code reader kept giving me 340s and 341s - camshaft position sensor. Long story short: if you've dealt with this, you know you'll probably wind up replacing the crankshaft position sensor.

So it's been replaced ....twice, most recently two weeks ago. Since then, the light's been intermittently on and off with the same code every time. Today, when I turned it off, it would not restart. No power loss anywhere - I can hear the pump pressurizing, I can hear the clutch switch click when I press it in ...just no noise when I try to start it.

Finally, five hours later, we get it running by pushing it and popping the clutch in second gear. I drive it home, park it, and walk away. An hour later, it starts right up with the key.

Color me baffled. :eek7::runaround::angryfire

just thought i would chime in bout 2 months ago i had this same problem it was my starter relay switch under dash this was a 1999 sl2 with almost 100,000 then last week starter went out replaced it evrey thing is good now yall have been a big help tanks:rofl:

I just picked up a 1997 Saturn SC2 with 143k miles on it. The car is an automatic. The only way the starter will crank is if you hold the LOCK button while you have the key turned to start position. I was told this was a kill switch wired up by someone but don't really believe that. It has an aftermarket radio installed in it that will not power up unless the same LOCK button is pushed. As soon as you let off the lock button the radio shuts off. I had to jump this car at the auction to get it home. I put it on the charger for an hour and the car started everytime by hitting the LOCK button. A customer drove it today and it ran out of gas. I put gas in it and it started but he stalled it because it has a hesitation problem. Would not restart even with jumping it. Came back 20 mins later and the car started. Got it home and would not restart. Put it on the charger and still would not crank, just a clicking under the hood. The alternator is charging, the battery is less than a year old. Not thinking the starter is the issue and don't want to replace it for nothing. I try wiggling the shifter but nothing happens. I can't open up the link for the "thingamabob" so I don't know where to mess with that at. I am going to start checking things in the post but would like to get some input also since the LOCK button has added a new aspect to this problem.

Is the LOCK button you mention the one on the driver's door that locks the doors, or is it the lock button on the 'dongle fob' for locking/unlocking the car?

My daughter's 98 SL2 would refuse to start and a new starter didnt fix it. I wired up a push-button on the dash (down low by driver's left knee) that connected 12 volts directly to the solenoid on the top of the starter. For about a year she used that; turning the ignition switch to "on" then pushing the button. The car always started & ran. Many months later I happened to see that the dome light wasnt working, and I found a blown fuse in the panel on the right side of the console. With a new fuse in there, the starter would now work from the ignition key again.
So my advice is to check every fuse inside the car.

It is either of the lock or unlock buttons on either door. I ordered a new starter from DB electric so I hope it will fix it. I believe the starter is getting actuated but I think its probably getting bad. If I have to I will wire up a button like you did. How di you do it exactly?

Starter Override Switch....
I got a momentary pushbutton type switch, a fairly large one, since the solenoid on the starter actually takes several amps. I might have gotten the switch at a good hardware store, or some electronics store or from ebay; I cant recall. The switch has to be the kind that is "normally open", that is its only closed when you are holding the button depressed. The switch has two wires coming to it. I ran a wire (about a 14 or 12 awg stranded wire) from the small terminal on the solenoid that sits atop the starter, across behind the engine and in through the grommet that is close to the brake vacuum booster - about at the 2:p.m. position. I actually ran a few wires at the same time, but I only needed one for my starter 'over-ride'. I got the 12 volt supply I wanted by splicing into the wire to the cigarette lighters - which is easiest to do working from the driver's side of the console. Since the lighter is only powered when the ignition/accessories are on, the switch wont do anything if you push on it when the ignition is shut off. There is a small nut on that small terminal on the starter, and unscrewing it, putting my extra wire on it, and getting the nut snugged back down again took a few minutes. The small nut might be an 8mm, (or 5/16th inch), or it might be a 10mm I cant recall. The switch was a lifesaver for us, but there is a danger to it. It bypasses the "wont start unless transmission is in park or neutral" function of the range-sensor. So if you have the shift lever in Drive, the ignition on but the engine not running....then pushing that switch will launch the car. Very bad when you want to carefully back-out of a parking space at Walmart.'

Now I need to add a different switch to my 95 SL2, for the same reason I had to add one to my daughter's 98SL2. The wipers would start to work when the ignition was switched on, even though they were in the off position; and sometimes they would not stop when they wanted to shut the wipers down after a rain. My switch just cut off the power to the wiper motor. It also stopped them wherever they were - so you had to twitch the switch to get the wipers to the 'parked' position.

Something you might try with the door lock and unlock switches:
There are two relays in the upper-rear corner of the fuse box on the passenger side of the console. These have to do with the door locking/unlocking. With my 96SL1 I had one of them that would periodically go nuts ---- and either make the locks chatter, or drain the battery overnight. A couple of times the car locked me out when I just shut the door normally! I yanked out the two relays, and the misbehavior stopped. I had individually to lock/unlock the doors, but since I seldom had passengers when I used that car, it wasnt much of a sacrifice.

The only thing an SL2 has that I want on my SL1 is the cruise control.

I just had the same problem with my 2000 Saturn sl2 all I had to do was push this rectangular black button in a black box with wires coming out up under the clutch pedal and it started right up

Can anyone tell me why not to cut the purple wire and the white wire to the clutch interlock switch and splice them together. I have never known of nor heard of anyone being injured because they accidently tried to start a car in gear. This would remove that switch from the "won't start" troubleshooting. Plus in an emergency the car can be kick started in gear.