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Don't know how to post on this forum. Just changed intake gaskets on 99 Venture. Couldn't find vac line for right rear uppper manifold (by alt). Anyone know where the ine comes from.


Thanks
Barry

Forgot following. Blocked vac fitting. (Big leak) and it runs ok but service engine lite is on. Looks like a 1/4 inch line or so. You would think I would see such a large line.

Barry

Don't know how to post on this forum. Just changed intake gaskets on 99 Venture. Couldn't find vac line for right rear uppper manifold (by alt). Anyone know where the ine comes from.Right rear? Isn't your alternator on the left? If memory serves me, there are two vacuum lines on the rear valve cover. One goes to the MAP sensor or whatever the little thing is in front of the ignition coils. The other goes to the break booster...I think. I can check later tonight if you haven't figured it out.

Sitting in the Car the line would be on the right. It exits the upper manifold pointing at the alt. Looking at the front of the car it would be on the left. It's not on the valve cover its on the upper manifold.

I have a 2002 Chevy Venture, 3.4L with 66k miles. I recently noticed a leak orginating from the lower intake manifold bolts. Considering the number 4 bolt, adjacent to the temperature sender, was so loose I could turn it with my fingers, I removed the upper intake plenum and tightened all the lower intake manifold bolts. This appears to have resolved the issue in the short term. Skeptical, I found this forum.

Since reading I have downladed the March 2003 service bulletin and contacted GM Customer Assistance Center. The rep has requested the vehicle be inspected by my local Chevy service center and with the diagnosis and estimate for repair of a leaking IMG, the rep will let me know what Chevy will be able to offer me towards the repair if anything. But first I have to foot the bill for a diagnosis $90.

Reading the previous threads I am not too optomistic, but I will try and let you all know how Chevy reponds.

I am attempting to relieve the fuel pressure for my 2000 Malibu, but can't screw into the test port on the fuel rail. I have a fuel pressure tester with a bleed-out hose, but there is a metal tube connecting to base of power steering well in the way. I am fearful if I try to move the tube out of the way too much it will snap. Any ideas on how to connect or alternative ways to relieve the pressure?

I've got the same problem with the intake manifolds.
But I don't get the instructions right. Does the engine need to be out of the vehicle. Because the manual says rotate the engine.

I am attempting to relieve the fuel pressure for my 2000 Malibu, but can't screw into the test port on the fuel rail. I have a fuel pressure tester with a bleed-out hose, but there is a metal tube connecting to base of power steering well in the way. I am fearful if I try to move the tube out of the way too much it will snap. Any ideas on how to connect or alternative ways to relieve the pressure?

I have a 2000 Montana, and whenever I have to do any kind of work on the fuel system, such as fuel filters, etc. I just unplug the fuel pump harness by the fuel tank and then start the engine and let it "peter" out. This has always worked for me. Theoretically this should relieve the pressure in the fuel rail, and seemed to work for me when I did the intake gaskets this past summer.

I've got the same problem with the intake manifolds.
But I don't get the instructions right. Does the engine need to be out of the vehicle. Because the manual says rotate the engine.

When the manual says to rotate the engine, they are referring to the act of
taking the dogbones loose, these are the brackets that hold the engine in place on top and keep it from twisting during accleration and reverse operation. When these are loose, you can rotatate the engine forward or backwards to get at stuff easier. I did NOT, however, find this was needed when I did the intake gaskets on a 2000 Montana. I can see it might make things easier, but I did not have to do it. Although you have to do the spark plugs pretty much by feel alone.:p

When the manual says to rotate the engine, they are referring to the act of
taking the dogbones loose, these are the brackets that hold the engine in place on top and keep it from twisting during accleration and reverse operation. When these are loose, you can rotatate the engine forward or backwards to get at stuff easier. I did NOT, however, find this was needed when I did the intake gaskets on a 2000 Montana. I can see it might make things easier, but I did not have to do it. Although you have to do the spark plugs pretty much by feel alone.:p

Thanks
Do I need to take something of, like the exhaust. I can't find anything about it in the haynes manual. I will first try to get the gasket here in the netherlands. What spark plug do you use. Original Delco.

Thanks
Do I need to take something of, like the exhaust. I can't find anything about it in the haynes manual. I will first try to get the gasket here in the netherlands. What spark plug do you use. Original Delco.

You can leave the exhaust alone, unless you have a head that needs to come off. I would use the AC Delco OE style plugs, they are as good as anything else for the money. Might not hurt to check and or replace the plug wires while your at it, as well as the oil pump drive o-ring.

Thanks to all who contributed here regarding IMG replacement. I am now 5 hrs. into job and am really glad I kept my two 70's vintage MOPARS, where you can literally sit inside the engine compartment while working under the hood!!! Did anyone else who did this job themselves have a thought that these vehicles (newer GM ones) are meant to be "disposable" rather than serviceable? I remember tight fits when working on 60's big block muscle machines, but come on - alternator bolts that butt up to the firewall when you remove them??? Having to take so many fittings, connectors, etc. apart just to pull an intake? And what's up with the power steering pump - if I had to replace it only would I have to remove the fuel injector rail first?? (I still can't get it to come out after trying for an hour...) Last affair I had with a GM was pulling / rebuilding 2.5L 4 cyl. in a Calais (had one of the notorious cracked cyl. heads) - in retrospect, that job was much easier!!

Well, I will continue this adventure on my '99 Montana but without the input from you all I probably today would have called the local garage to have them tow it there to finish the job, as before I read this it looked like I got in way over my head. So let's continue to educate each other and who knows, maybe the local dealer will eventually have to "lower" the labor rate for lack of business (well I can dream, can't I?)... Now, do you prefer liquid bandage or good old Curads?!!!

Could someone please tell me where I can buy the mentioned parts. Here in the Netherlands, no GM dealer has the modified gaskets. So I'd like to order it online in the US. They need to ship international.

I just did the intake on my 97 venture. It now runs "loud"

Its not knocking (i dont think) but it has more of a growl noise... any ideas?


Thanks

Has anyone filled out the class action law suit on page 8 post #116? I would like to be a part of helping resolve these problems we are having with these engines. I just want to be sure i am not going to be bombarded be emails and/or phone calls, and that it is legit. (older post, i know)

Anyway I have a 1999 Venture and having coolant fizzing bobbling out of the lower IMG on the drivers side causing a puddle then overflowing down the engine/transmission to the ground. It just got worse last week, still have about 8 months of payments left on it :banghead:.

Crazy thing is when i bought it from a dealer with 41K miles i noticed the same problem and they fixed it. that was in 02 so i think it must have been just before the gaskets were changed to the improved ones. 111k miles on it now so i guess it did pretty good.

Thanks for all the great info ill be diving into this project next week or so.

Are there anymore TSB's newer then the 03 TSB on this problem?

Tim

Get that intake gasket fixed immediately and maybe that dealer that did it the first time will cover it. If you wait like I did for many months, it will get worse at the worst possible time (small town, hundreds of miles from home, repair quote more than vehicle value.....you get the picture) and then I blew the head gasket as well.

BTW - I checked into the class-action thing as well, sent them my info twice 6 months ago and have not heard from them, and no other junk emails from them either. Good luck.

Thanks , spoke to dealer today and they said that chevy wasnt doing anything to help with the cost and that it had too many mile to do anything warrantee related. But they did print out the latest TSB and the service procedures for me. They knew it was a problem so i guess they helped as much as they could. Ill be doing it as soon as i get paid.

Personally, I would have the heads done (machined, new gaskets) as well as the rear 3 plugs/wires and the water pump if not done at 60-70,000 miles. When my intake had the same leak as yours, the system can put undo pressure on the remaining gaskets/coolant related devices (e.g. water pump), and mine leaked shortly after I had my head and intake gaskets done. The rear plugs are such a pain to get to and it makes the most sense to do them and the plug wires at the same time as the intakes. Also, switch to the green coolant if you haven't gotten the word yet.

I just did the water pump this week, have plugs and wires ready to go. Cant afford to do the head gaskets/ machining right now ill have to take a chance on that. $40 in new gm bolts is a bit steep. Did you use new bolts, or old ones cleaned and white pipe seal like one of the GM Mechanics and the haynes manuel says? If i can do this i might be able to do the head gaskets as well. I have read about the red collant but havent had a problem with it untill now i guess and not sure this is the reason for the intake problem because it seems some people have switched and still had to do the IMG again.

I don't think the shop I used replaced the bolts or any of the white coating you state. Here in San Diego I had the intake and head gaskets replaced, heads machined, oil changed, t-stat and radiator replaced, orange coolant flushed and refilled with green all for $1300. The general opinion I pick up from the orange coolant is that if it is not religiously changed every 15k it can gel or change chemical makeup that seems to prematurely wear gaskets and cause other system issues (radiator, etc). May want to at least have the radiator flushed separately and pressure tested before putting all this work in. Flushing my was going to be around $90 with the new one only $130. My only comment is that you do not want to in the near future go back and do the intake gaskets, etc again since the head gaskets may have been compromised to date and may go soon.

Hi you all I have just done Aengine swap on my 97 venture.I got the replacement engine from A 2002 chevy impala.I have driven it a few days now and it runs good.I was sitting at a gas station waiting to get gas and the temp gage started rising to a little past middle ways between c and h.Though when drving it stays just above the c mark.When they changed the engine i belive they changed the intake.From my old engine to the new engine.I was wondering if all the typical trouble is starting all over.Only got 30 days waranty so got to decide to take the venture back to the shop or what.thanks for youre time

Hi you all I have just done Aengine swap on my 97 venture.I got the replacement engine from A 2002 chevy impala.I have driven it a few days now and it runs good.I was sitting at a gas station waiting to get gas and the temp gage started rising to a little past middle ways between c and h.Though when drving it stays just above the c mark.When they changed the engine i belive they changed the intake.From my old engine to the new engine.I was wondering if all the typical trouble is starting all over.Only got 30 days waranty so got to decide to take the venture back to the shop or what.thanks for youre time
That seems to be a somewhat "normal" occurance with these vans. Both of my Ventures did that and here is a link to a thread from awhile back that may shed a little more info on the situation:http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=650142 .

Does anybody know how to install the O-ring into the fuel feed line that goes to the fuel rack? I lost 2 already and I need to reinstall it again, I'm wondering if you need to put the O-ring into the end and then install the connectors. Please let me know.
Thank you all !!!!:screwy:

I already got my o-ring and working fine. My problem now is that after replacing the intake everything seems to be normal except the temp gauge is all the way down to hot (seems to be broken), don't know why, it does not move from there at all. Any ideas ????

Check that you got the air out of your system. Look for a ground in the wire from the temp. sensor. You could have a bad sender. If you have an electric fan make sure it is coming on.

Weel i did the IMG on Fri seems to be fine. I read all about this sludge that the DEX-Cool makes and OMG!! It was just like everyone said MUD. i had to scrap it out of the left coolant ports that dont travel through the manifold, and out of the radiator cap. Who knows where else it has built up. I want to flush the engine and use the green antifreeze (i have it in my 196K Chevy truck and its still clean) Can anyone recomend a good flush that will eat this stuff up and get it out??

:banghead: Thank you very much RHANDWOR for your prompt and excellent advice. The gauge is still all the way down to hot, but is not broken, it seems to be moving just a little bit. After finishing my intake and putting everthing back I thought the O-ring for the fuel feed line was for the coolant pipe (black metal pipe) that goes to the thermostat housing (big mistake!) and left it there, I couldn't get it back. I'm wondering if that o-ring is causing some kind of problem. Don't know.... The car seems to be running great and no leaks at all. Please give me an advice about the o-ring left inside the coolant pipe!

The o-ring could have been pumped to the thermostat or could be plugging a small opening. I would check the thermostat first. With the thermostat out pull the bottom radiator hose. Put a water hose into the thermostat opening and try to flush the o-ring. Also pull a radiator hose and flush with a water hose. You should be able to flush it out. If needed pull both hoses and flush both ways. Save your new green antifreeze or if you didn't change use new green antifreeze.
This should work with the other problem with sludge. Some old parts stores might still have some flush in a large two part container. One is a neutralizer for the flush. The EPA stopped new sales of the good working product.

The o-ring could have been pumped to the thermostat or could be plugging a small opening. I would check the thermostat first. With the thermostat out pull the bottom radiator hose. Put a water hose into the thermostat opening and try to flush the o-ring. Also pull a radiator hose and flush with a water hose. You should be able to flush it out. If needed pull both hoses and flush both ways. Save your new green antifreeze or if you didn't change use new green antifreeze.
This should work with the other problem with sludge. Some old parts stores might still have some flush in a large two part container. One is a neutralizer for the flush. The EPA stopped new sales of the good working product.

Thanks once again. I'll work on it for today and see how it goes.

Thanks once again. I'll work on it for today and see how it goes.

I did the work yesterday and the problem remains the same. Where is is the temperature sender located? I read that should be one cable coming from there and I'm wondering if I messed it up when I replace the lower intake.

I did the work yesterday and the problem remains the same. Where is is the temperature sender located? I read that should be one cable coming from there and I'm wondering if I messed it up when I replace the lower intake.

I'm wondering if I have a bad temperature sensor. When I disconnect the connector to the sensor, the temperature gauge goes back to cold (as it should be). When I plug back the connector to the sensor, the temperature gauge goes all the way down to the right side. I guess I need to replace my sensor... any other ideas????

Depending on the motor it should be close to the upper radiator hose on the intake manifold.

Depending on the motor it should be close to the upper radiator hose on the intake manifold.

I replaced the ECT sensor (12 bucks advanced auto parts) and temperature gauge works fine now.
Thanks for all your help.:)

I replaced the intake but I have a leak at the bypass pipe that goes to the water pump, the threads for the nuts are not working anymore so I have to do new ones, I bouth J-B weld and see if I can do new ones. Is there any seal that goes there (at the end of the pipe) that I need to replace? I noticed a big leak there today and my car was overheating.

Normally you need a new hose and a rebuilt or new water pump. Spray all the nuts and bolts with P-B Blaster the night before you start. Any broken bolts I usually use a full size drill and a tap. Center punch the bolt drill through the center retap and use a new bolt. On cast iron I use the same size bolt and a good thread sealer. I've not had problems. I also use a hammer and tap the bolts before trying to loosen them. If heavily rusted I some times use a metric wrench or U.S. size to get a tighter fit on the head.
I think your big water leak is the pump seal.

Normally you need a new hose and a rebuilt or new water pump. Spray all the nuts and bolts with P-B Blaster the night before you start. Any broken bolts I usually use a full size drill and a tap. Center punch the bolt drill through the center retap and use a new bolt. On cast iron I use the same size bolt and a good thread sealer. I've not had problems. I also use a hammer and tap the bolts before trying to loosen them. If heavily rusted I some times use a metric wrench or U.S. size to get a tighter fit on the head.
I think your big water leak is the pump seal.

Maybe I didn't express myself propely, but the leak is at the end of the bypass pipe on the driver's side, just one bolt holds it down. That pipe goes down and has a rubber seal, the leak is right there, because I broke the thread for that bolt and does not hold it when there is pressure. Maybe just fixing the threds might take care of the problem. Please let me known if you need further clarification.

From your description I would remove it. If you have enough bolt try a stud extractor or vise grips to remove it. Otherwise if a cast iron part center punch and drill out. Retap and use a new bolt and probably a new rubber o-ring.
If aluminum if you can remove it remove the bolt and get it welded. If you have the skills you can drill oversize and use an insert. Or use a larger drill tap insert a brass pipe plug drill and tap it to orginal size. You have to grind flush before drilling.

The thread is fixed now, but I still have a leak there, I'm going to stop by the dealer on Monday to see if there is a O-ring or seal for the bypass pipe that goes to the water pump. Thanks for your help.

The thread is fixed now, but I still have a leak there, I'm going to stop by the dealer on Monday to see if there is a O-ring or seal for the bypass pipe that goes to the water pump. Thanks for your help.

I got the part from the dealer, is part 10189205 sealer-th. It's an o-ring that goes to the bypass pipe. Does anybody know how to install it? My old o-ring looks totally different than this one.

Their should be a section of tubing which goes into the hole. Gently place the o-ring around it and push it up to the flange. A place for the o-ring to sit against the block should where the flange is bolted down to clamp against the o-ring. Make sure all of the old o-ring is removed and the surfaces are clean.

:) Their should be a section of tubing which goes into the hole. Gently place the o-ring around it and push it up to the flange. A place for the o-ring to sit against the block should where the flange is bolted down to clamp against the o-ring. Make sure all of the old o-ring is removed and the surfaces are clean.

Thank you very much rhandwor. I followed your instruction and is fixed now. It took me 15 minutes to fix it. I didn't even need to drain the coolant from the radiator.

Tremendous sludge/yellowish gel throughout intake areas, radiator drained clean green coolant; upper intake bolts were finger loose; mechanic is convinced it's the head gaskets. I have both upper and lower intakes completely off, all eight bolts removed from forward head, but I stripped one of the two bolts on the exhaust flange connected to exhaust pipe. Need to get ignition coil off and I think I'm home free with the heads removal.

Need to get ignition coil off and I think I'm home free with the heads removal.How did you remove the lower manifold with the ingnition coil still on the vehicle?

How did you remove the lower manifold with the ingnition coil still on the vehicle?


We used a small, flat, boxed-end ratchet-type wrench to loosen the front bolts on the rear valve cover, it slipped in between the coil assembly plate and valve cover. The Intake manifold removals went fairly quickly, it took me a few more hours to get the heads off, basically because I was clueless. I removed each of the three coil packs individually, rotated the engine forward using a rope and was able to reach the two studs holding on the coil assembly plate. I'm not sure now of the order those three packs should go back in?

We used a small, flat, boxed-end ratchet-type wrench to loosen the front bolts on the rear valve cover, it slipped in between the coil assembly plate and valve cover. The Intake manifold removals went fairly quickly, it took me a few more hours to get the heads off, basically because I was clueless. I removed each of the three coil packs individually, rotated the engine forward using a rope and was able to reach the two studs holding on the coil assembly plate. I'm not sure now of the order those three packs should go back in?Wow. You really took the hard way to get that off of there. It was designed not to have to remove the packs individually but rather 2 bolts and 2 nuts and lift it off. Here's a hit for future repairs. Don't put the two rear nuts on. Just slip the module onto the bolts. Just tighten down the front bolts. The front bolts are enough to hold it firmly in place and then you don't have to hassle with removing the rear nuts next time you need it off.

The order is 5-2-3-6-4-1. On my modules the number is printed on the top of the module.

Wow. You really took the hard way to get that off of there............

The order is 5-2-3-6-4-1. On my modules the number is printed on the top of the module.


I thought that was the case, thank you, I'll remember tomorrow when I start putting everything back together. Received serious rope burns pulling the engine forward, BTW, do you know the GM part Number for the original spark plugs? The ones in there now are 41-940, they look a little warn, but not bad, I can't tell if they're original, the van has 130k miles. Also, #1 cylinder was full of green antifreeze, the other cylinders weren't. I'm anxious to get this back together, your recommendation about removal of the rear head with the exhaust manifold still attached was a life saver. I keep reading about replacing the oil something o-ring? And, Bob said there pictures of the complete breakdown somewhere on line?

thanks,

Mark

BTW, do you know the GM part Number for the original spark plugs? The ones in there now are 41-940, they look a little warn, but not bad, I can't tell if they're original, the van has 130k miles.
Mark
What year is the Venture? I did a quick look and the '99 model uses the 41-940 (GM#25163148) and the '03 model uses 41-101, and the '01 model shows a part # of 41-979 (GM #25333938 ). They probably are original equipment in there now as many people I have spoken to over the years have mentioned they thought that the 100,000 mile plugs are just that, you keep them in for 100,000 miles. I usually tell them that it is a good idea to check them anywheres from 60,000 to 75,000 miles because they can wear out before 100,000 miles. At least with the GM minivans owners have this opportunity to do just that (check them before 100,000 miles) as the intakes usually fail before then, and when the engine is torn down to replace the gaskets, it's an excellent time to replace the plugs.

Received serious rope burns pulling the engine forwardAgain you are making things harder then they need to be. The method I always use to rock the engine forward is to run a ratchet tie down strap through the loop on the engine mount on the right of the engine and loop it around the hood latch bracket. It will ratchet down fairly easily enough to get to the back. Most of the pressure you will feel actually will be the exhaust pipe flex section.

BTW, do you know the GM part Number for the original spark plugs? The ones in there now are 41-940, they look a little warn, but not bad, I can't tell if they're original, the van has 130k miles.I don't know what the originals are, but just pick up 6 new ones. You will NEVER have a time where access is easier. It may cost $25 now when it may not be NEEDED, but do you want to spend an afternoon down the road doing having to replace them?

Also, #1 cylinder was full of green antifreeze, the other cylinders weren't.I presume this is after you have removed the head. If that is the case, you can't go by the presence of antifreeze after the head has been removed. There will still be some antifreeze stuck in the places and removing the heads will cause some to leak into the cylinder. Just clean it up as soon as possible to prevent it from further leaking down into the oil pan as much as possible.

I keep reading about replacing the oil something o-ring? And, Bob said there pictures of the complete breakdown somewhere on line?I don't know about a complete break down, but this post (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=2979972&postcount=24) I made a few years ago has some pictures when my engine was torn down. This picture (http://img169.imageshack.us/my.php?image=40jt.jpg) shows the engine without the heads. If you look on the right just above the middle, there is a silver "cap" that sticks out about 1/2 inch. This is the oil pump drive shaft (under the cap). Back when the vehicles had a distributor still, this shaft would have continued up to the distributer rotor.

Anyways, you'll need to remove the bolt that is holding the bracket down and lift the shaft straight up. A pair of vice grips or channel lock pliers make the job easier. You can ding up the top of the cap without problems, but don't put anything between the block and the bottom of the cap. You want these surfaces to be smooth. Once you get it out, there will be an o-ring a little ways down on the shaft. Mine basically fell apart when poked at with a screwdriver.

Reinstallation is reverse of the process. The drive shaft sometimes will want to slip out of the cap. A little bit of axle grease in the top of the cap provides enough stickyness to keep the shaft in place for reinsertion.

If you think you had a leaking head gasket have the heads pressure tested at a machine shop while they are off. This will save you a lot of work if one is cracked.

If you think you had a leaking head gasket have the heads pressure tested at a machine shop while they are off. This will save you a lot of work if one is cracked.

Already did that, they pressure checked and planed the bottoms, was a little disappointed with the cost, $185 total, but they did not recommend new valves. I have reinstalled the rear head and will try to finish this project tomorrow at the garage.

Just finished, got everything back together, started right up, these forums are fantastic! Did not replace push rods exactly, but had the right lengths in the right order, do not notice any rattling. Electrical plugs will only go in one way, however, vacuum tubes, that's another story. Recommend bagging and tagging all bolts, and labeling all vacuum and electrical connections. Pre-mark both ends of new spark plug wires, the ones I bought did not have numbers on them. Install EGR to upper intake, loosely, before installing upper intake. Take lots of high quality phots, could not find a single photo of my actual engine anywhere except EBAY and autozone.com, had to improvise with other year models. Where the heater pipe, EGR, fuel lines, Tansmission dip stick meet can be a bear, make sure you have a good photo, if you can disconnect both the fuel lines and by-pass pipe, I highly recommend doing so, or at least one of them. Lastly, I want to echo the previous poster's comment about how gratifying it was when the van started up.

Hi,
I too have gasket troubles and am attempting to fix it myself. I was trying to rotate the engine, but it didn't leave me much room to remove the ignition coil. As a novice wannabe mechanic who is using the haynes manual as a guide, I wanted to know how far is the engine supposed to rotate? Enough to easily remove the coil??

Hi,
I too have gasket troubles and am attempting to fix it myself. I was trying to rotate the engine, but it didn't leave me much room to remove the ignition coil. As a novice wannabe mechanic who is using the haynes manual as a guide, I wanted to know how far is the engine supposed to rotate? Enough to easily remove the coil??

'Easily' being the operative word, nothing is easy on this vehicle, you should be able to rotate engine forward just enough to reach the two back nuts holding the coil plate to the studs, mine are 13 mm, remove the two front bolts (10mm) that are connected to the upper intake manifold and the coil plate should lift up and out. Check your plug wires at this time and replace if there's any chance they're not perfect, also I replaced the plugs, I used OEM AC Delco Platinum, believe this is necessary because there are other posts with problems from off-brand plugs.

Hi,
I too have gasket troubles and am attempting to fix it myself. I was trying to rotate the engine, but it didn't leave me much room to remove the ignition coil. As a novice wannabe mechanic who is using the haynes manual as a guide, I wanted to know how far is the engine supposed to rotate? Enough to easily remove the coil??

It will rotate enough forward to reach the rear nuts to the alternator, not see them. I laid down underneith the van and remowed them from there. It was easier for me because i had the van on stands.

Good luck, just take your time and dont take short cuts and youll do fine.

BTW im a motorcycle mechanic and an auto body man and it took me all day, so guage your time on that.

'Easily' being the operative word, nothing is easy on this vehicle, you should be able to rotate engine forward just enough to reach the two back nuts holding the coil plate to the studs, mine are 13 mm, remove the two front bolts (10mm) that are connected to the upper intake manifold and the coil plate should lift up and out. Check your plug wires at this time and replace if there's any chance they're not perfect, also I replaced the plugs, I used OEM AC Delco Platinum, believe this is necessary because there are other posts with problems from off-brand plugs.
I was able to rotate it enough to get off all but the right nut. It seems too crowded to see it let alone get to it. Any advice on how to remove it. Mayb from a different angle, removing something else?? I think the manual made some steps look a little too easy.

I was able to rotate it enough to get off all but the right nut. It seems too crowded to see it let alone get to it. Any advice on how to remove it. Mayb from a different angle, removing something else?? I think the manual made some steps look a little too easy.

I ended up removing the 7mm bolts holding the three coils to the plate, and unplugged the coils, but was chastised in an earlier post for doing this, it wasn't all that much extra work. BTW, this is one of the areas you'll want to take some good quality digi photos. There are three plugs on the coil plate, two on right one on left, and a wire harness holder on the front, again, mine's a 1997.

I ended up removing the 7mm bolts holding the three coils to the plate, and unplugged the coils, but was chastised in an earlier post for doing this, it wasn't all that much extra work. BTW, this is one of the areas you'll want to take some good quality digi photos. There are three plugs on the coil plate, two on right one on left, and a wire harness holder on the front, again, mine's a 1997.
I'll try it if it makes removing the plate easier, thanks. Mine is a 2002, and I was advised to take many pics of everything i touch. I appreciate the feedback, I'm sure I'll have a few more questions to get me through.

I'll try it if it makes removing the plate easier, thanks. Mine is a 2002, and I was advised to take many pics of everything i touch. I appreciate the feedback, I'm sure I'll have a few more questions to get me through.

Hey webtyrant69, I just finished my 2002 on Saturday. After removing and installing the coil pack at least 6 times I got pretty good at it. If you haven't gotten rid of the windshield wiper linkage do that first. Disconnect the drivers side arm at the wiper end & the center crank to remove it completely. Undo the link from the center crank to the wiper motor at the wiper motor. Then move the passenger wiper until you have as much room as possible to get your arm back around behind the coil pack.

You will also want to get rid of the MAP sensor and bracket (black square box right in front of the coil pack with a couple of vacuum lines attached) take the sensor off the bracket and then pull the bolt off of the unpper intake to get the bracket off, be careful with the vacuum line from the MAP sensor to the fuel pressure regulator, I snapped mine off the second or third time I pulled the MAP sensor. Pull the vacuum line from the intake to the power brake booster. You can flip the hose over under the cowl or just pull the fitting out of the brake booster and pull the hose completely out, careful the hose fittings on the intake and the brake booster are plastic!

Get the wire harness out of the way as best as you can, if you want everything is going to get unplugged anyway so remove all of the connections and flip the whole harness over the radiator, note where all the connectors go. There are 2 connections you have to keep track of, the O2 sensor is on the back exhaust manifold (who's F---en idea was that!) and the crank sensor wire is on the back side of the engine. The 3 pin connector that goes to the back drivers side connector on the coil pack (This is the crank trigger wire) doesn't attached to the main wire loom so you might want to tie a piece of string to it. I wasn't watching for it and it got trapped under the throttle body, I didn't notice until I went to make all of the connections on the coil and wound up having to strip everything off to lift the upper intake so I could get the damn connector out. Trust me, the engine will not run without that connection. Some of the connectors like the O2 sensor have a locking pin that goes through the release mechanism, they can be a pain in the ass to get out, just do the best you can with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Get a ratchet with a 13mm deep socket and a 3-4 inch extension, use your hand to guide the socket over the nut on the stud, just run your finger along the aluminum mounting plate from the passengers side to the drivers side, you will feel the nut. Then just guide the socket over the nut, you should just have to back it off 1 turn then spin it off with you finger, there is a tip on the stud so you will have to grab the nut to take it off, use a magnet if you have to, don't drop it because it probably won't make it to the ground.

Good Luck,

Steven

hey sparky,

thanks so much for all the info, it is helping me immensely. quick question: did you remove the passenger strut mount to take the valve cover off?? it is a real pain in the a@# to get it off with the strut mount on. do you know how to remove it? i removed 1 bolt on top and the haynes manual says theres 1 on the bottom but i dont see it. any advice??

hey sparky,

thanks so much for all the info, it is helping me immensely. quick question: did you remove the passenger strut mount to take the valve cover off?? it is a real pain in the a@# to get it off with the strut mount on. do you know how to remove it? i removed 1 bolt on top and the haynes manual says theres 1 on the bottom but i dont see it. any advice??

I spent a couple of hours trying to get that damn bracket off of the engine, pulled off the bolts that hold the A/C Compressor and the bolt into the cylinder head and I couldn't get it off, so I gave up and pulled the 4 screws out of the valve cover and found you can sneak it by without pulling the mount off.

Be careful putting the valve cover back on, the screws are really easy to cross thread if you try and drive them in without turning them carefully in by hand at least 2-3 threads.. I cross threaded the screw under the passenger strut mount and thought I was screwed (no pun intended). Luckly I only buggered up 1 or 2 threads before I stopped and backed off. Had to get a 6mm X 1mm tap and clean up the threads.

If you want to save a little time the 4 push rods in the corners don't have to come off, they go underneath the gaskets. Most of the rest go over or through the gasket and need to come out.

Sparky