INTAKE GASKET MAIN PAGE, PLEASE POST Q'S&A'S HERE!

Hello, I have a question, I am replacing the intake manifold gasket and I up to the point of removing the fuel rail. The Haynes manual says to just unscrew the fuel inlet line and disconnect, but I have unscrewed it and it won't come out. Can anyone tell me if I need a disconnector tool? Any advice will be appreciated.

Normally they are hard to get loose as the o-rings holding in the fuel injectors stick. Assuming everything was disconnected according to the manual. Kind of pry up with a large screwdriver. Try each end be careful and don't break anything. If you missed a bolt you will see where it is. When reinstalling lube the o-rings with vasoline.

Thanks rhandwor. The injectors are free, it is just the inlet line that won't come loose. I have pryed pretty hard.

The gas line should have a flare nut that attaches the fuel line to the rail.

It does, I loosenend it, and it is totally off of the rail and just sitting on the line.

I think you have it ready to pull off. If not run your hand along the rail you will feel anything that is holding it. At the end look for a short legged U gas line for each side. Their should be a supply and a return gas line. A vacuum hose for the pressure regulator is this attached. The regulator to a brace. And I think 3 braces for each line. That should be all their is and maybe more than what you have.

Thank you for your help. When I get off work I am gonna try to get it loose.

Success, one blown head gasket and a new IMG and I am good to go. Thanks to all for the information in this thread.

I just replaced the Intake Manifold gasket on my 98 venture also changed my spark plugs. Now the damn van won't start. It turns over but won't start. It is getting spark. When i tried to hold it open to make it start it backfired. I took one of the spark plugs out it smells like it is getting gas so definitely a back fire.The battery is fine. Does anyone have any suggestions?

I am in the process of replacing mine, that is my worst fear is when I get it back together it won't run. Do you have a Haynes manual? I would check all of the electrical connections to make sure they are connected to the right spots. Follow the diagram to ensure they are.

Thanks for the advice. I did check it but the damn thing is driving me crazy! I made double sure everything is back in order. The only thing I can think of is if The Fuel injectors are not tight enough? I only pushed them down in.:banghead:

That really sucks. Maybe check for spark, and if it is sparking check to see if it is getting gas. I am replacing it on an Alero, and I had to remove the fuel rail. I am not sure if yours has the same kind or not. I have a pressure relief on the far side of it. Maybe the fuel systme has to be pressurized. Just guesses, but with spark and gas it should run.

I would go over your work it is easy to forget to plug something in if you don't do it every day. I always lube the injector o-rings with vasoline so they go in easier. Are all connections on the air intake tight with no cracks. Is the mass air flow sensor plugged in. temp sensor. Is the injector harness plugged in. Did you remove a ground and forget to install it this is very important. If you have a test light check an injector a test light across both prongs from the harness should flash. Use a flashlight as you hunt for something unplugged.
After you get it running if rough spray around the injector base and intake manifold with carb cleaner if you find a leak it will smooth as you spray.
If the injectors aren't leaking and you were able to bolt the hold down clamps
tight it should run. Did you hook up the vacuum for the pressure regulator.

Double check your plug wires are in the correct order. Very easy to mess up. Mine were numbered before I removed them, but the numbers didn't match the cylinders.

Thank-you so much all of you! And a very special thanks to rhandwor. The injectors were lose and i did what you said. Worked like a charm. It is running a little rough now so i am going to spray the carb cleaner.Thanks a million!

I'm glad it worked for you. If it still runs rough and the plug wires were correct. It is possible to put the wrong wires on the injectors as they are color coded somebody can find the colors for you. For somebody going to do this use tape and number injector wires if you don't have a diagram.

While changing the IMG for the second time, I found an excessive amount of sludgy oil buildup on the topend of the engine. I have cleaned everything extremely well from the engine block up, I now would like to remove the oil pan to clean there. I have searched this entire site and on the web for help or instructions for the process of removal of the oil pan.
unfortunatly Haynes was supposed to publish the manual on 10-1-2006 but I can't find one anywhere yet (they say it is still a couple of weeks out).
Has anyone here ever removed the oil pan on a venture? If so I would really appreciate a couple of hints as to how to remove the pan from the van.
It appears that there are some hidden bolts that I can not see.
We have a 2002 Venture.

Thanks very much for your help.
OZ OUT

I have never done an oil pan on a venture. But I have done many other vehicles.When removing an oil pan ii is important to have enough clearance to clear the oil pump strainer. Sometimes you can take the bolts out of the motor mounts and jack up the engine. You have to be careful not to break anything. Always clean the strainer for the oil pump. You will need 4 to 6 inches of clearance. Sometimes you can turn the pan or get a wrench in and remove the strainer. Your best bet is when it is on jack stands is use a flashlight and look around the pan. If you are scared buy a pan gasket. Count the holes and look where they are then count the bolts on the pan. They should be equal. After everything is clean and you are ready to reassemble if using a flat type gasket use adhesive and glue the gasket to the pan. If using some of the new rubber gaskets get about six longer bolts this way you can be sure the gasket is setting correctly push up the pan and start some other bolts and remove the long bolts. If anybody used silicone use a small screwdriver and clean out all bolt holes. Everytime you start a bolt check that you can see gasket around it.

Hello, this may be a dumb question, but here it goes. I am taking the alternator support bracket off so I can get to the rear valve cover. I have removed all of the obvious bolts, and it is still on very tight. I see one more on the back, but I can't get far enough in to see if that is holding it on. Can anyone tell me if that is one that attaches the bracket on? And if not, do I have to take the tensioner pulley off to remove the bracket? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Use a flashlight and look at the mount you can see the outline if it is bent and goes to the back side their will be a bolt in it. Run your hand around the turn and you should feel it. Always look at what you are doing. The mount is probably 1/4 inch thick. Look at all sides if it is in the back use a flashlight and mirror. As you get more experienced this will come a lot easier to you.

I did feel around, and it does feel like it belongs to that bracket. But that is the only bolt left and it felt like the bracket is on there really solid for just being one bolt. That is why I was wondering the tension pulley was attached the whole way through.

If the bolt for the tensioner goes through the bracket you will have to remove it 1/4 inch plate isn't enough to hold a tensioner bolt it probably has 3/4 inch in the head.

I am gonna try that when I get home. This has been the strangest car I ever worked on. Everything is so tight and hard to get to.

The alternator bracket has 4 bolts. 3 horizontal and 1 vertical that is around the back. Have you tilted the motor forward? Access is not that bad with the motor tilted.

I haven't tilted the motor yet. How do you do that? I have been working on it in my spare time, so I haven't tried anything since Monday. I am hoping once I take the tension pulley off, it will be easier to get to. I took the car apart to replace a stuck lifter, and woudn't it figure it was one of the ones in the back.

Go to a parts store and k-d or lisle sells a tool it is a turn buckle with a couple of l shaped ends on it. Usually you have to disconnect a mount and gradually pull it forward. This holds the engine steady. You could make your own tool to hold it.

Thanks. I may give that a try if I can't get it off without it. Hopefully this will be a one time occurance with this car, so I hate to buy a tool. I can get at the rear bolt, I am just having problems with leverage due to the pulley being in the way. If this doesn't work I will definatley try lifting the engine.

Tilting the engine is quite easy. Just remove the 2 upper forward mounts. Use a strap or a rope and pull the engine forward, and secure the rope under the bumper. It is very easy to do, and should help you out. The tensioner does not need to come off to remove the alternator bracket.

Got it! Actually all I did was take the tensioner off, and the bracket just came off. I was able to remove the bad lifter. Tonight is going to be the reassembly. In most cars there is probably a rear bolt for the bracket, but as I have experienced this car is much different. I actually do have another question. When I got to the pushrods, there was one that had play in it, so I am assuming that is the lifter that is stuck. When I took the lifter out it does not look like it is damaged. Does the inside of the lifter move as well as the whole cylinder? The rest of the pushrods and lifters are tight.

Their is tension like a spring in a lifter. If you take a push rod and push down it should come back their is a definate tension. After they get oil in them they get a lot stiffer. Remove a good one next to it and check push rod length. Also check how it feels.Roll the two push rods on a flat surface like glass. A bent push rod won't roll properly. Put your hand on the valve spring and wiggle a worn valve guide can be felt. If you find anything out of the ordinary stop at an auto machine shop they sell parts and are helpful.
You can also have a worn lobe on a cam shaft.

Thank you so much for the advice, it is helping me so much. I pressed down on the inside of the lifter, and it is definatley not popping back.

Hi,


1st post here.


I noticed on a routine check of the Van when waxing it one night some yellow sludge under the oil filler cap. Verified with more yellow sludge inside the cover, and some external oil leaking also. I was aware of the intake gasket history before I bought 3.4l vehicle so here I go with the job.


I'm going to get the dealer gasket (89017279). Is this the best one available? Also in reading all these posts what is the consensus on the 8 bolts used during this job? Should I replace them all or re-use them and add threadlocker?

If it's worth anything I had G-05 coolant in there but may go back to "green" when I'm done. Did most of you go back to standard coolant?

Thanks in advance.

I would wire brush the bolts and clean the bolts then use some locktite. I used green coolant. I would look at a felpro gasket and the dealer gasket and go with what you think is best. I think the plastic gaskets were a bad decision by GM.
Make sure the gasket surface is good and clean.

When I had my van repaired the mechanic flushed the system good and went back to green coolant.

Gasket: I understand Felpro now makes the gasket and it won't rot like the older ones. Clean the bolts and load them down with the lock-tite that looks like wood putty. Definitely go back to good old Prestone and rock on. I gave you the same info as rhandwor but just confirming it for you.

There is a TSB for the gasket replacement with a parts list so use the forum search engine and you'll find it. Or, swing on by your ringy-dingy-doo-dah-day Chevy dealer and ask them for a copy of the TSB.

If you replace the intake gasket with the new revised one you may continue to use DexCool coolant in your cooling system. Just replace it every 2 to 3 years and 30,000 miles with a good flush. The DexCool is silicate free and better for some components in your engine / cooling system. I replaced my intake gasket back in July 2002 with the revised gasket and continued with using DexCool, changing it out with the new guidelines and the van has gone just as far on the new gasket without any problems.

It's just not the DexCool rotting the gasket, if the stuff contacts air then it turns to jelly. My cousin had a radiation repair shop and a used Chevy truck and the first thing he did was switch to Presetone because he said he had seen to many cases where the DexCool jellified and caused one hell'ava lot of problems. Don't believe me? This article is from consumeraffairs.com so please do yourself a favor and read it because if you do I bet you will flush that crap out and put in some good Prestone. http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/gm_dexcool.html
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2006/08/gm_dexcool.html

And what *really* gets me; GM is still using that crud! I mean, like, is that the biggest DUH you ever saw in your life, or what? OH! But we have fixed the problem now. Yeah, right. Wait five years down the road then see what happens. It's your 'thang so do what you want to do, and if you don't watch out, GM will stick it to you too. UUHH Baby! Gim'me another shot of that DexCool and lets get smashed. Look, your car is the second biggest inverstment you will ever make, (your house is first). so why would you gamble on your cars engine and use DexCool? Why not do the sensible thing and use tried-and-true Prestone or some other green stuff.

No Sir, I flush and change Prestone anti-freeze in our Taurus and Marquis every three years at Christmas time along with an ATF fluid change and we keep rockin' on down the road. Punkin' Head is coming on so have to run. BOO!

One reason air is getting into the cooling system and causing problems is defective radiator caps. These caps should be replaced on a regular basis as they are a "wear item" and will not last forever as they are subjected to hot and cold temperature variations and pressure. For the small cost of a replacement cap it's a wise investment. The biggest mistake was GM saying that the coolant doesn't need changing for 5 yrs/ 150,000 miles. If you change the coolant and flush your system on a regular basis, you shouldn't have the problems associated with long term change intervals. I've used DexCool for years and have not had the problems others have had, maybe I'm lucky, maybe it has to do with my regular flush & refill of my cooling system. Many components nowadays are "maintenance free" such as batteries or are extended service life, and consumers are expecting that they don't have to do as much as in the past to their vehicles, which in some cases is not true. GM should cover their "as*es" and have a publicity campaign to educate their customers as to the proper change intervals and procedures of the DexCool coolant. Yes I did have a problem wth the intake gasket on one of my Ventures, but I have travelled the same amount of mileage and the same amount of time has elapsed since the replacement gasket was installed and I have not had any further problems, and I still am using DexCool. In fact my new 2006 Chevrolet Uplander has DexCool in it and I don't plan on switching, just keep an eye on the level and change it regularly. I treat it like I would any other coolant I have used in the past.

I will be buying the gasket at the end of the week when I am back in town. The Fel-Pro and the dealer ones are similar price. Which one is the best?

Get a FelPro gasket and be done with it. I THINK FelPro makes gaskets for GM but not sure so don't take a chance.

Bad radiator caps allow air in the system: Sure they do, but it shouldn't cause the anti freeze to jellify like DexCool does. DUH? Over the years, how many problems has Prestone caused any engine? ZERO, period, end of story and I rest my case.

I would also buy a felpro gasket. The green is cheaper and if you flush it every 60,000 you will be ok. Why pay extra for a product that caused problems.

Bad radiator caps allow air in the system: Sure they do, but it shouldn't cause the anti freeze to jellify like DexCool does. DUH? Over the years, how many problems has Prestone caused any engine? ZERO, period, end of story and I rest my case.
DexCool has a different chemical makeup than Prestone. DexCool is a OAT (Organic Acid Technology) containing a different set of corrosion inhibiting additives, and contain organic acid salts. It's also less alkaline than other coolants.It is also silicate free.
Prestone is an ethylene glycol based, or propylene glycol based (less toxic version). It also has a different set of corrosion inhibitors. One reason why air causes the DexCool to "jellify" is because of it's different chemical makeup. It's like comparing two prescription medicines that treat the same malady. While they may be similar in the way they appear,and treat the problem, their different "chemical makeup" which makes them unique can cause different and varying side effects, just as air affects the DexCool, but not the other brand coolants.

So I bought a Fel-Pro from Canadian Tire. What is odd is that they advertise a 5 piece Fel-Pro intake kit with the regular gasket and a 7 piece Fel-Pro intake kit (includes valve covers) with the PermaDry Plus gasket.

Do I "have" to get the PermaDry Plus gasket, is the "standard" one no good??

So I bought a Fel-Pro from Canadian Tire. What is odd is that they advertise a 5 piece Fel-Pro intake kit with the regular gasket and a 7 piece Fel-Pro intake kit (includes valve covers) with the PermaDry Plus gasket.

Do I "have" to get the PermaDry Plus gasket, is the "standard" one no good??
You probably don't "have" to get the PermaDry Plus gasket set, but if the cost isn't that much more, wouldn't it give you a little "extra" piece of mind?
A salesman told me about these gaskets. The PermaDry line is made of a premium rubber that is molded. You can use it in place of OEM gaskets when you repair or rebuild your engine. It is supposed to provide a more even clamping surface to ensure a better seal. It is always better to spend a little bit more upfront on quality replacement parts when repairing your engine than having to shell out more later to re-fix the repair. The standard gasket set is still made to specification, but if you are planning on keeping the vehicle for awhile, I'd opt for the premium set.

Thanks again to all that contributed here.

The job went over 4 evenings. I had 2 small radiant propane heaters keeping me warm. The hard parts were definitely the rear coil pack bolts and the passenger side rear alternator bolt. I made the mistake of thinking I would automatically know which bolts went where upon reassembly – I had to re-do about 5 bolts because of that. A few digital pictures beforehand would have helped out. I also did the plugs and some wires, as well as the oil pump shaft o-ring (that was a pain to pull up and out). The cooling system sure takes a lot of that time to flush and fill/bleed.
After a day of driving and going from sub zero to hot on purpose I see no more leaks. I did put in a cooler thermostat since I figured I cover the rad with cardboard anyways and when we tow in the summer it will help. I think though that is causing me to have a temp gauge that displays odd. I have a http://scantools.net ElmScan OBD-II and it said I was at about 80C when the gauge was still not even at the beginning of the cold line – it was a few millimeters away. I will have to monitor it from cold on a trip that brings it up higher with slow crawling or idling and see how the actual and displayed temps are. I suppose now I know that changing the thermostat is a slow 1 hour job but I had had enough for the month!! – I’ll watch it and see.
For the price of under $100 us it sure has been handy when that engine light comes on. It told me the camshaft position sensor had an issue when it displayed the check engine light after this job. All I did was disconnect and connect the plug for it and it fixed it. Other wise I would have had to pay the dealer here anywhere from $40-$70 just to read the code.
Again without all this info here I would have been going into it blind with just the manual.
Thanks.

Watch your gas mileage as a lower set temp thermostat doesn't allow the computer to change loops and you will be running a lot richer fuel mixture.

I did a normal in town trip cycle with the ElmScan and I peak at about 82-84 celcius. That is too low I think so I'm going to put back in the warmer thermostat (I believe stock is a 90 celcius but will probably read around 95C)



Now that I am familiar with getting to the t-stat is should only take an hour or less.

I was wondering if any of you have replaced or performed an engine R&R on their Venture. The Haynes manual states that the engine comes out through the bottom side of the vehicle.

The manual warns that the major deterrent on this job for the home mechanic is getting the vehicle high enough to gain the required clearance to slide the engine along with the front sub-frame out from under the vehicle.

So I was wondering if any of you have performed this job at home without the luxury of a vehicle lift/hoist. I would be interested to hear any methods or techniques any of you have used to replace an engine on a Venture van.

I need to do a head gasket job on my 98 112,000 mile Venture and I fear that damage was done to the bearings so I would like to just pull the engine out so I can check for other damage and thoroughly clean the engine of sludge/coolant-oil mix or may just need another engine.

For the last month we have been dealing with erratic engine temperatures and noticed the coolant was low. After adding coolant the temperature is normal for about 3 days of driving to work and misc in town. (About 50-70 miles) I saw no external leaks and saw no obvious signs it is burning out the exhaust and the engine oil looks good with no water droplets and level is not high so it appeared that the coolant was not going into the oil.

The intake gaskets and all of the lifters were replaced at 88,000 miles by a dealership and they reinstalled the orange type fluid. I have been adding prestone anti-freeze that says can be mixed with any color or types of antifreeze…..you guys ever use this stuff?

After a couple of weeks of adding a quart of coolant every 3 days we acquired an inconsistent tappet noise (sounded high like excessive rocker arm lash) that would go away after a few minutes of running The engine also runs rough when first starts but then smoothes out after a minute and seems to coincide with the tappet noise. The tappet noise does occur only when cold starting but is sporadic and not occurring on every cold start.

And now for the Grand Finale……….. my wife came home the other night and said that now the engine oil light came on. I went out to check the oil and no oil registered on the stick. I pulled the oil filler cap and discovered that all the oil is in the top of the engine and not draining back to the pan. I stuck a screwdriver in the oil filler and found a thin oil/coolant mix around 3” deep. The odd thing is that the stuff that drains back to the pan has the look of fresh oil right after an oil change. It looks like the 3 part combination of orange coolant, supposed universal coolant and engine oil mixes without any separation droplets and has a very clear look as opposed to looking like other coolant/oil contaminated cocktails that have an appearance more like melted coffee ice-cream

That is why it fooled me, because it LOOKED like good oil and the level was normal but I should have felt it with my fingers because it has a distinctly sticky/gummy feel that I may have noticed as something being wrong.

At this point the best I can hope for is that the gummy/sticky mixture has magical lubricating qualities that stick to friction surfaces and maybe my bearings and other friction surfaces survived. ( I'm trying to be optimistic)

I have seen other vehicles done by removing the radiator,either moving the condenser out of the way or disconnecting. The braces and grill have to be removed. The hood has to be removed. Possibly the front bumper has to come off. All this depends on your tools and knowledge. You basically have to look at the front end and what you can remove with your tools. You will ned to buy or borrow an engine hoist. Autozone has a loaner program.

I did this repair about ten months ago, and it appears to be failing. I used the new gasket style, but I'm starting to question whether I installed the bolts correctly.

Blackstone says I still have traces of coolant in my oil, and I see a very small external leak right under the thermostat housing (pooling in a little black recessed area).

First, I re-used the old bolts. I've been told that's a no-no.

Second, I don't remember whether I used the blue thread lock or the white GM stuff that's like drywall mud.

Third, my torque wrench doesn't read in-lbs, so I just divided by twelve and did what felt right.

Fourth, that one bolt on the front passenger side that has to go in with a crow's foot threw me. The crow's foot really seems like it would mess with the torque.

So, here's my question.

Would it help/hurt anything if I go get the new bolts, take off the plenum and replace the bolts and carefully re-torque them to the new specs? I'd really like to avoid the whole lower intake removal and replacement. I've got the right gasket in there, but I've obviously done something wrong in mating the two surfaces, which must be the bolt installation or torque.

What do you think?

I would do the job over again using a felpro gasket. Then I would get another vehicle as another 3.1 had camshaft bearings go out shortly after the second gasket. He said he changed the oil every 3000 miles. If my wifes malibu's gasket leaks again this is what I'm going to do. I'm sure this isn't what you want to hear. Since I'm not sure how long the other vehicle leaked wait for another opinion.

I am installing lower intake on a 1999 venture.The felpro gasket kit has rubber guides for push rods.Instructions that came with kit seems to me that you touch rods to guides .does not appear right or I'am I missing something. Great forum by the way !!

I never saw any rubber guides for push rods. The valve stems have rubber seals to keep oil from running down into the engine. The push rods go into the hydraulic lifter and up to the rocker arm. They have a hole in the center to oil the rocker arm and bearings. As the cam shaft moves the push rod up and down the angle is always changing and a rubber seal would be quickly torn up.
Make sure you recheck the instructions and don't damage the engine.

Hello all, Happy New Year!

Well, my first post and I am on day two of replacing the lower intake on my 02 Montana. I am at the point where I am trying to get the power steering pump out of the way. I have read that the fuel rail does not have to be moved to relocate the pump. I have been trying to get the pump out but there doesn't seem to be enough play to relocate it. As I try and remove the pump from the bracket the back of the pump is against the fuel rail. I was hoping not to remove the fuel rail but I can't see how to get it out with the fuel rail installed.

Two questions;

1. Has anyone relocated the pump with the fuel rail installed?

2. If the fuel rail has to be removed, is there a trick to getting the injectors free from the manifold?

Dave...

Hi, Which year and model of your chevy? Can you please let us know the dealer name. I will appreciate.

Regards

asva


I just wanted to let the forum know that the GM dealership has covered half of the expense. I have only owned the van for 3 months and i bought it at a non gm dealership. My total cost was 380 canadian taxes included.

I hope this is helpfull for someone

Hi, canyou please send me step by step instructions for jreplacing gaskets. I will appreciate.

Thanks and regards

asva


I have step by step instructions, I can email you the attachment

I seem to be having the same issue that everyone else in this thread has had. My venture was overheating and had a mechanic look at it and the intake gaskets had both cracked and let coolant into the oil. Had the gaskets replaced and engine cleaned up. I also had the water pump and thermostat replaced at the same time. After having all this done, I took it out and within 2 miles the same thing was happening. the temp gage would shoot up to the red and the heater would blow cold air. while trying to limp it home I hit a bump and the heater kicked back on and the temp gage immediately dropped to normal level. After I opened the hood there was still coolant in the resovior at the same level that it was when I first started driving it. Any ideas? COuld it be a air bubble or possible some sort of sensor that is causing the problem?

I also had the water pump and thermostat replaced at the same time. After having all this done, I took it out and within 2 miles the same thing was happening. the temp gage would shoot up to the red and the heater would blow cold air. while trying to limp it home I hit a bump and the heater kicked back on and the temp gage immediately dropped to normal level. After I opened the hood there was still coolant in the resovior at the same level that it was when I first started driving it. Any ideas? COuld it be a air bubble or possible some sort of sensor that is causing the problem?
I wouldn't be surprised if it was an air pocket in the system causing your trouble. I wonder if the mechanic properly bled the system after refilling it with coolant. Keep an eye on your system for the next few days/week to see if it continues to be normal. Hitting that bump may have dislodged the air pocket and sent it through the system to dissipate. I've also seen scale and other contaminants in a poorly maintained cooling system cause problems when the system was refilled and not properly flushed. The sudden jarring of the vehicle can sometimes dislodge the contaminants. You might want to take the vehicle back to the mechanic and have them bleed, or re-bleed the system to make sure all the air is out of it.

Great info. I have a 2001 3.4 and lower front intake is starting to leak. Is the crows foot wrench that some people use on the front left bolt nessary? If so does that effect torque.

hello olsen:
please can you send me the instruccions,to replace the intake gasket,on my 97 pontiac transport...??? thanks so much
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