Changing inner tie rods and stuff..

[bigrockk]

2007 GMC Ext Cab, 2500HD, 6L Gas, with 195,000 KM

Well took the truck for a safety check and I need to do inner tie rods,
R/F rebound bumper and they tell me the front end is to low.

Just a couple of questions, I have done outer tie rods in the past without much trouble and I THINK I have a good idea how to do the inners but is there anything I need to watch out for? Any tricks to make the job easier.
Local parts place has a tool loan program so that will help and I know I need blue lock tight for the threads....

They also told me the R/F rebound bumper is broken/smashed and the front end is too low? How do you raise the front end?

Appreciate any thoughts!

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by bigrockk

2007 GMC Ext Cab, 2500HD, 6L Gas, with 195,000 KM

Well took the truck for a safety check and I need to do inner tie rods,
R/F rebound bumper and they tell me the front end is to low.

Just a couple of questions, I have done outer tie rods in the past without much trouble and I THINK I have a good idea how to do the inners but is there anything I need to watch out for? Any tricks to make the job easier.
Local parts place has a tool loan program so that will help and I know I need blue lock tight for the threads....

They also told me the R/F rebound bumper is broken/smashed and the front end is too low? How do you raise the front end?
Appreciate any thoughts!

the torsion bars adjust the height ....there are studs you screw cw to increase height ...the cv joints must be straight ,,this is the correct height on level ground , you must adjust 1 turn cw then bounce the truck a few times then check for cv joint being straight ...probably 1.5 turns cw ..

inner tie rods fail because water gets into the poorly sealed boots...I used tie raps/plastic ties ....

you get a small propane torch heat up the area where the threads are and then with a big open end wrench on the hex and a pipe wrench on the rod rotate the hex while holding the rod steady,,,,,,do not rotate the rod !

when installing blue thread locker [med] and torque to around 70ft lbs....



adjusting is a little tricky...using a fishing line from the rear to front wheels ,,,with the steering wheel straight adjust the tie rod so you have 1/4inch of toe at the front leading edge of the tire../ check so that both sides are the same with the wheels on the ground....

that small plastic bumper is usless ....

you probably need new bilstien shocks ....

[bigrockk]

Thanks again for the quick reply and the good info, very much appreciated!

[nineball481]

Originally Posted by j cAT

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inner tie rods fail because water gets into the poorly sealed boots...I used tie raps/plastic ties ....

you get a small propane torch heat up the area where the threads are and then with a big open end wrench on the hex and a pipe wrench on the rod rotate the hex while holding the rod steady,,,,,,do not rotate the rod !

when installing blue thread locker [med] and torque to around 70ft lbs....



adjusting is a little tricky...using a fishing line from the rear to front wheels ,,,with the steering wheel straight adjust the tie rod so you have 1/4inch of toe at the front leading edge of the tire../ check so that both sides are the same with the wheels on the ground......

I'm not understanding the fishing line deal. As long as I get it close, I can get it in for alignment, right?
Also, the instructions say to stake the end of the tie rod. What does that mean?
Thanks.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by nineball481

I'm not understanding the fishing line deal. As long as I get it close, I can get it in for alignment, right?
Also, the instructions say to stake the end of the tie rod. What does that mean?
Thanks.

what the fishing line does is get both front wheels pointing straight. both fwd leading tire edges slightly toed in toward each other by 1/4 inch.

now the tires will track straight and will follow the road with bouncing with good control.

the inner tie rod you use blue lock tight on the threads. I am not aware of stake the tie rod end in this meaning.

one end is the rod with the use of a locking jam nut to secure in the outer tie rod. the other is a stud thread that screws into the rod. this is where the blue lock tight goes.

[DeltaP]

Just for clarity when you say "both fwd leading tire edges slightly toed in toward each other by 1/4 inch". Do you mean 1/8" inch per side for a total of 1/4" or what? The way it first read to me was a total of 1/2"! Even a 1/4" total still seems like a hell of alot of toe-in.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by DeltaP

Just for clarity when you say "both fwd leading tire edges slightly toed in toward each other by 1/4 inch". Do you mean 1/8" inch per side for a total of 1/4" or what? The way it first read to me was a total of 1/2"! Even a 1/4" total still seems like a hell of alot of toe-in.

with the vehicle on the ground the tire measured at the shoulder half way up the line should be 1/4 in space between the tire bulge . then checking on the other side you should have the same space with the steering wheel straight.

it seems like alot but this is because your measuring at the outer edge of the tire. the more you go out the greater the amount from the pivot point. if you decrease this to less than 1/4in the more you decrease the more the vehicle will reduce proper tracking and you will require to move the steering alot to go straight.

this does get it close . I have had lots of good luck with this method..

you could do 3/16in see if its ok.

[nineball481]

Thanks for the info. I changed both sides, inners & outters, in 3 hours. The only thing that threw me was the crimped hose clamps. Had to replace with screw hose clamps.

Does that boot fill with fluid? Both had fluid in them when I removed them. The driver's side had quite a bit (1/4 cup).

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by nineball481

Thanks for the info. I changed both sides, inners & outters, in 3 hours. The only thing that threw me was the crimped hose clamps. Had to replace with screw hose clamps.

Does that boot fill with fluid? Both had fluid in them when I removed them. The driver's side had quite a bit (1/4 cup).

the tie rods come with grease or non.

what type did you get. I use the moog grease type.

oem may have been non so it was filled with a fluid.

was there any grease fitting on this front end ? which had the fittings ?

how did the alignment work out is it close ?

[nineball481]

Originally Posted by j cAT

the tie rods come with grease or non.

what type did you get. I use the moog grease type.

oem may have been non so it was filled with a fluid.

was there any grease fitting on this front end ? which had the fittings ?

how did the alignment work out is it close ?

I had seen the moog parts but went with NAPAs brand. The Moogs cost about 3x more...... and probably worth the $$.

The parts I installed are greasable. Orig. on truck was greasable.

The boot I'm referring to covers the inner tie rod and the pinion? There is also a breather tube that runs from one boot, across the truck, to the other boot.

I ended up using a tape measure. Measuring the distance from center of tie rod to back of inner tie rod (where threads start). That did pretty good, then took for alignment.

I appreciate all the help and information. Thank you.