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#1
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need B16a2 in by march 7th (auto to man.)
well, a while ago i went to the track for the first time with 92teggsr, took hios car cuz i had nothing to run, well i did, but I wouldnt take a 6 auto stang to the track.
anyways, may 7th its test and tune again and i wanna go with my hatch. I plan on CRVTEC later, but for now Im gonna swap in the JDM B16A2 cuz I will just use that tranny, head, and ECU later as the starting point. currently, my hatch is an auto, but I need to go to manual. I found the swap for 1850 @ hmotors, and they pricematch so please tell me who advertises it the cheapest. but after the swap I also need- clutch pedal and hanger, clutch master cylinder, hydraulic line. I am assuming I need to get something so that the stick will mount where the auto stick is now, I have never been in that area of a car so I dont really know how the stick stays where it is, Im pretty sure that the ball on the shifter sits in something and that is how it pivots and stuff, but what it sits in, what is that called? anything else I need? does Hmotors cut the harness? do I have to put in the clutch switch and have to hold the clutch to start or can i do without it? I want remote start later and dont wanna mess with it. do you think in one weekend I could do the complete swap? I have pulled engines and rebuilt them but only in a bug, which looks 100x less complicated than all the crap you gotta disconnect in a honda. lastly, it will have my current PVC CAI cuz I wont have enough for a quality intake, It will have some 150 dolar headers out of JCW, probably pacesetter. and 2" piping tp the axle, then it is 2.25" I think to a prospeed muffler(came with the car) so I am gonna say the cheap I/H/E may give me 5-10 hp at the fly, so with 180HP, 2100 lbs, and a pretty good driver could I make a 14 flat. I doubt it cuz a 5th gen with B18C1, 5 sp., AEM CAI, focuz 4-2-1, exhaust ran a 14.2 when i was at the track last time, I dont know how good of a driver he was though. also I have 17's how much does that slow you down from little 15's stock (I dont have them to put on anyways though) sorry for the long post but i only get to the computer every other few days.
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current -84 datsun 720 4x4(2nd time)-93 accord-90 camry V6-90 warrior-94 300ex history: -01 R1-04 daytona 600-94 teg RS-95 teg LS -91 teg RS-92 teg GSR-94 civic CX hatch (3 times) -94 civic DX-96 civic HX-97 Accord LX-72 superbeetle -74 beetle-84 silverado-66 c10-74 maverick-78 280z -84 200sx-86 tercel wagon-95 mustang V6 Last edited by 94tegRS; 04-13-2003 at 02:30 PM. |
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#2
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What year is your hatch,5th gen?If so get a 92-95 B16A from a siRII or 94-95 delsol B16A3.The B16A2 is the 99-00 Si and is OBD IIb and is a pain to put in a 5th gen since the ECU doesn't plug in and the sensors are different on the motor.Like wise if it is a 6th gen you would want to avoid pre 95 motors for the same reasons.
With the conversion (auto to manual) everything should bolt up,just make sure you get all the parts.The only thing is the tranny mount is different and you need to get a hold of a custom one for the changeover,or have yours customized. Hmotors does sell the uncut harnesses,but since it is from a RHD car the plugs are backwards and are good for nothing more than the using the plugs and wires. I can pull my motor and put it back in,in a few hours,but I know it,for a first run I'd give yourself a few days leway. Avoid JCW crap products,you're better off with the stock parts.Save up and get decent I/H/E. 92-95 B16A's use 10.4:1 compression pistons and are 170 at the crank,the US uses 10.2:1 and is 160,but reguardless when you add I/H/E your not adding HP,you're only freeing up what is already there.So if yuo want to have more than 170 at the crank you need to replace internal power making parts,like pistons,cams,bore it over,etc... If your going to be racing around or for better driving in general,get yourself a ITR tranny,or at least a LSD of some kind.
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#3
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yes its a 5th gen, and I dont think the engine im planning on is a 99+ SI cuz it is 2k complete. must be the B16A1 SIR2 Im thinking about. and Ive got the new brake pedal in and working and got the master cyl;inder and cluch pedal in also, need the bols to bolt the resorvoir to the strut tower still though. I also have the clutch line, rubber hose, and 2nd hard line and slave cylinder but it is from a 97 civic so I dont know if it will work.
and I am not going to go with B16 forever, this is temporary, later Im taking it out and using head, tranny, ecu for a basic CRVTEC to start building. but what are you talking about I/H/E doesnt give you HP? If it frees up what is already there, do you mean the B16A2 has 185 HP, but the stock intake, exhaust manifold and exhaust restricts its power to 170. cuz I know I/H/E does something. and I also got the long bar that bolts up in he tunnel and the shifter sis in it. Im gona ordert a short shifter with bushings from ebay. the swap comes with linkage and everything. but what im thinking about is mounts and axles. do the stock mounts work that I have in my car(other than the tranny mount, since I now no that that one wont)(oh, and how "customized does it ned to be, a mechanic i know told me if i need anything welded just to come see him and hell help me out.)I thought It was a no. but i went to hasport and looked and it didnt say that it was so you could put that engine in, it sounded like they wre just stronger. and can I use the axles that come with my swap or can i use the ones on the car or do I need custom ones? oh, also, i knew one switch on the clutch was so you can start it, but mine has 2, someone told me i could be a cruise control interupt, is this true? they also told me i need to move a wire from my shifter now to the clutch pedal switch since it use to have to be in park, now i have to use the clutch? is that true as well or would the new harness take care of all of that junk. Thanks.
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current -84 datsun 720 4x4(2nd time)-93 accord-90 camry V6-90 warrior-94 300ex history: -01 R1-04 daytona 600-94 teg RS-95 teg LS -91 teg RS-92 teg GSR-94 civic CX hatch (3 times) -94 civic DX-96 civic HX-97 Accord LX-72 superbeetle -74 beetle-84 silverado-66 c10-74 maverick-78 280z -84 200sx-86 tercel wagon-95 mustang V6 |
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#4
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#5
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thanks, and so when honda rated the b16a sir2 jdm at 170HP at the crank, I shyoul;d take off about 15% for drivetrain loss, but it is still 170HP and capable of more, right? so intake, headers and exhaust could get me to say 180 at the crank. I dont wanna spend money on the internal stuff cuz I dont want the block for too long. headwork I might do before the CRVTEC build though.
and I am gonna get the shift linkage and axles with the swap, what is the torque bar. is it what the shifter sits in, the long bar from under the console to the tranny i think. also, is there anyway the stock harness can be modified to work on the B16A, probably not cuz of all the vtec related wiring huh?
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current -84 datsun 720 4x4(2nd time)-93 accord-90 camry V6-90 warrior-94 300ex history: -01 R1-04 daytona 600-94 teg RS-95 teg LS -91 teg RS-92 teg GSR-94 civic CX hatch (3 times) -94 civic DX-96 civic HX-97 Accord LX-72 superbeetle -74 beetle-84 silverado-66 c10-74 maverick-78 280z -84 200sx-86 tercel wagon-95 mustang V6 |
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#6
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Good information here. BTW how do you fit a B16A2 ECU into a 5th gen Civic. Also can you tell me where the ECU is located.
What I am trying to do is to put a B16A2 engine from a CRX into a 5th gen Civic. I heard there is a problem with the ECU not being compatible with 5th gens so I was wondering what do I have to do to solve this problem. |
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#7
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The B16A2 is from the 96-97 delsol (OBD II) and the 99-00 Si (OBD IIb),which is not compatible with a 5th gen civic,unless it is rewired. Or the B16A2 is from the EDM 5th gen civic VTi,which is compatible (OBD I) with your car.But you need to get is a B16A from a JDM civic SiR(II) 92-95.It is a drop in swap with motor,tranny,axles,shiftlinkage,ECU,and some of the mounts,very easy. What ECU are looking for the 5th gen?it is under the passengerside kick panel,I believe the rex's are under the passenger seat.I know the 1st gen rex is,but not sure of the 2nd gen.
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#8
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The B16A2 is from a CRX from Australia, so I assume it is similar to the EDM Civic VTI that you mentioned.
Can you tell me what are the differences between the B16A2 from 96-97 delsol's (OBD II) and the 99-00 Si's (OBD IIb) and the EDM B16A2's apart from differnet versions of OBD? Because B16A2's were available here(Australia) in 94 or earlier while they came out much later in US. Is the EDM B16A2 the same as a JDM B16A gen2 that came out in 92? Is the EDM B16A2 just as easy to swap, or is there some work required, and do I have to do any rewiring? You are right the ECU is near the passenger kickwell, is there a way to remove it easily without ripping too much of the carpet? Thanks jcrx your posts are very informative
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#9
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#10
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What should i get for my 98 Civic Hatch hydro tranny?? B16a2 or H22a
http://home.maconstate.edu/bvon007/images/1111.jpg http://home.maconstate.edu/bvon007/images/2222.jpg http://home.maconstate.edu/bvon007/images/3333.jpg http://home.maconstate.edu/bvon007/images/4444.jpg http://home.maconstate.edu/bvon007/images/5555.jpg http://home.maconstate.edu/bvon007/images/6666.jpg http://home.maconstate.edu/bvon007/images/7777.jpg |
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#11
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#12
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My goal is to make the car MOVE. There is currently no engine in the car what so ever. I really don't want to put a stock engine back in since the engine bay is clean already. I figured why not get a decent engine and build it outside of the car, then drop it in. I'm looking to spend around $3000. SO let me know what you think.
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#13
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I'd say just go with a B16A,definitely a good motor,will stay in your price range,and be very easy to put in. www.hmotorsonline.com www.passwordjdm.com www.hybridrevolution.com all have the motors and are good people.
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#14
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I want a GSR engine but that means I have to change my auto (FUCKING GAY) tranny too right? does it not fit?
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1997 Integra GSR and 1992 Civic LX |
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