Need muffler advice 2000 Short wheelbase exhaust

[pjw73nh]

My 2000 short wheelbase venture is in need of a muffler. It has the original on it. I am surprised at just "how" it has failed. Not the usual place(s) one would think. Usually it is at a pipe joint, a weld, or a low hanging seam where moisture and condensation would collect. Mine has "split" at the very top lengthwise (front to back) on the uppermost seam. It is a split about 10 inches long.

The OEM muffler appears to bolt up to a 2 hole flange in the front, but the rear appears to be all one-piece back to a second muffler or resonator, and then to the tailpipe. The entire exhaust is in very good shape except the muffler. I was hoping to get a replacement that would bolt up to the flange in the front, and then I would cut the rear someplace convenient and just clamp the replacement in.

Just for grins I went to the Chevy dealer to see what they had to offer. Obsolete. No replacement part available.

So, what's the best way to handle this? I don't think I want to go mail order for a couple of reasons. 1. Fitment. If it's off or doesn't fit, return is a hassle. 2. Damage in shipping. The ends get pretty beat up in the shipping process.

The OEM one that's in now, has a tilt to it, and the bolt pattern on the flange (I believe) is hard welded on to both the pipe AND the muffler. Thought I am not positive of this. If this is the case I would have to get a pretty good match to be sure it fit properly.

Anyone else replaced just the muffler on their Venture? I am looking to replace it with a non performance, quiet muffler (just like the OEM). One that will last the rest of the life of the van.

Thanks.

[dewaynep]

Yes, they were welded but you should be able to replace just the muffler. The muffler is available separately from NAPA. Part is 21325 and should be about $125. You may have to expand the pipe after the muffler to be able to fit the new muffle into the old pipe.

[pjw73nh]

Thank you dewayep. I'll try the local NAPA shop. Do you know if the muffler is a good quality one? The OEM lasted 125k. I'd like to make this one the last one I buy.

Tnx

[dewaynep]

I can't tell you if it is as good as an OEM, but I can tell you with a fair level of certainty that it will outlast any muffler you would get installed at any of the franchise muffler shops. They are of very good quality and generally fit perfectly.

[kornjulio]

I just recently replaced the factory exhaust on my '99 S10 after 165K. Most of the exhaust was in good shape, just a small hole in the muffler. Stainless steel is tough stuff.

I went ahead and ordered a complete catback by Walker exhaust from rockauto. About $130 shipped to my door. Sawzalled the factory unit off & clamped up the new system. Sounds fine.

Just bear in mind no aftermarket aluminized system will last as long as the factory stainless. But for $130, if I get 3-4 years before I replace it again, that's not too bad...

[pjw73nh]

Dewaynep & Kornjulio,

Tnx for the replies. I've got the muffler (Walker 21325) looks fine. Bought a new gasket and a couple 5/16 SS bolts. Question: How far back (or forward) should I cut the back pipe off from the muffler output? I took a brief look at it, and it looks like I only have a very short amount of outlet to deal with before it curves and starts to go up and over the axle.

Also, If the IDs of the new muffler and the old (cut off) pipe are the same, rather than try and expand one of them to fit over the other, would I be better off to just get a short piece of pipe that has an OD the same as the ID of the muffler and cutoff and just put two clamps on it? Will I have the room for it?

Tnx

[kornjulio]

If I understand your plan correctly, you just want to splice in the new muffler and keep the rest of the system?

I went to Walker's website and looked up the system. Since you already have the muffler, looks like you only need a 55121 resonator & tailpipe to do it right. It can be had for $57 shipped to your door from Amazon, among all places.

That'll give you a new system from the flange on back. That's what I'd do & save the headache of trying to piece-meal a half-assed system together.

[pjw73nh]

Hi Korn,

Tnx for the reply. I know it's only $60, but mine is in perfect shape. My whole exhaust is EXCEPT for the muffler which is split at a seam. I am hoping to drop it in.

http://www.amazon.com/Walker-Exhaust.../dp/B000C93EQG

That image doesn't look like what I have. It shows a flange. I'm guessing it's just "simile" photo. The flange on my muffler faces forward. The rear output is just a plain 4" long pipe.

Anyway, I'm going to try and splice the muffler in. If it doesn't work, I'm no worse off. I'll just get the res & TP from Amazon....

Thanks.

[kornjulio]

No problem. And I can appreciate not wanting to replace a perfectly good part. I was in the same boat on my S10.

Give it a try - as long as you don't boogar-up the muffler; you're no worse off if you can't make the tailpipe work.

Something to look out for is removing the old muffler at the flange. I assume there's studs off the front pipe and thru-holes on the muffler flange. After 10+years those nuts are pretty well rusted on there and you run a risk of snapping the studs.

Get a MAPP torch and heat the sh!t out of those nuts before trying to apply torque. I also used my 3/8 impact to get them off without breaking the studs.

ETA: Yeah, ignore the pic on Amazon. It's a "typical image"...

[pjw73nh]

Wait a minute. Are you Shi***ng me? Studs? I thought they were the rusted remnants of bolts. You mean to tell me there are not bolt holes in the flange that comes from the CAT pipe? I was just gonna cut them off with my torch. That's why I bought the 5/16 SS bolts.

I gotta tell you, there is very little left of these studs/nuts/bolts whatever the hell they are. There is no way that i can get ANY PART of it off intact. I was going to just cut them off and punch them out leaving the holes. Then use the new bolts. But you are telling be there are no holes? The studs are welded (pressed) in to the CAT flange? I hope not... That changes the whole job.

Tell me it's not so... PLEASE !!!!!

Tnx

[kornjulio]

Whoa...relax....assuming they're studs, I'm sure they're just pressed in to the flange on the front pipe. I assume they can be punched/drilled out and replaced with bolts. But that's still no picnic trying to get that done working on a pipe that's basically swinging in the breeze....

I'm just going by what I dealt with on my S10...looks like you'll find out either way!

[pjw73nh]

Sorry, Didn't mean to have a sh*t fit. It's just that I've never seen pressed or welded studs in a pipe like that. And yes, if they are pressed, it's going to be like shooting flying ducks off a merry-go-round to try and get them out. I would've been VERY surprised and ticked to find this out without any warning.

tnx

[z28nirvana]

By now I'm sure you already put the muffler on but if not. I just replace mine on a 2001 112" w.b. The studs will pop right out if you cut them. The replacement muffler is about 4 inches shorter than the factory one so you will either have to buy the a new resonator or try to piece some pipe together after the muffler. I purchased the muffler, resonator, clamp, gasket and bolts from Advance Auto for $165.

My muffler was also split top side 12" long on seam.

[pjw73nh]

Hey Z28 Nirv....

As luck would have it, I am planning on doing the job this afternoon. So your timing is great. Interesting. I bought the same one (from Amazon) Walker 21325 and it measures exactly the same as the original. slightly smaller body diameter and maybe a little longer in the outlet. But certainly not shorter. Maybe after I do the job I'll think differently.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_915563508___

I want to preserve as much of the original exhaust as I can as it is stainless. I am planning on cutting the outlet, and slipping in a slightly smaller diameter "coupler" with two clamps. I hope it works. So you say the studs pop right out huh. OK, I'll give it a go. Did you use a torch, saw or twist them off?

Thanks...

[z28nirvana]

I actually cut one of the studs and torched the other one both methods work fine. Once cut I just twisted on the nut and it pops out.

Hope that helps you, Good Luck