Mitsubishi FTO GS [fujimi]

[axiom]

Hi everyone!

I'm probably the worst newbie =) I've been trying to build models for almost 1.5 years and still haven't succeeded at this..however learned some useful stuff (what's brake fluid and how it helps removing paint, to shake and warm up tamiya spray paint cans before using, I even built a spray booth and other useful stuff...) and gathered a useless collection of about 50 kits..but still no results...I haven't finished even one model yet start painting 'em and never finish...they all end up in brake fluid.

This is where my WIP starts..I'm looking forward for any advice, I really want to have at least one finished project My goal is to build a clean out of box model..

soo...I decided to put away all projects I was unintentionally destroying and start off a new page...once again - it has become clearly to me that I must be doing something wrong and need help ..I took off the shelf a box that first caught my eye - a Mitsubishi FTO GS by Fujimi. Seems to be a rare kit around here, but I think it suits a newbie like me just fine.




Day 1.

Removed all parts from the sprues, dry fitted the chassis, sanded down seams (or whatever they are called) with 1000, 1500 grit. Washed with toothpaste & then with warm water and soap. Left it to dry in a food container (I use those for storing active projects).

Day 2.

This is where the first problems began...
first I tried primering with an airbrush (however, I don't have a compressor, it's one of those that runs off air cans...Testors Aztec..that's what it's called I think), sprayed the Tamiya primer from the can into a bottle, let the gas out..and started primering. Turned out awfull. I don't have any pics, but the primer simply peeled off... I got upset...washed and sanded off the primer and put the FTO to dry.

Puttied the seats.

Day 3.

Tried primering directly from the can. Turned out better, but the FTO fell off the paint stand (I think I'm using the scoop from the washing powder )...quickly put it back & continued. Then left it to dry. After a few hours I checked it, besides some dust (my weak point) and some overspray at the rear bumper, everything was ok.

Day 4.

Sanded the seats and wing with 1000, 1500, 2000 grit.



Day 5.

Another problem...turns out that in some places on the FTO the primer has some sort of orange peel..well, not my first time, so I decide to sand it off with 1500 and 2000 grit and water. While sanding it off, I start to see scratches from the sand paper (probably left from sanding down the seams...but WTF? I sanded them to a smooth condition )...So, I sanded the FTO with mostly 2000 grit & water, washed with toothpaste and the soapy water, dried it with a cloth and put it to dry.














Can anyone tell me what am I doing wrong? I feel exhausted with all this failures again and again.

Other questions are:

1. why does the 2000 grit (Mirka Finland brand, got it at a car body repair shop) feels more rough than a 1500 tamiya grit

2. why didn't airbrushing the primer work out?

3. am I using the correct grit?

4. what am I doing wrong?

[Lownslow]

Other questions are:

1. why does the 2000 grit (Mirka Finland brand, got it at a car body repair shop) feels more rough than a 1500 tamiya grit

2. why didn't airbrushing the primer work out?

3. am I using the correct grit?

4. what am I doing wrong?

1. tamiya is good but the brand of sandpaper you got might not be. if you can find 3M in your area try getting their grey and red scuffing pads
grey is smooth/red is not. i use them to prep for primer and clear.
2. get a compressor and a better airbrush.
3. usually i rough a body for primer with 400 then with 600, at 1500 youre basically polishing plastic so paint wont stick.
4. i did my best hopefully others can help

[axiom]

Lownslow,

I'll try to get my hands on some 3M stuff, if not I'll order some tamiya grits.
Is it possible to paint the FTO nicely with a tamiya spray can?

usually i rough a body for primer with 400 then with 600, at 1500 youre basically polishing plastic so paint wont stick.

do you rough up all of the body? (I didn't...maybe that was my problem?)
are any scratches seen after primering?

I really appreciate you reply. Thanks! =)

[axiom]

Is this a good compressor & airbrush? (Tamiya 74520)

[Wolf95]

Originally Posted by axiom

Lownslow,

I'll try to get my hands on some 3M stuff, if not I'll order some tamiya grits.
Is it possible to paint the FTO nicely with a tamiya spray can?


do you rough up all of the body? (I didn't...maybe that was my problem?)
are any scratches seen after primering?

I really appreciate you reply. Thanks! =)

I have painted all my models with a rattle can and they all seem to come out ok. (slowly getting better)

and yes, you scuff up the ENTIRE body with 400-600. I use 400 and haven't had any problems yet. Just wait for the plastic to look like a matte finish. If it's glossy, the paint wont like to stick to it as well. inside headlights and deep curves (which the fto doesn't have) should be fine if they are kinda shiny. Just do the best you can to scuff every surface.

Dont worry, i'm a noob too. You learn by trial and error. Find out what works best for YOU. best of luck on your build. take your time and do it RIGHT. dont half-ass anything and dont try to get it all done in one night. let paint/glue dry COMPLETELY before handling. Also, dry fitting parts helps.

GOOD LUCK!

[kaho]

400 seems quite a bit too rough, tried it and i could wipe out some panel lines if I wanted. I only use them sparingly against the bad fujimi mold lines (and usually had to be followed by a knife to carve some body lines back) anything else on bare plastic I only use 1000 grit.

I have always thought sandpaper grits are standardized as well! Im just guessing but perhaps there is a separate grit system for wood sandpaper??

[Lownslow]

Originally Posted by axiom

Lownslow,

I'll try to get my hands on some 3M stuff, if not I'll order some tamiya grits.
Is it possible to paint the FTO nicely with a tamiya spray can?


do you rough up all of the body? (I didn't...maybe that was my problem?)
are any scratches seen after primering?

I really appreciate you reply. Thanks! =)

yes, yup every inch unless youre using 320 you shouldnt see any scratches.

[KevHw]

In my opinion I think you're making it slightly too complicated for yourself.

I think you need to first get your sandpapers sorted out. Try to have the same brand to minimise any ambiguity of their grading. If your 2000 grit is rougher than your 1500 grit then clearly they are not the same type and they should not be used based on their number.

For preparation of bodywork, I remove any mould lines with a suitable coarse sandpaper (MicroMesh (MM) 100MX) and then go over the entire body with MM 1500 to provide a key for the primer to stick to. Try to get paper designed for plastics/hobby use. Using toothpaste is not needed at this stage as it adds too many unknowns that may be responsible for ruining your paint (chemicals used, abrasives size etc). Like Wolf95 said, it should have a slight matte finish.

It doesn't make sense to me to decant the primer and then use it with an aerosol-powered airbrush. Again, simplify what you're doing. Spray the primer (specified for plastics) directly from the can and work by building up mist coats. If you want to use an airbrush, I recommend investing in a compressor as it will give you much more consistent pressure and you won't need to keep buying canned air.
I stick the body onto the top of a half-filled bottle of water with a looped piece of masking tape. It should stop it falling over. If you have dropped the body and there is contamination on the surface, stop and sand it out first before continuing. Cover it with a box or something to stop dust falling onto it when it's drying. Getting some orange peel with primer is fine because you need to sand it to a finer finish anyway, ready for the paint. Oh and keep your abrasive papers clean as clogged up ones won't help you.

[MidMazar]

Originally Posted by KevHw

In my opinion I think you're making it slightly too complicated for yourself.

I think you need to first get your sandpapers sorted out. Try to have the same brand to minimise any ambiguity of their grading. If your 2000 grit is rougher than your 1500 grit then clearly they are not the same type and they should not be used based on their number.

For preparation of bodywork, I remove any mould lines with a suitable coarse sandpaper (MicroMesh (MM) 100MX) and then go over the entire body with MM 1500 to provide a key for the primer to stick to. Try to get paper designed for plastics/hobby use. Using toothpaste is not needed at this stage as it adds too many unknowns that may be responsible for ruining your paint (chemicals used, abrasives size etc). Like Wolf95 said, it should have a slight matte finish.

It doesn't make sense to me to decant the primer and then use it with an aerosol-powered airbrush. Again, simplify what you're doing. Spray the primer (specified for plastics) directly from the can and work by building up mist coats. If you want to use an airbrush, I recommend investing in a compressor as it will give you much more consistent pressure and you won't need to keep buying canned air.
I stick the body onto the top of a half-filled bottle of water with a looped piece of masking tape. It should stop it falling over. If you have dropped the body and there is contamination on the surface, stop and sand it out first before continuing. Cover it with a box or something to stop dust falling onto it when it's drying. Getting some orange peel with primer is fine because you need to sand it to a finer finish anyway, ready for the paint. Oh and keep your abrasive papers clean as clogged up ones won't help you.

Tamiya sand paper is usually finer than others like 3m and even what ever you find at walmart or a autoparts store. Typically tamiya 600 or other brands 800 work before the primer. And a little sanding after the primer also helps the paint to adhere.

As far as the airbrush i would get one from micromark or squadron. Usually badgers or iwatas are reliable and are typically any where from $80-and up.

As far as a compressor you can get one with a tank (bigger) or a smaller one without a tank. Keep in mind the one without the tank will run constanty as your airbrushing. Harbor freight have ones for as cheap as $100.

[axiom]

WOW! Didn't expect to get so many replies =) Wolf95, kaho, KevHw, MidMazar thank you all!

I ordered tamiya grits from ebay, hopefully this will solve my sandpaper issue.

Regarding an airbrush - I will be getting one sometime soon, and most likely will be finishing the FTO with Tamiya TS spray cans.

No toothpaste for cars - got it

I think I have some 400-800 grit at home, will give it a try...

So where do I go from here? Should I leave the body in the current condition and spray some more primer on it? Or should I completely strip the FTO and start once more?

[axiom]

also bought some Tamiya Basic Putty and a Trumpeter side cutter(those special scissors for cutting off parts from sprues...amazing thing)

[MidMazar]

Dont strip it, just lay down more primer so you have a nicely primed body. And sand the primer with 800 or 1000 tamiya without burning through it. Wash with a toothbrush and soap and let dry 24hrs.


Then light coats of ts paint. Build it up, and if its a metallic paint don't forget to clearcoat it after or youll have no shine.

[axiom]

ouch...I read your reply too late...just sanded it down with 800...can I lay primer over it once it's dry?

[axiom]

Day 6.

Sanded down the putty on front seats and rear wing...




forgot to wash them, that's why they look dirty

Also, I have a question, - the seats have some kind of "indents" on them...does they have to be filled in or is it was intended that way?



(side support and head rest)....

Then I took an 800 grit and sanded down the body with water...









WALL-E's shocked...he called me an idiot and got depressed with what I've done.

Also I removed the molded washer jets, trunk key lock and antenna...I think it'll be best to put the washers and key lock after the body is ready (although I have no idea how to fabricate them). As for the antenna - I've seen some antennas @ hiroboy.com. Hopefully they'll fit in just fine.

[KevHw]

sanding down with 800 is fine, just re-spray with your primer so that it's all covered. Make sure you re-scribe your panel lines though to stop them filling. Make sure for you final layer you use a very fine sandpaper so that the primer is smooth, ready for the paint.
Having just seen your photos, it appears you may have already filled them. Re-scribe them and maybe use a finer grade of paper. You shouldn't get scratches....sand using light pressure, don't force it.