I've just done this to my Lexus IS300 and the Villager will be next once the weather breaks above 40 degrees.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsdPAadc9fY
It was very easy. disconnect the top hose FROM THE TRANSMISSION (this is the return line or "in" line - going back into trans) and connect the hose to a 3' or longer length of 3/8 hose. (the lower hose on the radiator is the exit line which connects to the top transmission port) Put the end of the hose in a bucket or jug as the video shows. You can leave the top transmission port open since the fluid will not drain out this line. Drain and refill the transmission oil pan with fresh fluid (I believe a drain and fill is 4qts on the Villager). But this time, over fill the trans with 1qt of fluid (5qts). Leave the funnel in the dip-stick tube because you'll need to refill periodically during the flush. Now what was an unknown to me was just how fast the transmission would pump out the fluid. Its roughly 7 to 10 seconds per quart. Slow enough for you to push out 2 qts, stop the engine and refill and begin again. I had an empty 5qt motor oil jug from the previous oil change, so I use it to monitor the oil output. When 2qts filled the jug I shut off the engine and refilled. The pan always had at least 3qt+ to pull from so it never went dry. Continue this until the ejected fluid is clean. The take count of how much fluid you removed and replace it. Reconnect the hoses. On the last quart, use the dipstick for the exact amount. That's it. It now has new fluid even in the torque converter. I can't believe how easy it was.
**Okay I forgot something. Since I used the return line to the transmission instead of the supply line as he mentions, I did not blow any air through the lines. Much easier this way. Plus it also purges the radiator cooler as well. So if you don't have an air compressor, you really don't need one.
02-09-2010, 09:09 PM
