94 Stalling

[jaimysessanna]

Hello everyone, tonight I was on my way back from the gym, my usual route going 40-45 then to 35. It started to be the usual ride when my 1994 LeSabre stalled. On a 7 mile ride home, it proceeded to stall 18 times. Usually it happened when I stopped or when I let off of the throttle. I have experienced this stalling before, when I had a fuel pump on it's way out. That said, I came home and quickly checked my fuel pressures. On prime it read 32 psi, on idle it read 34 psi. I consulted my Haynes manual and it said that the PSI should be 43 to 40 psi.

Could a plugged fuel filter cause this drop in PSI, or could it be the fact that I opted for the cheaper Airtex fuel pump which I knew in my gut would die in a year?

Any suggestions, I did replace spark plug wires today, but I doubt that is an issue. Car ran fine after wires, but just started doing this tonight.

I might also add, when I let off the gas, just before it stalled, it would sort of buck a bit. It has been bucking for a few months now.

Thanks everyone!

[HotZ28]

Originally Posted by jaimysessanna

On prime it read 32 psi, on idle it read 34 psi. I consulted my Haynes manual and it said that the PSI should be 43 to 40 psi.

Could a plugged fuel filter cause this drop in PSI, or could it be the fact that I opted for the cheaper Airtex fuel pump which I knew in my gut would die in a year?

Thanks everyone!

Yeah, the pressure is too low and that is probably the cause of your "bucking" & stalls. Did you change the pump screen & inline filter when you replaced the pump? If not, be sure to do so if you replace the pump again. BTW, you can get a Delphi (OEM) or ACDelco pump, for about 10-15 bucks more than Airtex brand. Considering the labor involved to replace the pump, it's best to pay the difference up-front and go for the OEM replacement!

[jaimysessanna]

Well today, I went out and tested a bunch of things on the car.

First, I tested the fuel pressure a few times at prime. On the first initial prime I had 39 PSI, then I started it and the pressure dropped to 38.

I tried it again, on prime I had 34 and running I had 32.

Then again, the prime was at 36, and running was 34.

I removed the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and I wasn't leaking any fuel.

I also checked other vacuum lines and check my wires and plugs. Everything looked good.

Traced the entire fuel system and that looked good. The only thing I'm worried about is that perhaps the fuel filter is clogged, but that wasn't changed all that long ago.

So I'm left to believe that it's a fuel pump. Going to travel to the GM dealer today and get a genuine one.

[HotZ28]

It may be too late, but you can order one online for 1/2 the dealer price!

[jaimysessanna]

HotZ28, where would you recommend ordering on from via the internet?

I checked with Advance Auto Parts; my Airtex pump is till under warranty, I can get one of those replaced, or take the 100+ dollars and apply it toward a new Bosch pump.

I should see if I can return the Airtex one for a full refund, and order one from where you recommend.

I called a dealer, Jim Ball Buick Pontiac and GMC in Orchard Park, NY; I asked the parts guy for a price for a fuel pump, he said to me.

"wow you still have one of those cars, our parts data base doesn't cover that year, you might want to check NAPA or AutoZone

I was thinking to myself, it isn't that old, and I mean they do run a while.

[jaimysessanna]

Also, HotZ28, could a few PSI below the required at prim (32-38 ish), could that really make the engine run that terribly and stall? I'm just so surprised.

[HotZ28]

IIRC, prime fuel pressure should be 40-44 psig on the 94 LeSabre. You may have some other problems, but until you have correct fuel pressure, many symptoms can appear to be related.

You have two different fuel pumps listed for the 94 LeSabre. One has ACDELCO Part # EP305 {Electric #25117021}pump,fuel (elec) 1st design; code CAC, for 2nd des see 88962472.

The other one listed has ACDELCO Part # EP339 {electric #06443570, 88962472}pump,fuel (elec) 2nd design; code CRC, for 1st des see 25117021; use w/strainer 88963067.

Which one you have, I don’t know; you have to look at the code on the sender! In addition, be sure to get the correct strainer for the pump you should use!

The CAC Sending Unit looks like this:


The CRC Sending Unit Looks like this:


The ACDelco CAC Pump looks like this:


And the ACDelco CRC looks like this:


Even Airtex has two different pumps listed. One has AIRTEX Part # E3305 {In Tank Electric Fuel Pump w/CAC on sender. It looks like this:


The other one is the CRC AIRTEX Part # E3290 {In Tank Electric Fuel Pump} w/CRC on sender and it looks like this:


It may be possible you installed the wrong Airtex pump to begin with. You need to be sure the pump that you order is the correct one. If you want the best price on ACDelco, enter the Delco part number on this site: Rightnowautoparts.com

BTW, they have a better price than RockAuito & great delivery (usually 2-days from time of order!)

[jaimysessanna]

Thank you so much HotZ28, you are just very very helpful, thank you so much.

The pump my LeSabre has is the CRC one, so I ordered it and hopefully this will be the solution to my problems.

I will post back with my results in a few days.

[jaimysessanna]

Well....... I don't know where to begin and how to say this. I actually feel kinda bad for what I did, but I'll give it a try; and yes I know it's only a car.

I changed the fuel pump, and would you know, it didn't change the situation whatsoever. I proceeded to change the plugs and wires, and it seemed as if the car ran better, but still no luck.

A while back, I had overheated my 3.8 and ever since that day, I have had to put a gallon of coolant in the coolant bottle every 10 days. White smoke just pours from the tailpipe.

With this said, and my problems not so clear, I hate to say it but I'm in the process of purchasing a 95 Civic from a good friend of mine, decent car, good price.

I feel bad, because out of all honesty, I love my Buick and the 3.8; but there comes a point where I can't just continue putting money into it.

I guess this thread is solved, sort of, it's sort of an attachment issue with your first car; I will miss it.

[jaimysessanna]

Now this Buick has been passed on to my mother, and it still is doing the same things it has before and I'm back on here to troubleshoot some more. (She just got rid of her 2000 Malibu with 221K on the clock, and might I add with a leaking intake gasket the whole time.) The Buick has a new fuel pump pushing the correct fuel pressure, bran new autolite plugs and wires, new sending unit, and new intake plenium and intake gaskets. Anyways, it starts up great, and will run great and idle. Then say you take it for a drive. It will stall when you either come to a stop, or when you are giving it a light amount of throttle. Usually before it stalls it will hesitate and jerk.

What could this be? My parents used to have a 91 LeSabre and my father was telling me about how the throttle plate or something used to get carboned up and he would have to clean it, he was also talking something about the IAC valve.

Any ideas anyone?

[spinne1]

My 92 had a similar issue and it was the ignition module. That is one possibility.

[BuickBob]

Very similar problem with 94 LeSabre. When light turns green, let foot off brake, car begins to roll, step on gas pedal too much, engine starts to stall, oil and temp lights come on, engine dies if I don't let up on petal right away. If it dies completely, have to coast to side of road, put it in park, restart and drive again, but very gingerly on gas pedal. Removed EGR, pintle moves up and down freely and rotates freely, even tried driving a mile or two with EGR wire harness disconnected same symptom. Have replaced plugs, plug cables, ignition module, same symptom. Dealer said bad EGR and bad fuel pump, but from previous posts, must be something else. Problem began in Dec 09 when we had heavy rains here in Orange County, Calif. About 6 years ago I heard spark plug coil module 3/6 making noise and found crack in outer shell I think. Put epoxy on cracked area, seemed ok after that. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks for any suggestions.

[BuickBob]

Problem fixed! Bought a new EGR valve (129 plus tax) at Auto Zone. Two instructions came with the new EGR valve. The second instruction fixed my problem.

1. ...check the EGR passage and clear any carbon blockage...

2. After replacing the EGR valve the computer (engine controller module?) must relearn the new EGR pintle position. Disconect the battery terminals for 30 minues or use a scan tool and select the "Clear Codes" option.

I read the instructions before replacing the EGR valve. I disconnected the positive battery cable connector before removing the old valve. By the time I'd replaced the old valve with the new one, (the actual remove and install takes less than 5 minutes using 1/2 inch socket) more than an hour had passed as I had to answer a phone call and get a cup of coffee. I replaced the positive battery cable on the battery and started the engine. A test drive proved I had no more stumbling from a start, I can press the gas pedal hard and fast with no more hesitation or stalling. Before you spend money on a new EGR valve, try resetting the computer first. When I have time I am going to re-install the old valve, reset the computer and see if the old EGR was really bad or if the computer somehow lost the position of the pintle.