Fuel line nut or hex or star

[82Stang]

1993 Chevy S10 Blazer 4.3L Vortec auto 4 wheel drive

I have been racking my brain trying to get the right size hex or allen to get the nut of the fuel line nut kit. Everything I use isn't working. What is the right size to use for the hidden bolt behind the rear fuel lines that holds both in order to change the fuel line nut kit?

I spent 3 hours messing with it and no progress. Getting frustrated now. My inner line is leaking. Blazer runs very bad. Uses gas like no tomorrow and I need to fix this. I have read that others used regular fuel injection hose instead of buying the factory nut kit. Will this work also. Is it safe? I use this truck for plowing, and I am willing to try anything. Can I use super glue to fix the break or does it dissolve with gas? Any ideas out there are welcome. Gimme some ideas. I don't need to buy dealer parts, just want to fix the excessive gas runout in the plenim.

Thanks.

[Leeann94astro]

Best to use the premade pieces. Advance Auto has parts by BWD and Dorman. The BWD comes with the bracket and new bolt. NAPA carries Balkamp without the bracket and bolt, Echlin with (but Advance is cheaper) the bracket and bolt.

Which, by the way, is Torx, not allen or hex. I can't remember which Torx at the moment, though.

[shanes76]

I am having the same problem, dont know what takes it off and both of my lines are leaking right where they come thru the intake, there isnt any holes rubbed in them, just where it connect to the 2 pieces where your fuel lines screw into - and this is just a thought, what if you used a really small hose clamp on the there? I called Autozone and they are 56.00 for the lines

[MT-2500]

The bolt may be torque drive.
Check your local parts place for some.

[82Stang]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

The bolt may be torque drive.
Check your local parts place for some.

I misstated up above. I was using a T27 torx or maybe a T25. It just didn't feel like it was coming out. It seemed to fit, but no progress. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by torque drive.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by 82Stang

I misstated up above. I was using a T27 torx or maybe a T25. It just didn't feel like it was coming out. It seemed to fit, but no progress. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by torque drive.

torx = torque drive.

Is the bolt just tight or the socket slipping in the bolt.
Does the bolt also have a metric socket head on it?

[82Stang]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

torx = torque drive.

Is the bolt just tight or the socket slipping in the bolt.
Does the bolt also have a metric socket head on it?

Thought you meant something else by torque drive. I don't think it is slipping or that the bolt is tight. It feels like it just keeps turning with no progress. It is such a tight area though. The bolt head is round.

[MT-2500]

It may have striped threads.

See if you can get a pair of pliers on it and pull or screw driver under edge and push up a little on it and then see if it will screw on out.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[82Stang]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

It may have striped threads.

See if you can get a pair of pliers on it and pull or screw driver under edge and push up a little on it and then see if it will screw on out.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Yes, the screwdriver under head is a good idea. I'll try that tonight.

Does the bolt/bracket have to go back on? In other words, will it leak if not put back on? Also, about patching the plastic fuel hose. I wondered if any adhesive would work, but I'm guessing most anything of that type is dissolved by the gas. For a temporary quick fix, I may slice some fuel line hose or something like that to get it covered on the line to stop the bleeding so I can just use it to plow the driveway and will redo the whole fuel line nut kit/spider, everything this Summer in warmer weather. Right now, I am going through so much gas and it's a struggle running it. Too much of this and the bearings are going to disappear. I don't want that. I've dropped the oil and filter twice in the last month or so.

[MT-2500]

Best to have the bolt in to hold everything in place.
If striped out heli coil it or tap to bigger size.
Replace and Fix the lines right and be done with it.
Anything else is only a band aid.

[82Stang]

I had to use a bandaid because no money for the new parts at the moment. So a cover/hose over the pinhole and clamped seems to work for now to get me through a little while.

I started it and noticed it was running better, not 100%, but better than before. It was severely sluggish/choked before. Now it revs up and I can actually drive up and down the driveway. I ran it for about 15 minutes and gave the driveway a quick swipe with the plow.

After that, it was warmed up and I was revving it a little. It was dark out, so I noticed light underneath for a sec. I got out, looked under and saw the muffler and pipe up to the front was cherry red. I mean cherry red. I've seen exhausts get hot, but never that hot. Startled, i shut it off and let it cool down.

Either there is unburned gas in the exhaust that is burning out now. Or something else.

[82Stang]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

Anything else is only a band aid.

You're right. I'm just wasting my time. I'll be getting the lines Fri and go from there. Thanks for the input.

[Leeann94astro]

Originally Posted by 82Stang

After that, it was warmed up and I was revving it a little. It was dark out, so I noticed light underneath for a sec. I got out, looked under and saw the muffler and pipe up to the front was cherry red. I mean cherry red. I've seen exhausts get hot, but never that hot.

Sounds like the cat was damaged by the raw fuel dumping through it (not unusual). I foresee a new cat in your future...

[82Stang]

Originally Posted by Leeann94astro

Sounds like the cat was damaged by the raw fuel dumping through it (not unusual). I foresee a new cat in your future...

Raw fuel, yes. Foresee a new cat, No. Cat is fine. It would be gutted if needed first. This is a plow truck, nothing special. And being a 93, it doesn't need to be hooked up for inspection.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by 82Stang

I had to use a bandaid because no money for the new parts at the moment. So a cover/hose over the pinhole and clamped seems to work for now to get me through a little while.

I started it and noticed it was running better, not 100%, but better than before. It was severely sluggish/choked before. Now it revs up and I can actually drive up and down the driveway. I ran it for about 15 minutes and gave the driveway a quick swipe with the plow.

After that, it was warmed up and I was revving it a little. It was dark out, so I noticed light underneath for a sec. I got out, looked under and saw the muffler and pipe up to the front was cherry red. I mean cherry red. I've seen exhausts get hot, but never that hot. Startled, i shut it off and let it cool down.

Either there is unburned gas in the exhaust that is burning out now. Or something else.

On cats getting red after you get fuel leak/running rich fixed if still doing it check the engine timing.

If timing is off it can cause red cats/exhaust.

Good luck