New clutch, cant remove tranny

cantgo2fast · #1 01-15-2010, 11:20 PM

Hey guys I got a new clutch for my GSX and am having trouble. So far ive got both axles out, all the mounts disconnected and both the engine and transmission are supported on jacks. Originally i tried to disconnect the transmission from the bellhousing, got it most of the way off but could not get it the rest of the way for the life of me. The book says to disconnect the bellhousing to engine bolts? Should I be takign the bellhousing and transmission out together? any help from here would be very useful.

david-b · #2 01-16-2010, 09:34 AM

You're trying to drop the whole thing? Just do it altogether. There's only 4 bolts connecting the trans to the motor (plus small stuff like the starter) but that's pretty easy. Once the axles are out and those bolts are out, it should be pretty easy to seperate. If not, find a place that has a little gap between the 2 and take a crowbar and wedge it out a little.

The input shaft goes a couple inches into the clutch, and since it has splines, it could be on there pretty good, especially if the trans/motor have never been disconnected.

ned032002 · #3 01-16-2010, 11:58 AM

I've never heard of someone removing the tranny without the bellhousing intact attched.

SilvrEclipse · #4 01-16-2010, 12:30 PM

Yea you got to pull the bellhousing to. Whenever I change my clutch (which has been ab 3 times this year) I just pull the motor out. I find it easier to pull the motor out than the tranny. The tranny you have to drop from the bottom and I dont have a lift which makes it that much harder. But take out the bellhousing bolts and you should be able to work it out of there.

cantgo2fast · #5 01-16-2010, 03:28 PM

Ya I got it out this morning. One small detail the book forgets to mention is that you have to remove the transfer case, not really an important detail or anything. So the trans mission is out but I might have a bigger problem. I dont know if these pictures are going to post properly but ill post a link directly to the facebook album. The block is cracked in that corner. It wasnt a problem while ive been driving it, the bellhousing was filled with gunk. Could I JB weld this or is my engine trash?

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pi...d=433487885436

david-b · #6 01-16-2010, 05:58 PM

Hmmm that's not good. Not sure what can be done with that. I almost bought a block with a broken part like that and I was told it could be welded, but not sure how well it would hold up.

SilvrEclipse · #7 01-16-2010, 09:50 PM

That block is trash. Like you said tho the car drove fine so if you really cant afford another one right now I would put it back in and just baby the car around. At least it is driveable and wouldn't just be sitting there. It could probably be welded but it wouldn't be strong at all.

cantgo2fast · #8 01-18-2010, 12:29 AM

Well I might just weld it up and continue my plan of upgrading the engine until something truly catastrophic happens and then do the motor. I mean if its lasted this long, including a day at the drag strip this summer it might be fine forever who knows. The only way I can think to pay for this now is either some rich stranger is feeling very generous; or I take out a student loan. but if i do that im just going to take out enough and finish the thing and have the car i always dreamed of.

But on another note here are the old parts coming out. it looks like some one took a torch to my pressure plate, definitely time for new one. And the new parts going in

and the coilovers those wrenches are for are in too.

vanilla gorilla · #9 01-18-2010, 01:15 AM

Looks like that clutch has been slipping pretty good.

cantgo2fast · #10 02-05-2010, 03:10 PM

An update: I found A decent solution short of a new block. Its and advanced two part poly... Fancy glue. But you can only buy it by the kilogram and its $200 + Shipping for the stuff. As I looked into it Welding is actually a horrible option because in order for cast iron to be welded properly the whole area has to be heated to 900-1000 degress. Welding can actually change the molecular structure of the iron and will be more likely to crack in the future.

Since I dont have 200 dollars either its getting ghetto rigged with JB weld. Ill try to get pics tonight of the finished product. I dont have a camera so I could show you guys the prep work and such. But It survived a track day this summer with it cracked off so something has to be an improvement right?

Then I will hopefully have pics of everything coming together this weekend and a video of it back on the road by next week. Fingers crossed

kjewer1 · #11 02-07-2010, 12:01 AM

We had a block crack in the same place. Took it to a welding shop that is experienced in welding cast iron, and they fixed it up nice. It's still in service 6 years later. Nothing besides proper welding will hold. BTW, the block probably cracked initially because some of the trans to motor bolts backed out at some point in the past. The clutch puts enough force on the trans-block to crack those ears right off.

cantgo2fast · #12 02-07-2010, 10:34 PM

Haha I was just on your site reading up on boost creep. And checked how fast the RWD was nice to see you back. Ya Ill keep an eye on it and if it cracks off again thats what im going to do.

This thing is going on 15 years now so who knows how long its been like that.

cantgo2fast · #13 02-10-2010, 06:10 PM

SO everything is put back together but there seems to be a slight ticking noise when the clutch pedal is up. It goes away when the pedal is depressed. Is this the way its supposed to be? I know exedy dual clutches sound like a can of bolts so is this what ACT is supposed to sound likie or is something else wrong. It is also having trouble going into gear so Im thinking more bleeding is in order?

Brief VIDEO:
http://s575.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=DSCN0524.flv

Edit: noise form front is gone, theres a new one in the rear

The only gear it doesnt want to go into, or stay in is First. Maybe the shift cables??

cantgo2fast · #14 02-10-2010, 08:28 PM

sorry for the triple post.

Noise gone form the front, new one in rear, really bad when i brake. It doesnt like going into or staying in first, all the others seem ok. Play in the shifter cables??

cantgo2fast · #15 02-12-2010, 04:18 PM

So everything got finalized yesterday. Noise from the rear was becasue the rubber on the bushing in the wheel hub has separated from the metal center and the hub was banging against the side of the A-arm. Calling shops monday to see how much just a new bushing would be becasue I dont want to buy a whole urethane set right now.

Wouldnt go into first because the coolant hose was in the way, zip tied out of the way

Did some math and ive taken 10 lbs out of the flywheel (rotating mass) and 3 lbs out of each corner with the coilovers. so 10 lb decrease in rotating mass and 12 lb decrease in unsprung weight, It should feel a bit more responsive

Hopefully have some videos soon. Trying to get the FSAE team to get our fast cars and go for a run through one of the canyons around once it warms up a bit.

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