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Old 01-12-2010, 10:25 PM   #1
Cobrafang
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Need some advice on engine BLOCK

My original thoughts was to use a stock 5.0 block with studs and a main gurdle to add strength. But I am not sure.

Here is the kit.

I have AR heads that are the prototypes for what became the FRP J302 aluminum heads. I have a decent cam but not radical, and a dual plane intake that was the predecessor to the RPM. The heads and the intake are port matched with some nice massaging. The rotating assembly is a 327 stroker all forged steel, with about 10:1 compression.

My question is in the GTRA do you think the stock 5.0 block will hold up. I am only going to turn about 6k RPMs because the peak HP (should be over 350) will happen between 5500 and 5800.

Kel and Brian I am interested in your thoughts and anyone else who has build and gone through some motors.

Thanks in advanced.

v/r
Tom
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:38 AM   #2
panozracing
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Re: Need some advice on engine BLOCK

Call Mike @ Total Engine Concepts 561.842.2813

I dont know anything about 5.0L
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Old 01-13-2010, 10:19 PM   #3
Blue Streak 21
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Re: Need some advice on engine BLOCK

I built a 347 stroker on a 5.0 block, and ran it last year in my GTRA. I built it for reliability instead of peak HP. I'm hoping to get 3 to 5 seasons from the motor. Reliability was enhanced by zero balancing the internals. Everything I read said this was the way to go with the 347. My motor has Canfield aluminum heads, a cam with .55" lift at the valve, and a Typhoon intake with a 75 mm TB. I didn't use studs or a girddle. I run the engine up to 6000 rpms. From what I was able to research, the stock motors are fine for moderate power production (400 hp) if you don't want to spin it into the stratosphere. I think I remember hearing that if you want to make a bunch of HP by spinning the motor into the 7000 + rpm range, you need a racing (Dart) block.

So far my engine has been reliable. Knock on wood.
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Old 01-13-2010, 11:16 PM   #4
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Re: Need some advice on engine BLOCK

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cobrafang View Post
My original thoughts was to use a stock 5.0 block with studs and a main gurdle to add strength. But I am not sure.

Here is the kit.

I have AR heads that are the prototypes for what became the FRP J302 aluminum heads. I have a decent cam but not radical, and a dual plane intake that was the predecessor to the RPM. The heads and the intake are port matched with some nice massaging. The rotating assembly is a 327 stroker all forged steel, with about 10:1 compression.

My question is in the GTRA do you think the stock 5.0 block will hold up. I am only going to turn about 6k RPMs because the peak HP (should be over 350) will happen between 5500 and 5800.

Kel and Brian I am interested in your thoughts and anyone else who has build and gone through some motors.

Thanks in advanced.

v/r
Tom
Tom, there are a lot of varying opinions on what Hp the 5.0 block can take. I can only relate my recent experiences as I do not have a long history with Ford engines.

As you are aware I upgraded my 5.0 to around 400hp and it has since run 8.0 hours on the track with no issues. I have recently stripped the engine down as I am converting across to a 347. The 5.0 bottom end is in good shape and showing no signs of stress from the Hp level I have been running at. The 8.0 hours has been run with a rev limit of 5800.

The engine has also survived being over revved on numerous occasions to approx 8000 rpm as a result of drivers hitting 3rd instead of 5th on the up change from 4th. This does not do wonders for valves or valve guides in a hydraulic roller engine even if you have .100 valve to piston clearance........this is another subject altogether though!!

I opted to use a main girdle as cheap insurance. Some say these do nothing but in our application if they add 10% strength to the bottom end then it is worth the money in my opinion. Girdles normally require the fitment of main studs and mine came with these which also help. I am also using head studs in the 347.

I think your combo will work well Tom and as long as the bottom end has been screwed together well and you are conservative with revs you should get reasonable life out of the engine. There are always compromises to be made when using stock parts and in this case keeping rpm sane is the key.

Respectable times can still be done without revving the guts out of an engine and driving on torque instead. Just look at the likes of the GM factory endurance Corvettes, they have run stroker engines with sub 6000rpm rev limits for years and won a ton of trophys.

I assume that the block was crack tested prior to the engine being assembled Tom?

Kel.
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