Another ignition switch problem?

[Rustybus]

Well, the Intrigue electrical gremlins have finally found me. '99 with a 3.5. Within the last 2 weeks, the cruise control, then the climate control do not work. Then, (am I am not making this up) the headlights will not work when the rear defrost is on. It starts and runs fine. I searched the forums and am well aware of the mysteries a bad ignition switch can cause. Has anyone experienced these issues?

[brwneyes426]

Yes, I have. My auto headlights and climate control will not work. I've replaced the ignition switch twice. It works fine for a day or two, then intermittant for about a week and then completely dead. I have searched and searched every forum I could find and everyone says it's the ignition switch. Well I'm not about to replace the switch once a week. There's got to be something else causing this problem. So if anyone has any suggestions, I'm totally open to hearing them!

[99intriguePA]

Originally Posted by brwneyes426

Yes, I have. My auto headlights and climate control will not work. I've replaced the ignition switch twice. It works fine for a day or two, then intermittant for about a week and then completely dead. I have searched and searched every forum I could find and everyone says it's the ignition switch. Well I'm not about to replace the switch once a week. There's got to be something else causing this problem. So if anyone has any suggestions, I'm totally open to hearing them!

Try adding some extra ground wires as was discussed earlier on this forum. I was having elec. trouble with all the guages bouncing around, car shutting off, etc. I installed a few homemade grounds and never had another elec. problem since - and that was at least 3 years and many miles ago. the only elec. problem it didn't fix was the dimming headlights, but that is an alternator problem. Can't hurt to try - possibly a cheap fix.

[Rolm]

This is more of a preventive meaure. I always spray wd40 in the ignition switch at least once a year. This will clean and lube the switch and make sure you wipe the key with a cloth or tissue you will not believe all the crud that is attached to the key. I have been doing this on all my cars and I have never had a problem. Oh yes you should also be doing this on your door trunk lock.

As a side note a friend was having all kinds of problems with his 2000 BMW Auto trans. not going in gear etc etc. I sprayed all of the contacts at the base of his Auto shifter and that cure all the problems. It was a cheap fix vs. a new transmission all the shops were recommending.

[sparcx]

Originally Posted by Rolm

This is more of a preventive meaure. I always spray wd40 in the ignition switch at least once a year. This will clean and lube the switch and make sure you wipe the key with a cloth or tissue you will not believe all the crud that is attached to the key. I have been doing this on all my cars and I have never had a problem. Oh yes you should also be doing this on your door trunk lock.

wouldn't spraying wd-40 in the ignition be a bad thing? petroleum product plus electronics just doesn't seem like a good combination.

just curious since i'm interested in keeping my ignition in good shape and would try this if it's definitely safe.

Any thoughts on silicone spray instead?

[dtownfb]

As Rolm suggested, the WD-40 should not cause a problem. I've done it in the past as well without issue.

here's a link to the WD-40 FAQ: http://www.wd40.com/faqs/

As you will read, it is an effective cleaner.

[Rustybus]

Originally Posted by 99intriguePA

Try adding some extra ground wires as was discussed earlier on this forum.

Add grounds from where to where?

Also, if I go ahead and replace the ignition switch, do I replace just the cylinder w/ key or the housing or both?

[brwneyes426]

Try adding some extra ground wires as was discussed earlier on this forum. I was having elec. trouble with all the guages bouncing around, car shutting off, etc. I installed a few homemade grounds and never had another elec. problem since - and that was at least 3 years and many miles ago. the only elec. problem it didn't fix was the dimming headlights, but that is an alternator problem. Can't hurt to try - possibly a cheap fix.

Like Rustybus asked, grounds from where to where? I'm also having an issue with my ignition lock cylinder. The key is so worn down I can pull it out of the ignition with the car running. Would this have anything to do with the ignition switch replacements not working for long?

[99intriguePA]

From the right side strut tower to the neg. terminal and to engine block.

From the left strut tower to the upper engine mount.

From upper engine mount to MAF sensor.

All contact areas must be cleaned, sanded or wire brushed.

I used liquid elec. tape to seal connections.

[brwneyes426]

Originally Posted by 99intriguePA

From the right side strut tower to the neg. terminal and to engine block.

From the left strut tower to the upper engine mount.

From upper engine mount to MAF sensor.

All contact areas must be cleaned, sanded or wire brushed.

I used liquid elec. tape to seal connections.

Thanks for the info and pictures. Any thoughts on the ignition lock cylinder problem and whether or not it might be related?

[99intriguePA]

I too would have thought that the problem was in the ignition switch but since you replaced 2 of them I figured the ground wire approach might be worth a try, as it seemed to work for me. I suppose its possible that you got bad switches but that seems like a long shot. Were they aftermarket or OEM switches?

As far as my Intrigue with 185,000 miles on it is concerned, I've never had an ignition switch problem (knock on wood). A couple times a year I spray WD-40 in there along with all the locks.

Did you check the ignition switch plug for any bad connections/loose wires? I ask this because you say the switch replacement works for a while and then goes bad again. Can you access the area behind the switch and wiggle the wires around to see if that changes the symptoms any?

[brwneyes426]

Originally Posted by 99intriguePA

I too would have thought that the problem was in the ignition switch but since you replaced 2 of them I figured the ground wire approach might be worth a try, as it seemed to work for me. I suppose its possible that you got bad switches but that seems like a long shot. Were they aftermarket or OEM switches?

As far as my Intrigue with 185,000 miles on it is concerned, I've never had an ignition switch problem (knock on wood). A couple times a year I spray WD-40 in there along with all the locks.

Did you check the ignition switch plug for any bad connections/loose wires? I ask this because you say the switch replacement works for a while and then goes bad again. Can you access the area behind the switch and wiggle the wires around to see if that changes the symptoms any?

One was a cheap replacement I got online which actually worked for about a week. The second one was an ACDelco, certified OEM replacement and that one worked for a day, go figure. We're going to have to take everything apart to replace some burned out bulbs in the dash, so we'll take a look at the connections on the ignition switch and also the climate control console itself. Thanks again for the advice, sure hope it works!

[Rustybus]

Definitely going to try the ground wires.

But, if that doesn't work and I replace the ignition switch, do I replace:

1) the body of the switch? (that everything plugs into)
2) the cylinder w/key?
3) or both?

[brwneyes426]

Originally Posted by 99intriguePA

From the right side strut tower to the neg. terminal and to engine block.

From the left strut tower to the upper engine mount.

From upper engine mount to MAF sensor.

All contact areas must be cleaned, sanded or wire brushed.

I used liquid elec. tape to seal connections.

Ok, installed the ground straps today and the climate control and cruise control still don't work. Any other suggestions?

[panzer dragoon]

follow your rear defrost wiring for maybe a short.