A "that's _not_ gone well" moment...

[mattbacon]

So I've got the chassis and body shell of my Fujimi F430 Scuderia pretty much finished. The paintwork on the body's not quite as good as I'd like, but it's only my third car kit and I'm reasonably happy with it. I _am_ pleased with the interior, and I'm ready to finish up and move on to the next one with all the lessons I've learned. I mask up all the clear parts (having polished out the rear screen demister) with the printed masks provided, and spray them with Zero Paints "jet black". To my horror, when I remove the masking, the paint solvent has penetrated the Fujimi masks, and etched the window glass, beyond polishing out. So now I'm waiting on HLJ to see if they can order me some replacement clear sprues...

So, DON'T use Zero paints and Fujimi pre-printed masks. Next time, I'll be brush painting good old-fashioned Humbrol Satin Black around the windows, and quite possibly backing up the printed masks with Tamiya tape as well...

best regards,
M.

[stevenoble]

Originally Posted by mattbacon

So, DON'T use Zero paints and Fujimi pre-printed masks. Next time, I'll be brush painting good old-fashioned Humbrol Satin Black around the windows, and quite possibly backing up the printed masks with Tamiya tape as well...

best regards,
M.

It's not the masks it's the paint. Zero is auto acrylic, a totally different beast to hobby acrylic. The solvents in Zero are way too strong to apply on window plastic. They MUST be applied over primer or they will attack the plastic. I always use Vallejo Model Air for windows or Tamiya X18 acrylic, they work perfectly on window plastic.

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by stevenoble

I always use Vallejo Model Air for windows

- best option available IMHO

[matador88]

tamiya x-18 semigloss black is great also

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Don't even need paint; a black chisel-tip Sharpie works great. If the engraving is deep enough on the separation lines, you don't really need the masks. Just go over the area a couple times, let the marker take a "set" on the edge of the glass, and you can get great results...nice clean edges, opaque black mask...no airbrushing or brush painting. And it's easy to remove/redo the areas if you are a bit messy on the first try.

[Adam Baker]

Just have to be careful if you apply a clear coat over Sharpie marker, as it can cause it to run.

[stevenoble]

Originally Posted by Adam Baker

Just have to be careful if you apply a clear coat over Sharpie marker, as it can cause it to run.

He's painting the black on the inside of the window glass, not the external frames on the body shell, so I doubt he will be clearing over it. But yes, you are right, clearing over marker pen isn't such a good idea as it will run...