Tamiya bottle paint issues

[NU_BLUE]

Done alittle searching and didn't find anything pertaining to this.

Ok, so I'm working on the Tamiya Calsonic Impul GT-R (R35) #24312.
This: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=24312

This is not really specific to this model but rather to painting in general. Anyways, I sprayed the model TS-44 Brilliant Blue, let it dry ~24 hrs. I then painted the gloss black parts with X-1 . I also painted some of the emblems with clear red X-27. Finally, I put all the decals on. I let them all dry for several days.

So, last night I sprayed the whole body with a Testors Model Master gloss clear laquer #1961.

What I noticed is that the areas where I used the Tamiya bottle paints, the paint actually thinned and ran esp. the clear red.

Did the bottle paints not mix with the MM clear laquer? Anyone have this same problem?

[ZoomZoomMX-5]

Tamiya bottle paint is an aqueous acrylic. It is not meant to be overcoated with clear lacquer.

Big mistake, whether using Testors or Tamiya spray clear lacquer.

You are best not to mix different kinds of paint, and to do your detail painting after you have clearcoated. You probably would have had zero problems w/the Testors clear lacquer over the Tamiya spray, and applying the bottle paint afterwards.

Live and learn...sometimes the hard way.

[NU_BLUE]

Thanks. Yeah, this is the first time I've used Tamiya bottle paints. The TS-44 was fine. Now I know....

[AAlmeida]

Enamel over Enamel = OK
Enamel over Acrylic = Note recommended
Enamel over Lacquer = OK

Acrylic over Enamel = OK
Acrylic over Lacquer - OK
Acrylic over Acrylic = OK

Lacquer over Acrylic = NOT
Lacquer over Enamel = NOT
Lacquer over Lacquer = OK

[Didymus]

Lacquer shouldn't be sprayed on any other kind of paint, except:

• Lacquer
• Automotive urethane
• Primer (like Tamiya) that's intended for use with lacquer

The reverse is not a problem. That is, you can spray any common paint on top of lacquer.

Regarding urethanes, I've consistently gotten good results spraying Tamiya TS-13 and U-POL synthetic lacquers over Dupont, PPG, Omni and other automotive urethanes.

Ddms

[NU_BLUE]

Ok, so what paint do ya'll use as a clear coat? I've only ever seen clear paints as lacquers?

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by NU_BLUE

Ok, so what paint do ya'll use as a clear coat? I've only ever seen clear paints as lacquers?

Asking me?

If you're clear coating waterborne acrylics, use a waterborne acrylic. Tamiya X-22 is good. It will never give you the high gloss and realistic look of lacquer or properly applied and finished enamel (See Donn Yost about the latter.) If you're going to thin X-22, use real Tamiya Thinner for Acrylics. You can also use alcohol, water, lacquer thinner or probably spit, but in my experience the "real stuff" gives the best results.

I use only synthetic lacquer and automotive urethane for base (color) coat.

For clearcoating either one, I swear by U-POL Power Can clear coat from Ditchek & Sons, a body-shop supply house in Brooklyn, NY. It's a synthetic lacquer similar to Tamiya TS-13, but a lot cheaper and maybe even a little easier on decals. It comes in big 500 ml cans for about $5 a can. It has a good nozzle like Tamiya, produces an amazing shine, and it's not even a 2k urethane.

U-POL does makes a UV-proof 2-part urethane spray can that's a lot more expensive. I think it's a urethane rather than a synthetic lacquer. It's probably more durable, and better for painting a real car, but since I don't store my models in my driveway or out on the street, it's not worth the extra expense.

I have to admit: I'm biased in favor of lacquer and automotive urethanes, and think the world would be a happier place if everybody used them.