99 Grand Am Intake Manifold........

[bandit7862]

Anyone changed out the intake manifold in a 99 Grand Am 3.4 liter V-6? I am having coolant losses and I now know it is going into the engine. I can see it leaking out the intake manifold gasket so I am assuming it is getting into the engine. It is being very sluggish lately and wanting to spit and sputter. I am losing about 1/2 gallon of coolant a week when driving it everyday. Any thoughts would be very helpful on exactly how to do this. Ive got the haynes book but looking for some good tips or tricks.

[skeeter123]

Check out the post by BNaylor on the Alero forum at:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=688030

[bandit7862]

Skeeter123, that was some very helpful information and I thank you greatly. The Haynes manual shows a good bit, but I am sure I will need all the extra tips I can get. This will be a weekend job that I may extend to 2 weekends just to take my time and do it right the first time. Again, Thanks Alot!

[CheezyRider]

Just finishing up the same job on my wife's '96, 3100.
I broke one thing, the plastic clip end on the throttle cable. Not sure about the '99 but my cable is obsolete, the dealer doesn't carry it and can't even order it, so be careful...
I used the redesigned intake gasket set by FelPro from my local NAPA ($95). No plastic in this gasket. Along with the new torque specs, this should prevent me from doing the job again (this is my second time), or so they say...
If you reuse your original intake bolts (I did), make sure to clean 'em and use blue LockTite. I also chased the threads in the block with a tap (hadda buy a metric set).
Although I didn't have to, I removed the fuel rails this time along with removing each injector from the rails. Mine has 128,000 miles so I figured it's proly due for new o-rings on each end of the injectors ($1.70 each). Glad I did, they were pretty cruddy.
One tool I found to be really handy is a "push rod remover" by Lisle (part #48500). Got it for less than $20 including shipping on the net. Couldn't find it in stock anywhere locally but received it two days after ordering it. This tool lets you remove the pushrods without loosening/ removing the rocker arms. Saves time and the mess you make when having to adjust all the rockers with no valve covers and the engine running. It's supposed to work on 2.8, 3.1, and 3.4 engines and supposedly you can do the job without removing the rear valve cover if you have it.
On mine, the front (passenger side) motor mount had to be removed to remove the serp belt, to remove the PS pump and alternator. To raise/ hold the engine I used an engine support I bought the first time at NAPA for about $50. It sits on the inner fender "jam", spans the engine compartment and has a large J bolt that lifts/ supports the engine from an existing lifting lug. The neat thing about this setup is if you have the lug towards the firewall side of the engine, it will slightly rotate the engine forward, allowing better access to the rear plugs, which proly need changed now, and the coils and other stuff mounted over the rear valve cover.
I also took the intake and plenum to the local speed shop and had 'em checked for warpage. Luckily mine were good.
Since you're down to it, check to see that your serpentine idler pulley turns smoothly and doesn't have excessive play.
Just refilled my oil and coolant (water only). Gonna test drive tomorrow and drain/ change oil and coolant if everything goes well. Wish me luck.
Take your time and good luck...

[3100]

Originally Posted by CheezyRider

Just finishing up the same job on my wife's '96, 3100.
I broke one thing, the plastic clip end on the throttle cable. Not sure about the '99 but my cable is obsolete, the dealer doesn't carry it and can't even order it, so be careful...
I used the redesigned intake gasket set by FelPro from my local NAPA ($95). No plastic in this gasket. Along with the new torque specs, this should prevent me from doing the job again (this is my second time), or so they say...
If you reuse your original intake bolts (I did), make sure to clean 'em and use blue LockTite. I also chased the threads in the block with a tap (hadda buy a metric set).
Although I didn't have to, I removed the fuel rails this time along with removing each injector from the rails. Mine has 128,000 miles so I figured it's proly due for new o-rings on each end of the injectors ($1.70 each). Glad I did, they were pretty cruddy.
One tool I found to be really handy is a "push rod remover" by Lisle (part #48500). Got it for less than $20 including shipping on the net. Couldn't find it in stock anywhere locally but received it two days after ordering it. This tool lets you remove the pushrods without loosening/ removing the rocker arms. Saves time and the mess you make when having to adjust all the rockers with no valve covers and the engine running. It's supposed to work on 2.8, 3.1, and 3.4 engines and supposedly you can do the job without removing the rear valve cover if you have it.
On mine, the front (passenger side) motor mount had to be removed to remove the serp belt, to remove the PS pump and alternator. To raise/ hold the engine I used an engine support I bought the first time at NAPA for about $50. It sits on the inner fender "jam", spans the engine compartment and has a large J bolt that lifts/ supports the engine from an existing lifting lug. The neat thing about this setup is if you have the lug towards the firewall side of the engine, it will slightly rotate the engine forward, allowing better access to the rear plugs, which proly need changed now, and the coils and other stuff mounted over the rear valve cover.
I also took the intake and plenum to the local speed shop and had 'em checked for warpage. Luckily mine were good.
Since you're down to it, check to see that your serpentine idler pulley turns smoothly and doesn't have excessive play.
Just refilled my oil and coolant (water only). Gonna test drive tomorrow and drain/ change oil and coolant if everything goes well. Wish me luck.
Take your time and good luck...

lol why would you have to adjust rocker arms on 3.1 with out valve covers? This are hydraulic lifters and no valve lash adjustments are necessary, just torque them to the specs and that is it.

[xeroinfinity]

Originally Posted by 3100

lol why would you have to adjust rocker arms on 3.1 with out valve covers? This are hydraulic lifters and no valve lash adjustments are necessary, just torque them to the specs and that is it.

I think these all have been updated since 2003.
I know several other torq proceedures have been changed or updated in the last 2-3 years on GM's 60 deg V6's because of thier gasket issues.