Radiator differences in 95 Windstars

[dadaddio]

95 Windstar 3.8L GL (date 11/94): I recently replaced my radiator with one produced I believe a few months earlier, maybe 06/94. I noticed it has a port below the cap on the filler neck which points towards the right (looking from front of vehicle). The original rad only had the overflow port on the left.
1) What is the second port for?
2) Can I just put a hose on it and clamp it shut since my vehicle obviously has no connection for it?
Thanks,
David

[wiswind]

I would say that a line with a clamp would be fine.
I am guessing that they put it there for several different applications (right or left overflow port).
Leaving it open will result in leaks out.
Make sure that the port that the overflow bottle is connected to is open into the area above the place where the cap seal seats.
It is possible that not both of them go all the way through....and you are to punch out the side that you are going to use.
So....with the cap off....and the overflow bottle hose off.....use a small piece of wire, etc to see if it passes all the way through that port.

I would also include a new radiator cap ....if you have not already done so.

[dadaddio]

For those interested -

I believe I've solved the mystery. As it turns out, when my friend pulled the rad, he removed the "plugged" termination that was already on it. I found it in the nuts and bolts box. Apparently, it had been a replacement rad in the junker we were pulling it from.
David

[Gobowiec]

I'll place my question here:
Is it possible to replace the radiator without disconnecting the AC? Other words, if I take of the front of the car (bumper with cover) I'll be able to get it out?

[wiswind]

Reading the AlldataDIY instructions for my 1996, YES, you can remove and install the radiator without disconnecting the A/C lines from the condensor coils.

In addition to all the other stuff you need to do......
At this point.....everything is disconnected from the radiator unit, except the condensor coil unit.

They have you remove the "Top Condensor to Radiator Mounting Screws"
Then "Lift up on the condensor core while pushing down on the radiator to disengage clips on bottom"
Then "Lift radiator from vehicle".
You would be leaving the condensor coil unit in place......lifting the radiator out.

Of course, be very carefull to not damage the condensor while doing these things.
They don't have a diagram for that step....but if you are handy enough to get to that step....then you will be able to see what you need to do.....


All of this is in addition to all the other steps involved in removing the radiator.
As a side note, they say NOT to unscrew the transmission cooler line connectors from the radiator.......they want you to disconnect at the "quick connect" fittings......so you will need to pick up the correct size tool for this......at most auto part stores.

When I installed the auxillary transmission cooler on my '96, I clearly remember that the ABS unit was in the way of just lifting the radiator fan assembly out, with the radiator in place.....so use care in this area.......when putting the new radiator back into place.

[Gobowiec]

Thanks a lot. I'll try to explain them not to disassembly my car... BTW I read about Prestone Super Radiator Sealer. Is it worth giving a try on a 13 year old radiator? I'm afraid that it might "seal" more than I would like to....

[wiswind]

I have only used the Bar's brand.
The one that I would recommend is the "Original" Pelletized version.
It will not clog things up.......if used as directed.
The coolant circulates through the heater core ALL THE TIME that the motor is running, so there will be no stagnent coolant just sitting there over the summer, when one is not using the heat very much.

I would drain the coolant down.....add the Bar's......and fill it up.
If the pellets do not want to go in.....the transmission cooler is right under the fill cap......Loosten the cap on the Bar's Stop leak........put the bottle in boiling water for a while......to disolve the pelets........then pour it into the radiator....and fill with coolant.
Then run the motor to get is warm and circulating the coolant.

WATCH the temperature gauge.....and if it shoots way up....shut the motor off and wait.....letting it cool, then restart.
This is possible if you get some air bubbles into the motor........and this is the process to "burp" them out of the cooling system.

The Correct coolant to use is the "Traditional Green" or if you want a long life.......G-05.
If switching to G-05, it is best to flush the system.
The older windstars came from the factory with Green coolant.
Sometime around 2001, they started using G-05.

The "yellow Jug" by Prestone is NOT traditional green......it is not the same stuff at all.
While it should work, it is not what FORD calls for in their vehicles.

[dadaddio]

I just replaced the rad/condenser as a set. Just the rad will be trickier.

Some of this you may know already.
Remove the fan assembly, which as mentioned must be jimmied around to get it out. The condenser sits on two plastic hooks on the rad, that is why you must push it down first (and/or lift condenser). Looking at my old set, looks to be a good 3/4 inch to separate the rad and condenser. Then you will have to wrestle it out. Getting it back in you will need to attach the rubber air guide on the bottom of the rad and push it past the condenser as it flares in that direction a little. And again, you will have to push it below the condenser and back up to hook the plastic hangers back on.

The trannie lines can be a pain too. I undid the hex heads which is OK getting them out, but then trying to get the threads to line up reinstalling didn't work. I had to disconnect the lines, connect the hex heads and then reinstall the lines. This worked quite efficiently compared to messing with the hex heads for over an hour.

Having replaced the rad/condenser as a set, I really question doing just the rad. It will be challenging.

Good luck.
David